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Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes  /  Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


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Societe  litteraire  et  historique  du  Quebec 
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premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
derniire  imege  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  -^' signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie    FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc..  peuvent  etre 
film^s  i  des  tau*  de  reduction  diff^rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  etre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich*.  il  est  film*  A  partir 
de  Tangle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nicessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m^thode. 


1 

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3 

1 

2 

3 

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5 

6 

MICROCOPY    RESOLUTION    TEST    CHART 

(ANSI  and  ISO  TEST  CHART  No    2 


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1.25 


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1.4 


I  2.5 
2.2 

II  2.0 
1.8 

1.6 


^     APPLIED  I^A^GE 


1653  East   Main  Street 

f^o.-liester,   New  York        i4609       USA 

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■      288  -  5989 


pl.'^^fisSppr'''^''':-^ 


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I'AGOUA    AND    ENTUAXCE   '10    LAliOK   TEMl'l.E,    MKKO. 


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I  i 


RAMBLES  IN  JAPAN 


THE  LAND  OF  Till'  RISING  SUN 


BT 


11.    B.    TRISTRAM,    D.D..    LL.D.,    F.R.S. 

CAMON   OF  DURHAM 


WITH  FORTY- FIVE  ILLUSTRATIONS  BY  EDWARD  WHYMFER 

FROM  SKETCHES  AND  PHOTOGRAPHS 

AN  INDEX  AND  A  MAP 


FLEMING  h.  REVELL  COMPANY 
New  York       Chicago       Toronto 

Ihe  Reagiout  Tract  Society,  London. 


MMtetfii^iiw*: 


PREFACE 


An  npolofry  may  rofis()iiiil)ly  be  cxpecterl  for  another 
book  on  Japan  by  one  who  lias  })ccn  a  mere  visitor, 
not  a  resident.  The  following  pages  arc  for  the  most 
part  a  transeript  of  the  author's  daily  journal,  written 
without  any  view  to  puhlicalion.  But  when,  shortly 
after  his  visit,  the  eyes  of  the  whole  W(H-ld  were 
suddenly  fixed  upon  the  Land  of  the  Rising  8un,  and 
its  unexpected  display  of  military  genius  and  power, 
it  was  suggested  to  him  tluit  his  notes  might  be  of 
interest,  not  only  as  describing  some  parts  of  the 
country  seldom  visited  by  foreigners,  but  as  touching 
topics  not  generally  dealt  with  by  previous  writers. 

The  primary  object  of  the  author's  rambles  was  to 
master  thoroughly  the  position  of  missionary  work 
in  Japan,  especially  that  of  the  Church  Missionary 
Society,  and  to  ascertain  the  practical  workinfj*  of 
Buddhism  as  compared  with  the  Buddhism  of  China 
and  Ceylon.  He  had  special  advantages  in  beino- 
accompanied  by  his  daughter,  who,  from  her  residence 
of  some  years  in  the  country,  her  knowledge  of  the 
language   and  customs,  and  intense  sympathy  with 


PREFACE 


the  people,  enal)]e(l  him  to  ^ain  an  insight  into  many 
things  which  woiihl  otherwise  escape  the  stranger's 
notice,  lie  trusts  also  th;"t  his  readers  will  forgive 
him,  as  a  licld  naturalist,  for  many  allusions  to 
zoology  and  botany.  lie  will  be  well  rewarded,  if  he 
shall,  however  slightly,  contribute  to  deepen  interest 
in  a  race  peerless  among  Orientals,  and  destined,  when 
it  has  embraced  thr.t  Christianity  which  is  the  only 
root  of  all  true  ciyilisation,  to  be  the  Britain  of  the 
Pacifia 


CONTENTS 


Ciup.       I.  First  Impress roxs 13 

„             II.     YOKOIIAIIA   AND   TOKIO        ....  30 

„        III.  A  Visit  to  Nikko  .....  81 

IV.   The  IIakone  Lake         ....  124 
V.  Nacoya  .         .         .         .         .        ,        .104 

VI.  A  Second  Visit        Kioto       .        .        ,  11)5 

VII.  Osaka 2-2b 

Vin.  Sfiikoku 247 

IX.  Tim  Isr.AND  of  Kiushiu.         .         .         .  26(5 

X.  Aso  San  and  the  Geysers  of  Yunotan  .  286 


n 


»» 


>» 


LioT  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


u^ 


s 


Pagoda  and  Entrance  to  LAUf;E  Tkmple,  Nikko 
AwAzr  Shima,  on  the  Inland  Sea 

Nagasaki 

TsuDzuRA  IwA  Rock,  Haruna  . 

Arima 

Vegetable  Pedlar.  . 

Asakusa  Temple,  Tokio  (Buddiiisi') 

ZojoJi-zozo  Temple  . 

Japanese  Soldier  of  the  old  time 

Japanese  Bronze  Lantern 

Ancient  Japanese  Archer 

Japanese  Buttons     . 

Shiba  Temple,  at  Tokio    . 

Forest  Trees  near  Nikko        . 

Bridges  near  Nikko 

Japanese  Falconer  . 

Stone  Buddhas  near  Nikko 

Lake  of  Chusenji    .        .        . 

Buddhist  Priest       .         .        • 

FUJILAMA,    FROM    OmIYA         .  • 

Wayside  Tea-house  . 
Japanese  Travelling  Chair 


rAOB 

Frontispiece 

12 

17 

28 

81 

87 

48 

61 

56 

57 

59 

61 

67 

80 

85 

95 

104 

113 

117 

125 

131 

140 


10 


LIST    OF   ILLUSTRATIONS 


The  Hakone  Lake,  five  thousand  feet  auove 

LEVEL  .... 

Ojigoku,  or  Gukat  Boiling  ISi-uino 

PiLoiiiM  GOING  UP  Fujiyama 

Nagoya  Castle 

Temple  at  Nagoya,  containing  five  hundred 

Kisooawa  River 

Colossal  Image  of  Buddha 

Temple  at  Kioto 

A  Japanese  Lady     . 

38,333  Images,  Japan 

Japanese  Shrine  Sellers 

Weaving  Silk  .... 

Planting  out  Rice  . 

Japanese  Girls,  Writing,  Sewung,  and  Rkadin 

A  Flower-stand  in  the  Street,  Osaka     . 

Lady  Missionaries'  House 

Theatrk  at  Tokushijia     . 

Missionary's  House  at  Tokusiuma 

Mission  Room,  Tokushima 

Country  Bridge 

.Iapankse  Junk 

Kumamoto  Castle     . 

Country  People  car'ying  Firewood 


IMAGE; 


SEA- 


145 
150 

158 

ir,7 

173 
lfS5 
191 
191) 
20-' 
205 
209 
215 
224 
231 
244 
249 
251 
254 
2f5 
259 
2G4 
282 
293 


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EAMBLES    IN    JAPAN 


CITAPTER  I 


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FIRST   IMPRESSIONS 

Impressions  are  always  heightened  by  contrast,  and 
the  first  impressions  of  Japan,  striking  and  enchanting 
as  they  must  be  in  any  case,  were  to  me  intensified 
by  the  startling  contrast  to  the  lands  I  had  just  left. 
As  Ave  stepped  ashore  in  the  lovely  laud-lockcd 
harbour  of  Nagasaki,  and  set  foot  on  the  little  islet  of 
Dcshima,  for  two  centuries  and  a  half  the  only  spot 
of  Japanese  ground  which  a  European  might  tread, 
and  those  Europeans  only  lialf  a  dozen  Dutchmen  ; 
and  when  one  looked  around  on  the  harbour  filled 
with  shipping  of  every  great  nation  in  the  world,  and 
then  on  the  sloping  sides  of  the  encircling  rocky  hills, 
dotted  with  fairy-like  vilhis,  peeping  out  amongst  a 
labyrinth  of  semi-tropical  trees,  which  overshadowed 
clumps  of  brilliant  flowering  shrubs,  it  was  difficult 
to  realise  that  only  thirty-six  hours  before  we  had 
left  the  monotonous  mud -banks  and  the  turbid  waters 
of  the  Yang-tsze-kiang.  It  was  a  veritable  transfor- 
mation scene. 

The  land  of  China,  like  its  people,  strikes  one  as 
essentially  unromantic,  everything  on  a  large  scale, 


14 


RAMBLES   IN   JAPAN 


I  lull    and    prosaic,    matcliitig    the    iiiliahitants,    with 
many  good  qualities,  solid,  stolid,  plodding,  unimagi- 
native— in    short,    a    matter-of-fact,    business    land, 
nothing  if  not  practical,  l)ut  to  a  stranger's  eye  not 
niucli  l)ey()nd.     At  on(;e,  after  spending  a  day  in  the 
fogs  of  tlie  Yellow  Sea,  we  seemed  to  have  stepped 
into  fairyland  ;  nothing  grand,  nothing  magnificent, 
but  everything  in  perfect  harmony,  a  land  of  minute 
prettinesses.    Well  might  my  artist  friend,  who  landed 
with  me  soon  after  sunrise,  exclaim  as  we  returned 
from  our  ramble  through  the  streets  :  '  I  should  have 
come  for  six  months  instead  of  one,  and  brought  a 
dozen  sketch-books    instead    of    two.       Every    step 
provides  a  new  picture,  every  child  in  the  street  has 
an  artist's  eye.    The  little  girls  arrange  their  bouquets 
and  sachets  as  though  they  were  students  of  Ruskin  ; 
even  the  butchers'  shops  are  decorated  with  vases  and 
Howers,  as  though  they  were  Regent  Street  reposi- 
tories.     Every    woman    looks   bewitching,    and   the 
harmony  of  colours  in  a  bright  dress  is  a  perfect 
study.     Only  one  thing  spoils  the  charm,  the  horrid 
intrusion  of  European  slop  tailors.     While  the  porters 
and  coolies  attract  one  by  their  picturesque  dress, 
fashion    seems    to  demand    from  everyone  who  can 
afford  it,  that  he  should  assume  European  hard  hat, 
misfitting  coat  and  trousers,  and  cotton  gloves  with 
elongated  fingers.     If  the  women  are  charming,  the 
men  look  thorough  little  snobs.'      I  must  endorse  my 
friend's  criticism,  even  though  there  be  plain  women 
in  Japan  as  elsewhere. 

Seaport     towns,     though     generally     the     first 


FIRST   mrRESSIONS 


If) 


f^'^jcimens  that  the  traveller  sees  of  a  new  country,  are 
iiot  necessarily  the  truest  or  most  attractive  represen- 
tatives of  their  country.  No  exception  can  be  taken 
to  Nagasaki  as  an  illustration  of  Southern  Japan. 
For  the  capacity  of  its  roadstead,  it  may  well  rank 
amonff  the  great  harbours  of  the  world.  The  entrance 
is  somewhat  intricate,  but  when  once  entered  under 
the  anchorage,  we  seemed  to  be  in  a  land-locked  lake 
surrounded  by  villas.  Looking  across  the  harbour, 
I  was  at  once  reminded  of  the  Bay  of  Naples  ;  I  could 
have  imagined  myself  gazing  at  Sorrento  on  a  summer 
morning.  But  our  minuter  inspection  soon  revealed 
a  dilFerence  :  the  general  outlines  might  be  similar, 
but  there  was  a  finish,  an  exquisite  variety,  an  absence 
of  whitewash  and  long  stone  walls,  an  adjusting  and 
harmonising  of  every  detail  with  its  surroundings, 
which  presented  as  fine  an  illustration  of  art  conceal- 
ing art  as  can  be  seen  anywhere  in  the  world.  Every 
tree  seemed  placed  as  if  it  were  a  necessity  where  it 
grew,  and  where  its  absence  must  cause  a  disfiguring 
gap  ;  the  very  shape  of  even  the  largest  trees  was 
guided  by  ait  which  Japanese  understand  so  well,  for 
trees,  like  children,  are  there  trained  from  their 
youth  up  :  whilst  the  houses  seem  to  suggest  that 
they  are  a  natural  upgrowth  from  the  rocks  on 
which  they  stand. 

Various  little  islets  dot  the  inlet.  I  have  men- 
tioned the  most  historically  celebrated,  Deshima,  the 
prison  factory  of  the  Dutch,  where,  since  the  expulsion 
of  the  Jesuits  in  the  beginning  of  the  seventeenth 
century,   two   Dutch  ships  a   year  were  allowed  to 


1 


16 


IIAMBLE8   IN   JAPAN 


the  Southern  Island  of  Kiu.shiu,  .       ^.r''^  ^"'- 

increased  in  iriir)o.-tnn.>n  ^''  "<^^^'ever, 

local  tmde ,,  rt.:;3  "7 """ ''""■""■ "- 

i      1  "^  i^-iriKd  on  at  other  r)or^«       Tf  l 

not  a  ]aroe  Ei,,fmoo,.  i  ..  '^^  pous.     It  Las 

of  the  c'hui  ;   .^;;^;t .'"; '"' '' "  "-^  -■«- 

'"«V  of  its   our,.      There   is         °        '"'"'""""7 
Knglish  church  „„tside  the  citv  ''  '^""^'■™""^ 

"•''•;".  as  „.e,U3e.te:-::  2.:""""'™  '^"-"^'^ 

bears   very  hi.^^I 'rT^  ""',"'  ""^  '^'»'J.  "'Wch 
-Mchare'ohi  fl!  20,"""'  t'"'    '^^   1™^---  in 

'•>  f«ct,  i.  „ori  iL  ha?;::^  r'"^"  '"^''-''-- 

.  '       ^.  ''''"g  ^^'^  Japan  advanced  more  r-mi^i, 
ti.-  .  „,ed,ca,  education,  in  .hieh  she  i^^^t 


were 


m 


I 


i 


i 


FIRST    IMPRESSIONS 


19 


Hihance  oi  some  Eurojxuii  coiinirips.  About  thirty 
of  tlio  atiulonts  nt  the  time  of  jiiy  visit  wore.  Cliristiuns 
connected  with  the  tin  li  Missionary  St  ler  Tiiey 
hfid  a  devotional  meeting  onee  a  \vo(  k  in  a  native 
eliurch  for  students  aluiir,  and  had  also  one  night 
lor  open  discussion  on  Buddhism  and  Christianity,  at 
which  I  happened  to  he  present,  and  which  was  largely 
uttended.  The  discussion  \vn  •  earnest  and  aninmted, 
though  of  course  1  could  not  understand  a  word. 

It  must  he  rcmemhered  that  the  ishmd  of  Kiushiu 
presents  many  points  of  contrast  to  the  other  islands, 
both  in  climate,  products,  and  character  of  the  inhabi- 
tants. \Vc  are  rather  apt  to  forget  the  great  variety 
there  is  hi  Japan  on  these  points.  Witli  an  area  one- 
tenth  larger  than  the  British  Isles,  and  the  population 
larger  in  exactly  the  same  proportion — forty-four 
millions  to  forty — the  four  main  islands  of  J;  pan 
stretch  slantways  through  sixteen  degrees  of  lalii  ide 
and  twenty  degrees  of  longitu(h3.  But,  owing  to  its 
formation  and  number  of  islands,  it  possesses  a  coa.^  t- 
line  more  than  double  the  extent  of  that  of  the 
I'ritish  Isles.  Like  them,  it  enjoys  the  advantages 
of  the  warm  equatorial  current  representing  in  tlu' 
Pacific  our  own  Gulf  Stream. 

In  the  variety  of  its  natural  products  it  vastly 
surpasses  our  own  island  group.  In  Yezo,  the 
Xorthcrn  Island,  the  hill-tops  are  the  resort  of  the 
ptarmigan,  identical  with  the  bird  of  the  Scottish 
Highlands;  and  the  pine  forests  below  are  the  home 
of  the  hazel  hen,  so  fomiliar  in  the  Swedish  dahls. 
The  great  Central  Island  of  Nippon  (a  name  strangely 

c  2 


20 


RAMBLES   IN   JAPAN 


corrupted  into  Japan  by  some  of  the  earlier  n&.vi- 
gators)  presents  us  with  the  varied  produce  of 
Northern  and  Central  Europe,  until  in  Kiushiu  we 
have  all  the  semi-tropical  luxuriance  of  Andalusia 
and  Southern  Italy,  and  of  even  still  more  tropical 
climes.  The  traveller  amongst  the  Ainu  of  the  north 
may  gather  his  bouquets  of  the  lily  of  the  valley  and 
various  Alpine  acquaintances  ;  whilst  the  wanderer 
amongst  the  villages  of  Satsuma  in  the  south  rests  in 
the  orange  groves  under  the  shade  of  the  palm,  lulled 
by  the  swish  of  the  never-resting  banana-leaves/ 
But  as  the  British  home  possessions  extend  to  the 
Shetlands  northwards,  and  to  the  Channel  Islands  in 
the  south,  so  the  empire  of  Japan  in  the  Kurile 
Islands  possesses  a  continuation  of  insular  territory 
to  almost  Arctic  limits ;  w'hile  in  the  south  the 
archipelago  of  the  Loochoos,  connected  as  they  are 
with  Kiushiu  by  an  unbroken  chain  of  islets,  and 
licyond  these  again  the  Majico  Sima  group,  close  to 
Formosa,  bring  the  island  empire  to  the  edge  of  the 
tropics,  while  the  acquisition  of  the  latter  has 
brought  it  well  within  them. 

The  Japanese  writers  therefore  may  fairly  claim 
that  their  empire  stretches  across  the  Temperate 
zone.  Young  Japan  delights  to  talk  of  '  the  Britain 
of  the  Pacific,'  and  considering  the  very  good  opinion 
these  charming  people  had  of  themselves,  even  before 
the  war  of  181)4,  we  ought  to  take  this  as  a  great 
compliment.  And  no  doubt,  with  their  vast  seaboard, 
countless    harbours,   and   inexhaustible  sea  fisheries, 

'  The  banana  lives,  but  does  not  bear  fruit  in  Kiushiu. 


f-in/fmmei»!!W!mr: 


FIRST   IMPRESSIONS 


21 


they  are  a  nation  of  born  sailors,  unapproached  by 
any  other  Eastern  nation.  A  Chinaman  behaves  well 
on  the  water  so  long  as  he  has  not  to  light ;  a  Japa- 
nese fisherman — and  that  is  half  the  nation—is  at 
liome  there.  The  fishing  industry  is  perhaps  quite 
as  important  to  Japan  as  the  raising  of  cereals ;  for, 
until  recently,  fish  was  the  (mly  animal  food  ever 
tasted  by  the  people,  and  still  is  exclusively  so  except 
in  European  settlements.  But  I  shall  have  much  to 
say  on  this  subject  hereafter. 

Long  before  the  war  with  China,  popular  writers 
in  Japan  had  set  their  heart  uf)on  the  acquisition  of 
Formosa,  which  can  be  easily  understood  on  studying 
the  map,  and  bearing  in  mind  their  maritime  aspira- 
tions. In  a  book  in  my  possession,  written  and 
printed  in  tlie  English  language  at  Tokio,  the  writer 
urges  the  importance  of  England  securing  Formosa  at 
the  earliest  opportunity,  as  being  the  only  security 
against  the  designs  of  Russia,  who,  the  writer  assumed, 
was  prepared  to  absorb  that  island  as  well  as  Corea 
unless  forestalled  by  England. 

But  it  is  not  only  in  fisheries,  it  is  also  in  mineral 
wealth,  that  Japan  holds  a  position  of  pre-eminence 
which  may  be  compared  to  that  of  Spain  in  Europe. 
The  coal-fields,  both  in  the  south  and  north,  are 
inexhaustible,  and  have  scarcely  been  tapped.  Even 
though  very  slightly  developed,  the  yield  of  her 
copper-mines,  after  being  worked  for  ages,  far  exceeds 
the  demand,  and  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  the 
mineral  deposits  are  equally  rich  in  every  department. 
Silver,  it  is  said,  used  to  be  comparatively  the  scarcest 


22 


RAMBLES   IN   JAPAN 


of  the  metals,  while  gold  was  abuudaut,  and  stories 
are  rife  of  the  enormous  fortunes  made  by  American 
speculators  at  the  first  opening  of  Japan,  between 
1854  and  18G8,  who  bought  gold  in  the  interior  for 
twice  its  weight  in  silver.  It  would  require,  however, 
a  very  cute  speculator  to-day  to  make  a  profit  out  of 
a  Japanese  bullion  dealer. 

But  enough  of  this  preliminary  digression.  The 
detention  of  the  steamer  for  coaling  gave  me  the 
(opportunity,  which  I  did  not  miss,  of  visiting  the 
outskirts  of  Nagasaki,  as  well  as  examining  the  beauti- 
ful manufacture  of  tortoiseshell  articles,  one  of  the 
staples  of  the  place,  and  which  in  delicacy  and 
minuteness  of  workmanship  for  surpasses  the  skill  of 
Naples. 

The  coaling  was  carried  on  in  very  primitive 
fashion.  The  indigenous  product  (for  the  coal-mines 
are  on  an  island  at  the  other  end  of  the  bay,  where 
they  are  worked  by  drifts  run  into  the  sides  of  the 
clitF)  is  passed  from  the  barges  in  small  l)askets,  head 
over  head,  by  long  lines  of  women  and  lads,  chiefiy 
the  former,  up  the  sides  of  the  ship,  and  into  the 
bunkers,  while  the  empty  mat  baskets  are  passed 
back  wdth  equal  rapidity  by  a  parallel  line  of 
workers. 

I  was  told  that  bunker  coal  at  that  time  could  be 
put  on  board  for  little  more  than  a  dollar  a  ton. 
Now,  I  believe,  the  price  is  very  much  higher,  owing 
to  the  increased  demand  caused  by  the  repeated 
strikes  in  England,  and  which  have  already  led, 
throughout   the  whole  of  the    Pacific   ports,  to   the 


FIRST   IMPRESSIONS 


23 


and  stories 
l)y  American 
an,  between 

interior  fur 
ire,  however, 
profit  out  of 

cssion.     Tlie 

^ave  me  tlie 

visiting  the 

g  the  beauti- 

one  of  the 
Iclicacy   and 

the  skill  of 

ly  primitive 
c  coal-mines 
i  bay,  where 

sides  of  the 
baskets,  head 

lads,  chiefly 

md  into  the 

are    passed 

llel    line   of 

ime  could  be 
ilollar  a  ton. 
inher,  owinsj 
:he  repeated 
already  led, 
lorts,  to   the 


supplanting  of  Welsh  and  North  of  England  coal  by 
the  cheaper  and  e(jually  useful  products  of  Japan, 
Vancouver  Island,  and  even  India.  I  have  learned 
that  since  my  vi.sit  the  Japanese  coal-mining  (as 
might  have  been  expected)  lias  rapidly  developed, 
and  likewise  the  quality  of  the  coal.  Certainly,  what 
\vc  took  in  was  very  friable  and  dusty,  but  it  was  the 
product  of  an  upper  seam  very  near  tlie  surface, 
worked  only  by  drifts  in  the  .side,  while  last  year 
the  lower  seams,  struck  by  sinking  shafts,  have 
yielded  a  superior  quality. 

I  could  not  but  notice  the  instinctive  cleanliness 
even  of  the  women  who  were  working  at  coaling  the 
ship.  They  had  worn  a  sort  of  blue  cotton  poncho 
overall  and  a  blue  towel  twisted  on  their  heads,  to 
protect  their  elaborately  dressed  hair  from  the  dust. 
When  they  rested  from  work  they  at  once  threw  off 
this  outer  cloak,  carefully  shook  it,  folded  it  into  a 
small  roll,  and  then,  dusting  their  hair  and  washing 
their  hands  and  face  from  the  boat  side,  they  shook 
themselves  out  and  were  as  dapper  and  spruce  as  their 
neighbours. 

As  we  walked  on  shore  we  were  at  once  striu^k  by 
the  inimen.se  variety  of  flowering  .shrubs,  all,  at  this 
season,  one  bla^e  of  bloom,  much  less  familiar  to 
l^^nglish  eyes  than  those  of  the  more  northern  parts, 
many  of  which  are  acclimatised  at  home  ;  but  few  of 
those  about  Nagasaki  can  with  us  be  more  than 
greenhouse  exotics. 

The  politeness  even  of  boatmen  and  jinrik.sha  men 
is  overpowering,  and  the  little  wooden  chrdets  which 


24 


RAMBLES    IN   JAPAN 


line  the  I'ojuls,  bchiiul  tlicir  dainty  little  lluwer-plots, 
ure  indeed  eleiui  iuid  briuht. 

As  J  afterwards  tmvelled  at  leisure  tliroiinh  a  threat 
I'iirt   of   Kiiishiu,  I  will   say  no  more  of  this  Devon- 
shire  or    Kent  of  -Japan.      Our   voyage   next  was  to 
Kol)o,  at  the  iiorthern  end  of  the  famous  Inland  Sea. 
Steamers    to    that    port    from    C'hina    or  tlie   Straits 
usually  make  it  to  the  east  of  Bhikoku,  and  so  avoid 
the   circuitous   and   lengthy  threading  of  the  Inland 
Sea,  which,  however,  is,  1  believe,  for  beauty  and  love- 
liness abs(.lutely  witliout  a  rival  in  the  world.      I  do 
not  say  this   hastily,  for  I   had   the  good  Ini'tune  to 
make  the  voyage  tlii'ee   times — twice  from  sdulh  to 
north,  and  onee  the  return  voyage;  and  these  were 
so   timed  that  (m  one  or  otlier  occasion  I  jiave  tra- 
versed every  mile  of  tliat  fairy  sea  in   full  siudight. 
Let  the  traveller  recall  the  tinest  bits  of  coast  scenery 
he    can   recollect  —  the    Ray    of   Naples    in    spi-inn-, 
Wemyss  Bay  on  a  summer's  morning,  a  trip  I'ound 
the  Isle  of  Wight,  threading  the  islands  of  Denmaik's 
Sounds,  the  luxuriance  of  the   Sumatran  coast,   the 
windings  of  the  coral  islets  of  Bei'muda— recall  which- 
ever of  them  you  please,  wait  l)ut  an  hour  or  two— 
and  you  will  match  it  in  the  Inland  Sea. 

Before  entering  the  sea  itself,  we  were  winding  for 
ten  hours  b(;tween  the  Archipelago  of  Goto  and  the 
mainland  northward,  and  then,  turning  eastwards, 
crossed  the  Gulf  of  (ienkai  and  steamed  through 
the  jiarrow  entrance  into  the  Inland  Sea,  the 
straits  of  Shinianoseki,  i.e.  Toint  of  the  Islands, 
between    the    northern    poir*.  of    Kiitshiu    and    the 


FIRST   IMPRESSIONS 


25 


the 

mds, 

tlic 


•?, 


farthest  extremity  of  the  main  island  Hondo,  on 
which  arc  the  Hourisliino-  fishing  and  trading  towns  of 
I)akan  on  the  north  ;iiid  Moji  on  the  south,  the  latter 
being  pre2)ared  for  a  powerful  battery  of  Armstrong 
guns. 

The  entrance   to  tlie    sea   is   a    nari'ow   passage, 
i'.pparently  not  more  tlian  two  miles  wide.     It  was  a 
loN'cly   morning   as    we    entered.       The   whole  scene 
haffles  description  :  islands,  bays,  terrace-ribbed  hills, 
woods     of    stately    cryptomerias,    w<joden     villages 
nestling  in  every  recess— the  distant  ones,  to  use  a 
very  unpoetic  simile,  looking   like  clumps  of  mush- 
rooms under  tlie  green   ridges.     The  sea,  resplendent 
as  a  mirror,  was  without  a  ripple,  fleets  of  fishing 
juidis  were  dotted  about  everywhere,  sea  birds,  many 
species  new  to  me  in   life,  clur.isily  splashing  out  of 
our  way,  and  diving  about  fearlessly  on  all  sides.     In 
these  latter  we  were  fortunate,  for  I  saw  comparatively 
few    birds    on   sulisequent   visits.       But    the  winter 
emigrants  had  not  yet  started  for  their  sunmier  homes. 
There  were  mergansers  in  great  numbers,  grebes  of 
various  species,  and  countless  myriads  of  the  P-.ciiic 
species  of  puffins,  shearwaters,  guillemots  and  crested 
auks.       There    were    also   abundance   of    sea-ducks, 
scoters,  scaups.     It  was  simply  a  fairy  scene   which 
passes  description.      But  alas  1    just   at  one  of   the 
finest  points  a  dense  fog  abruptly  met  us,  followed 
by    a    downpour  of  rain.     The    only   thing  was    tc 
anchor  at  once,  till  the  fog  should  lift. 

The  scenery  was  e(|ually  enchanting  during  the 
whole  of  the   rest  of  the  voyage,   but  even   beauty 


20 


RAMBLES    IN   JAPAN 


unvaried  bec^omes  monotonous,  and  we  did  not  inurmur 
at  sunset  robbing  us  of  our  scenery,  iioj'  rebel  at  the 
tiiought  of  retiring  to  our  berths.      Soon  after  (hiwn 
we  could  make  our  destination,  the  liarbour  of  Kobe  ; 
very  diHerent  from  Nagasaki,  comijarativelv  more  of 
an  open  roadstead,  and  a  hmg  straggling  city,    the 
most  part  of  low  wooden  houses,  with  a  few  hamlsome 
terraces  of  stone  houses,  built  European  fashion,  in 
front.     Behind  it  on  the  south-east  rises  a  range  of 
hills  about    1,000  feet  high,  on  the  lower  slopes  of 
which  part  of  the  town  is  builr.     A  further  ranire  risintT 
t(j  2,000  feet  is  the  favourite  summer  resort  of  the 
inhabitants,   known  as    Arima.      To    the    northwaid 
extends  a  low,  fiat,  uninteresting  country  of  monoto- 
nous paddy-fields.      We  had  to  anchor  far  out,   but 
European   and    Chinese   harbour   extortions    do     not 
appear  to  have  readied  Japan.     We  soon  secured  a 
little  .sampan,  which    tossed  about  very  much  like  an 
empty  tub,  but  landed  us  at  the  custcmi  house  for  the 
moderate  fare  of   I'J./.    each.     The    customs   exami- 
nation was  not  rigorous,  the  officers  being  politeness 
itself,  and  though   sorely   puzzled   l)y  a   tiger's  skull 
and      an  1  eater's     scaly    covering,     and    amused    by 
specimens  of  Chinamen's  clothes,  yet  passed  every- 
thing.,  even  the   j)rohibited   Chinese  embroidery,   on 
my  assuiing  them   it  was  not  for  purposes  of  trade, 
but  for  presents  to  friends,  and  that  I  should  buy  fa>' 
more  in   Jai)an.      Then   an   ofKcer    observed    to    my 
daughter,  who  had  come  down  from  Osaka  to  join  me 
here,  '  Your  father's  friends  will  see  how  much  better 
things  there  are  in  Japan  than  in  China.' 


niii-mur 
at  tlu' 

1'    (I.'IWU 

K()l)('  ; 
[iiore  of 
ty,  tlic 
lidsDiiic 
ion,  ill 
iiiigc  of 
ipes  of 
e  risinu; 

of  tlic 
til  ward 

lOllOto- 

it,  but 
■0  not 
ured  a 
ike  an 
for  the 
exami- 
iteness 
5  skull 
:!d  l)y 
every - 
ly,  on 
trade, 
uy  fav 
;o  my 
)in  mo 
better 


<  "tit  '■•?'?-'  ,i7^^.«- «^-^! 


J''>>TV,       ^.,,'1 


f:5^-:>^>'^' 


TSUPZriiA    IWA    ltO(T<.    IIAIillNA. 


B'[I!ST    IMIMtHSSlONS 


'2') 


f 


Thosk.'trlics  which  iiccompiiny  tliis  chapter,  tukon, 
as  they  arc,  tV-.iu  photographs,  will  exitlain  much 
l.cltcr  than  any  description  the  varied  charncter  oi 
lh<'  scciiciy  ..r  the  Inland  Sea.  We  may  note  the  re- 
iiiarkalilc  in.i^cnuity  with  which  jiiues  of  various  kinds 
have  l.ccn  coaxed  to  ,uro\v  on  the  top  of  every  little 
isolated  rock  and  out  of  the  sides  of  every  clill".  The 
pine.s  hein.ij;  rooted  in  the  (tracks  or  crevices  of  the 
clills,  are  cleverly  trained  laterally  to  the  desired 
length,  and  in  the  distan(;e  may  be  seen  the  solitary 
pine  which,  like  a  mommient,  crowns  an  isolated 
rock;  while  the  iishing  village  nestled  under  the 
trees,  with  the  boats  drawn  up  in  perfect  security  in 
the  little  cove  which  no  storms  can  disturb,  is  a  type 
of  a  thousand  others  which  dot  the  shores  of  Japan. 
In  some  places  somewhat  lofty  mountains  a[)proach 
the  coast,  especially  on  the  east  or  Shikoku  side  ;  for 
a  few  hours  after  leaving  the  straits  we  pass  the 
north-eastern  point  of  Kiushiu,  and  are  Hanked  on 
the  eastw^ard  by  the  adjoining  island  of  Hhik(jku,  the 
fourth  in  importance  of  the  Japanese  group.  Th(^ 
rocks  of  these  mountams,  chietly  igneous,  (.ften 
present  very  grotesque  forms.  It  is  diflicult  to 
imao-ine  a  more  exact  representation  of  a  human  bust 
than  a  rock  in  the  forest  of  liarum-  *s  shown  in  the 
illustration. 


.^o 


llAMliLRS   IN   JAPAN 


CITAPTf]!!  TI 


YOKOlfAMA    AND    ToKTO 


Our  Htc.'imcr  was  to  remain  a  day  at  Kobe,  so  we 
took  the  oppoit unity  of  spending  the  time  at  Osaka, 
the  JManehestcr  of  Japan,  only  tw'cnty  miles  from 
Kobe  (aeeessible  by  frequent  tn.ins  on  a  very 
l^]uropean-looking  railway). 

For  some  little  distance  we  ran  along  the  foot  of 
the  hills,  amongst  which  nestles  out  of  sight  Arin^r., 
the  favourite  summer  resort,  with  its  mineral  springn 
and  watertalls.  We  soon,  however,  left  the  hills 
and  crossed  a  monotonous  plain  intersected  by  a 
rectangulai-  network  of  dykes  and  ditclies,  reminding 
one  very  much  of  the  country  between  Haarlem  and 
Amsterdam,  and  with  cultivation  yielding  nothing 
in  neatness  and  cleanliness  to  the  Dutch. 

Most  of  the  compartments  were  paddy — that  is, 
rice — fields,  in  a  few  of  which  the  o-reen  })lades 
were  appearing  above  the  black  mud.  But  a  very 
large  nund)er  of  the  fields  were  cropped  wdth  rape 
just  now  in  full  bloom,  one  mass  of  golden  yellow, 
and  patches  of  cotton  just  budding,  giving  the 
whole  plain  the  appearance  of  a  chequered  carpet 
spangled  with  yellow  and  green. 

An  hour  brought  us  to  Osaka,  of  which  more  anon. 


i 


IS, 


YOKOHAMA    AND   TOKIO 


nn 


!'„it  t<,  111.'  Mtmn^cH'  who  ]vu\  jiint  landed,  the  wnys 
of  the  folk,  tlioir  ••loan  houses,  lavish  ii><  (.!'  tlovvers, 
chubby  <'l<"tH  rhildn'ti,  with  oilh«'r  dolls  or  babies 
strapiM-d  iM  iheir  back  .  tty,  brijj;ht  vvoiiieu  and 
irirls,  |>ietures<|UO  balcoiiii'd  houses,  oanals  full  of 
boats  erossiiinr  the  stroots  ('outiiuiall)— all  was  novel 
and  ohamiinfT.  P.iit  as  I  shall  have  occasion  to  write 
more  of  Usalca,  and  describe  the  missionary  work, 
of  which  it  is  the  centre,  later  on,  1  shall  aay  no 
more  at  present. 

We  returned  to  Kobe,  and  re-enil)arkcd  on  board 
the  nianniticent  Canadian- Pacilic  steamer  l':mi)ress  of 
In^ia,  (Japtain  Marshall,  K.N.R.,  and  woi,i,died  anchor 
about  midni,<rht.  Consecjuently  we  missed  the  coast 
scenery,  and  the  next  day,  as  it  was  blowing  a  gale 
of  wind,  we  stood  out  to  sea,  and  only  had  distant 
views  of  the  mountain  ranjjjes.  I'he  following 
morninu;  we  lande<l  at  Yokohama. 

This,  tlie  place  where  many  travellers  first  touch 
.hipau,   the  tirst  treaty  port,  and  the  port  of  Tokio, 
the  capital,  owes  its  importance  entirely  to  forei.yu 
trade.     It  was  merely  a  fishing  village  in  18.54,  but 
now  a  magnificent  esplanade  of  s[)lendid  houses  in 
the  European  style  faces  the  sea,  not  at  all  .Japanese 
in    their    character.       On    both   sides    a    straggling 
native  town  of  mean  wooden  shanties  extends  along 
the  shore  ;  whilst  behind,  a  bold  eminence,  known 
as  the  Blurt",  within  the  limits  of  the  foreign   con- 
cession,  is  covered  with    handsome    villas,    gardens, 
and  winding  drives.     For  the  stranger  who  wishes 
to  see  the    Japan   of   the   Japanese,   Yokohama  can 


;i4 


RAMBLES    IN    JAPAN 


luive  but  few  attractions  ;  tlio  miscollanoous  crowd 
drawn  to  a  tii'cat  seaport  bciiiL!'  liv  no  means  im- 
proved  ])y  contact  with  foreigners,  but  too  often 
imitating  the  vi(H\s  tliey  sec,  and  losing  their  native 
sinijilieitv.  At  the  same  time  tlie  emj)()riums  on  and 
near  the  esplanade  contain  by  far  the  finest  assort- 
ment of  Japanese  wai'cs  and  curios,  at  the  best 
prices,  to  be  found  in  the  empire. 

Amidst  much  in  the  port  that  is  distressing  to 
a  Christian  Knglishman  to  hear  of  and  witness,  I 
must  not  omit  to  mention  a  specially  bright  spot,  the 
Sailors'  IT(mie,  cond)ined  with  the  missions  to  seamen 
atioat,  under  the  direction  of  the  admirable  chaplain, 
the  Rev.  W.  T.  Austin,  and  his  indefatigable  wife 
Dormitori(\s,  dining-room,  and  I'ccreation-room  are  all 
well  furnished,  whilst  an  attractive  reading-room  is 
more  liberally  supplied  with  papers,  magazines,  and 
light  reading  than  one  often  finds  out  of  England  ; 
many  of  the  merchants  and  ag<'nts  who  are  indifferent 
about  evangelistic  efforts  being  very  wilHng  to  con- 
tribute to  this  bran<'h  of  the  work.  It  was  pleasing 
to  see  how  many  American  and  English  sailors 
appreciated  the  })lace.  I  had  not  an  opportunity  of 
seeinc  the  work  of  the  American  missionaries  in  the 
native  town,  of  which  I  heard  good  reports. 

As  an  illustration  of  American  enterprise,  the  first 
letter  that  was  handed  to  me  before  I  left  the  ship 
Wii.s  one  from  a  dealer  in  birdskins,  who  had  seen  my 
nanie  in  the  passengei'  list,  and,  r(>cognising  me  as  a 
naturalist,  sent  a  special  invitation  on  board  by  his 
a<^ent.      I  must  coiife,s,-i  he  uas  rewarded  for  his  pains. 


^i 


YOKOHAMA    AND    TOKIO 


35 


In  order  to  sec  the  city  we  embarked  in  jinrikshas, 
the  universal  liansoin  cabs  of  Japan.  They  are,  in 
fact,  a  light  armchair  with  a  hood,  on  a  pair  of 
bicycle  wheels,  with  h)ng  shafts,  and  a  coolie  running 
between  them.  It  was  hmg  before  I  could  reconcile 
myself  to  the  sensation  of  being  dragged  al)out  by  a 
brother  man,  but  it  is  really  the  only  mode  of  locomo- 
tion, except  one's  own  legs,  possible  in  this  (country 
outside  the  railways,  and  as  a  Japanese  once  said  to 
me,  '  Why  should  you  object  to  a  man-drawn  carriage  ' 
(literal  translation  of  jinriksha),  'when  you  have  no 
objection  to  being  pulled  by  a  man  in  a  boat  ? ' 

Towards  evening  we  went  by  rail  to  Tokio.     The 
railway  system  is  much  on  the  American  plan,  with 
the  important  exception  that  there  are  always  three 
classes   of   carriages;    but  most  are  long  and   open 
down  the  centre,  and  well  ventilated.     The  country 
through  which  we  passed  w^as    rich    and  thoroughly 
cultivated.     On  one  side,  the  Bay  of  Tokio  studded 
w^ith  shipping,  a  rice-covered  plain  intervening.     On 
the  other,  a  range  of  low  hills  with  picturesque  brown 
wooden  cottages,  frequent  little  temples  and  shrines 
marked  by  the  Shinto  gateway,  one  of  the  universal 
features  of  Japan  ;  and  orchards  of  fruit-trees.     On 
one  part  of  the  plain  was  an  expanse  of  pear-trees,  all 
trained  on  trellises  like  the  vines  of  Italy,  and  in  full 
bloom  ;  the  peach  and  cheriy  were  everywhere  in  the 
glory  of  full  blossom.     In  fact,  it  is  chiefly  for  the 
blossom  that  these  fruit-trees  are  cultivated.      The 
plums  are  little  better  than  sloes,  the  cherries  very 
smtdl,  and  the  peaches  poor.     So  little  are  the  fruits 

D  2 


k^M^miiism 


n 


36 


RAMBLES    IN    JAPAN 


apprcciatod  that  tlicre  arc  more  doiiblc-blossominii, 
than  ,siiiglo-])l()«somiiig  trees,  and  tlie  ])h)ss()m  by 
cultivation  has  been  developed  to  three  times  the 
size  of  the  correspond  in  m'  bloom  at  home  -the  cherrv 
bloom  often  attaining  the  size  of  oui-  wild  rose,  and 
ihe  peach  that  of  a  double  daisy.  There  was  ]iothing 
grand  on  the  rout(\  Init  evinything  attraetiv<\  neat, 
clean,  and  sweet,  perfe(;tly  in  keeping  with  the  bright 
little  folk  who  cover  the  land.  We  found  ourselves 
the  only  foreigners  in  the  long  American  car,  and 
whilst  my  daughter  talked  to  some  girls,  a  young 
Japanese  came  and  sat  by  me,  and  tried  to  air  his 
English,  which  was  very  scanty,  and  whicii  at  first  I 
did  not  recognise,  but  which  [ileascd  him  mightily. 
From  the  station  we  rode  in  iiiiriksJias  throuf^h 
wide  streets  with  th(>  mo^t  pictures(jue-roofed,  one- 
storeyed  houses,  and  open  shops  decked  in  the  gayest 
colours.  All  was  w^ood,  paint,  and  pa[ter.  It  was 
really  like  living  on  a  Japanese  screen.  Canals 
almost  as  numerous  as  streets  ;  and  by  the  side  of 
all  this  old-world  (juaintness,  ti'amways  and  'buses, 
telegraph  poles — one  of  whicfi  carried  sixty-four 
wires  as  I  counted  them — and  here  and  there  the 
w^histle  of  engines,  and  the  chimneys  of  factories  ; 
now  and  then  little  boulevards  with  rows  of  peach- 
trees,  one  blaze  of  bloom. 

'I'okio — that  is  the  east  capital — was  known  as 
Yedo  until  18(58,  when  the  JMikado  took  up  his 
residence  there  instead  of  at  Kioto  or  Saikio,  the 
west  capital.  It  is  a  vast  place  extending  many 
miles,  and  having  a  population  of  one  million  three 


^>y 


YOKOHAMA   AND   TOKIO 


39 


liiiiKlrcd  and  eighty-nine  thousand  souls,  but  very 
Hat,  the  greater  part  of  its  area  having  been  recovered 
from  the  sen  within  the  hist  three  centuries  ;  the 
favourite  (luartci-  of  Shiba  on  a  low  ridge  being  the 
Jlighgate  and  Ilampstead  of  the  [)lace. 

We  were  quartered  for  a  few  days  at  Tsukiji,  in 
the  European  concession,  with  a  hospitable  friend,  th<i 
I'ev.  J.  Williams,  of  the  Church  Missionary  Society. 
Missionaries  in  -Japan  have  a  great  advantage  in  that 
the  j)eople  are  not  jealous  of  Christian,  but  rather  of 
foreign,  influences,  and  keenly  appreciate  the  value  of 
education.  The  educational  system  in  Japan,  whether 
olcmentary,  secondary,  or  higher,  is  vt-ry  complete 
and  perfectly  organised.  The  government  subsidises 
it  liberally,  and  Christians  are  perfectly  untrammelled, 
while  there  are  Christian  professors  in  the  University, 
and  Christian  masters  in  the  schools.  The  empress, 
who  takes  a  lively  interest  in  education,  has  estab- 
lished a  college  for  ladies  \\\i\\  handsome  buildings, 
where  the  daughters  of  the  nobility  resort. 

The  strange  juxtaposition  of  East  and  West,  of 
indigenous  and  European  civilisation,  never  ceases 
to  impress  one  :  all  the  women  in  native  bright 
costume,  many  of  the  men  in  European  dress  more 
or  less  well  fitting.  But  still  the  native  costume 
predominates  in  Tokio.  Everyone  carries  his  insignia 
embroidered  on  the  ])ack  of  his  blouse  or  coat  : 
em:ploi/es  have  the  name  of  the  firm  in  huge  hiero 
glyphics  or  Chinese  characters  covering  the  whole 
of  their  l)ack  ;  gentlemen  always  have  their  crest 
embroidered  about  the  size  of  a  dollar  between  their 


40 


RAMBLES    IN    JAPAN 


sliouldors.  The  liuge  hieroglypliics  on  the  backs  of 
tlie  lul)()urin<r  men  are  supposed  to  be  the  distortions 
of  amient  Chinese  chamcters,  though  even  the 
learned  are  now  unable  to  dcci])hei'  them.  Thi; 
ai'morial  bearings  of  the  gentry  are  riuidly  hereditary, 
The  Japanese  have  a  very  ancient  and  highly  sys 
tematised  herahby,  (juite  distinct  in  its  idea  from  our 
l)earings  and  sliieUls,  and  taken  chiefly  from  leaves 
and  flowers.  Thus  the  ordinary  nnperial  crest,  as 
emblazoned  on  all  the  jMikado's  carriages,  is  the 
chrysanthemum  ;  and  another,  the  more  otticial,  cresi 
is  the  blossom  of  the  paulonia,  consisting  oi  three 
upright  spikes  of  blossom,  like  that  of  the  horse- 
chestnut,  in  a  row,  with  three  leaves  hanoiny;  down 
below.  The  insignia  of  the  latest  Shogun  dynasty 
was  a  trefoil  taken  from  a  large  species  of  the  herl) 
Paris.  The  Shoguns,  or  mayors  of  the  palace,  were 
comniitiil)-  known  to  Europeans  before  the  opening  of 
Japan  as  Tycoons,  a  corruption  of  the  Chinese  Tai 
Kwon,  i.e.  great  general.  These  (;rests  or  badges  are 
impressed  on  all  the  old  porcelain  and  bronze,  and 
indicate  at  once  in  what  distrit-t  or  under  what 
Dainiio  the  article  was  manufactured. 

The  palace  of  the  emperor,  with  its  widely  ex- 
tended parks  and  moats,  occupies  the  site  of  the  old 
castle  and  grounds  of  the  Shoguns.  The  park  is 
surrounded  by  a  wide  and  deep  moat,  the  enclosing 
walls  of  which  are  of  enormous  cyclopean  masonry. 
In  places  it  is  almost  choked  with  lotus  and  several 
species  of  water  lily,  and  crowded  with  wild  duck, 
amongst  which   the  beautiful  mandarin  duck  is  most 


4 


YOKOHAMA    AND   TOKIO 


41 


the  backs  of 
he  (listorlioiis 
s\\    even    tli'' 

tlicm.  Thi; 
ily  hereditary. 
1  hi_!j,'hly  sy.s- 
idea  from  our 
y  from  leaves 
'rial  crest,  a.s 
•ia,Q;es,  is  the 
'  otiicial,  crent 
tini>;  of  three 
>f  the  horse- 
lauging  down 
:)gun  dynast} 
5  of  the  herb 
i  palace,  were 
he  opening  of 
i  Chinese  Tai 
(jV  ])adges  arc 
[  bronze,  and 

under   what 

ts  widely  ex- 
lite  of  the  old 

The  park  is 
the  enclosing 
can  masonry. 
3  and  several 
;h  wild  duck, 

duck  is  most 


conspicuous.     Within  the  moat  are  the  old  magnifi- 
cent walls,  absolutely  impregnable  before  the  days  of 
gunpowder.      Passing  over  a  drawbridge  and  through 
the  gateway,  we  enter  the  outer  radius,  laid  out  as 
a  beautifully  kept  park.     Within  this  are  a  second 
moat  and  encircling  walls,  quite  as  wide  and  massive 
as  the  outer  circuit.      Within   these   again  are   the 
private  grounds,  gardens,  and  palace  of  the  emperor. 
f  should  have  mentioned  that  in  the  outer  park,  after 
crossing  the  fust  moat  on  the  right,  was  the  debris  of 
an  extensive  range  of  wooden  buildings  which  had 
lately  been  destroyed   by  fire,  and  which,  with  the 
usual  promptness  of  Japan,  crowds  of  workmen  were 
busily  employed  in  clearing  away  :  already  they  had 
commenced  their  reconstruction.     These  ruins  were 
those  of  the  first  Parliament-house  of  Japan,  which, 
having  closely  imitated  the  English  Constitution  in 
its  two  houses  of   Legislature,  of   which   the  upper 
is  partly  hereditary  and    partly  nominated  for  life, 
further  imitated  us  in  the  burning  down  of  its  first 
St.  Stephen's,  though  after  a  much  shorter  experience. 
We  can  only  trust  that  the  carefully  devised  institu- 
tions of  Japan  may  be  more  permanent  than  their 
first  home. 

Beyond  the  site  of  the  Parliament-houses  is  a  wide 
parade  ground,  answering  to  our  St.  James's  Park. 
On  the  other  side  of  the  park  is  a  vast  range  of 
buildings,  the  offices  of  the  various  government 
departments,  in  which  our  own  subdivisions  of  the 
Treasury,  Home  Office,  Education,  etc.,  etc.,  have 
been    pretty    closely    followed.       Here    also    is    the 


42 


R*  MULES    IN    JAPAN 


i 


:N 


government  printing  oiVwo,  and  the  manufactory 
of  bank-note  paper,  wliicli  is  a  Icga]  currency. 
Strangers  are  ])i'rmitted  to  see  the  printing  office. 

The  palace  itself  was  iiot  open  to  visitors  when  wc 
were  there,  as  it  was  occupied  l»y  the  emperor.  In 
its  outline  it  follows  the  anti<|ue  . Japanese  architec- 
ture, while  a  great  part  of  it  is  internally  furnished 
after  the  J^luropcan  fashion. 

Just  1)eyt»nd  the  KUtcr  moat  of  the  imperial  park- 
is  situated  the  liritish  legation.  1  (;annot  sulHciently 
acknowledge  the  courtesy  and  kindness  of  our 
minister,  the  late  Mr.  Frazer,  whose  recent  death  we 
have  to  dcploi'e  ;  through  whose  kind  efforts  we  at 
(mce  ol.tained  special  [)assports  enabling  us  for  six 
months  to  travel  wherever  wc  pleased,  without  being 
troubled  by  the  police  authorities,  a  favour  which  is 
very  rarely  granted,  and  wliich  caused  us  to  ])e  the 
envy  of  many  of  our  compatriots.  I  ha<l  letters  to 
Count  Ito,  and  recoiiimendaticms  from  the  Foreifrn 
Oflice  as  a  scientitic  man  much  interestcil  in  educa- 
tional work.  These  proved  of  great  value  in  my 
rambles. 

Our  next  day's  sight-seeing  M^^s  an  expedition  to 
Uyeno,  the  Hyde  Park  or  South  Kensington  of  Tokio. 
Here  have  been  held  three  national  industrial  exhibi- 
tions. Of  course,  as  we  had  a  journey  of  s(jme  miles 
across  the  city,  we  made  the  exfiedition  in  jinrikshas, 
01',  as  they  are  wmimoidy  call(M:l  by  the  Japanese, 
kurumas,  I  now  experienced  for  the  first,  but  not 
the  last,  time  the  tantalising  inconvenience  of  this 
-lapjincsc  mode  of  Iruvelling.     There  ucrc  four  of  us 


71 

o 


o 


^ 

^ 


w 


o 


YOKOHAMA    AM)    ToKIo 


45 


I 


iti  ii  lino,  quito  iiiifilde  to  converse,  whiles  I,  sooinu 
(^vcrv  iniiiute  new  .•iiid  pernle.xiiiL!;  sii;lils,  with  my 
<l;iii,Lilitei' just  in  iVoiit of  rac,  })ut  (|iiito  uniil)le  to  ask 
lii'i'  a  (luestion,  was  ohliired  to  l)e  eoiiteiit  with  the 
eontctn|)lation  of  the  l)aek  of  her  hat.  The  speoil 
whieli  t»iir  coolies  keep  up  is  really  aniazinn-.  They 
iiiaiiitaiu  ihe  rate  of  live  miles  an  hour,  and  fre- 
(|uently  a  greater  speed  if  the  distance  be  short. 
( »ii  one  occasion  two  men  with  one  kuruma  kept 
lip  this  s[)ee(l  for  four  hours  without  a  moment's 
iialt.  At  li'nLi;th,  as  W((  api»roached  IJyeno,  we  came 
to  a  slight  ascent,  and  wei'c  very  glad  to  get  out 
and  walk,  though  one  freijuently  finds  that  the  men 
consider  the  attempt  to  walk  uphill  a  slight  upon 
their  powers,  and  try  to  prevent  one  from  alighting. 
iMitering  the  park,  we  visited  the  Technical  JMuseum, 
that  of  Natural  History,  and  that  of  Japanese 
.Vnti<iuities. 

The  Natural  History  Museum  is  only  in  its  in- 
fancy, and  the  industrial  department  gives  a  very  good 
illustration  of  tl  e  various  manufactures,  textile,  metal, 
porcelain  and  lacquer,  of  the  country.  Ihit  the 
national  antiquities  are  such  as  can  be  seen  and 
studied  ncnvhere  else.  They  begin  by  the  stone 
arrow-heads,  spear-heads,  celts,  and  pottery  of  the  pre- 
historic period,  differing  very  slightly  from  our  own. 
Some  of  the  rude  pierced  ornaments  and  heads  are 
still  in  use  in  the  Loochoo  Islands,  and  of  exactly  the 
same  shape,  thus  giving  us  one  of  the  very  few  indica- 
tions we  possess  as  to  the  origin  of  the  early  inhabi- 
tants of  Japan.       Next  follow,  as  in  Western  Europe, 


m 


46 


UAMhLKS    IN    JAI'AN 


llu'  minors  iilcn.sils,  .iiid  \V('ii|Miiis  of  ihc  ln-on/c 
[H>rit)(l,  uiili  piittciy  of  ii  less  rudu  churiictrr.  'riicii 
follow  a  lai'Hi!  collciiioii  of  various  artifli's.  and  of 
[)ott('ry  liuiirt's  of  men,  horses,  and  liirds,  which  wi'rc 
loimd  in  <;Toat  ipiaiilities  inside  ihe  fuiid'ea!  nionnd 
(»('  one  of  the  earlier  emperors.  The  next  hall  is 
devoled  to  a!iti(piities  of  the  historic,  |)oriod,  the 
curliest  certain  date  heinij  A.D.  70S,  from  which  period 
(h)\vn\vards  tliei-e  is  a,  lino  collection  of  coins;  the 
an<-ient  coins  were  not  cinular,  hut  ohlong,  some  of 
the  gold  ones  verv  lariic  and  coviuvd  with  hiero- 
ulyphics,  hut  no  hnsts.  The  otliei-  untiijuitien  are 
chietiy  ol'  Ihiddliist  oriiiin  :  hut  one  of  th(>  most  in- 
terestin<;  collections  is  that  of  tlie  Christian  relics, 
especially  those  hronL;lit  hy  the  emhassy  sent  to  Kome 
liy  the  Prince  of  Sendai.  a.i>.  1()14. 

There  is  an  anuisinu  ditl'erence  in  the  Japanese 
and  I'oinan  versions  of  this  embassy.  The  I'Jiropean 
writers  state  that  the  envoy  went  on  tlu^  part  of  the 
Shogun  to  recognise  the  supremacy  of  the  po|)e,  who 
in  return  piesented  him  with  the  freedoUi  of  the  city 
of  liome  and  loaded  liini  with  presents.  The  Ja2)anese, 
on  the  contraiy,  slate  that  the  Shognn  sent  the  envoy 
in  order  to  report  u[)on  ihe  political  power  and 
military  strength  of  the  Iviropcan  nations.  Amongst 
the  relics  is  a  Latin  deed  conferring  on  llashikura  the 
freedom  of  the  city  of  IJonie.  a  pi  -ture  of  him  in 
prayer  before  tin  crucilix  in  his  Kuropcan  costume, 
and  copies  of  tin'  priiici''s  h'tters  lo  the  jjope  in 
Japanese  and  Laiin  By  the  side  of  these  are  shown 
the  trampling   boards — /.'     large    metal  slabs,   with 


YUKHllAMA    ANI»    ToKlO 


47 


li.^urvHof  tlir  Virgin  ail. I  ( 'liild,  aiul  of  tlu-  (lilU-iviit 
im-id.-ntH  ..r  i1m'  I'assioi.  nil  whirl,  suHpoctetl 
Christiuiis  were  coiiiiiclhwl  to  Iraiiiplt'  in  ovdw  to 
testify  tlu'ii- ul.junitioii  of  ( 'liiistiaiiity.  Tliis  collcf- 
lion  must  U'  our  <.f  the  most,  toiicliiny  intereHt  to 
every  ('liristiiiu. 

Tn  other  lialls  aro  exhil'itr.l   the.  ([miint  funiitiiic 
iiii.l  Ma[>|>iii«;H  usod  hy  the  Alikmlo  ami  Shogun  an.l 
thiir  courts  up  to  the  time  of  the  present  generation. 
The  most  eurious  arc  an  ainiciit  hulh.ck  carriage  and 
|..dan(|uiiis,   most  ri.-hly  carved  and  gihU'd,   as  well 
as   the   slate    har,-<'    used    hy    tlu;    Shoguns.       These 
l,iill(H-k  rarria,L-es  hear  the  same  relation  to  the  kuruma 
,.f  t.nday    that  the  state   coach  of  Queen   EUzal)eth 
docs  to  a  modern  landau.      Thi'vo.  was  also  the  throne 
of  the  ancient    Mika.h.s,  with   the  rich  silk   hangings 
that  used  to  conceal  him  from  the  gaze  of  his  subjects, 
who  were  only  alh-wed   lo  see   his  feet.      Some  of  the 
state  carriages  are  three  hundred  yea. rs  old,  and  tlu' 
lacquer  work  and  porcelain  jors  are  -  ''  untold   value. 
There   is,    besides,   a  tine  collection         old    Japanese 
armour  and  swords. 

We  went    •  I'     ihc  Zoologieal   (lardens,  which 

aie   onlv   '  iv   infancv.     Two    sheep    in    a   cage 

]),>tAveeii  -  uiall  bears  (m  the  one  side  and  leopards 
,,11  ill,.  ,ilui  were  evidently  the  most  popular 
euru).sii  .  They  were  taken  for  lions,  and  when  they 
1,1    ,^    1     ^,,,,,,.    of    the    ehildren    ..Kiimcd     'Lions 

ru.a'ing  ' 

We  then  went  on  to  a  \>  ry  tine  Sh  uio  temple,  the 
arranwemenl  consisting  of  variou      .iMuate  buildings. 


M 


I 


48 


RAMBJJ-.s    IN   JAPAN 


Facing  the  slirliic  of  the  central  temple  was  a  large 
hall,  quite  open  in  front ;  in  fact,  the  stage  of  a 
theatre,  with  roof  and  walls  of  wood  most  gorgeously 
carved,  gilded  and  painted.  A  play  was  being  per- 
formed. All  the  actors  were  men  dressed  in  antique 
costume ;  all  wore  masks,  some  of  them  grotesque, 
and  there  was  much  pantomime  and  recitation.  The 
theatricals  seemed  to  resemble  what  I  had  seen  in 
Chinese  temples,  and,  evidently  connected  more  or 
less  directly  with  the  worship,  reminded  me  of  what 
one  leads  of  the  miracle  plays  of  the  Middle  Ages. 

We  turned  round— the  temple  shrine  was  just  in 
front  of  us,  much  like  another  stage,  almost  the 
counterpart  of  the  theatre.  Within  the  shrine  was 
only  a  large  circular  disc  or  mirror  of  burnished 
metal,  with  long  strips  of  white  paper  suspended  from 
inscribed  tablets  on  either  side.  In  front  of  it  a 
lavish  display  of  lights  l)urning  ;  a  number  of  priests 
in  green  vestments  with  strange  instruments,  all 
sitting  on  the  elevated  platform  and  producing  weird 
music ;  below  this  dais  the  people  kneeling  in  prayer, 
frequently  clapping  their  hands ;  while  the  whole 
sacrarium  was  covered  with  small  coins,  called  rin, 
the  value  of  each  being  the  twentieth  of  a  penny, 
which  the  people  threw,  aiming  them  at  a  large  box 
placed  in  the  middle  of  the  sanctuary.  This  we 
found  was  a  great  function— the  anniversary  of  the 
death  of  one  of  the  Bhoguns. 

The  Shinto  worship  is  utterly  different  from  the 
Taouism  of  China,  and  has  none  of  its  gross  idolatry. 
In  some  respects  it  is  analogous  to  the  old  Persian 


I 


I 


YOKOHAMA    AND   TOKIO 


49 


(ii'c  worship,  tlic  miiTor  representing  the  sun,  who 
himself  is  the  representative  of  the  invisible  Deity, 
while  the  Mikado  is  the  human  representative  of  the 
sun,  and  therefore,  in  some  des^ree,  a  partaker  of  the 
divine  nature.  Nor  is  tiiis  all  the  meaning  of  the 
mirror,  the  great  feature  of  Shinto  worship.  In  it 
man  is  supposed  to  see  his  own  heart  mirrored,  and, 
comparing  it  with  the  purity  of  the  white  paper  by 
its  side,  to  see  wherein  he  fails,  and  (iorrect  it.  A 
Japanese  was  supposed  to  be  superior  to  any  moral 
code;  one  glance  at  his  heart  was  suthcicnt,  and 
he  \\  ould  certainly  reform  himself. 

Close  by  are  the  tombs  of  the  Shoguns,  with  two 
mortuary  temples.     The  carving  and  gilding  of  these 
temples  is  lavishly  ri(;h  in  barbaric  splendour.     The 
whole  structure  is  exclusively  of  wood,  the  ground 
colour  of  everything  being  painted  red,  upon  which 
the  most  skilful  native  art  has  been  lavishly  employed 
both    in    painting  and   sculpture.     Their   open-work 
carvino-  of  birds  and  flowers,  the  symbolic  chrysan- 
themum  predominating,  is  mingled  with  the  richest 
arabesques;    the  columns  are  wreathed  with  plum- 
blossoms  in  red  and  gold,  the  beams  with  lions'  heads 
also  in  red  and  gold.     Witldn  the  shrines  are  memo- 
rial tal)lets,  sumi)tuous  specimens  of  the  most  costly 
gold    lacquer,    commemorating    the   dead.     Another 
temple  contains  the  shrines  of  the  mothers  of  eight 
Shoo-uns.      Amonirst    the    fantastic    animals    which 
decorate  the  panels  of  these  buildings  1  was  surprised 
to  notice  both  the  unicorn  and  the  phoinix,  probably 
suggested  in  the  sixteenth  century  by  the  intercourse 

B 


50 


UAMi;i-K.S    IN    JAl'AN 


!     i 


of  .1,.,,,,.,..  with  Wcst.'vn  EurniH'.  An  even  finer 
tenipK'  than  thrsc  foniu-rlv  existed  ..n  tli(>  site  cf 
the  nmseuin,  l.ut  was  huriit  down  tive-aiid-twenty 
years  a-..,  dunng  a  Imtth^,  foiioht  in  this  park 
between   the  troops  of  the  Mikudo  and  those  of  the 

last  Blingun. 

Passing  from    the  teiuph's,   we  walked    under   a 
goro-eous    avenue    of    eherry-trees,   just  now  in   full 
blossom  and  at  this  time  tlu-  gMvat  attracition  of  Tokio. 
It  is  dillieuit  to  describe  the  ex(piisite  beauty  of  the 
pink  cherry-blossom.     It  is  like  nothing  else,  and  has 
been  called  'uniquely  beautiful.'     One  looks  up  and 
the  air  seems  filled  with  pink  clouds,     'ilie  natives, 
with  their  instinctive  eye  for  beauty,  are  never  tired 
,,f    these    jironienades.      On    one    occasion,  when   we 
were  making  an  excursion,  onr  kuruma  men  begged 
to  be  allowed  to  take  us  round  by  the  cherry  avemie. 
When  w(>  re[)lied  that  it  would  be  more  than  a  mile 
out  of  our  way,  the  men  said  they  would  charge  us 
nothing  more  if  we  would  only  go,  for  the  beauty  of 
the  plac(>,  would  abundantly  reward  them.     I  have 
not  nu>t  with  a  London  cabman  with  such  an  appreci- 
ation of  the  beauty  of  our  parks  in  spring.     One  of 
the  striking  features  of  the   IJyeno  temples  are  the 
colossal  bronze  standard  lanterns,  some  of  them  eight 
or  ten  feet  high,  which  are  placed  singly  or  in  rows 
leading  up  to  the  tem[)l(\      Innnense  stone  lanterns 
of   the  same  model   often    occur  in   \arious    temple 
crrounds.     It  is  dillii-ult  to    estimate    the    enormous 
value  of  the  metnl  of  the  solid  bronze  masses.      They 
arc  the  gift  of  various  great  Daimios  or  other  rich 


n  finer 
site  of 
■twenty 
s  park 
}  of  the 

mder   a 
in  full 
f  Tokio. 
T  of  the 
and  has 
up  and 
natives, 
'ci'  tired 
hen   we 
begged 
avenue. 
.  a  mile 
large  us 
eauty  of 
I  have 
a.ppreci- 
( )ne  of 
are  the 
I'ln  eight 
in  rows 
lanterns 
;    temple 
(norraous 
s.     They 
ther  rich 


^y'M 


:  ^ 

^'i.';:|' 

.-'i'V'; 

-'    7 

;v|s 

/-    ^ 

.      '%'/:, 

_     — 

'    > 

■    ''>rr^^. 

-  ri 

->■':;■■ 

y'^    * 

'.■•!':-!'• 

1    '/ 

^    ^ 

'  ,  '"-V't 

—    *< 

:m 

y    - 

■  ■  ■  r.i) 

i;  > 

.   .*>:^ 

■A 


—         .V 


!•:  -2 


H 

**•! 


i'\ 


HI 


H 


f 


i\ 


YOKOHAViA    AND   TOKTO 


53 


I 


men  to  tho  momory  of  tlic  Slio,muis,  and  each  lanlcrii 
hiis  the  name  of  tlie  donor  iiiscnl.ed  upon  it. 

After  these  renuiiisc-eiices  of  tho  .laj)aii  <>f  the  i)aKt. 
I  spent  two  days  in  visiting  the  University  of  Tokio, 
the    eml)ryo    Japan    of    the    future.      The    Imperial 
iMiiversity  is  intended  for  the  whole  (-ountry,  and  is 
the  only  university  in  the  empire.      All  students  must 
have  previously  passed  tlu'ough  one  of  the  three  great 
,.„lloues,  which  are  sui)porti'(l  by  the  government,  and 
„f  which  there  is  one  in  the  ishan.l  of  Kiushiu  and  two 
i„  Hondo,     'i^here  are  more  than   1,:'.()0  students  at 
the  university.     I  met  a  number  of  professors,  most 
„f  them  native  gentlemen,  graduates  of  Cambridge, 
l.cipsic,  and  Harvard,  amongst  them  a  wrangler  and 
two    English    professors,   both   Fellows  of   the  Royal 
Societv.^l  had  an  introduction  to  Dr.  Ijima,  the  head 
of  thJ  zoological  department,  where  there  is  n^ally  a 
line  national   collection,  and   the   nucleus  ..f  a  good 
general    mu' .'im.     I    was    invited    to    dine    in    the 
comm..n-rooii     with    the    professors,    who    all    spoke 
l<:nglish    tiueiitly.       The    dinner,    however,    was   not 
puixly  Japanese,  for  knives  and  forks  and  European 
as  well  as   native  dishes  were  generally  patronised. 
The  students  do  not  reside  in  college,  nor  is  there  any 
collegiate    discipline.     They    appeared   generally    to 
wear  a  dress  modified  from  our  cap  and  gown. 

1  was  much  interested  with  the  botanic  gardens, 
and  learned  a  good  deal  from  the  curator,  as  well  as 
from  the  gardeners  who  happened  to  l)e  employed  by 
my  h.>st.  of  the  Japanese  arts  of  dwarting.  trans))lant- 
inV  and  distorting  trees  and  shrubs.     They  success- 


r)4 


RAMBLES    IN    JAPAN 


fully  transplant  forest  trees  at  any  age.     They  have 
dwarf  pines,  (uyptonierias,  maples,  and  oranges,  living 
and  healthy,  only  a  few   inches  high,    with    leaves 
blossom,   fruit,  all  e(|ually  liliputiiin,  in   pei'fect  pi'o- 
portiou.      They  are  extremely  fond  of  the  grotesrjue 
and    artifieiiil      Ifow    the    dou])le    hlossonis   and  the 
spotted  idliage  |)|;mts,  of  which   they  are  so  fond,  are 
produced,  I  was  not  ai)le  to  ascertain.      Most  effective 
ai-e    the  trees,  maph's  and  others,  in  which  the  foliao-e 
of  each  branch  is  of  a  different  colour.      Thus  I  have 
seen  a  well-grown   maple-tree  with  seven  large  limhs, 
each  having  foliage  of  a  ditierent  hue,  varying  fi'oni 
(hirk    eo])per    to    pink    and    greenish-white —this,    of 
course,  by  grafting.     The  trees  that   are  intended  to 
be  dwai'fcd   are    pla(;ed  in  pots  alongside  of  a  wire 
frame;    it   inay    be   two   oi'  three   feet   in    height,  or 
perhaps  only  a  i'ew  inches.      This  frame  represents  the 
exact   number,  shape,  and  size  of   the  bi'anches  the 
tree  is  to  b-e  allowed  to  Ih-n  e  ;  and  every  branch  is 
bound  to   the  wii-e  or    vUe    cut  oil".     The  roots  are 
carefully  piinu'd  and  confined,  and  th(>  young  iVdiaf^e 
is  unceasingly  nipped  oH".     The  transplanting  of  full- 
grown  trees  was  very  sim[)le.     The  roots  were  simply 
laid  bare,   taking  esp(  care  to  preserve  the  most 

delicate  fibres,  and,  a.^  soon  as  the  earth  has  been 
cleared  away  by  the  fingers  or  sticks,  not  with  spades, 
lest  they  should  be  bruised,  each  bunch  of  rootlets  is 
confined  in  a  little  coit(m  bag.  I  luive  seen  a  tree 
moved  in  this  way  which  required  twenty  men  to 
move  it  with  rollers.  Whc^n  the  tree  is  placed  in 
its  new  position,  the  bags  are  unloosed  one  by  one, 


M 


v-^'^" 


JAI'ANKSi:   SnI.Diilt   OF   TIIK   OLD  TIME. 


YOKOHAMA    AND   TOKIO 


57 


°Mi 


and  (ino,  pulvci'iscM]  soil  cnii'l'iilly  s|)iiiikl('il  l)ot\vocn 
the  iil)iv,-',  no  rootlet  lieini;'  iiUowed  to  toneh  unotlier. 
Tliev  attach  ,^reat  inqxa-tance  to  the  work  of  trans- 
planting, which  is  always  begun  in  the  evening,  being 
eonii)leted  before  the  heat  of  tlu'  next  day.  However. 
Japanese  gardening  is  an  art  which  it  evidently 
re»niires  years  to  master,  and  which  would  well  repiy 
the  student  o."  ])lant  life. 

C'haruiiug    as  arc   the   buildings    and   scenery   ot 
I'yeno,    they    arc   certainly    in    ahnest   every    pi^int 

excelled  by  those  of  Shiba, 

situated     at     the     southern 

end,    as    Uyeno   is    at    the 

northern,  of  the  great  city. 

^Ve  spent  portions  of  several 

days  in   visiting  this   maze 

of    gardens,     temples,    and 

tombs.       The    great    street 

leading    to   it    contains   the 

most   interesting    shops    of 

I'very    kind,    the     type    of 

which    is   but   little    spoiled 

by    European     innovaticms. 

Here  is  the  Wardour  Street 

of  Tokio. 

I  was  most  attracted  by 

the   fine  collections  of   the   ancient    armour,   now— 

alas,  f.)r  picturcs(pie  .(uaintness  1— utterly  discarded. 

As  one  watched  the  nimble  battalions  of  little  riHe- 

men  marching  through  the  streets  on  their  way  to  or 

from  parade  in  their  Fienchified  uniform,  and   now 


JAPAKESE   BliONZi;   l.ANTEKN. 


II 


h 


58 


RAMBLES   IN   JAPAN 


rend  of  tlioir  prowess  a<!;ainst  their  hereditary  rivals, 
we  coidd  hardly  realise  that  not  only  the  uraiid- 
fathei's  liiit  the  fathers  of  these  da|)per  little  men 
had  paraded  these  same  streets  in  all  the  "^lory  of 
their  niedia'val  aecoiitrements,  wei,L,dited  with  chain 
armour  and  steel  helmets,  and  gilt  with  their  two 
swords. 

The  collections  of  old  armour  and  sw^ords  in  these 
shops  were  to  me  as  fascinatin<if  as  a  display  of  the 
fashions  in  Ut'L^^ent  Street  to  an  English  belle,  while 
the  prices,  as  far  as  I  could  judge,  were  extremely 
moderate.  I  made  many  purchases  at  a  price  really 
less  tlian  the  value  of  the  material.  Amongst  the 
most  heautiful  specimens  of  Japanese  art  were  the 
richly  inlaid  guards  of  the  swords,  elaborately  worked 
in  gold  or  silver  in  endless  artistic  devices.  Some  of 
the  sheaths  also  were  exquisitely  ornamented  in  the 
same  fashion.  In  fact,  ancient  armour  was  at  this 
time  a  drug  in  the  market,  many  of  the  poorer 
Samurai  being  compelled  to  part  with  their  treasured 
accoutrements  for  rice.  We  purchased  several  swords 
of  very  fine  temper  for  moderate  prices,  but  the  work 
of  some  of  the  celebrated  artificers  of  these  blades 
still  commands  a  fancy  price,  their  reputation  sur- 
passing the  reputation  of  the  finest  Damascus  blades. 
The  names  of  some  few  of  these  artificers  are  handed 
down  for  many  generations,  and  their  blades,  which 
are  marked  and  rec(»gnised,  are  treasured  as  a 
Stradivarius  would  be  by  a  nmsical  connoisseur. 

There  were  also  for  sale  large  collections  of  nitsuki, 
or  ivory  carvings — a  kind  of  large  button  used  for 


\ 


i 


ANCIENT  JAPANESE  ARCHER. 


m 


s 


VoKDilAMA    AM*    ToKK) 


fastciiin.i;  till'  iii.'\i';tl.l('  pipe  an. I  p"U.-li  int.*  the 
ninllr.  SoiiK'  <'f  ili.'sc.  aiv  exquisitely  earve.l.  ami 
are  nmstcrpioees  ..I'  art  -mice  iiearlv  life  .si/.e, 
s.iuinvls   and     various     small     animals    in    all     si.rtti 


JAPANESE   HUTTONt!. 


of  attitudes,  where  tlie  artist  has  indulged  his 
lively  fancy  in  every  form  of  grotes([ue  humour. 
These  sculptured  mtsuki  are  pierced  with  two  holes, 
through  which  a  silk  covd  is  passed,  on  which  used 
to   i)e    hunt--    little  bugs  of  tlint  and    steel,    tobacco 


1,1 
■ni 


i  ,'1' 


ill 


62 


RAMBLKS    IN    JAPAN 


•111(1  liamlioo  pipe  n'itli  its  tiny  brass  Ixnvl.  Tlio  flint, 
steel,  and  tinder-liox  aiv  of  ('(luiso  now  superseded  by 
nuitches.  The  grotos(pi('  uonorally  propondoratos  in 
these  nitsuki,  hut  many  of  them  are  historical  fioures 
or  ilhistrations  of  doniestic  life.  In  fact,  from  tiiese 
carvings  one  may  get  as  compk4e  an  idea  of  Japanese 
Jife  as  we  ma\'  of  Egyptian  from  the  frescoes  hy  tlic 
Nile.  Ivory  has  e\i(h'iitly  been  a  most  abundant 
material  in  Jajiaii  until  recently,  but  it  is  not  the 
ivory  of  the  elcpliant  from  India.  It  is  said  to  ha\'o 
been  imported  from  Corea,  whither  it  had  been 
brought  from  the  shores  of  the  Arctic  Ocean,  strewn 
with  the  tusks  of  the  prehistoric  mammoth. 

Being  in  search  of  a  butterfly-net,  or  the  where- 
witlial  to  make  it,  1  was  directed  to  the  sliop  of  a 
dealer  in  fishing-tackle.  It  was  interesting  to  find 
that  the  trout  and  salmon  of  .la])an  sui-ciiml)  to  the 
same  wiles  as  ihrir  fellows  in  Northern  lMn'o[)e.  But 
while  the  flies  were  liomc-maih',  the  hooks  themselves 
were  all  supitlied  from  ikcdditch,  the  wares  of  which 
have  c<miplete]y  su])planted  \]\v.  native  manufacture. 
Gaudy  sab-ion  flies,  biown  jialmers,  and  other  familiar 
types,  recalled,  in  that  fav-otf  laml.  the  memories  of 
many  a  Northumbrian  '  biun.'  We  found,  too.  a 
taxi(h'rmist's  shop  ;  for  the  study  of  Nature  in  all  its 
bram-hes,  botany  especial!}',  was  appreciated  by  the 
Japanese  long  before  the  country  was  opened  to  inter- 
course with  iMirope.  AVhile  rummaging  his  stores,  1 
came  across  an  excessively  rare  bird  frojn  ilie  j.oochoo 
Islands,  of  wliicii  only  two  or  three  specimens  had 
ever  reached    luirope.     J    had  found  his  prices  very 


jt 


YOKOHAMA    ANlJ    TOKIO 


63 


moderate,  1)iit  for  this  he  asked  me  five  dollars.  I 
demurred  to  the  price,  but  I  ha\c  always  found  the 
Japanese  are  at  once  fetched  by  a  joke  ;  and  so,  when 
lie  told  me  that  the  dealer  in  live  birds  across  the 
street  asked  twenty-five  dollars  for  a  living  bird,  1 
replied,  throuoh  my  daughter,  that  such  a  good  man 
as  he  was  worth  a  thousand  dollars  when  alive,  but  1 
would  be  sorry  to  give  ten  for  him  when  dead.  The 
dealer  threw  himself  back,  laughing  heartily  at  the 
joke,  and  said  1  might  have  it  for  a  dollar. 

But  nothing  in  this  street  was  more  interesting  to 
me  than  the  shops  of  the  dealers  in  live  birds.  I  liave 
iiev<'r  been  able  to  ascertain  how  the  Japmese  succeed 
in  keeping  in  captivity  many  species  which  with  us 
pine  and  perish  in  ('onfinement.  One  of  the  commonest 
cage-birds  is  the  titmouse,  all  the  species  of  which, 
several  of  them  identical  with,  or  closely  allied  to,  our 
own,  as  the  great,  marsh,  and  cole-tits,  seem  most 
liap[)y  <iud  healthy  in  their  little  bamboo  prisons. 
The  Japanese  robin,  a  close  cousin  of  (nir  own,  and 
only  to  be  distinguished  by  his  under-parts  being 
steel-grey  where  ours  are  white,  is  also  a  very  favourite 
cage-bird.  I  often  thought,  when  I  saw  robins, 
titmice,  warblers,  and  the  like,  singing  brightly  and 
evidently  at  their  ease  in  their  cages — birds  which  we 
never,  or  very  rarely,  succeed  in  domesticating— that 
there  must  be  something  very  sympathetic  in  the 
Japanese  nature,  some  magnetic  attraction  between 
them  and  the  birds,  which  is  foreign  to  our  more 
phlegmatic  Western  nature.  I  was  struck,  too,  by 
the  contrast,  in  appearance  and  plumage,  between  t\\o 


n 


i  ! 


% 


I!    I 

]    i 


(".4 


RAMBLES    IN    JAl'AN 


spri'jhtlv    oa.^e-lmds    of    J.ii)!in    and    the    draggled, 
miserable  looking  captives  which    1    have  seen  in  the 
Chinese   ha/.aars.     But    the  Japanese    (cultivates    his 
captives  because  he  loves  them  ;  the  ('hJnaman  entraps 
tlieni  to  trade  with  the  foreigner.     Tlie  abundance  of 
swallows  skinmiing  in  all  the  streets,  and  threading 
tlicir  rapid  flight  between  the  heads  of  the  passers-by, 
must  strike  the  most  unobservant.     Scarcely  a  house 
or  sho])  in  Tokio  is  without  one  pair  at  least  of  these 
cheery  little    summer  residents.      They  are    of  two 
species,  one  scarcely  to  be  distinguished  from  our  own 
chimney  swallow,  the  other  the  red-rumped  swallow, 
almost  as  abundant,  but  easily  to  be  distinguished  by 
the  bright  red   of  the  lower  back,  and  its  streaked 
throat  and  breast.     There  being  no  chimneys,  both 
species  adapt  themselves  to  circumstances  and  build 
on  the  rafters  and  ledges  of  the  houses  and  shops, 
within  reach  of  any  passer-by,  tlitting  in  and  out  with 
the  fearlessness  of  domesti(i  pets.     To  molest  them 
would  be  a  crime   e(pial    to   rudeness    to  a  fellow- 
creature.     And  in  order  to  prevent  any  dirt  or  untidi- 
ness, a  thin  board  is  carefully  suspended  under  every 
nest,  and  daily  cleaned.     Our  chimney  swallow  tinds 
a  ledge  to  build  his  open  nest,  but  the  other  attaches 
bis  mud  structure  to  the   roof,  after  the  fashion  of 
(»ur  window  martin,   and  for  greater  security  adds  a 
funnel-shaped  passage  about  afoot  long  of  the  same 
material.     Ilenc'C  they  are  called  in  the  country  "  the 
bottle  swallows.' 

But  wi   have  lingered  long  on  the  way  to  Shiba  ! 
Shiba  has  a  charm  of  its  own  in  the  fact  of  its  being 


I'H 


YOKOHAMA    AND   TOKIO 


05 


on  rising  ground  ;  and  the  miunificcnt  and  noble  trees 
certainly  are  an  exception  to  the  ordinal}-  diminntive- 
ncss  of  most  things  in  Japan.  As  a  friend  remarked 
wlieii  he  had  first  seen  an  avenne  of  gigantic  erypto- 
niorias,  '  It  is  worth  coming  to  Japan  to  see  the 
cryptonieria  at  home.'  The  floral  gh)ries  of  the  islands 
were  at  their  lieigh*-.  The  glowing  sheets  of  colonr 
covered  the  donhle-blossoming  cherries  and  peaches 
of  every  hue.,  trom  the  deepest  crimson  to  the  purest 
white,  in  great  masses  ;  and  then  the  cryptomerias. 
maples,  Salisbunas,  and  other  trees,  with  their  pale 
juid  dark  foliage,  were  grouped  artistically  in  a  way 
of  wddch  we  have  no  conception. 

I  >ut  the  central  attractions  of  Shiba  are  the  shrines, 
sacred  to  the  memory  of  Shoguns  of  the  Tukugawa 
family,  six  of  whom  are   buried  at  Uyeno,  two  at 
Nikko,   and    six    at   Shiba,   whilst  the   last  deposed 
prince  is  sti^  living.     These  shrines  are  of  very  ri<'h 
woodwork,  with  the  most  elal»orate  gilding,  approached 
through  numerous  groups  of  colossal   -t-one  lantern-^. 
We  enter   by  a   gateway  whose  pill;  ;  -   nave  metal 
drag*)ns  twisted  round  them,  and  are  gilt.     The  court 
inside  this  gate  is  lined  with  two  hundred  and  twelve 
huge  l)ronze  lanterns,  the  gift   of  ditferent  Daimios 
during  the  last  two  centuries.     Through  a  third  gate 
are  galleries  with  ri(dily  painted  panels  and  carved 
birds  and  flowers,  while  the  beams  of  the  roof  of  the 
temple  arc  carved  into  the  shapes  of  dragons.     Here 
we  had  to  take  olf  our  shoes  before  we  entered  what 
may  be  called  tlie  chancel  or  san«;tuaiy.      Within  the 
uimost  sanctuary  are  shrines  in  which  are  concealed 


A- 

i 


■.jirt*-*«-.- 


Cy6 


IIAMHI.KS    liN    JAVAS 


the  stiituos  of  the  different  Sliocrims.  But  these 
images,  the  gifts  of  emperors,  are  iievcu'  shown,  so 
tliat  there  are  no  images  visihle.  On  the  outer  plat- 
form the  Samurai  and  h^sser  gentry  used  to  worsliip, 
whilst  in  the  corridor  leading  to  the  inner  sanctum 
the  great  Daimios  were  admitted  ;  the  Great  Shogun 
alone  worshipping  in  the  inner  sanctuary.  On  either 
side  of  the  shrines  ar(^  wooden  statues  of  the  guardian 
angels,  who  are  supposed  to  protect  tlu^  world  against 
demons.  Tlie  outer  courts  of  these  shrines  are 
decorated  with  barbaric  magnificence.  The  most 
gorgeous  gold  lacquer  is  held  together  by  costly  and 
beautifully  executed  metal  work.  It  is  curious  to 
note  amongst  the  favourite  decorations  the  unicorn, 
the  fabled  animal,  which  .seems  to  be  recognised  in 
the  East  as  well  as  in  the  West.  Behind  these 
gorgeous  temples  a  long  flight  of  stone  steps  leads 
up  to  the  tombs  of  some  of  the  Shoguns.  Most  of 
these  tombs  are  .striking  for  their  austere  simplicity, 
everything  about  them  being  suggestive  of  power, 
in  striking  contrast  to  the  lavish  decorations  of  the 
temples  in  front. 

About  a  mile  farther  on  is  a  very  curious  Buddhist 
temple,  the  burial-place  of  the  forty-seven  Ronins, 
who  are  looked  upon  as  national  heroes  by  the 
Japanese,  and  form  the  groundwork  of  one  of  the 
most  popular  romances.  Although  the  events  are 
said  to  have  occurred  only  about  two  hundred  years 
ago,  they  take  a  place  in  Japanese  romance  not  unlike 
that  of  the  heroes  of  Kino;  .Xrthur's  Kound  Table 
amongst  ourselves.      The  outlines  of  the  story  are 


..;.. 


F   2 


1 


YOKOHAMA    AND   TOKIO 


69 


worth  tellincr,  ub  illustraiin-  the  natumul  spirit,  which 
elevated  a  l,h)odthirsty  revenge  to  the  highest  place 
among  the  social  virtues.     The  story  is  briefly  this  : 

One  Dainiio  having  been  assassinated  by  another 
in  a  dastardly  manner,  his  vassals,  or  Samurai,   as 
thev  are  called  (a  position  somewhat  resembling  that 
of  the  esquires  and  retainers  of  a  mediseval  knight), 
havin-  now  no   liege  lord,  became  Ih.nins,  that  is, 
'  wave  men,'  a  kind  of  mendicant  soldiers  of  fortune, 
it  being  beneath  their  dignity  to  engage  in  manual 
labour      Forty-seven  of  them  entered  into  a  secret 
league  to  avenge  their  lord's  death,  in  which  enter- 
prise, after  many  .omantic  adventures,  they  finally 
succeeded  ;  and  having  seized  the  great  Dainno,  they 
offered  him  what  was  considered  an  honourabl,;^  end, 
l.y  permitting  him  to  perform   harakiri,  that  is,  to 
crive  himself  the  happy  despatch  by  using  his  own 
short   sword.      On    his    refusal    they  slew   him,  and 
then,  proceeding  to  Yedo,  gave  themselves  up  to  the 
authorities,   who   sentenced   the    whole    of    them    to 
perform   harakiri,  which   accordingly   they  did,  and 
have  been  looked  upon  as  loyal  heroes  and  martyrs 

ever  since.  . 

Pibrrimacres  are  made  to  their  tombs  in  this  temple, 
as  to  the  shrine  of  Thomas  a  Becket ;  incense  is  con- 
tinually burned  in  their  honour,  and  their  clothes 
and  relics,  carefully  preserved,  are  at  certain  intervals 
of  years  exhibited  to  the  admiring  crowds  who  flock 
from  all  parts  of  the  country,  as  in  Europe  to  the 
Holy  Coat  of  Treves,  bringing  great  wealth  to  the 
temple  Sengekuji. 


as 


?■! 


70 


HAMJSLKS    IN    .lAI'AN 


1! 


, 

i^Hii 

1 

HHI^I 

; 

^^Bis 

; 

^^^B1i 

^^^^HSH-i- 

^^^Qti 

This  Li'i'iiijHil'  liiiiMiii^s  in  Sliiha  is  one  of  tlu-  most 
I'ciiiaikaMr  in  the  whole  country,  siirjxisscd  only  liy 
tlio.Si.^  of  jS'ikko  ami  Kioto.  Ihit  what  stiiick  inc  must 
v/as  the  woii(lciTiilly  artistic  arran^'cniciit  of  the  tivos. 
We  seemed  to  lie  w andcrinij,'  in  a  wild  wood  fid!  of 
exotic  trees,  and  at  every  turn  <'anu>  unexpectedly  on 
a  roof  nystled  beneath  them,  with  its  upturned  corners 
resplendent  in  tlie  sindi^ht. 

Few  thiuus  ea,.  ,L;iv(>  the  strangei'  a  better  idea  of 
the  ait  antl  manufactures  of  Japan  than  a  visit  to  the 
Shiba  Ivwankoba,  or  bazaar,  with  its  winding  maze 
of  eoi'ridors.  on  either  side  of  which  all  the  goods  are 
exposed.  It  is  well  to  visit  this  place  with  a  well- 
lined  purse,  for  the  tem))tations  are  irresistible.  The 
vounu  ladies  i!i  attendance  stand  in  front  of,  not 
bchiiiil.  the  counters.  There  is  one  immense  advan- 
tage to  the  Westi'in  stranger,  in  that,  contrary  to  the 
almost  universal  custom  of  the  country,  all  the  articles 
are  marked  in  plain  Japanese  figures,  and  there  is  no 
l)argaining.  J  lours  maybe  spent  in  the  contemplation 
of  things  new  and  old  anti(pie  carving  in  ivorx'  ; 
costly  bits  of  ancient  jiotter}-  ;  lac([uer  of  e\ery  kind, 
ancient  and  modern  :  bewildering  piles  of  delicate 
porcehiin  ;  silks,  rich,  [)lain.  and  embroidered  ;  screens 
and  fans;  to  say  nothing  of  nioi'e  homely  domestic 
articles.  I  was  able  to  make  an  interesting  collection 
of  Japanese  tools  and  instruments,  and  many  charming 
models  illustrating  all  the  operations  of  agriculture 
and  carpentry,  culinary  work,  and  the  life  of  the 
home.  Dolls  and  toys  were  a  great  feature,  and 
in  the  latter  the  productions  of  Holland  pale  before 


YOKOHAMA    AND    ToKIo 


71 


those  of  Tokio.  « )\w  w'Jis  iiistiuitly  iinprllcH  to  count 
up  ihc  uumbcra  of  nephews,  iiicccH,  and  omndchildreu 
whose  birthdays  would  l)o  _t-huldcned  by  a  lemeiulininee 
IVoni  the  other  side  of  th(>  woiM. 

The  following  morning,  .\i)ril  1*9,  on  hx.kiiig  out 
I  was  surprised  to  sre  a  display  of  eoh.ur  in  a  novel 
form  in  every  direetion  ovei'  ilie  wliole  rity.     On  the 
roofs   and    corners   of  houses   all   around    were    huge 
paper   Imlloons    in    the    gaudiest  colours,   suspended 
from  bamboos  from  twenty  to  fifty  feet  high.     The 
balloons,  or  hollow  paper  bags,  are  cut  in   the  shape 
of  a  iish,  sometimes  twelve  feet  long,  with  a  large 
open   mouth   formed   l«y  a  wire  ring,  into  which  the 
wind   blowing  inflates   the   fish,   wlii.-h   waves   about 
after  the    manner  of  a  weathercock,  and  is  painted 
very  cleverly  in  brilliant  <-olours.     It  was  the  Japanese 
May  Day,  and  on   this  day  it  is  the  custom  that  a 
paper  iish  should  float  over  every  house  in  which  a 
boy    has   been    born    during    the    past    year,   and    it 
remains  hoisted  for  a  month,  giving  every  town  and 
village  the  appearance  of  being  I'li  frfc.     The  girls, 
I   am  ashamed  to  say,  have  no  siuth  honour  paid  to 
them.     The  explanation  of  this  extraordinary  custom 
is  that  it  symbolises  that  as  the  fish  swims  up  stream, 
so  may  the  boy  successfully  face  all  the  struggles  of 
life.     S(mie  boys  are  honoured  by  a  row  of  a  dozen 
fishes  on   one  pole,  and   certainly,  to  judge  by  the 
thousands  of  these   fish-fiags,  there  is  no  fear  of  a 
lack  of  men  in  the  Cviming  generation  to  defend  their 

countr}". 

I  had  been  asked  hv  the  Tokio  Cniiistian  Evidence 


72 


RAMULES    IN    JAPAN 


ll 


■»■     ! 


Society   to  (Iclivcr   u    lecture  on   this    aftornoon   on 
IlistoiicCorrohomtioiisor  the  rciituti'iKli  liom  icceut 
Koy])tian  discovories.     The  society  is  formed  hy  tlie 
iiiissionarie.s   of    the    various    denominations,    ehietly 
American,   and    the    president    is  Arclideacon    Siiaw, 
the  venerable  seni-T  snissionary  of  the  Socioty  lor  the 
I'ropanjation  of  the  Oospel.     'I'he  hu-turc-room  was  a 
large  isolated  hail,  called  the  lahernacle,  l.tiilt  near 
the   University  liy   Aineri(;an    Methodist  Kpisc'oj)als, 
but  vvliicli   is  used  freely  for  Christian  work   by  all 
denominations.      Archdeacon   9^'    ,    -.vas  in  the  chair, 
and    I   was  rather  taken  aback    by  the  size  of  the 
audience,  about  a  thousand,  of  whom  one-fourth  were 
undergraduates    of    the    University    with    their   soft 
square  caps.     Most  of  them  understand  some  En<Tbsh. 
•ind   all    are    eager   to    improve     themselves   in    our 
language.     I  also  here  met  for  the  first  time  liishop 
Hare,   an    American    prelate,  who   was  for  the  time 
assisting  Bishop  Williams,     f  must  say  the  Japanese 
are  patient  listeners,  foi    they  bore   with   me  for  ;.u 
hour   and   twenty  minutes.     I    can    only   hope  that 
many  of  them  carried  away  a  clearer  idea  than  did 
the  reporters  of  the  Yokohama  papers,  which  honoured 
me  with  a  column.     However,  it  is  somctiiing  that  the 
Japanese  papers  should  give  unasked  so  much  space 
to  a  religious  ^nbject.      In  tl      evening-  I  enjoyed  an 
extremely  pleaMUtdinne]'- pan y  at  the  English  Bishop 
Bickersteth's,  wh(M-e  I  met,  amongst  others,  Mr.  Kirk- 
wood,  the  legal  adviser  of  the  Japanese  Government 
on  international  law,  and  Professor  Ijima,  Professor 
of  Zoology  in  the  University  of  Tokio. 


YOKOHAMA    AND   TOKIO 


While  8tayin«ji'  with  Mr.  Williams  in  Tsiikiji  I  hn<l 
my  first  and  only  ex  p.     'nee  of  a  .JfipuneHt'  carth- 
(juake.     W^ould   that  tl.     experience  of   others  had 
been  fraught  with  as  littlu  injury  as  my  own  !     As  I 
was  sitting  in  my  room  just  after  breakfast,  all  of  a 
sudden  the  floor  seemed  to  heave  a  sigh;  the  prints, 
of  wliieh  there  wcne  a  good  many,  clattered  two  or 
three  times  on  the  walls,  and  the  bells  in  the  house 
be<nin  to  rinu'.     I  knew  at  <mce  what  was  the  matter, 
for  though  it  was  years  since  I  had  felt  an  earth- 
(juake,  the  sensation   is  one  the  memory  of  which 
time  can  never  etlace.      My  mind  reverted  at  once  to 
the  earthquake  which  overthrew  Bona  and  Djileli  in 
Algeria,  and  of  which  I  had  experienced  the  full  force 
in  the  Sahara.     On  both  occasions  I  had  a  strange 
physical  sensation,  resembling,  I  suppose,  that  of  sea- 
sickness, of  which  happily  I  am  personally  ignorant. 
1  do  not  suppose  that  the  tremulous  motion  lasted 
more  than   three  seconds,  though  the  vibration  con- 
tinued a  little  longer.     No  further  harm  was  done  in 
Tokio,  though  people,  when  other  conversation  failed, 
,  entioned  it  as  we  might  the  weather. 

A  Sunday  in  Tokio  gave  me  an  opportunity  of 
ceiiiu  a  little  of  the  Christian  mission  work.  Cer- 
iiih'  lh(  metropolis  of  Japan  has  samples  })cforc  it 
I  >f  e\  cry  form  and  development  of  Christianity.  There 
are  representatives  of  the  Cliurch  Missionary  Society, 
the  first  Enrrlish  society  of  any  denomination  to  enter 
Japan;  of  the  Society  for  the  Pro}  ,aiie  of  the 
Gospel;  Bishop  Piickersteth's  mission;  tii-.  Cowley 
Fatljers  ;  the  Anierican  Protestant  Episcopal  Church, 


k 


r  « 


11 


i 

I  1 

j, 

^ 

* 

„i 

: 

74 


KAMIU.Krt    IN    JAl'yVN 


very  Htroiiiily  rcprcsenrctl  :  .unl  <»f  Amcrii'iins,  Prrsl)y- 
tcriiiii,  ( 'iinilti'rl.'inil  u!i(l  Soiitlii'iii  ;  Congrcniitionalist ; 
l?ii[>ti.st  ;  ^Ictliodist  lOpiscopal  ;  WeMlcyuii  ;  Dutcli 
Uefoiiiicd  ;  Society  of  Kricuds  ;  Amcii  an  ['niiuriun  ; 
IJu.^so-dreck  ;  and  iJoiiiaii  of  diU'creiit  orders.  At 
ihis  lime  I  do  iioL  think  there  were  any  llritisli 
Xonc'oiiforniists. 

I  be,nan  with  tlie  Japanese  morning  service  in  tlie 
Clmreh  Missioi  ly  Society's  (;iinreh  at  Tsnkiji.  The 
eongreuation  amounted  to  ahoiit  sixty  adidts,  and  tiio 
sermon  was  preached  by  a  yoiiiiu  (;atechist  who  struck 
me  as  being  well  satistie(l  with  himself.  This,  how- 
ever, ran  hardly  be  ciIKmI  a  mission  chtu'ch,  as  the 
native;  congregatii»n  bear  the  whole  expense  and 
maintain  the  catechist.  1  afterwards  attended 
lOnolish  service  at  the  Amerieun  cathedrah  As  we 
entered  the  buildiie^  we  met  the  Ja])anese  congre- 
gation just  streaming  out.  I  was  introduced  to  the 
veneralile  l^ishop  Williams,  who  had  just  resigned 
his  see,  a  nleasinu'  old  man  with  humility  and  self- 
sacrifice  stamped  in  every  feature  and  action.  He 
(!ertainlv  was  no  lordly  prelate.  I'rayers  were  read 
bv  a  vounu'  dei'LiN'man.  who  had  been  in  J'jnt>'Iand 
with  the  Cowley  Fathers.  It  is  a  noble  church, 
cruciform,  with  aisles,  lofty  and  light,  and  thoroughly 
Protestant  in  all  its  arrangements,  perhaps  more  so 
than  in  its  person )icl,  and  serves  all  the  English- 
.spcaking  people  in  the  concession. 

h^  two  o'clock  I  went  to  the  Church  Missionary 
Socii  ly's  Japanese  Sunday  sejiool,  where  the  children 
repeated    Hebrews    xi.,    which    of    course    formed   a 


YUKOn  NMA    ANI>    TOKIO 


75 


•iipitiil  toxt  for  '  >1.1  Tcsliimctit  f'utechisiiijLr.     At  threo 
I. 'clock  lu'tian   another   Jiipiincsi!  scrvitc.  at    uliidi    I 
ilitl  nor  stav  lon<i,  lint  went  in  tin;  (ivciiiii-^  for  a  lon</ 
walk  wiili  Mr.  Williams  to  visit  some  of  Ii'h  proadiin*,' 
places  in  the  poorest  parts  of  this  vast  city.     He  has 
Iniu  in  all,  some  of  them  miles  apart.     The  lirst  wo 
visited    opens    on   a   narrow   street,  its   frcmt   being 
simplv    paper    shntters,   which,    when    pushed    hack, 
open  the  whole  room  on   to   the  street.     It  is  nsed 
as   a   ra'jued    sdiixd   all    the  week,  and  as  a  Sunday 
,m1i(.(»1,   and   in  it  are   held  (-..ntinued  preachings  on 
Snndav   and   weekday   ('veiiings ;  exhortations,  short 
..r  lone-  (for  the  .Japanese  arc  patient  listeners),  being 
•nven  by  on-'  nativ(!   alttr  another      It  has  benches 
for   about  sixty    children.      The   farther   half  of   the 
room   is   a   raist  d   <hiis,  covered   with   tine  Japanese 
matting,  and  has  a  table  in  front.     The  few  women 
|)rcsent  sat  on  the  matting.     Sunchiy  school  was  just 
over  when  we  ariived.      A  hymn  was  given  out  and 
started  in  front  of  the  room.     This  soon  drew  a  crowd, 
and  the  preaching  began.      The  people  looked  very 
attentive,   the  room   quickly   tilled,  and   hardly  any 
went  away  as  long  as  we  were  there.     After  another 
hymn  a  second  preacher  stood  up,  very  Huent  and 
energetic,  his   language  to  me  all  unknown,  though, 
as  1  afterwards  found,  I  was  used  as  an  object-lesson, 
which  explained  some  broad  grins  turned  towards  me 
once  or   twice.     We   then  walked   on   for  a  mile   to 
another  similar  preaching  place,  where  we  found  a 
very  earnest  catechist  addressing   about  a  score  of 
men,  who  seemed  to  hang  on  his  words.     After  him 


I*     *ji 


J. 


j  ml 


1,1 


ti 


76 


RAMBLES    IN    JAPAN 


came  forward  a  well-dressed  native  gentleman,  who 
spoke,  lUhle  in  liaiid,  ior  iieai'ly  half  an  hour,  lie  is 
a  well-to-do  business  man  and  an  earnest  C-hristian, 
who  retxidarly  preaehes  on  Sunday.  After  an  hour's 
walk  we  <jjot  home  at  past  ten  o'clock,  I  having 
listened  in  whole  or  part  to  six  Japanese  sermons 
ill  one  day. 

I  afterwards  had  o})})ortunities  of  seeing  the  work 
of  Bishop  .Bi<'kersteth's  mission  in  the  Shiba  district. 
( >f  course  his  stuff  is  much  larger  and  more  concen- 
trated than  that  of  any  other  mission  in  Tokio,  except 
perhaps  the  American  Episcopal.  He  had  li\ijig  with 
him  in  his  house,  known  as  St.  Andrew's,  five  young 
university  (']er<j;\inen,  who  devote  their  enercfies  to 
educational  and  evangelistic  work,  the  most  impor- 
tant part  of  which  is  a  l)ivinity  School,  where  young 
natives  are  trained  for  the  ministry.  There  are  large 
classes  held  in  tlu;  evening,  which  attract  many  besides 
the  divinity  students,  and  so  outsiders  and  non- 
rhristians  are  won.  The  missionaries  certainly  work 
very  hard  and  /.c;ilously,  and  the  result  is  seen  in 
their  converts.  Close  to  the  house  is  a  pretty  little 
'•liurcli,  in  which  there  are  many  services  throughout 
tlu;  da\',  of  what  aj)peared  to  an  old-fashioned  English 
Churchman  an  extreme  type.  1  enjoyed  many  of  the 
short  services,  though  I  could  not  but  regret  that 
such  Romish  names  as  Sext  and  Compline  were  given 
to  the  two  I'higlish  daily  services,  in  which  the  prayers 
and  all  else  were  good  and  scriptural. 

A  few  h  11  lid  red  yards  from  St.  Andrew's  and  its 
little  group  of  buildings  is  St.  Hilda's,  pictures(jucly 


I 


YOKOHAMA    AND    TOKIO 


77 


situaterl  on  the  side  of  a  be.iutifully  wooded  little 
ravine,  the  home  of  an  ]^]nglish  sisterhood  which  has 
been  established  there  by  l^ishop  Bickersteth,  and 
where  much  work  is  going  on.  Especially  are  there 
many  (;l;isses  for  girls,  all  of  good  social  position. 
Though  by  far  the  greater  number  of  them  are  non- 
(Jhristians,  yet  all  have  religious  teaching,  and  under 
it  some  ha\  e  become  Christians.  Attached  to  the 
school,  but  separated  by  a  part  of  the  garden,  was  a 
hospital  for  the  poor,  of  twenty  beds,  beautifully 
ordered,  and  no  lack  of  space  and  air,  and  under  the 
management  of  a  very  clever  and  capable  nurse.  This 
hospital,  1  am  sorry  to  learn,  has  lately  been  aban- 
doned, owing  to  a  ditticulty  about  the  lease.  But 
we  must  remember  that  in  Japan,  with  its  medical 
schools  and  educated  surgeons,  there  is  not  the 
demand  for  Medical  Missions  that  exists  in  other 
Oriental  countries. 

During  our  stay  at  Tokio  we  had  occasion  to 
revisit  Yokohama  on  business,  and  Vv'cre  fortunate 
enough  to  see  in  harbour  there  a  finer  fleet  of  men- 
of-war  tiian  can  often  be  seen  out  of  the  Medi- 
terranean. Not  only  was  the  Japanese  fleet  mustered 
there,  several  of  them  first-class  warships,  looking  as 
trim  and  smart  as  any  English  man-of-war,  but  there 
were  also  riding  at  anchor  a  German  frigate,  a  French 
frigate,  a  United  >States  gunboat,  and  three  English 
corvettes,  with  a  Russian  close  behind  tlicm.  It  is 
remarked  that  an  English  man-of-war  is  never  seen 
in  these  sea.-  without  a  Russian  in  her  train.  Of 
all  the  five  nationalities  whose  flag  was  shown,  the 


'8 


RAMBLES   IN    JAPAN 


Japaiie.se  were  by  i^o  means  the  leasi  smart  in 
a|)])carance,  though  they  certainly  faih'd  in  rowing 
with  Ihr  neatness  that  marked  our  gigs.  The  Russian 
looked  verv  shaMiv.  and  eei'tainly  seemed  wanting  in 
smartness  and  cleanliness.  l)esi(U>s  these,  there  were 
manv  mail  liners  and  several  magnitiecnt  Ameriean 
elipperv,  the  iiist  1  had  seen  in  these  seas.  It  was 
ditlicult  t(»  realise,  as  we  looked  at  this  fU'(>t  of  many 
nations,  that  we  were  in  a  roadstead  unknown  to 
name  or  fame  five-and-tweiity  years  ago. 

Aftei'  enjoying  our  row  amongst  the  shipping, 
we  found  not  a  h'ss  strange  contrast  with  the  past 
on  shoiv  It  was  a  gala  day  at  Yokohama,  and  ilags 
were  \\\\\\'X  in  all  dire(  lions,  for  the  annual  races 
were  hem-  held  on  the  IMutl',  and  the  TMikado  had 
e(jme  down  expres.-^ly  to  see  this  I'mglish  spoi't.  Oh, 
the  deseent  in  'Mie  generation,  IVom  the  otl'spring  of 
the;  o-ods  ensl.rined  in  mvsterv  amidst  the  enchanted 
<»Hrdensof  Kioto,  to  the  spruce  ucntleman  in  lMH'oi)ean 
costume,  diiving  in  his  harouchc  to  witness  an  J'^nglish 
liorse  race  I 


■M     L 


M 


I 


f  I! 


CHAPTER    III 


A     VISIT     TO      NIKKO 


Our  first  expcMlitioii  into  the  interior  from  Tokio  was 
to  Nikko,  nearly  a  liuiulred  niik's  nortli  of  the  capital. 
Nikko,  which  may  he  compared  to  the  Oxford  and 
Canterbury  of  the  country  combined,  is,  according  to 
the  firm  belief  of  every  Japanese,  the  most  beautiful 
place  in  the  world.  They  have  a  familiar  proverb, 
'No  one  can  say  Kekko.  i.e.  splendid,  till  you  have 
been  to  Nikko,'  and  1  am  almost  inclined  to  a^ree 
with  them.  Even  before  the  introduction  of  railways, 
and  when  the  joui-ney  could  only  be  })erfornied  by 
the  tedious  and  fatiguing  jinriksha  conveyance,  no 
traveller  who  liad  the  time  at  his  command  neglected 
to  visit  Nikko.  Now  it  is  as  easy  as  any  journey  in 
r^ingland.  We  proceed  by  the  great  arterial  railway 
of  Japan  as  far  as  I  isu-no-]\Iiyu,  whence  a  branch 
line,  thirty  miles  in  length,  deposits  us  within  two 
miles  of  the  little  town.  In  this  journey  for  the  first, 
but  not  for  the  last,  time  we  felt  the  luxury  of  oui' 
extensive  passport,  by  which  we  avoided  the  ii'ritat- 
ing  necessity  of  making  repeated  applicatit)ns  to 
the  central  authorities  at  Tokio,  stating  beforehand 
the  exact  route  proposed  to  be  taken,  the  object  of  the 
journey,  and  the  precise  time  to  be  occupied.  The 
respect  this  passport  commanded  fnmi  the  ubiquitous 

G 


n  1 


82 


RAMBLKS    IN    JAPAN 


fti  1 


.]• 


m  ■  1 1 


little   policcnum  was  apt  to  oiiLnnider  a  triumphiiiit 
feeling  of  siipei'ioi-ity  over  ordinary  mortals. 

Our  second-class   caiiia.uv  was  cloan  and  airy,  the 
compartnioiits    ojxniinu    info    one   another,   and   pas- 
.seii«'crs    ortcn    chaimiii'i    iIh'I!'    scats.       Uur    fellow- 
travellers    appeared    to   l.e    all    lliorongli    gentlefolk, 
several   of  tli.'in   speaking   K.i-lisli.  and   eager  to  ail 
tlieir  knowledge.      We   foidd    not   but    lie  amused  at 
the  solitary  instance  of  superior  exclusiveness  whieli 
was  exhibited   by   a    very    smart    ea\aliy    ollicer,  no 
doubt  a  Japanese   representative  of    'the  Tenth'    ot 
former    days.     More   than   one  passenger,   who   evi- 
dently  recognised  that  my  daughter  was  engaged  in 
missionary    work,    asked    (pu'stions   on    liie    subject; 
;,ud    one    especially    seemed    greatly    interested,    ex- 
(■li;nme<l  cards  wiih   her,  and  promised  us  a  vi^it  at 
the  Nikko  Jiotel   where  we  intended   to   stay.      The 
pace  of  the  train  liappil\-  was  not  that  of  an  English 
express,  so  that  \\\\  were  t'nabhHl  to  enjoy  the  ever- 
vai'\in'j   landscape.      Sometimes    we    passed    through 
rice  llats,  more  often  along  gentle  slopes  dotted  with 
picturesque  villages  ;  amongst  th»Mn  a  long  straggling 
village  entireU-  neeupied  by  ilorists,  wdio  supply  the 
Tokio  market  ;  whose  gaidens  and   nurseries,  bright 
and    prrtiN-,    set    ojf   the    landscape   with    their   rich 
borders   of    varying   colours.      We   generally    had   in 
siuht  the  old   great  iiortliei'ii   road,  one  of  th(>  linest 
in  the  i-mpire.   iiiK'd    with    pines,   erxplomeiias.   and 

other  trees. 

From  Utsu-noMiva   wheie  we  changed  trains,  the 
line  was  generally  a  steep  ascent.      In  the  last  tifteen 


A   VISIT   TO    NIKKO 


83 


inilrs  wo  rose  l.TaO  feet,  ami  liml  a  ina^nificcnt 
view  of  the  iiinuiitaii  mass  at  the  roots  of  which 
nestles  Xikko.  The  train  crept  up  parallel  with  a 
ma<iiiifi(M  lit  avoniie  of  ii-iirantic  ca-vptoniorias,  which 
for  tw(!iity-tivo  miles  shade  the  ancient  road  l)y 
which  the  Sho-'Uiis  annually  visited  the  temples 
of  Nikko.  These  trees  and  those  of  the  various 
minor  avenues  aliout  the  temples  are  amongst  the 
finest  specimens  of  forestry  in  the  world,  averaging 
a  hundrcMl  I'eet  in  height,  many  of  tliera  more,  and 
some  five  or  six  feet  in  diameter  at  six  feet  from 
the  ground.  Allhough  of  such  great  size,  they  are, 
as  our  illustration  shows,  planted  very  close  together, 
and  form  to  the  eye  a  mighty  wall  of  d.-irk  green, 
through  wliich  not  a  ray  of  light  penetrates,  ex- 
cepting where  here  and  there  some  storm  has  over- 
thrown one  of  these  forest  giants.  We  passed 
throu'di  manv  smaller  woods  of  deciduous  trees, 
brightened  hy  the  conspicuous  bloom  of  two  species 
of  red  azaleas  and  of  three  kinds  of  P'/rns  jdjxmicd, 
one  of  -'hich,  whi(!h  bears  the  largest  flower,  runs 
along  tiic  .i  )und  after  the  manner  of  the  whortle- 
berrv.  1  was  struck  here,  as  1  repeatedly  was 
afterwards,  by  tle^  wonder^id  vai'iety  t»f  low  flowering 
shrubs  in  the  flora  of  Tanan.  and  tlie  compai'ative 
paucity  of  herbaceous  !'  ».;e!'s  or  annuals.  A  few 
miles  before  reaching  >. ikko,  a  second  of  these 
colossal  avenues  con  serges  towards  the  railway, 
shading  an  an<ient  sacred  road,  by  which  the  envoy 
of  the  Mikado  used  to  carry  his  offerings  to  the 
shrines  of  the  decease(l  heroes, 

G   2 


t; 


A 


84 


RAMHLKS    IN    .lAI'AN 


I 


i!'i 


From    tilt'   tcriniims    of    tho   railwuv    we    had    a 
jiiiiikslia    ridr  of    hk.ic   tliaii   two  miles  through  the 
vilhioe  to  our  iiali\('  hotel,  Nikko  hciiio-  a  long  hilly 
stri'ot,  liiK'.l  on  l.oth  si. Irs  with  irrcunhirly  stra,irglin«j 
houses.        Let    it    not    he     sii])posei|,    however,    tliat 
Nikko  lacks  a  lar-c  hotel,  laiilt  in   foreign  style  and 
with  all    the  usual    accomiianinients.      W  i',   however, 
wisely  determined   to  go  to  a  native  hotel,  and  sub- 
sequent experience  confirmed  the  eorrectuess  of  our 
choice.     After  passing  through  the  village  we  reached 
ii  rocky  ravine  spanned  hy  two  bridges  side  hy  side: 
a    'v.ouiita'ii    torrent,    now    nnlky    from    the    melted 
snow,  dashed   among>l    the    hoidders  at  the  bottom, 
and  the  sides  were   garnished    with   shrubs  of  many 
kinds,  springing  from  every  fissure  in  the  elill's.     We 
crossed  by  the  lower  bridge.      Th(>  other,  a  few  yards 
above,    is    an    ingenious    wooden    structure    painted 
bright  re<l,  and   forms  a  graceful  elliptic  curve.      It 
is  supi)orted   by   massive   stone  piers  iixed  into  the 
clilfs  ludow,  and   its   bright   colour   forms  a   striking 
contrast  to  the  deep  green  of  the   tall  cryptomerias 
which    overiiang    it    on    either    side.      It    is    near    a 
hundred    feet    long,   and    was   built    more   than    two 
hundred  and  lifty  years  ago,  and  we  were  told  that 
sui'h  are  th(>    preservative  (|ualitics  of  the  paint,  or 
rather  red  lacquer,  with  which  it  is  covered,  that  it 
has  never  re(|uire(l  repair  since  its  erection.      A  tall 
frate  ench)ses  it  at  either  end,  and  it  is  only  opened 
twice  in  the  year  for  the  pa.s.sage  of  pilgrims  visiting 
the  shrine.      It  was   formerlv  closed  to  all  excepting 
the  Shogun  when  he  came  to  worship. 


A    VISIT    lO    NIKKO 


85 


ItH  .snnftity  arises  fmin  its  stundin,!:;  on  the  spot 
whore  Shodo  Shoniii,  a  inylliical  .lapunese  saint,  is 
said  to  have  crossed  the  river  in  the  year  A.D.  7f;2. 
J  lis  st(»rv  is  full  of  stranue,  weird  Icuonds,  of  wliieh 


KniPOES  NEAK   NIKKO. 
(■/•/ic  Jiinre  dislunt  is  ii'  hj  nptncd  twice  in  the  ijtarj'nr  the  pnswge  nf  ii'hjrims!.^ 

the  one  connected  witli  tliis  hrid.ti'o  is  a  sample. 
Shodo  is  said  t(»  have  l»een  directe<l  in  a  dream  to 
ascend  a  ccrfiiin  mountain.  l»ut  when  he  arri\-ed  ;it 
this   spot   he    found    his    [)rogress    arrested    by    this 


8(5 


RAMBLES   IN   JAl'AN 


\>, 


iinpiissul  <^  goi'^'^-  I'.illiiii  <tn  lii.s  knees  find  praying 
for  help,  Ji  divine  heinu  of  uiuantic  size  i\ung  ucruHH 
I  he  river  two  green  and  l)lu  snakes,  which  formed 
in  an  instant  a  bridge  of  raiid)()W  shape  sptinuing 
the  ravine.  The  moment  the  saint  liad  (trossed,  the 
iiod  and  the  snaiie-l)ridi'e  \anished.  Sh"do  hon 
settled  at  this  spot  and  erected  a  hut,  which  was  luc 
forerunuei  of  the  group  of  magnificent  temples  whicli 
arc  now  the  glory  of  Japan.  Bhodo  Shoniii  died  in 
817,  and  he  seems  to  have  bci-n  a  Shinto  devotee, 
who,  meeting  some  (Jhine-e  missionaries,  tinl>racefl 
tiic  Buddhi.st  faith,  or  rather  incorporated  it  itli 
his  hereditary  religion. 

Crossing  the  bridge,  we  turn  sliarp  round  t<»  the 
left,  up  a  gentle  a.scent  tianked  on  either  side  l)y 
little  villas  ensconced  in  their  ganh'ns,  till  at  lengtli 
a  little  board  ])rojecting  neatly  from  a  garden  hedge 
proclaims  in  ('liinese  and  I'jiiglish  ('hara(;ters  oui 
hotel,  first  patronised  by  j\lrs.  Bishop,  the  well- 
known  '/'.>neer  ladv.  A  tinv  stream  meanders 
through  \ni'.  tiny  garih'ii.  with  ste})piiig-stones, 
islands,  bridges,  and  <iuaintl\'  dwarfed  trees  and 
shrubs,  r'  trees  the  exact  models  of  tlu;  willow 
pattern  and  other  porcelain  devices.  On  a  broad 
stcp))ing-stone  in  front  of  the  verandali  ledge  of  the 
cardboard  hou.se  are  two  pairs  of  slippers  for  our 
use,  and  we  step  into  the  e.xipiisitely  (;lean,  fine 
matting,  soft  as  velvet,  which  t.npets  the  rooms, 
while  the  boards  of  the  \crai!'lab  are  polished  as  a 
dining-table.  Tlicic  arc  three  parlours  in  a  row,  all 
open,  for  the   sliding    pa[)er  walls  are    pushed    back 


HH^B 


A    \' 


ru    MKK(» 


87 


into  H  1'  t's>  r»i  i.ikcii  out  ill  ilu'  iliiytinie.  One  <»{ 
these  is  Diir  sitting-rouin.  But  as  to  the  furniture, 
-•veil  into  this  ex(iuisite  gem  of  '.ipanese  house 
foreig!    ideas  liave  peuetratcd  N-ration  ot 

thf  weakness         Western  traveHer  ic  is  a   Htth) 

tal)le  rid  two  c-itie  rhairs  in  each  'in,  for  all  aic 
furnished  pre*  isely  alike.  There  is  also  a  tiny  side- 
taltle,  and  on  each  tahle  is  a  vase  of  lovely  flowers, 
and  the  sides  of  eaeh  room  are  oeeii[iied  hy  cupboards 
with  sliding  paper  (hiors.  V>^  idnd  these  rooms  is 
a  similar  arrangement  of  o|Hn  verandah,  looking 
out  on  another  garden  of  d-  islands,  and 

bridges,  hut  hounded   hy    i  'litf  overhung,  as 

is  all  the  mountain-side,  with  i   trees,  and  down 

tli(!  cliffs  are  arranged  a  -  ^  of  bahy  cascades, 
which  fet'd  the  tiny  lakes  and  then  pass  under  the 
i  in  a  porcelain  channel  into  the  front  garden. 

'I,,  paper  sid 'S  of  the  rooms  are  hung  with  many 
kakemono,  depicting  very  cleverly  groups  of  birds 
or  s<cnerv.  Lac(|uered  and  varnished  stairs  lead  from 
ba<'k  and  front  verandahs  to  our  bedrooms,  having 
paper  partitions  which  are  thrown  lack  until  the 
evening.  The  dwelling  apartments  of  our  host  and 
his  familv  are  a  continuation  of  our  own,  and  are 
reached  by  the  same  veran(hdi,  the  kitchen,  which 
we  often  visited,  separating  them.  In  these  private 
rooms  we  found  the  sanv  ex(pnsite  matting  with 
which  the  guest-room  floors  were  covered,  but  no 
tables  and  chairs. 

Our    host,  to  whom   we  had   aheady   written   for 
apartments,  received  us  with  all  the  ceremony  and 


1*1 


m 


MICROCOPY    RESOLUTION    TEST    CHART 

ANSI  ond  ISO  TEST  CHART  No    2 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


i!i  3.2 


13  6 


1.4 


I  2.5 

12.2 

I  2.0 
1.8 

1.6 


A     APPLIED  IhMGE 


le-jS   East    Main    Street 

■?":l-.»sler,    Ne*    Yorl>         U609       USA 

48^  -  0300  "  Phone 

^88  -  5989  -  Fa» 


88 


RAJVIBLKS    IN    JAPAN 


jii' 


:  I 


li 


1' 


mi 


grace  of  a  Japi.iiesc  gentle. ;,aii,  showed  us  our  rooms 
upstairs    aud    douii,    though,    as    we    were    for   the 
present  the  only  guests,  we  eiijoy-d  the  run  of  the 
whole    house.      .Mr.     Kunaya     was    a    typical    host, 
making    us  feel  at  once   that  ^^•e  were   looked   uijon 
not  as  lodgers   l)y   paynu'ut,   hut    as    guests    of   the 
family.       Like    a    r.oniface    of    the    ohlen    time,    he 
accompanied  us  into  our  parlour,  sat  gracefully  on 
the  Hoor,  and   enteied   into  conversation,  recounted 
his  recollections  of  ]\Irs.  Bishop,  suggested    the    ex- 
cursions which   ought    not    to    be    omitted,  and  th<' 
number  of   hours  or    (h.ys  that  each  woul.l  occupy, 
and  actually  in.|Uired  whether  the  bt-nt  of  our  tastes 
were    anti(|uarian,    or    botanical,    or   for   scenerv    or 
sport.      With  his  hotel   he  c.mibined  a  small  farm, 
and  was  also  a  lay  clerk  in  the  great  Buddhist  temple 
liard  l)y.      Tie  volunteered  a  full  account  of  himself 
aud  his  family  :  but,  knowing  our  religious  opinions, 
he  took  eare  to  inform  us  that,  though  he  held  office 
in    the   temple,   f.r  which    he  was  remunerated,   he 
did  not  believe  much  in  Buddhism.     In  fact,  he  was, 
hke   many  of  his  countrymen,  more  agreeable  than 
reliable. 

After  chatting  some  time  be  reminded  us  that 
we  were  to  be  supplied  with  foreign  dinner,  and,  of 
('ourse,  professed  readiness  to  give  any  delicacy  from 
any  part  of  the  world.  Finally  it  was  decidJd  that 
we  should  have  fish  soup,  a  standing  Japanese  dish 
pigeons  and  pheasant,  with  Ja])anese  sponge-cake 
and  tea.  This  sponge-cake  is  a  curious  I'elic  of  the 
ancient   Spanish   connection.      It    is    known    by  the 


A    VISIT    lu    NIKKO 


89 


Japanese  as  ('astern,  i.<'.  rastillc  (the  .laj)aiiese 
always  substituting  'r'  for  '  ],'  which  is  wanting  in 
their  hmguage,  and  which  they  find  great  difiiculty 
in  pronouncing),  tlie  art  of  making  which  they  kvirnt 
from  the  Spanish  missionaries  three  lumdred  years 
ago.  On  my  demurring  to  the  pheasant  and  asking 
if  it  were  not  the  close  season,  our  host  clapped  his 
hands,  and  thus  sumuKmed  the  pretty  little  maiden, 
who  soon  reap])eared  with  a  beautiful  green  cock- 
pheasant,  W'hich  had  evidently  been  snared  and 
illegally  poached  in  anticipation  of  our  visit.  This 
bird,  known  as  Phasianus  versicolor,  is  in  form  and 
size  exactly  like  our  own,  but  its  plumage  a  brilliant 
glossy  green.  It  is  very  common  in  all  parts  of  the 
country  which  we  visitcil  ;  as  is  another  species 
with,  a  very  much  longer  and  broader  tail,  of  a 
rich  copper  colour,  powdered  with  white  spangles, 
known  as  the  cop[)('r  pheasant,  PJiasiaiius  sciiitillans. 

There  was  considerable  alarm  a  few  years  ago  lest 
these  pheasants  should  have  been  exterii  (ted  by 
the  denuiud  for  them  in  Paris,  and  I  am  afraid  in 
England  too,  for  the  decoraticm  of  ladies'  hats.  One 
merchant  at  Yokohama  told  me  that  he  had  in  one 
year  exported  thirty  thousand  copper-pheasant  skins. 
Fortunately,  the  plumage  of  the  hens  being  very 
modest,  they  were  not  in  demand,  and  in  three  or 
four  years  the  fashion  happily  passed  away,  though 
not  before  the  government  were  proposing  to  inter- 
fere to  arrest  the  destruction  of  tlie  greatest  ornament 
of  the  Japanese  woods. 

Having  thus  installed  ourselves,  we  set  out  to  take 


is 


\)0 


RAMBLKS    rx    JAl'AN 


a  cursory  suvwy   of  tlio  .K-iohl.uurh.KxI.     Rvtmcuur 
our  steps   towards  the  sacred  b.-id-e,  we  pass.-d  the 
foreign  hotel,  a  lar-e  unsi-litly  I,uildin-  in  Europeaii 
•style,   wlien  we  were   surpiis.'d    at    l»einLr    hailed   in 
English    l)y    old    friends   Ironi    Shanghai,'  whom  we 
never   expected    to   meet   here,  and  whom  we  were 
delighted  to  have  as  companions  in  our  sul.s..,|uent 
excursions.      Returning    to    our  home  at   sunset,  we 
found  our  paper  walls  all  closed  in  for  the  night,'and 
also,  what  1  had  not  i)ei'ceived  l)efore,  that  there  are 
double  walls,  the  outer  one  of  wood,  all   round  the 
verandah,  and  which    during    the    daytime    are    put 
away  in   cuplioards,  but   which  now  gave    the   house 
the   appearance   of  a    huge  wood.Mi  box.     11],>y  are 
certainly  useful,  not  only  for  warmth,  but  for  pri'vacy, 
as   the   little    boys   are    very  fond   of   watehinn-  the 
proceedings,  especially  of  foreigners,  by  wetting  the 
paper  walls  with  their  tongues  and  with  thrir  fingers 
making    peep-holes.      However,    the   weight    of  "^the 
whole    of    these    walls,    whether    wooden'   or    paper, 
should  be  reckoned  in  ounces  rather  than  i)ounds.     I 
could  almost  fancy  there  was  a  danger,  if  anx'thing 
caught  the  button  of  my  coat,  of  walking  away  with 
the  walls  of  the  house. 

The  inspection  of  the  gr.  of  the  temples  and 
-Mausoleum  of  lyeyasu  is  a  l^dl  .lay's  work.  This 
latter  is  perhaps  the  finest,  and  certainlv  the  most 
interesting  historically,  of  the  vast  group  of  sacred 
l)uildings  that  dot  the  lou  er  slopes  of  the  mountain 
Nikko  San.  From  the  great  repute  for  sanctity  of 
Nikko,  it  was  chosen  as  the  burial-place  of  lyevasu,  in 


&*? .-- 


A   VISIT   TO   NIKKO 


91 


the  year  1617.  This  lyeyasu  was  one  of  the  greatest 
rulers  and  generals  Japan  has  seen,  and  the  founder 
of  the  8hogun  dynasty  of  Tokugawa,  wliidi  continued 
in  unbroken  succession  the  practical  rulers  of  the 
country  until  the  revolution  of  18G8,  when  the  old 
feudal  system  of  the  rule  of  the  Dainiios  under  the 
Shogun  or  ^layor  of  the  Palace  was  entirely  abolished, 
and  the  .Mikado,  who  had  been  for  many  centuries  a 
luGVQ  faineant  monarch,  like  the  later  iMerovingians  of 
France,  emerged  from  his  sacred  obscurity  and  became 
the  actual  monarch  of  the  country;  and  in  a  few 
years  established  a  constitutional  government. 

As  Shogun,  lycyasu  was  a  simple  usurper.     Born 
in   1542,  he    had    been  a  military  ofiicer   under  the 
Hhogun  Hideyoshi,  for  some  time  the  patron  and  pro- 
tector of  the  Christians.     On  the  death  of  Hideyoshi, 
lyeyasu  rebelled  against  his  youthful  son,  and,  after  a 
struggle  lasting  several  years,  was  finally  recognised 
as    ruler.       lie     immediately    devoted     himself    to 
breaking    uj)  the  power  of   tlie  Daimios,  compelling 
them,  as  feudal  inferiors,  to  do  homage    to  himself, 
whilst  he  surrounded  the  court  of  the  Mikado  with 
his  own  troops,  and  in  fact  confined  him  in  a  gilded 
prison.       However  unscrupulous  may  have  been  his 
methods,  Japan    owes    to    him    the    enjo)'ment  of  a 
really  centralised  government.     He  kept  in  his  own 
hands  many  forts  throughout  the  country  which  had 
hitherto  been  held  by  the  Daimios  ;  he  made  great 
arterial  roads  through  the  whole  country  ;  established 
a  postal    system;    and  enacted   laws,  which  were  to 
supersede   the  capi'icious  and  arbitrary  internal  rule 


u 


w 


02 


RAMHI.KS    IN    JAPAN 


of  tlir  Dniiiiios  on  ihcir  estates.  He  was,  for  his 
age,  a  really  scimlilii'  man.  and  a  gicat  patron  of 
literature.  In  fad,  his  rule  has  hecn  called  the 
lieiiaissance  epoch  of  .lapun.  I  hit,  on  the  (jther 
hand,  he  was  the  (ii'st  to  connnfnice  the  hloody 
porsecntioii  of  the  ( 'hi'istiaiis,  which  ench'd  a  few  years 
alter  hi.^  death  in  the  extermination  of  Christianity. 

I  nder  his  dncetion  the  Daimios  were  icipiiivd  to 
<'onipel  all  Chiistians  to  renounc"    their   faith.     This 
they  resisted    even  to    Khnnl      At    length  they  were 
foreed    to   take   n[)  arms,  and   raised   the  standard  of 
reliellion  for   the  hrst   time   in  Japanese  history,  for 
hitlu'rto    their   wars    had   heen    rather   faction   fiohts 
ihan    rehellions.      The  strn,u<i,le  continued  for  several 
years,    from     1(106    to     l(;i.5.       For    some    time    the 
Christians    maintained    their    independence,  until    in 
Kill    lyeyasu    is    said    to    luive    discovered    a    plot 
manipulated  by  the  Spanish  friars  for  rcducin<T  the 
country  to  a  condition  of  suhjection  to  Spain  under 
a  Christian  viceroy.     From  that  tinu;  all  foreigners 
were  expelled    and    the  native  Christians    ruthlesslv 
massacred.     The  capture  of  Osaka  in  1015  was  fatal 
to  all  hopes  of  sncci-ss  hy  the  Christian  party.     The 
slaughter  continued  for  several  days,  and  the  Jesuit 
historians  assert  that   100,000  men  perislicd  in  this 
war.     The  struggle,  howe\-er,  continued  foi'  more  than 
twenty  years  after    lyeyasu's  death,  and  did  not  end 
until  1037,  when  the  castle  of  Shimalmra  was  taken, 
and  37,000   Christians  massacred,   and  thousands  of 
others   hurled  down  the  rocks  previously  mentioned 
in  the  harbour  of  Xauaski. 


A    VISIT   TO    NIKKO 


93 


But  enough  of  this  digreHsion,  for  wo  have  long 
since  uiTived  ni  lyeyusu's  mausoleum.      It  is,  like  nil 
the  others,  a  large  cn.-losure  surrounded  by,  and  filled 
with,  cryptomerias  ami  otlior  lai-gv  tiws,  vvitli  stately 
avenues  m..nnting  up  the  steep  hills  on  wliich  they 
are  placed.      The  tem])ic  is  in  no  case  a  single  build- 
lug,  hut  a  group  of  sonm   Iweiity  temples,  and  this 
one   has  a  gorgeous  red  pagoda  in   the  wood  outside, 
towerinn'  among  the  trees  wit!.      jnirable  effect.     On 
the    outskirts    are    some    fine    houses    and    gardens 
fringing  the   avenue,  into   one  of  whicji  we  turned, 
having   requested    at    the    porter's    lodge    'that   we 
nught  be  allowed  liiimbly  to  raise  our  eyes  to  the 
landscape.'     After  noticing  this  interesting  specimen 
of  native  horticulture,  we  turned  back  to  the  avenue, 
oil  the  way  up  wliidi  are  a  series  of  lych-gate  roofs 
with    b(.ards    under    them   containing   the  names  of 
eontri!)utors  to  the  preservation  fund  of  the  temples, 
among   them    a    board    in    Knglish,    explaining    the 
appeal.      Another  in  .lai)anese  contained  a  record  of 
the  donations  of  Knglish  and  American  visitors. 

Within  the  enclosure  were  all  the  characteristic 
features  whicli  we  liad  noticed  in  tlie  temples  of 
Shiba,  but  on  a  much  lai'ger  scale— colossal  bronze 
lamps,  bells,  one  of  them  I'ivalling  the  Ruasian 
eastings;  great  monolith  pillars,  etc.,  the  gifts  of 
Corean,  Loochoo,  and  other  foreign  monarchs.  This 
was  not  the  only  place  in  Avhi.-h  we  found  historic 
evidence  of  the  .daims  of  Japan  to  some  kind  of 
recognition  by  Corea. 

Not  the  least  interesting  of  the  various  structures 


ill 


94 


RAMBLKS   IN   JAPAN 


were  three  lourr  juills  ;i(lj()iiiiiig  oadi  other,  in  which 
are  exhibited  tlie  possessions,  elotliiiio-,  jirniour, 
furniture,  and  other  articles  used  by  lyeyasu  in  his 
lifetime.  These  are  silent  "^tnesses  of  tlic  intelli- 
gence and  culture  of  tlie  Ja])an  of  three;  hundred 
years  ai^o,  and  show  how  much  was  dm)  to  the 
Spanish  fatiiers.  Among-  them  I  was  niu(;]i  struck 
by  an  orrery,  evidently  of  European  make,  and 
various  astronomical  instruments,  and  others,  which 
well  illustrate  the  practice  of  the  art  of  navigation 
before  the  invention  of  the  quadrant.  Our  guide, 
however,  considered  his  swords,  said  to  be  of  wonder- 
fully tempered  steel,  as  far  more  worth  our  study. 

Airanged  along  the  gallery  over  th(>  cabinets  in 
which  these  collections  were  kept,  was  a  series  of 
paintings  illustrating  falconry  as  carried  on  in  lye- 
yasu's  time,  foi-  he  was  evidently  a  sportsman  as  well 
as  a  warrior  and  philoso])her.  We  had  in  fact  an 
illustrated  histor\-  of  the  practice  of  the  gentle  art. 
The  similarity  of  the  hoods,  jesses,  and  other  falconer's 
gear,  with  those  in  use  in  Europe,  was  very  remark- 
able, as  wc  can  hardly  conceive  that  falconry  in  Japan 
was  derived  from  a  European  source.  At  the  same 
time  I  think  we  have  presumptive  evidence  that 
European  and  Japanese  liawking  have  been  derived 
from  a  common  original. 

Perhaps  I  may  be  allowed  to  sa>-  a  few  more  words 
on  this  subject,  as  falconry  is,  so  far  as  I  know,  the 
only  instance  in  historic  times  in  w^hich  a  European 
art  is  identical  in  all  its  methods  with  that  of  the 
Land  of  the  Rising  Sun.     Investigation  will  probably 


It 


f^ 


=^ 


^ 


i:^ 


JAPANESE   FALCONKR. 


i! 


ill  I 


l'***    i^- 


T      I 


A    Visn    To    NIKKO 


97 


show  that  Assyria  wan  tho  cradio  of  an  art  thai  spread 
Hiciice  throuirh  the  wIk.I.-  world,  cast  and  west.     Thr 
earliest  iiiomirnontal  rc<-..rd  of  fah-onry  is  a  scidptinv 
discovered   hy  Sir  Henry    l.ayard   at   Kh()rsal)ad,  re- 
presenting,^ a  falconer  with  a  hawk  on  his  wrist.     This 
is  standing  evidence  thai  hawking  was  practised  there 
at  least  as  early  as  JTou  H.c.      |5ut  Japanese  records 
carry  us  hack  further  still,  for  if  they  may  he  relied 
on,  falconry   was  practised   in   China    centuries   pre- 
viously.     A    Japanese    historian,    of    whose    work   a 
French   translation   has  heen  pid)lis]ied,   relates  that 
falcons  were  amongst  the  Chinese  pi'esents  made  to 
princes  in   the  time  of  th(,'  Ilia  Dynasty,  supposed  to 
have  eo.nnien.-ed  -•_>().,  ,,,.      We  know'from  classical 
authors  that    (aleonry  was  practised  in   Central  Asia, 
I'i'rsia,  and  India  about  400  lu: 

'inhere  is  no  inconsiderahle  literature  devoted  to  the 
art  in  the  Jai)anese  language.    No  fewer  than  fourteen 
treatises  on  the  subject  are  enumerated  l)y  Ilarting 
in  his   liihlioflwm  Acdj>ifran)i,  many  of   them  long- 
anterior  to  the  visits  of  the  Spaniai'ds.     Amongst  the 
niinutitie  of  the   art,   we  may  mention   that,   whilst 
luiropean  falconers  re[)air  broken  featheis  by  what  is 
•  ailed  an  imping  needle,  the  Japanese  repair  a  broken 
tail-feather  by  splicing  on  a  new  one  with    lacquer 
varnish.     The  Japanese  writers  on  falconry  mention 
the  goshawk,   the  peregrine,  the  sparr(,w-hawk,  the 
o.>  piey,  which  they  call  the  pike-catching  hawk,  the 
gier-falcon,  which  they  obtain  from  Kamschatka,'and, 
last    and    least,    the    grey    shrike,   whicl!    fhe.v    have 
succeeded  in  training  to  catch  small  birds. 


> 


08 


RAMTU,i:s    IN    .lAI'A.V 


liii 


1 1 


ifi.- 


lliiwkin.t:.  liowrvcr,  siiuH'  tlit*  itvuIiiI  kmi 
IfCfjonio  very  iimk  h  ,1  ihiiiLr  of  the.  past,  himI  is  nlimist 
oxHnct  witli  the  (till  fciKlal  sysicm,  iimstiiufli  ns  the  new 
laws  ol'  ti-('sj)a.s>,  which  arc  M'vy  tslrirt,  jhci  Imh'  ;iii\', 
t'Xrc|iliii!j;  the  few  who  still  posscsH  ^rcat  t'slatcs,  i'loiii 
iiidiilnini;  ill  this  pastime.  Aiinthcr  rcasdii  of  it- 
ilccaih'iirc  is  prolialily  l  Im'  Lircat,  iiicrrnsc  in  ciili  i\  ai  ion. 
I''r<iin  the  series  of  pictures  at  Nikko  we  may  inter 
lliat  till!  goshawk  was  the  favourite  hiid  of  Ivevasii. 
f(»r  oiily  one  of  them  e.\hil)itc<l  the  j)ro\\css  ol'  the 
peregrine.  .Mr.  Halting  (to  wlio.-e  kimliu'ss  I  am 
indeltted  for  permission  to  copy  the  illustration* 
infers,  t'lom  the  iilmtit}'  in  almost  cNcry  [loint  (»f  the 
praetic(M)f  the  falconns  of  the  East  aii<l  \\'e>l,  that 
the  laleoiiry  oJ'  the  w  liolc  World  oriLiiiialed  in  India, 
and  was  introduced  long  helnre  the  historic  pciiod. 
liy  the  Indo-tiermaiiie,  race,  from  the  plains  of 
llindustaii. 

But  leaving  the  memorials  and  ])icture  gallery  of 
lyi'\asu,  we  ohserveil  at  the  entrance  two  ciirious|\- 
carved  figures  of  elephants,  the  kno\vle(|ge  of  which 
was  pn)l)al)ly  hrcaight  with  Buddhism.  Close  hv  is  a 
magnitieont  saered  [»ine-tree,  .said  to  have  heeii  carried 
about  by  lycyasu  in  his  |)alani|uin,  when  it  was  still 
small  enough  to  be  in  a  llower-i)ot.  Alongside  ol 
this  is  the  stable  of  Buddha,  o})en  in  front,  with  an 
unfortunate  piebald  sacred  horse  ready  for  him  to 
ride  when  he  returns  to  earth.  The  poor  animal 
stands,  tied  up  and  eaj»arisoned,  with  long  rows  of 
saucers  full  of  beans  just  out  of  his  reach,  for  each  ol 
which  the  devout  pay  live  rin  {/.>'.  one  farthing)  to 


A    VI.SIT   TO    NIKKo 


•)1) 


,uivc  tlif  i,iiiiali,-,r.l  .-^tt'cil.    \i>  -I II  told  lis.  however 

tlinl  .somctinu'H  it  is  f.ikni  ,,iii  lor  t-xeroisr.  h 
iviiiiiids  oiM'  of  t|i(  sacivd  Lull  of  th..  Knviitiaiis.  In 
.•iiiotliiT  lciii|.l..  tho  iiiiii>  |M.irnn,i  (sdcivd  dunci'rt, 
solemn  and  niajesflc.  and  aiv  o|ad  to  iv.viv,.  a  few 
sell  (hairpi'iiiiics). 

Oiif  could  spend  hours  in  (idniiriii'i  the  liul.l  desi.rns 
'»f  .•iniiiials  and  ihr   nr,.|,.s.|u.-  eai'vin-s  wliirh   i'lni.di 
•'II  'I"'  i''iii|.les  liuth  wiihiii  and  without,  in  hcwilder- 
iii.u-   «Mid'usioii.    ill  which  dijiM-ons,   unicorns,   nrili'ons 
■•iiid  [.h. mixes  of  siraiiir,,  devices,  enough  to  j)er[»lox 
tlie  most  skilled  heraldic  student,  are  ininclcd   with 
lifelike  ropveseiitat ions  of  li, MIS.  ..aitj...  monkeys,  foxes, 
.•iii.l  other   creatures  of   evry-dfiy    life.      In  another 
ImiMin-    e.jually  lavish  in  its  ornamental  ion  is  the 
great  lil.raryof  iJuddhist  theological  works.     A  Might 
of  steps  h'ads  to  tli(!  next  group  of  l.'i.i|;lcs.      One  ,,f 
the  poculiarities  of  Nikko  is  that   all  these  groups  of 
hiiildings  ai(!  on  terraces  us  it  were,  raised  one  above 
another,  and  connected  by  wi.le   Higlits  of  steps  with 
massive  stone  balustrades.     On  the  next  platform  is 
a  collection  of  royal  gifts  ;  an<1  annaigst  the  colossal 
lamps,  bells,  aiul  stone  lions  is  a  great  brass  candela- 
brum of  Dur.-h  n;  ■nntaeture,  which  was  pointed  out 
as  the  feudal   tribute  paid  by   the  King  of  Holland, 
who,   they   tell  you,   was  one   ol"  the  vassals  of   the 
-Mikado.      But  it  would  be  monot(.nous    to  describe 
the  various  temples  and  courtyards,  or  rather  cloister 
garths  and  cathedral  closes,  which  would  repay  the 
artistic   c..nnoisseur    many    dajs    spent    in    careful 
examinuiion. 

H   2 


00 


RAMBLKS    IN    JAPAN 


It '  ^ 


;  3 


I! 


I 


ili 

, 

fit : 

: 

ii 

I 

jfii  : 

" 

■M 

■ 

H 

^Bi^ 

mm 

i 

mi 

I 

Mi 

■ 

L 

Wo  do  not  reach  the  tuiiih  of  1\ cyusu  till  we  are  at 
the  summit  of  the  .small  hill.  It  is  of  massive  bronze, 
shaped  like  a  small  pagoda,  Visitoi's  are  not  allowed 
to  enter  within  the  small  ench)siire,  althou_u;h  the 
whole  of  it  can  1)0  seen.  Vases  of  li(jwers  and  lighted 
tapers  are  continually  renewed  in  front  of  it. 

The  grouping  and  arrangement  of  these  temples 
suggested  a  good  idea  of  what  n  (ireek  /cinenos  must 
have  been,  such  as  those  so  familiar  at  Baalbec  and 
(>]sewhere,  although  these  occupy  mucb  greater  space. 
We  spent  two  or  three  days  in  visiting  the  other 
temple  groups,  which  are  all  worth  seeing.  One  large 
temple  is  called  the  ITall  of  Meditation.  It  is  quite 
empty,  save  for  one  semi-colossal  image  of  l)uddha, 
but  is  surrounded  l)v  a  very  wide  verandah,  where 
the  worshippers  walk  round  and  round  for  hours 
repeating  the  name  of  Buddha,  and  counting  the 
repetitions  on  their  rosaries.  In  all  these  temples 
tlie  enormous  wooden  roof,  carved  with  all  sorts  of 
figures  and  rich  in  gilt  and  paint,  is  the  most  striking 
feature.  The  wonderful  carved  work  and  lacquer 
furnishing  of  these  structures  occupy  })ages  and  pages 
of  the  guide-books,  and  are  interwoven  with  the 
history  of  Ja[)an  for  many  centuries  back.  It  is  the 
Valhalla  of  the  nation,  and  the  traveller  who  wishes 
to  be  inspired  with  the  spirit  of  old  Japan  must  make 
his  sojourn  at  Nikko,  and  not  at  T(jkio. 

Thouo'h  manv  thousand  natives  annnallv  visit 
Nikko  as  pilgrims,  yet  anumgst  all  the  crowds  which 
we  saw  there  seemed  to  be  very  little  worship  and  no 
enthusiasm.      They  stroll  quietly  about  like  sightseers 


I 


A    VISIT    TO    N1KK(» 


101 


ill  Durham  ('atlu'ilra!,  aud  drop  a  riii  (^'j  P''"")')  ^i^''*' 
and  there  into  a  box.  The  only  shrines  thai 
a[)pareiitly  created  devotion  \ver(>  those  of  the  (lod  o! 
Wealth,  re|)resented  by  a  fat  man  with  a  huge  sack- 
on  his  back',  sitting  on  two  great  sacks  of  rice,  and 
grinning.  Jle  gets  abundaiic(>  of  rin,  cantlles,  and 
prayers.  T  shoukl  explain  that  in  most  of  the  temples 
there  are  many  little  shrines  exactlx'  corres[)onding 
to  the  side  altars  of  Romish  worship,  which  are  (h>di- 
(uited  to  numerous  popular  or  lo(;al  deities,  evolved 
partly  from  distorted  tradititms  of  Shintoism,  and 
partly  from  the  many  incarnations  of  Buddha. 

Another  popular  deity  is  the  God  of  Strength,  who 
is  represented  with  enormous  arms  and  calves.  His 
shrine  was  heaped  with  offerings  of  pairs  of  tiny  clogs 
and  old  sandals,  and  his  devotees  pray  to  him  that 
their  '  U'cs  may  develop  muscles  as  strong  as  his. 
He  is  tue  popular  deity  of  the  jinriksha  men.  In  one 
very  rich  temple  three  coh)ssal  wooden  statues  were 
conspicuous,  painted  respectively  red,  green,  and  blue. 
The  green  monster  was  the  (^lod  of  Wind,  carrying 
the  winds,  like  i3v)lus,  in  a  bag.  The  God  of  Thunder 
was  red,  hurling  a  thunderbolt,  very  like  a  statue  ol 
Jupiter.  'J'he  third  figure  is,  I  believe,  a  representa- 
tion of  a  mythological  protector  of  Buddha.  This 
temple  struck  me  as  one  of  the  most  beautiful,  largely 
owing  to  the  effect  of  the  magnificent  cryptomerias 
and  noble  rhododendrons  gron[)ed  around  it. 

The  wonderful  temples  and  collection  of  Japanese 
art  are  not  the  only  attractions  of  Nikko.  For  any 
one  sound  in  wind  and  limb  it  is  an  admirable  centre 


11 


:1. 


102 


RAMBLES    IN    JAPAN 


i 


'\ 


for  excursions.  Tii  cveiy  direclioii  we  lound  \omy 
and  lovely  walks  up  the  valleys,  with  mountains 
towering  ahove,  their  summits  still  covered  with 
snow,  and  their  lower  slopes  i)aintcd  with  the  pink 
and  crimson  bhxmi  of  trees  of  various  kinds,  some 
of  tliein  unknown  to  me.  Turning  round  in  our 
scramltles,  we  loola-d  down  on  mountain  streams 
dashing  over  the  boulders,  while  the  ground  of  the 
open  forest  was  covered  with  tlie  bright  red  Hovvers 
of  the  creeping  P;irm  inpouu-a,  vari(Ml  by  the  sombre 
clusters  of  dog-violet.  We  could  scarcely  go  a  mile 
without  coming  across  waterfalls,  any  one  of  which 
would  have  made  the  i'ortune  of  a  German  or  a  Swiss 
pleasure  resort. 

A    very  interesting  but   not   long   expedition    is 
that  to  Kamman-ga-fuchi,  b\' a  path  up  the  river-side. 
Half  an  hour  fi'om  Xikko  by  the  roadside,  just  front- 
ing the  river,  was  tlic  most  cx(|uisite  little  miniature 
park  and  house   with   a   little   shrine,  all  in  perfect 
order  ;    in    every    respect   a    tyjm^al    Japanese  gem. 
Attached  to  it  was  a  tea-house,  tlie  landladv  of  which 
showed   us    about,    presented    us    with    bou.piets    of 
flowers,  and,   seeing   I   was    interested  in  her  horti- 
culture, with   true  national  court(>sy  took  me  round, 
giving  me  the  .Ia[Kinese  names  of  the  various  shrubs. 
This    was   all    done    without   any    expectation    of    a 
iUmceur,   which  when   oifered  was   waved  back  with 
the   expression  Do  itashimaslilfef   or  'What  have   I 
done  ? '  though  eventually  accepted. 

The    path    follow^s    along   for   some  distance    the 
wmding   course    of   the    stream,    till    we  arrived   at 


i« 


Urns 
o 


3  I 


m 


I      i 
I 


III! 


h'.f'     < 


¥L 


A    VISIT    TO    MKKO 


105 


iM 


O 


Kaimiiaii-u-a-fnclii.  whoro,  raiijj;('(l  on  tlic  otlior  siflo 
of  the  rivoi',  aic  a  loiii;'  row  of  iuiaues  of  liiiddlia. 
alioiit  n  liundiv.l  in  ninnlici'.  Notliint]!;  is  known 
aufliontical]}'  of  their  origin  or  nieaning,  ])nt  we  wore 
told  thai  it  is  i.npossihle  to  count  thcni  accnratcK-. 
and  that  however  often  the  feat  is  attempted,  the 
eonclusion  is  always  ditferent.  This  superstition  is 
not  peculiar  to  .lapan.  for  the  same  thinij;  is  said  of 
various  circles  of  Druidieal  stones  in  England. 

Although    without    a    history,    u    visit    to    these 
Buddhas.  and  the  lovely,  if  not  grand,  scenery,  amply 
repays  the  walk.      Not    the   least   interesting  to  me 
was  tlie   inti'oduetion  it  afforded  me  to  many  of  the 
native    birds    for    the    first    time.       The    Japanese 
ornithology    is   peculiarly  interesting    to    a   Biitish 
naturalist,  from  its  close  resemblance  to,  as  well  as 
its  marked   dilferenee  from,  our  Britisli   fauna.     The 
most  conspicuous    and    attractive  bird    in    this   walk 
was  the  Japanese  pied  wagtail  (very  much  largvr,  and 
with    the    black   and    white    in    its    plumage   more 
strikingly   contrasted   than  in   our  own),  which  con- 
tinually flitted  across  our  path,  or  ran  in  the  road  in 
front   of  us.      The  trees  and  shrubs  were  ceaselessly 
visited  by  little  tloeks  of  various   kinds  of  titmice, 
some  identieal   with,  and    others  very  close  to,   our 
own.      family   parties   of  the   schoolboy's   favourite, 
the    long-taile.l  or    bottle    tit,   were    seldom    absent 
from  view.      The  repres(>ntative  of  the  great  fit,  with 
exa(;tly  the  same  note   as  our  own,  the   marsh  and 
the  cole  were  everywhere  in   evidence  :  and  the  con- 
spicucnis  chestnut,  bhu-k,  and   white  titmouse  {/'aru.s 


I    i 


>i  a 


!! 


06 


K AMBLES    IN    .lAl'AN 


carius)  pcr'nliar  to  Japan,  and  its  luv(nirite  cage-bird, 
was  most  aliiindant  ot"  all. 

Leaving  what  1  call  the  glen  of  the  iJuddhas,  we 
mcjunted  the  liill  hy  a  not  too  steep  ascent  and 
visited  various  cascades,  whose  ([uaint  Japanese 
names  I  need  not  inflict  upon  my  readers,  but  whicii 
may  be  translated,  one  as  the  '  vermicelli  cascade,' 
another  as  the  '  mist  lalling.'  a  very  appropriate 
name;  and  another  as  the;  '))iIlow  casca«le,'  whv  so 
named  1  know  not.  All  these  have  a  tall  of  iVoni 
fifty  to  sixty  feet,  and  at  the  time  of  our  visit  weic 
unusually  tine,  owing  to  the  melted  snow.  We  were 
rather  too  early  for  the  botany,  but  there  were 
already  many  interesting  ferns  unfoldi  g  their  fronds, 
several  of  which,  especially  an  aspidium,  were  entirely 
new  to  me.  But  in  every  (h'ptartment  of  natui'al 
history,  the  birds,  ilie  butterflies,  the  fishes,  thebotanv. 
the  same  diliiculty  ai'ises.  E\-er\thing  bears  a  strong 
resend)lauce  to  the  fauna  and  flora  of  Europe,  and  yet 
almost  always  there  is  a  difference,  less  so  perhaps  in 
the  birds  than  in  anything  else.  That  laughing, 
screaming  jay  anumg  those  maples  overhead,  von 
would  say,  was  undoubtedly  our  own  jay  to  the 
minutest  particular,  and  yet  if  you  were  to  liandh' 
him,  he  is  different,  but  only  by  a  black  streak  from 
his  beak  to  his  eye,  where  our  jay  is  chestnut.  And 
so  the  bullfin(;h,  identical  at  first  sight  with  our  bird- 
fancier's  darling  and  gardener's  abomination,  voice, 
flight,  nest,  and  eggs  undistinguishable ;  but  we  shall 
always  find  the  native  of  Japan  with  a  ruddy  tinge 
on  the  back,  and  less  decisive  red  on  the  breast,  yet 


A    Vl.sIT   T(i    NlKKo 


10/ 


l)iilirinoh  all  flic  \v(>i'1<l  (.vcr.  And  so  with  tho 
Imttei'llics.  Tliuui^h  llio  i-liaiiU'tciistir  t'onns  of  Japan 
often  rival  tho  Indian  in  splendonr.  and  infinitcdy 
sui'pas.s  oiu'  own  in  Naricty,  these  do  not  ap]»eai'  till 
the  suninier  is  fnilher  advaiicL'd  :  Imt  our  raniMe  was 
enlivened  l»y  the  ho\eiinu:  of  I'aniiliar  aei[uaintanccs. 
especially  the  connnon  eahhuge  white  and  [)ale  clouded 
N'ellow.  These  two  species  are  identical  wihi  our 
own.  Along  with  these,  but  in  sparser  numbers, 
were  representatives  of  our  earl\-  spring  friends,  an 
orange  tip  and  a  l)rinistf)ne. 

Our  next  exjiedition  was  very  much  longer,  and 
was  one  of  the  most  charming  rambles  which  we 
enioN'ed  in  the  whole  countrv.  It  was  to  the  Lake 
of  Chusenji.  vVe  had  to  make  an  early  start,  for  it 
is  a  five  hours'  walk  and  a  steady  ascent  nearl}'  the 
whole  wav,  throuirh  wild  scrub  and  forest,  the  whole 
of  which  is  an  ini[)eria'  preserve  where  Nature  has 
full  sway  ;  though  I  fear  that  in  Japan,  as  in 
I'higland,  the  genus  poacher  exists  in  spite  of  r(na! 
and  imperial  edicts.  As  wc  left  the  road  uliich  foi'  a 
mile  or  two  we  had  traversed  yesterday,  and  entered 
a  pathway  up  the  hillside,  a  largo  notice  slab  attracted 
our  attention,  warning  the  visitor  that  the  killing 
or  snaring  of  living  things  in  any  manner  was  for- 
bidden by  im[)erial  command.  I  am  afraid  it  does 
not  speak  well  for  the  reputation  of  our  countrymen 
that  half-way  up,  at  the  tea-house  where  travellers 
halt,  we  found  a  similar  notice  in  English  as  well  as 
in  the  vernacular. 

Our  path  lay  by  th(^  edge  of  a  deep  gorge,  with  a 


;  y- 


vi 


108 


RAMIiLKS    IN    .lAI'AV 


swollen  ytivaii)  (lasiiinL,^  far  l.cticatli.  ami  lor  tin'  liist 
l"<'ur  niilos  cultivatoil  ground  intrrniinolcd  with  coj.- 
picc.     The    front    socmi^d    to  he  harrod   })v  a    snow- 
('a2){H'd  volcanic  motniiain    raiinc   with    many   jao-aod 
peaks,  tlio  liighcst  of  wliicli.  Nantaizan,  i,s  laid  down 
as     8,800     feet.       Men     were     li-liing    in    the    most 
temptinn-looking    trout    pools,    and    rapidly    fillino- 
their  creels  from   the  milky  turl)id  water  with  a  kind 
of  trout,  with  ci'imson  liellies  aiel  silver  spots.    These 
sportsmen  were  e(mrte(Mis  and  friendly,  and  proud  to 
exhil.it   their   tackhv    which    was    reallv   very  clever. 
Their  rods  were  simple   bamboo  stems.      They  had  a 
good  as.sortment  of  Hies  in  little  boxes,  among  them 
salmon  flies,  mad(>   of  what  seemed    to    me    golden 
pheasant  feathers.     Thev  told  me  they  used  these  in 
the  lake  above,  though  the  river  seemed  an  anluous 
one  for  the  most  agile  of  salmon  to  attempt.     1  was 
told  that  there  is  abundanee  of  salmon  in  the  lake, 
but  this  was  not  the  season  for  them.     The  stivams 
ure  well  stocked  with  smaller  fry  of  various  species. 
which  I  will  not  attempt  to  name.     A\'e  .soon  beuan 
to  elimb  the  steep  mountain-side   by  a  rough  path, 
occasionally  cut  for  a  long  distance  out  of  the  cliff, 
high    above    the   stream.       We   were   in   a  forest  of 
ciyptonKuna,  pine,  fir  (Ahies  ^.sv^y./),  maple,  alder,  oak, 
birch,  and  larcli,  not  yet  in  leaf. 

The  gigantic  cryj.tonierias  were  a  grand  sigjit, 
and  occasionall}-  a  tall  fir  towered  above  all  the  sur- 
rounding hard-wood  trees.  But  with  few-  exceptions 
the  deciduous  trees  and  ferns  wove  only  just  buddino-. 
I   here    saw  tlie  Japanese  robin  and    hedge-sparrow 


• 


A    VISIT    TO    NIKKd 


109 


3 


for    tlie    first    lime,    hotli    very    like    our    own.    iiiid 
."xactly  r(\s('iiil)liiio-  tlimi   in  ju.tc  and  halijts,  though 
in  .lapan    they  aiv   lioth  cxchisivoly  mountain    birds, 
said  iicNcr    lo  lie   iniuid  lower  than   4,000  font,  and 
(•onH('(|U('ntly  arc  t  he  rarest  of  Japanese  birds  in  coUec;- 
tions.      One  hirge  tree,  not    in  h-af,  hut  covered  with 
shi-i'ts  of  hirge  rosy  hlossonis  of  an  ()[)en  trumpet  shape, 
inonopetah)us,  called  liy  our  men   the  yasu,  we  eouhl 
not    make    out.      It    oidy    grows    at    a    consideralile 
idiitiide,  and,   in   fact,   generally  the   unmelted  snow 
carpeted  the  ground   where  it  was  in  flower.      Iferc  it 
was   .so    abundant    as   to    make  up  for  the   want   of 
foliage  in  the  other  tives.  and  contrasted   beauTifullv 
with    the    dark    tirs  and    cryptomerias.     There    were 
plenty  of  species  of  thuyas  and  other  smaller  trees 
strange  to  me.     One,  of  the  most  striking  features  of 
this  loi'cst  were   the  fe.stoons  of  a  lontr  trailinfr  moss 
{Lycopod'nnn  Sit'lnihH),  \\\\\r\\  with  its  tendrils  forms 
ileecy  pendants  from  each  bough,  and  at  a  distance 
these    have    the  effect  of  a  silvery  mist  enveloping 
the  tree. 

Some  fine  cascades  varied  the  scene,  and  here  and 
there  a  clulletdike  teadiouse  was  perched  on  the  edge 
ol  a  lihdf  connnan<liiig  some  fine  view  of  a  waterfall 
or  laN-ine.  We  halted  at  more  than  one  of  them,  and 
enjoyed  green  tea  at  half  a  farthing  a  cup,  with  a 
morsel  of  given  bean  (;ake  and  a  sugar-plum  thrown 
in.  The  situation  of  these  tea-houses  is  another 
instance  of  the  inborn  love  of  natural  beauty  so 
characteristic  of  the  people.  On  a  moist  bank  behind 
one    of   these    tea-hou.ses    I    found    large  clumps   of 


'^  '.: 


11  fill 


'flP 


'    iil 

M 

■  !   J 


KAMULKS    IN    JAPAN 


I  I 


isiti : 


\m 


rriiiiuhi  j<i/)()uli'(t,  and  it  was  intficstint,^  to  note 
Hint  the  f'oloiirs  \vt  ic  as  varied  in  the  wild  as  m  tlic 
<Milti\at('(l  s[)((iiiu'iiM  in  our  uai'dcns,  tlion^iili  j)(»ssil)l\' 
llicsi!  iiia\-  liuNci  hccii  sirauylcrs  IVoiu  cult ix'ation. 

Tlu'  road  or  track  had  hccn  washed  awa\'  in 
many  jdaees  li\  recent  floods,  and  we  (il'ten  had  to 
])iissuiid  repass  the  stream  l)y  wjiat  seemed  |ieriioiisly 
slender  Inimboo  and  straw  l'o(»t-l>ridges,  which,  as 
they  had  no  hand-rftils,  th'inanded  all  one's  nei've  to 
make  a  safe  passage,  the  Kridu'c  liciiiLi,'  simply  three 
or  four  \'ery  loiii"'  liamlioos  thrown  across  the  gully, 
and  wisps  of  riee  sliaw  plaited  Itetwc^n  them.  l»ut 
we  soon  found  that  they  were  not  ditH(ndt  to  us(\  so 
long  as  oidy  one  passenger  at  a  timt;  attempts  the 
feat,  the  straw  wisps  alVording  a  foot-hold  that,  at 
least,  does  not  slip.  Perhaps  they  are  not  more 
permanent  than  the  plaiteil  straw  sandals,  or  ininiji, 
whieh  strew  the  paths  evei'ywher(\  and  whieh  can 
he  bought  for  a  penriy  a  pair  at  every  wayside  shop 
and  tea-house,  and  whicli  last  hut  a  few  days,  and  are 
then  Hung  aside,  the  wearcjr  heing  equally  at  home 
with  or  without  his  sandals.  Towards  the  end  of  a 
long  day  1  often  felt  sorely  tempted  to  discard  my 
heavy  European  shoes  and,  slitting  the  end  of  m\' 
stocking,  to  a(h)pt  the  light  and  airy  waraji,  which  is 
only  fasteniMl  by  a  coui)lc  of  wisps  passing  between 
the  irreat  and  other  toes,  •ind  then  round  the  ankle. 

A  less  steep  but  far  more  circuitous  road  to  the 
sacred  lake  was  being  constructed,  and  sevcn-al  times 
intersected  our  path.  It  was  evidentl}'  cngineeicd 
with  great  skill,  l"r  this  is  a  science  to  which   I'iic 


A   VISIT   TO   NIKKO 


HI 


as 


mm 


Japnnose  have  a|)[)li('(l  thomsclvoH  with  ffreat  encrrjv 
and  success.  The  liorsos  cmplovcd  in  the  cuftiii'-s 
for  (Irawinjx  the  trolleys  were  .ill  >Ii(h1,  not  with  iron 
shoos,  l.iit  vvilli  straw  san<lals  like  their  masters, 
fastened  on  like  the  leather  slippers  whieli  our  horse^ 
wear  in  draw  inn-  hiwn-tnowers.  This  was  not  the 
only  new  road  in  course  of  eonstruetioii,  (of  the 
wlioh-  neiirhhourhood  of  Nikko  was  as  full  of  roa<l 
repairing  as  though  a  new  C.nnty  Council  had  just 
eonie  into  otHci;.  (hi  in(piiring  why  so  much  was 
heiug  done  to  the  roads,  we  were  infoinied  that  as 
the  honourable  visit  of  the  great  Czaroviteh  of  iJussia 
was  looked  for  in  a  few  weeks,  they  wished  to  have 
all  the  roads  in  the  best  possible  condition,  ami  a 
eonsiderable  sum  was  being  s[)eiit  on  them.  Uwinn', 
however,  to  the  untoward  event  to  be  nientionecl 
later  on  in  our  rand)les,  the  imperial  visit  to  Nikko 
was  never  ueconiplished. 

At  length  we  ari-ive  at  the  f.ake  of  Chusenji,  a 
great  mountain  tarn,  in  a  w'nh  minintain  amphi- 
theatre, the  steep  slopes  of  which  aw.  thickly  wooded 
everywhere  to  the  water's  edge.  It  is  about  eight 
miles  long  and  not  (|uite  three  wide,  about  4,500  feet 
above  the  sea.  The  road  suddenly  opens  upon  one 
end  of  the  lake,  affording  a  view  along  its  whole 
length.  We  proceed  through  a  long  wooden  village, 
with  a  monotonous  row  of  sheds  or  huts  on  one  side, 
all  shut  up,  the  lodgings  of  the  pilgi'ims  who  crowd 
to  this  holy  place  in  summer.  The  Shinto  temple 
is  said  to  have  been  founded  by  Shodo  Slionin  a 
thousand  and  eighty  years  ago,  and  the  grounds  are 


\i 


'HI 
I' 


?!. 


112 


l!.\.MlU,i:s    IN    .lAI'AN 


looked  ii[)oii  jiH  HHf'red,  and  ciiii  only  lie  ciitfri'd  on 
foot.  Tlic  side  of  tilt'  villii;fo  nruiTNt  llit-  lakf  Itct'oro 
ono  icaelics  the  tt'iiijilc  is  liiit'd  wllli  slio[»  and  tea- 
lioii."t('.s,  i»i(»\i(lf(l  with  rli.iriiiiiin  IimIi'mujcs  osrr- 
lian  'he    l.ikc,   .iiid    vvitli   a    loscly    view    of    ilic 

niouni.uii^  ,  and  liriit-aili  hoats  lie  i<!ly  niooird. 
inr.sistibls-  invitiii-'-  iis  to  an  excursion. 

IltMC  we  were  tiratctl  in  real  eounlry  fashion. 
Our  gu'cst-ehanilier  on  the  lirst  floor  was  oiu-  with 
tiie  verandah  o\'ciiiaii'.:iiiii;  th(»  calm  lilue  waters. 
and  on  the  matting  we  sat.  J>rightly  eiad  dam.seLs 
carried  tiny  square  iac(iuer  tables,  about  six  inches 
high,  wiiich  they  set  before  us,  but  considerately 
suijplied  us  with  fitton  (wadded  ([uilts  rolled  up)  on 
which  to  lean  ;  a  delicate  consideration  for  oiu' 
Western  uncouthness.  One  little  table  was  set 
before  each  guest,  on  wliieh  were  little  saucers  of 
exc[uisite  mountain  trout,  ,-eaweed  .soup,  and  the 
one  di'licuey  wliieh  we  never  eoiiJd  be  brought  to 
endure — (hukon,  a  sort  of  decayed  radish.  These 
delicacies,  however,  we  suppli'tnented  by  subslantiais 
broutdit  from  the  vallev  below.  Altera  rest  of  two 
or  three  hours  we  investigated  the  sights  of  the 
place,  and  returned  by  a  slightly  ditl'ei'ent  route, 
which  enabled  us  to  see  another  tine  cascade,  350 
feet.  It  was  dark  long  before  we  had  reached  our 
delicious  little  inn,  thoroughly  tired  and  as  thoroughly 
happy.  We  foiuid  our  arrival  awaited  by  a  circle  of 
vendors  of  eurios,  lac(i'u  r-ware,  bron;^es,  photos,  and 
bird-skins,  for  our  fame  had  'V  idently  .' rv- ad,  visitors 
beino'  very  rare  at  this  Luiie  ol  year.     But  not  even 


A    VISIT   K)    MKKO  ]  ( ;{ 

tl"'  l'if.l-Hkin.s  ...M.M  kr..,,  „>  awakr,  an.l  uv  ,„o,„|,tly 
retired  to  mw  well-cariie.l  ront. 

I>iiriiiM  flic  ui|,|,t  V  ■  uviv  ..ceaHioiiallv  lousd  ),v 
"  -H,n.l  as  of  fl...  swish  oCa.Ioxon  «h»vver-l,aths 
'•'"''•"»e.l,  l,ur  our  little  vv<mhI.,,  .!o||-h„us(..  tl.inus 
wero  its  !,r,anls,  turned  the  miu  u  .||.     s.,   i,.op  were 


LAKE  OP  CHVSENJI. 

the  caves   that  in   the  morninc.  we  found   even   the 
verandahs    dry,    thou.n^h    tlie    rain    ceased    not    the 
whole  <lay.      It  was  the  first  wet    lay  I  had  had  in 
''apan.  and  I   only   had  (,ne  nmre    lurino-  mv  visit 
and  ,t   also  was   a    Sunday.     To  t.  ke   a  walk    was 
out  of  the  question,  but  onr  friends  .  om  the  foreicm 
hotel  joined   ns  for    mornincr   servic.     as   wpII  a^", 
young  native,  a  friend  of  our  landh.d,  and,  s,>  tar 


!* 


111 


114 


RAMBLES   IN    JAPAN 


in 


i  ! 
f 


as  we  knew,  the  only  Christian  in  Nikko.  He  was 
an  intelligent  youiiij;  man  who  often  came  in  to 
otier  his  services  as  interpreter  if  retiuired,  or  to 
tell  us  the  traditions  of  the  place.  He  had  been 
live  years  in  California,  where  he  had  joined  the 
Christian  Church  and  been  baptized.  He  had  settled 
here  as  a  teacher  of  English.  That  a  young  man  of 
superior  ])osition  can  find  it  worth  while  to  establish 
himself  in  a  small,  out-of-the-way  country  town  as  a 
teacher  of  English,  shows  the  rapidity  ^vith  which  the 
study  of  our  language  is  advancing. 

In  fact,  as  I  shall  have  occasion  to  mention  later, 
the  only  foreign  languages  that  seem   to  have  any 
attraction   for  this  people  are  English  and  Chinese. 
The  latter  most  naturally,  as  it  is  the  vehicle  through 
which    they    have    received    all    their    religious   and 
moral  teachino-,  for  the  aboriginal  religion  of  Shinto- 
ism  has  no  literature,  and  t4ie  Buddhist  classics  which 
are  studied  arc  in  the  Chinese  language  ;  while  their 
whole  moral  teaching  is  based  upon  Confucianism,  all 
the  treatises  on  which  are  in  the  same  tongue.     It 
should  be  understood  that  in  Japanese  literature  the 
characters    used    are    Chinese,    the    inflections    and 
particles  being   added  in  the  Jnpunese  syllabary,  or 
kana,   as    it   is    called.     The    Chinese    being  an  un- 
inflected  language,  and   structurally  utterly  distinct 
from  Japanese,  the  latter  have  adopted  the  Chinese 
si(Tn  for  the  root-word,  to  which  they  athx  kana  or 
syllabic  signs  as  may  be  required.     Moreover,  before 
the  opening  of  the  country  to  foreigners  they  had 
some   external   ami   dijiloniatic  dealings  with  China, 


i 


A    VISIT   TO   NIKKO 


115 


which  rendered  the  language  a  useful  accomplisliment 
hoth  to  the  statesman  and  the  merchant.     AJl  these 
facts  have  led  to  the  incorporation  of  many  Chinese 
words  in  the   learned    Janguage,   tliough    their   pro- 
nunciation would   he  unintelligible  to  a  Chinaman. 
With  the  opening  of  the  c(nintry  to  trade,  to  foreio-n 
inventions,  and  to    modern    science,  has   arisen  the 
necessity  for  a  limitless  addition  of  scientific  terms 
to  the   language.     To  meet  this  want  the  Japanese 
have  never  adopted  i-h.glish  words,  but  have  gone  to 
Chinese,  exactly  as  we  do  to  Greek  for  terms  relatino' 
to  steam,  electricity,  navigati(m,  and  the  like. 

Our  visitor  evidently  enjoyed  the  serN  ice,  though 
perhaps  a  somewhat  lukewarm  Christian.  Yet  how, 
as  he  remarked,  could  his  faith  do  otherwise  than' 
'  get  thill,'  according  to  the  Japanese  idiom,  when 
alone,  without  one  fellow-believer  to  sympathise  with 
hnn,  in  this  very  centre  of  Japanese  Buddhism  ! 

In  the  afternoon  the  clouds  still  continued  theii- 
ceaseless  downpour,  and  my  daughter  succeeded  in 
gathering  in  our  parlour,  out  of  which  the  table  and 
two   chairs   were   cleared,   a   little    .-ompany    of  the 
young  Christian,   the   wife,   family,   and  servants  <.f 
Mr.     Kanaya,     our    landlord,    and    several     of    the 
neighbours.     They  all   sat   round    the    room  on  the 
mats,    my    daughter,    in    the    centre,    readin-    and 
explaining  by  means  of  Scripture  pictures  the""Gospe 
story,  and    keeping  up  their   eager   attention   for  a 
couple  of  hours. 

Mr.  Kanaya,  as  a  member  of  the  choir  ,.f  one  of 
the  Buddhist  temples,  supplied  me  with  a  set  of  altar 

I  2 


.M 


M 

Ml 


u  ■ 


116 


RAMBLES    IN    JAPAN 


furniture  in  hron/^e  which  liad  ])ccoiii('  his  poi'(|uisitc 
on  being  j-ephiccd  hy  a  newer  set.  T\wy  would  almost 
have  s<Tvc(l  for  a  Homisli  altar,  consist inu'  of  two 
candlcslicks,  a  pair  of  Hower-vases,  a  })ati'ii  for  rice,  a 
small  incense  censer,  and  a  little  acolyte's  hell.  In 
addition,  I  obtained  a  set  of  iiuddhist  priest's  robes, 
the  cassock  being  light  green,  the  alb  ivpresenteil  bv 
a  pale  drab  vest,  whilst  an  embroidered  ti})pet  would 
admirably  do  dutx'  for  a  chasubh>,  and  a  green  stole 
embroidered  in  gold  completed  the  outfit.  There  is 
nothing  new  under  the  sun  I 

We  spent  another  day  in  visiting  other  groups 
of  temples,  to  describe  which  would  be  in  the  main 
a  repetition  of  the  former  account;  and  afterwaids 
walked  up  a  magnihi'cnt  avenue  of  ervptomerias 
shading  a  finely  ])a\-e(|  road.  j\Iaiiy  of  the  trees  are 
seven  feet  in  diameter,  but  then'  heigli!  is  greater 
in  ja-oportion.  We  measureil  one  of  ihcm  by  the 
simple  methoil  which  I  hav  often  empiojed  in  calcu- 
lating the  height  of  I'uins  ;  that  is.  b\-  usinn-  ^  h)no- 
stick  and  comparing  the  length  of  its  shadow  with 
that  of  the  tree,  then  cahndating  by  proportion  the 
height  of  the  tree  from  the  length  of  the  stick.  We 
lound  its  height  to  be  100  feet.  These  trees  are  said 
to  l)e  the  tallest  in  the  woild  next  to  the  se(|uoias  of 
( 'aliCoi'uia.  In  the  wood  a  mimber  of  verv  curious 
plants  rewai'ded  our  I'csearch,  es})eciallv  a  sort  o! 
giant  Herb  Paris,  with  three  leaves  inste;id  of  four 
the  badge  of  the  Tokugawa  kShoguu  fanuly.  But  as 
it  was  only  just  in  leaf,  I  had  no  neans  of  ascer- 
taining its  botanical  character.      Kverv  now  ami  then 


^n*Jk 


''''-''■'.'id^:'i^■%:'>'^'^'^'^^^'^l 


\ 


iiLUUUlST  I'UILST. 


' 


';! 


;!  .,1 


A   VISIT   TO    NIKKO 


119 


at  the  side  of  tlie  putli  uus  a  little  iiiclie  .scoojn.d  out 
in  the  rock,  in  which  was  placed  a  miiiiatuie  litth^ 
Buddha,  very  delicately  carved  in  wood,  some  of 
them  not  more  than  six  inches  high,  and  the  remains 
of  a  few  tapers  in  front,  recalling  the  litth^  wayside 
shrines  of  Italy  or  Spain.  I  was  sorely  tcmjjted  to 
pocket  one  of  these  interesting  relics,  but  did  not 
feel  m)self  justiHed  in  acting  the  iconoclast,  though 
I  argued  that  it  might  be  a  very  efficient  way  of 
suppressing  Buddhism. 

Another   charming    little    expedition   was  to  the 
cascade  of  Nanataki.    The  walk  atforded  e\ery  variety 
of  native  scenery— dashing  mountain  torrents,  rickety 
baml)oo  bridges,  pine- woods,  picturesque  tea-houses, 
and  fairy  little  gardens  with  their  lakes  and  bridges, 
the  former  full  of  goldfish.     Wherevei-  a  little  rock 
or  edge  of  a  1)1  utf  oHcred  a  site  with  an  attractive 
landscape,  there  was  sure  to  be  perched  a  tea-house. 
In   a  wood  was  a   sequestered  cemetery,  where  the 
ashes  of   those   cremated   are    deposited  under  tiny 
obelisks.     There  was  one  new  handsome  obelisk  with 
a  long  inscription,  all  picked  out  in  red,  and   a  toy 
shrine    in    front   of   it  with    bright    flowers    planted 
around.     The  red  paint  signifies  that  the  hero  of  the 
monument  is  still  living,  for  those  who  can  afford  it 
like  to  put  them  up  and    inscribe  their  epitaphs  in 
their  lifetime.     At  length  we  reached  a  tea-house  on 
the  top  of  a  hill,  and  from  it  looked  down  into  the 
next  valley,  with  a  fine  waterfall,  perhaps  200  feet 
high.      T    was    content    with    the    distant    prospect, 
though    the  proper  proceeding  would   have  been  to 


:^|f|i 


I,', 


120 


RAMULKS    JN    JAl'AN 


soran.hio  ,lown  the  steep  side  of  the  moiintah,,  and 
then,  .le.-^p.s.n-  the  (lixMiehin-  fVon,  the  sprav,  to  ..et 
iH'tween  the  water  and  the  HitK  As  a  naturalist  my 
time  was  not  wasted,  for,  whether  it  were  yesterday's 
'•ain  or  this  morning's  l.right  snn,  one  or  other  had 
evoked  a  nun.lier  of  butterHies,  who  emerged  for  the 
first  time  fiom  tli,>ir  elirvsajidcs. 

<>^i  •••;••  'vtun.  we  had.  as  usual,  a  levee  of  curio- 
mongers,  and  ,-..,iainly  our  fastidiousness  „n   former 
evenings  had  in<l,urd  then,  to  l.ring  some  reallv  o-ood 
l)its  of  .>1.1  1,,-on.e,  et.-,      !>.„,  most  satisfactory  to"  me 
was  the  ivturu  of  a  man  and  a  hoy  who  had   l.rou-ht 
a  few  I.ird-skius  the  first  evening,  and  who  had  been 
<"videnrly  surpris,.]  by  my  taking  the  whole  consign- 
ment.   1  had  told  the  bearer  to  bring  some  more.    On 
this  occasion  the  colle.-tor  himself  appeare.l  with  his 
lad  with  ])etween  two  and  three  hundn-d  skins  verv 
neatly  made,  all  labelled  an.l   ticketed  with  Japanese 
name,   place,   and  date.       Recognising   s.mie    of  the 
labels  as  being  of  a  type  familiar  to  me  at  home   I 
iiu|uired   what    he   usually  du]   with   his   hirds.       He 
explained  that  he  had  been  f^n- several  years  employed 
by  an    Englishman,   who  was  now  dead,  to   whom  he 
used  to  send  all  he  coll.M-i.d.     I  soon  ascertained  that 
he   had    been  employed  by  tJK,  late  Uv.    II.   Piyer 
through    whom    I    had    obtained    many   specimens' 
Unfortunately   the    locality   usually  given    had  been 
Yokohama,  whereas  all  these  birds  were  collected  in 
the  forests  round  Nikko,  and  at  a  height  of  from  three 
to   eight  thousand  feet  a1x)ve  the  sea.     No  wonder 
that    English   writers    have    gone    a.tia)    as    to    the 


A    VISIT    TO    MKKO 


121 


lo<-alirios  of  the  hi  ids  of  Ja])an.      It  was  pivttv  niucli 
as  if  the  (h^tterols  uiid  riiig-ousels  of  Cross  Fell  shouhl 
l)e    hil.elled  '  ( Jl.taiiied  at   Liverpooh'     I  found   both 
him    and     his    lad    most    intelliovnt    and    delightfid 
I'nthiisiasts.    Along  with  the  hird-skins  were  specimens 
of  no  less   than    live  species  of   sijuirrel.      The  lad 
explained  to  me  mi  word  and  [)aiitomime  the  liomes 
and  hahits  of  each  species.      Amongst  them  were  two 
or  three  skins  of  a  vciy  large  s[)ecies,  which  he  stated 
to  me  was  found  in  summer  only  in  the  pine-forests 
near  the  nioiinlaiii  top;   but  in  winter,  during  heavy 
snow-storms,  he  deraared  that,  unlike  any  other  kind, 
these  creatures  came  down  to   the   villages  (we  are 
speaking,  of  course,  of  villages  of  higher  altitude  than 
Nikko),  and  when  they  saw  at  night  a  light  through 
the  walls  of  a  cottage,  would  break  a  hole  through 
the   paper,  and,  entering  without  cei'enioiiv,  put  out 
the  candle  and  eat  it.     I  give  this  stor}'  for  what   it 
IS  worth  ;  but  it  certainly  was  not  only  vouched  for 
I'y  the  lad  and  his  employer,  but  attested   l)y  all  the 
by-sitters.       His  collection   compiised    more    than    a 
hundred  species  of  birds,  but  he  had  seldcmi  brought 
more  than  a  pair  (.f  each,  all  carefully  se.xed.       I  took 
them    up   one    by  one,  and    at    once    the    note   was 
imitated,  and  often   the  action  of  the  bird,  as  in  the 
case  of  the  woodpeckers,  with  inimitable  pantomime. 
Whether  it  were  the  jerking  of  the  black  water-ousel 
or  dipper,  the  skinmiing  of  the  swallow,  the  dash  of 
the  swift,  the  chatter  of  the  jay,  or  the  sudden  whistle 
of  the  bush-warbler  as  it  darts  up  a  reed,  each  one 
was  perfectly  represented  as  I  leisurel}-  took  up  one 


il 


122 


RAM15LF-:.S    IN    JAI'AN 


1*1  I 


m ! 

I*    : 


ai'teranotlici-  from   the  pilo  aii.!  askcl,  '  \Vhn,t  is  tlu- 
iiame  of  this  ?     What  does  it  do  ? ' 

I  fouii.l   ihat  my  visitor  had   lately  rocoivod   an 
order    from     a     dealer    at    Yokohama    to    supply    a 
••omplete  set  of  birds  for  an    English   (tolleetor,  for 
whom  these  were  intended.     I  offered  him,  however, 
a  reasonable  price  for  the  whole,  whieh  he  willingly 
aceepted,  thounh  he  told  me— what  1  quite  believe-- 
that  he  charged  his  Yokohama  customer  three  times 
the  pi-iee.    1  suspect  that  very  few  of  these  birds  were 
shot ;  in  fact,  the  collector  told  me  that  he  captured 
the  smaller  species   with    bird-lime,  and   the  larger, 
including    the    pjieasants,    with    hair-springes.      One 
characteristic    biid    was  conspicuous  by  its   absence. 
There  were  no  cianes  in  the  collection.     Although 
live  species  arc   known  as  belonging  to  Japan,  and 
three  of  thon,   the  whit.-napo.l,   white-headed,  and 
especial  1\'    the    sacred     crane,    are    fre(|uently    semi- 
.h^mesticated   in  parks,  public;  and  private,   and  are 
familiar  as  continually  recurring  in  Japanese  art,  yet 
I  fear  their  fate  in  Japan  in  the  near  future  is  that  of 
their  congeners  in  Englanu         ^ in.tion.     I  only  once 
in  the  course  of  my  rambles  saw  a  flock  of  wild  cranes 
—at  least  near  enough  to  identify  them— and  this 
was  in  the  [niand  Sea,  wliei'c  a  V-shaped  party  of  the 
white-naped   ci'ane    passed    overliead.       My    friend, 
however,  did  not  admit  their  extin(;tion,  but  assured 
ine  he  was  for  too  loyal  a  subject  of  the  Mikado  and 
leverencer   of    the   gods    to    commit    llie    crime   of 
molesting  this  sacred  bird. 

It  must  have  been  midnight  before  our  ornitho 


^l^{ 


¥  -y^ 


ff 


A    VISIT   TO    NIKKO 


I2n 


logical  seance  canio  to  an  end — perhaps  the  most 
instructive  natiiral-liistory  lecture  that  I  ever  enjoyed. 
P>ut  all  tilings  come  to  an  end,  even  a  visit  to  Nikko, 
though  we  were  hjth  to  tear  ourselves  away  from  this 
Ifiscinating  spot  and  its  surroundings.  The  final 
reckoning  with  our  host  was  to  me  a  most  amusin"' 
illustration  of  the  national  courtesies.  Mr.  Kanaya 
acted  as  though  the  production  of  his  l)ill  were  the 
most  painful  effort,  and  at  length  reluctantly  he 
lirought  it  forth,  consisting  of  a  numher  of  (Chinese; 
scrawls  (»ii  strips  of  tissue-pa [H'r.  On  ItenchMJ  knees 
and  forehead  touching  the  mat  did  my  fi'iend  push  it 
lorwai'd  ;  I,  howiug  as  well  as  my  stiff  Western  hack 
would  permit  me,  placed  the  proper  sum,  wrapped  in 
thin  white  paper,  hefore  him,  for  nothing  is  moi'c 
ill-hred  than  to  hand  coin  without  its  being  wrapped 
ill  paper.  Again  it  was  received  with  l)ovving,  low, 
lower,  lowest ;  but  it  is  always  the  rule  of  politeness 
to  pay  something  more  than  the  bill — in  fact,  to  pay 
an  hotel  bill  net  would  be  ccmsidered  an  insult,  or  at 
least  a  mailc  of  great  dissatisfaction.  Thei-efore, 
wrapping  a  yen  (dollar)  in  white  paper,  I  added  it 
with  low  bows.  Tt  was  returned  with  lower,  and 
finally  pressed  upon  the  host  with  still  more  profound 
inclinations,  and  as  at  length  duly  and  gratefully 
received.  The  bright  little  waiting-maid  received  her 
yen  with  the  same  show  of  modest  reluctance. 


124 


RAMliLlvS    IN    JAl'AiS 


CTTAI'TKl}    IV 


I 


TIIK     HAKO.NK 


A  K  K 


III 


IlKTiTHNTxa  from  Nikko  to  Tokio  was  (|uittiiitr  tlio 
world  t»r  roiiiaiicc  and  ancient  liisioiv  to  cnttT  that 
of  iiiodcrn  civilisation  and  lasliion.  \\  c  remained  a 
iew  tlav.s  nnder  Bisho[t  liiekersteth's  Imspitalile  riHif. 
and  di\('rsilied  sigUt-soeiii'i;  \\i'li  mndi  social  inter- 
(;ours(>,  ver\'  Western  in  its  character.  We  eiijoye(| 
])arties  otlicial,  ecclesiastic;;!,  and  aniii|narian,  and 
under  the  iia[)|)iest  auspices  mad(>  ac(|naintanc(>  witli 
many  charminti;  (idtiired  and  literary  residents  of 
various  nationalities.  Not  the  least  interesting:  was 
an  evening'  with  my  old  Palestine  eollaliorator, 
(general  I'almer,  II. Iv,  now  employed  ollicially  l)y 
the  .hipanose  riovernment  ;  ami  another  evening' 
with  Dr.  Whitney,  the  Secretary  to  the  I'liited 
States  Legation,  full  of  inrormation,  not  only  on 
Jai)anesc  history  and  polities.  !)ut  also  -which  was 
to  me  a  great  boon —on  the  hotany  of  the  country, 
lie  supplied  me  with  what  [»roved  invaluable  in 
our  subsequent  rambles — a  portable  botanical  press 
and  a  large  supply  of  botanical  ])aper,  as  well  as  a 
catalogue  of  the  tlora  of  Japan,  in  Japanese  and 
Latin,  to  be  the  nucleus  (jf  my  Japanese  library. 
Before  leaving  Tokio,  it  was  rather  alarming  to  dis- 


fti  M 


•I 

I 


■ll 


■■'4 
'I 


11 1 


i   i 


THK    IIAKONK    l.AKK 


127 


(;ovor  how  truly  wo  had  v.-ritird  the  myiu^r  «,,  fai-  that 
ih.'  biiyinu  inMiiiM  st-izes  evory.mc  on  hindinj^s  iiud 
iiov.'i-  leaves  thnn  till  they  ,|iiit  tk-  shoiva.''  Th.' 
pacKing  of  all  our  pmchascs.  armour,  swords,  hron/cs, 
I'irds,  .-tc,  atid  -Irspatchiiio  tlicin  to  Yok-oliaina,  was 
ii  good  day's  woi  k. 

And  now  \v<'  ar(M.,i  the  rail  a<riim  lor  a  I' i'ty  miles' 
""I  to  K'o/u.      W,.  had  lovely  peeps  of  JMiji  San  with 
her  mantle  of  snow,  reeailinir  to  me  hoth  in  shape  and 
>ilnalion    the    iN^ak  of  Teiieritfe,  which  it  very  nearly 
•'.luals  in   hcj.irlit.      Fuji,  indee.f  jnr  ,„,,„y  days  ron- 
rinued    t(.    ]m    the    (H-ntral    point    round    whieh    our 
jouniey.s  icvoIv.mI.      From  its  immensi>  li<'i,i,dit.  so  far 
exeellinu'    anv  other  mountain  in   tin,  mitral  ran,ue, 
or  l)a<;khone  ol'.laf.aii,  from  whieh  it  is  separated  l)y  a 
wide   extrnt   of  irrenidar   plain,  it   -ives  fr„m  many 
points  uf  vifw   th.'  inipre.s.si(ai  of  a  mountain  rising 
out  of  the  seu  in  solitary  state.      No  natural  feature 
is  so  repeatedly  dejaeted  in  the  art  of  Japan,  whether 
eeramie,  pictorial.  ..r  poetie.      The  native  appreciation 
ol    its   central  grandeur  may   he    illustrated    by  an 
expression  in  a  sermon  of  a  young  Jai)anese  clergy- 
man,   that    the  verse,  Miod  so  loved   the  world  that 
Me  gave  Ills  only   begotten  Son'  (John  iii.  IG),  was 
the  Fuji   San   of  the   lUble.     (ireat  and  wi.lespread 
was    the    consternation    during   the   earthquake   that 
oe<-urred  shortly  after  my  visit,  when  the  i-eport  was 
spread,  and  credited,  that  Fuji  San  had  been  destroyed. 
It  was  spoken  of,  not  only  as  the  greatest  possible 
national   loss,  but  as  the  most  terrible  omen  for  the 
lilt ure.     CojTcspondingly  gi-eat  was  the  rejoicing  when 


■ji. 


mi 


128 


RAMIU-RS    IN    .lAI'.W 


It  Wits  ini(lerst(jt)d  that  the  l)oh)ve(l  and  sacred 
inoiintaiii  still  raised  her  snowy  peak  heavenward, 
ihoitt-li  a.  slight  lanilsh'j)  had  oceurred  on  part  of  the 
slope. 

The   railway  deposited  us  at  Kozu,  where  we  had 
a  short  stroll  on  the  I.eaeh,  with  a  lovely  view  of  the 
iJay  of  Udawara.  and  in  the  far  distance  the  volcanic 
island   of  JMioshima,    a    reproduction    of   the    Lipari 
Jslauds  of  the  Alediterranean,  and  whose  volcano  is  still 
as  active  as  theirs.      We  then  transferred  ourselves  t(. 
the  tranicar  which  was  to  convey  us  to  Yanioto,  for, 
the  tratlic  hardly  proniisino-  to  be  renuniei'atix'e  enouoh 
for  a  railway,  the  Jajianese,  decidedly  in  advance  of 
ourselves  in  tjiese  matters,  at  once  laid  down  a  tram- 
line, while  w(>  are  talkini^  of  liuht   railwaxs  in  aid  of 
agricidture.     We  found  the   tram.-ars  were    divided 
into  three  classes,  and,  according'  to  our  usual  custom, 
took  second-class  tickets.    We  were  amused  afterwards 
to  find  that  the    three    onmilaises  were  identical  in 
their  ap|)ointments,  and  that  the  only  distinction  was 
that  the  first  class  preceded  us  by  a  few  yards,  and 
,L;avc  us  tlse  benclit  of  tlicir  dust,  which  we  passed  on, 
plus  our    own,  to    our   more    economical    third-class 
followers.      The   road   wound   u])  a  lovely  valley,  bv 
the  wide  of  a   turbulent  toiivnt.  and  much  resembled 
the    dri\e   to    Balmoral   b}-    the    i)irks   of  Aberfeldy. 
Close    to    the    startino-j)lace    at    Udawara    were    the 
remains  of  what  was  once  a  very  famous  I)aimio's 
castle,  which  was  destrojed  during  the  late  r(n-olution. 
From  1490  it  was  for  more  than  a  century  the  seat  of 
government  of  tln^   Sh(,guns  of  the  Ilojo  line.     The 


THE    JIAKONI-:    l.AKH 


12!) 


iic 


name    is    preserve<l   in  a  common  Jaj)anese  proverli 
wliic-h    api)Iies    to    any    purposeless    chattering    the 
expression,  '  an  Odawara  Conference.'     The   phrase  is 
said  to  have  originated  from  the  Ifojo  diiefs,  who  had 
ivtired  to  their  castle  after  a  hutth'  witli  the  celebrated 
(Tcneral  Pfidi'voshi,  spending  some  days  in  discussin- 
the  point  whether  it  were  better  to  attack  the  enemy, 
or  to  allow  liiui  to   invest   their  stronghold.      While 
they  were  unable  to  come  to  any  conclusi(m,  Hideyoslii 
solved  the  problem  by  a  sudden  onshiu.uht,  in  which 
he    stormed    the   fortress.     Jleuce    the    proverb,    an 
admirable   illustration    of   the   saxing   of   our    oreat 
general,  '  Councils  of  war  never  figlit.' 

The  tram  runs  parallel  with  the  old  Tokaido— /.,. 
the  eastern  sea-road— beautifull\-  2)aved  and  niacada 
luise.l  with  small  pe])bles,  very  narrow,  ami  lined  by 
grand  old  pines  and  eryptomerias,  chiefly  the  former, 
forming  an  avenue  of  380  miles  between  the  capitals 
of  the  .Mikado  and  the  Shogun.  It  was,  in  fact,  the 
great  arterial  line  of  the  country,  though  now,  with 
its  wayside  teadiouses,  as  deserted  as  our  own  great 
North  Eoad.  'The  old  order  changeth,  and  gLih 
[)lace  to  new.' 

Earlier  wiiters  on  Japan,  from  the  Dutch  down- 
wards, have  given  glowing  pictures  of  the  magnificence, 
the  stir  and  bustle  of  the  Tokaido  of  former  times  :  of 
the  Daimios  in  their  ponderous  palanquins,  attended 
wiih  their  hundreds  of  henchmen,  the  two-sworded 
Samuiai,  resplendent  in  lacqueivd  ai-mour,  as  twice  a 
year  they  made  their  leisurely  procession  to  do  homage 
to  the  Shogun.      By  the  Tokaido  all   the  inland  com- 


K 


.ffj  »  i^^-x-' 


t  ■         I- 

I 


i;50 


RAMBLES   IN   JAPAN 


iiiercc  of  fho  count rv  was  can'icd  on  j)af'kli()iscs  ;  tlio 
wliolc  lint',  we  arc  told,  was  as  crowded  as  the 
thoronijrli fares  of  a  oToat  city.  Indeed,  it  ninst  have 
licen  so,  to  judnv  })y  the  countk'ss  tea-houses,  many  of 
them  now  (h'serted,  whieh  Hank  the  avenue  on  either 
side.  I'id.lic  conveyances  there  were  none,  and  as  all 
travellers,  except  the  few  Daimios  in  tlicir  palanquins, 
made  their  jonrntn-  on  foot,  an<l  the  Japanese  travel 
very  leisui'cly,  tlie  sleeping'  aecommodation  required 

must  have  1 n  very  great.      One  of  the  oldest  Knolisli 

residents  in  Japan  told  us.  at  the  Eni])assy,  that  he 
reineml.ei'ed  heCore  the  revolution  the  pi-ocessions  of 
the  hainiios  alonsj;  the  Tok.'iido  with  theii-  regiments 
of  arin(>d  retainers,  and  how  outrunners  preceded  them, 
c(mipellingnot  only  the  common  sort,  hut  also  Daimios 
of  l(\sserdeoT(M^  to  stand  out  of  the  way  as  thev  passed, 
l^ven  now  tlie  custom  is  still  retained,  not  oiil\-on  the 
road,  hut  in  Tokio  and  other  towns,  of  outruiniei's  on 
foot  preceding  the  gentry,  whether  on  horscl.ack  oi'  in 
their  carriages.  Thus,  hut  ihii'ty  years  ago,  one 
might  liave  here  l.eheld  an  exa<-t  reproduction  of  the 
spectacle  of  the  feudal  lords  of  Europe  and  their  armed 
retainers. 

Arrived  at  the  tram  terminus,  Yamoto,  we  soon 
experienced  the  incraivcnience  of  beino(m  a  foreio-ner- 
frequented  track.  Wo  were  still  four  miles  from  Miya- 
n(»-Shira,  and  we  were  encumbered  with  more  than 
we  could  carry  oui'selves.  The  jinriksha  men  crowded 
round  us  like  Arabs  at  Alexandria  ;  though  with  the 
vociferations  the  likeness  ends,  for  thev  wei-e  far 
too  polite   to  3ei/:e  our  baggage,  still  less  to  dratr  us 


of  the 


K  2 


■  (. 


Jsli 


THE   HAKONE   LAKE 


133 


by  force  to  their  own  vehicles.     We  quietly  sat  down 
on  the  seat  in  front  of  the  tea- house,  assumiuLT  an  air 
of  perfect  indifference  as  to  whether  we  remained  there 
for  the  day  or  not.    We  were  assured  it  was  impossible 
for  us  to  walk.     We  smiled,  and  replenished  our  cups 
of  green  tea.     On  our  asserting  our  firm  intention  of 
walking,  the  crowd  looked  at  our  baggage— a  small 
portmanteau  and  two  hold-alls— and  assured  us  we 
could  not  carry  it.     '  We  shall  walk,  and  it  may  be 
carried/  we  said,  and  more  tea  was  sipped.     '  It  will 
take  four  jinrikshas,'  they  said.     '  Two  will  be  ample,' 
we  replied.     '  But  these  jinrikshas  are  not  like  the 
1.\)kio  ones  that  you  know,'  they  objected.     We  told 
them  to  go  by  the  load,  and  we  were  going  round  by 
the  mountain.     'That  is  impossible,' was  the  reply; 
'the   road    is   closed.'     'Then  we  will  open  it,'  we 
answer,  and  are  utterly  unmoved  by  all  arrruments. 

Seeing  us  calm  and  imperturbable,  and  not  in  the 
least  hurried,  two  of  them  at  length  started  with  very 
easy  loads  by  the  road,  and  told  us  we  should  meet 
at  the  Naraya  Hotel.     We  had  a  good  travelling  map, 
and  felt  no  doubt  as  to  our  being  able  to  find  the  way 
without  a  guide,  although  we  had  to  cross  a  wooded 
mountain,  round  which  the  road  makes  a  detour,  and 
descend  into  the  next  valley,  where  we  were  certain 
to  intersect  the  highway.     It  was  fortunate  that  our 
further  adventures  were  out  of  sight  from  Yamoto, 
for  we  missed  the  path,  and  after  pulling  ourselves 
through  dense  underwood  of  aucuba,  deutzia,  weigelia, 
and  wisteria,  up  an  almost  perpendicular  mountain, 
we  found  the  scrub  becoming  really  impenetrable,  and 


'hi 


■i« 


134 


KAMTU,E.S    IN    ,TA1'A\ 


!i 


were  compcllcMl  after  luilf  an  lunir  to  retrace  our  steps 
to  the  niaiu  road.     Our  amour-proiire  would  have  l)eeii 
too  sorely  tried  hy  the  liuiniliatioii   of  uoinn'  l)a(;k  to 
Yamoto  to  seek  a  guide  ;   but  we  descended  upon  the 
next   village,  and  soon   found  a  man  who  knew  the 
track,  and  who  was  willing  to  guide  us.     It  was  indeed 
a  climb,  even  though  we  found  the  true  route,  but 
once  arrived  at  the  summit  we  were  richlv  rewarded. 
We  found   ourselves  on  the  crest  of  the  I'idge  which 
forms  the  centre  of  the  promontory  province  of  Izu. 
Standing  where  we  were,  we  could  look  down  on  either 
side  into  a  d(M.'{)  mountain  gorge,  and  following  the 
ravine  with  our  eye  we  could  see  where  each  opened 
into  the  Pacific  Ocean  on  the  right  and  the  left  of  the 
mountain  chain.     Turning  to  the  right,  Fuji  towered 
in  front  of  us,  her  sides  girdled  with  a  cloud-belt ; 
mountain  ranges  ran  parallel  on  either  side,  aflbrdin<^ 
a  grand,  though  by  no  means  overwhelming,  pano- 
rama.    We  liad  now  nothing  to  do  but  to  follow  the 
ridge  westward  until  the  path  .should  rapidly  descend 
to    ^fiya-uo-Shita.       We     dismissed    our    courteous 
guide,  and  walked  for  another  hour  and  a  half  along 
the  ridge,  sometimes  wooded   and    sometimes  open. 
There  were  one  or  two  marshy  spots,  the  botanv  of 
which   was   quite   nox'el   to  us,   and  we   found  some 
magnificent  ladies'  slipper  {Ci/pripedlum  japonkum) 
in  full  blossom,  with  their  enormous  fan-shaped,  flat 
leaves.     It  is  very  rare,  and  the  queen  of  Japanese 
wildflowers,  as  is  oui'  species,  though,  alas  !    almost 
extinct,    of    the    British    floi-a.       It    is    a    curious 
coincidence  that,   as   Sowerby  a  hundred  years  aoo 


ig 


THE   HAKONE   LAKE 


135 


I 


commenced  liis  great  work  on  British  botany  with  an 
ilhistration  of  our  ladies'  slipper,  so  the  ilhistrated 
history  <.f  the  flora  of  Japan,  begun,  1  believe,  at  an 
earlier  date,  and  reaching  to  over  a  hundred  volumes, 
of  which  the  latter  portion  are  only  in  manuscript, 
commences  wiih  a  beautiful  hand-c(.lourcd  represen- 
tation of  this  native  species. 

The  sun  was  setting  when  we  descended  upon  tin; 
foad,  a  mile  or  two  from  Miya-no-Shita,  and  we  soon 
reached  our  hotel,  the  Naraya,  perched  on  a  hillsi.le 
amongst  bal>bling  hot  streams  and  .piaint  artificial 
gardens.     There    was    not    much    of    the    romantic 
within,  though  everything  that  could  be  desired  foi- 
creature-comfort.      Foreign    furniture    and    fare    at 
foreign  prices  are  already  establishe<l  in   this  great 
health-resort— the  Harrogate  of  .Japan.     We  hacfjust 
ordered  dinnei-,  when  we  were  informed  that  a  young 
Japanese  gentleman  re(|uested  an  in t(n-view,  or  rather^ 
as  it  was    expressed,    '  to    hang  on   our   honourable 
eyes.'     With  much  ceremony  he  was  ushered  in,  and 
with  still  more  ceremony  explained  to  us  that  he  had 
espied  the  cypripedium  protruding  from  my  vasculum 
as  we  entered,  and  was  anxious  to  know  whore  we 
had  found  it,  as  he,  too,  was  a  botanist,  and  had  been 
searching  for    it  in   Nain   for   some  days.      For   the 
information  we  gnxe  him  and  for  a  specimen  of  the 
plant  with  root  and  bloom  he  overwhelmed  us  with 
gratitude.      This,  however,  being  one  of  the  foreign 
hotels,  it  is  patronised    by    very   few    natives,    who 
generally,  when  visiting    the    springs,   board    at  the 
many  tea-houses  in  the  villages  round. 


w 


H'vl 


m 


\:]C, 


RAMBLES   IN   JAPAN 


The  next  day  was  Sunday,  and  the  second,  and 
last,  wet  duy  I  cnoonnterod  during  our  rambles.     Wc 
went  up  to  tlie  other  foreign  hotel,  whore  we  found  a 
number  of  i'ollow-countrymen,   and,   thanks   to    the 
storm,  had  a  fairly  numerous  comj)any  foi'  Divine 
Service   in    the   saloon.     Thanks    to    the    admirable 
postal    arrangements  of  the  country,  wc  received  a 
large  batch  of  letters  which    had   pursued    us  from 
[.lace   to   place.     The   postal    olHcinls  do  not,  as  at 
home,  disfigure  the  face  of  the  letter  or  card  by  re- 
addressing it,  but  simply  write  the  next  address  on  a 
slip  of  tissue-paper,  which  is  gummed  at  the  edge  and 
folded  back  over  the  missive.     If  it  has  again^to  be 
i-e-addressed,  the  same  process  is  repeated,  and  thus 
I  have   a  halfpenny  post-card  with  eleven  pages  of 
address  folded  on  to  it,  one  after  another,  and  which 
reached  me  at  length  without  extra  chai'ge. 

We  spjnt  a  couple  of  days  in  exploring  this  lovely 
mountain  glen.    The  charms  of  its  position  cannot  be 
spoiled  by  all  the  efibrts  which  enterprising  hotel- 
keepers  are  making  to  Europeanise  it.     The  Constant 
appearance  of  English  under  the  Chinese  characters 
on  the  sigrd)oards  of  the  shops,  prevalent  in  Tokio 
and   elsewhere,  extends  even    to    the  villages.     We 
came  across  some  wonderful  examples  of  ■  English  as 
she  is  spoke.'     For  instance,  at  the  entrance  to  the 
grounds  of  the  Naraya  Hotel  is  the  following  notice  : 
'  No  trees  and  any  flowers  permitted  to  take  off  in 
this  gardens.     No  fish  permitted    to  catch   in    this 
ponds.'     A  man  in  the  village  has  a  horse  to  hire. 
On  his  signboard  is  a  drawing  of  a  man  on  horseback, 


THE   ilAKONE    l.AKE 


137 


\' 


and  below  simply  the  words,  *  Lend  horse.'  On 
another  hoard  1  read,  'Fujinei  7)i.  To  let,  the  al^ove- 
iiamed  tea-house,  on  the  top  of  this  liill.  Tiiere 
mount  Fuji  on  tlic  up  and  island  Enoshima  on  the 
down  can  be  seen  when  weather  is  most  splendidly, 
.'.oader,  O-Niuga  '  (leader  being  .Tapancsc  English  for 
owner  or  agent).  Over  a  parcels  delivery  ofiice  near 
a  station  in  T(jkio  was  the  following  :  '  Before  station 
send  at  home  and  every  state.' 

After  the  rain  the  sun  seemed  rapidly  to  bring  out 
the  butterflies  and  to  unfold  the  fern-fronds,  the 
search  for  which  gave  zest  to  our  lambles  throuoh 
these  highland-like  glens,  affording  continual  change 
of  landscape  and  partial  peet)s  of  Fuji  San.  But 
however  numy  hours  we  wandered,  the  natural  hot 
bath  on  our  return  would  rein\igorate  the  most 
wearied.  One  noticed  the  change  of  colour  each  day, 
as  the  trees  rushed  out  into  foliage  under  the  glowing 
sunshine,  and  the  reeking  moisture  of  the  recent  rain- 
fall. One  gentleman  declared  that  he  measured  a 
young  bamboo  before  going  in  to  breakfast,  and  after 
l)reakfast.  It  had  meanwhile  reached  another  button 
of  his  waistcoat;  and  1  (|uite  believe  him.  My 
daughter,  however,  was  inclined  to  suspect  that  he 
had  changed  his  shoes  for  a  thicker  pair  in  the 
meantime  ! 

No  one  can  leave  Miya-no-Shita  with  as  little 
luggage  as  he  entered  it,  for  the  village  street  is 
simply  one  long  bazaar  of  open  shops  for  the  sale,  not 
only  of  old  armour,  antiques,  and  photographs,  but 
more  especially  of  every  kind  of  small  wooden  article, 


1.'58 


RAMBI.KS   IN   JAPAN 


!  I 


'"oHtly  u.lai.I,  tl.o  M,;.M..ra.t..n>  of  whi.h  is  the  ii.dus- 
>'7of  tho,|ishi,,s,nM.lwhi..l,    fur  surpass  in  (inisl. 
-  egaiur,  an.l  in-M-nuity  the  choi.,.st  productions  of 
Nice  or  TuMhnMuv    \\v||s.     Thoy  arc  nil  ,na.|,    f,.<.M, 

tlicd,tlnvntwoo.ls..f  ,|,,,ountry,an<latprioes  the 
mmlcsty  of  whi.-l,  uuuM  .ho.-k  ,l,e  tra,losnu-n  of 
l^mtzorlan.I.      TUr  uiusomc  in.porfunity  and  ^n-acious 

f^T"  "^"  ''""'  '■''"  ''^^  ^ '"■"■'  ■'^•^  ^"^"  P^^-'^  their 
•>'">tl.s  aro    far  n.ore  IrresistiMc  (han  the  doafenincr 

a*lv.rhs..nH.nts  an.l  ..sti-ulatious  of  an  Egyptian  c^ 
m-rian  haxaar. 

lint  w.  must  quit  th.  luxu.i.-s  of  Aliya-no-Shita 

.    u-e  would  see  the  natural  uond.rs  and  beauties  of 
the  n.uuuiain  re-ion  arunn.l.      \Vi,h  hv  ]oss  trouble 
tl.Hn    we   sliould    have    had    at    home    in    a   similar 
armnc,.uu.nt,  after  r.du.-in^  our  imp.diu.onta  to  a 
I'old-a  1   ap,n.,  a  fran.e  of   hotanieal   paper,  and    a 
.satchel,    all    whi.-h   could    easily  be   carried   by  one 
man,  we    despatched    our    heavier    l^.^a^,    by  two 
kuruma  n.en  to  the  nearest  station,  to  be  forwarded 
to  (.ot(Mnba,  whi.h  we  hoped  to  reach  in  a  few  days 
'1'"  men  giviug  us  a  receipt,  on  the  production  of 
winch    we   received   our    luggage   some   days    after 
without  the  slightest  dilHcuIty. 

<»"r  tirst  day's  march  was  to  the  famous  sacred 
village  of  Ilakone,  on  the  edge  of  a  mountain  lake 
some  e.ght  miles  distant  over  a  mountain  path,  takinc; 
with  us  a  man  as  porter  and  guide.  However  he 
soon  got  so  impatient  at  the  time  spent  over  plants 
-f    In.tterlli,.,  whieh    latter  generally  gave  us  the 

snp  m  the    ihi''l>-    I'p-'i)    f-ii--^    1-11       •!  , 

^  ^   '  '''   -'^^'''    ^^    declared  he  must 


)M 


;| 


ill 
■m 


s 


u 

k 

■< 

s: 


t 


TlIK    IIAKONK    LAKK 


141 


i^fl 


< 
n 

o 

a 

u 
(- 

■< 


u 

•< 


1 


Idivo  (loulile  pay  il'  wo  kept  liim  bai-k.  Ah  wn  woro 
not  afraid  now  of  loHim;  our  wnv,  wo  lot  him  no  on. 
Wo  won^  roniiiidcd  that  .lapuii  Ima  alroady  hceonie 
a  limit injr-^rouiil  of  glolM'-trottors  by  mooting  no 
losH  tluin  three  partioH  of  Englishmon,  most  of 
whom  wore  .sensihlo  onouLih  to  ho  pedosti-ians,  though 
three,  \s\\n  ought  to  have  n-maiiiod  iu  Tall  Mall, 
were  hoing  carriod  (h>wn  the  hill  in  kagos,  the  native 
sedan  ohair,  n  mod(!  of  couvoyanoo  th  it  we  felt  was 
only  [)ardojud)lo  iu  the  oaso  of  (h-lioate  hidios.  Tho 
hills  (m  oithoi'  side  were  bare  and  volcanic,  and  tho 
mass  of  dwarf  bamboo  tliiough  which  our  path  lay 
very  monotonous.  But  every  now  and  tiifu,  at  a 
tuiii  in  tho  track,  a  <laint\  littlo  toa-house  would 
arrest  us,  and  we  could  no  mor(!  pass  one  without 
expending  a  fartliing  on  a  cup  of  tea,  tlian  a  toper 
could  resist  a  public  at  the  corner.  Ashi-no-^'u  was 
our  halfway  house,  a  village  of  bathing-houses  and 
nati\('  hotels  lor  tho  hot  sulphur  springs.  The 
valley  here  r  od  with  sulphur  smoke;  the  atmo- 
sphere was  impregnated  with  it.  There  was  not  a 
trace  of  vegetation,  save  tin-  skeletons  of  trees,  and 
the  spiraeas,  hydrangeas,  and  violets,  which  had 
relieved  the  monotony  of  the  bamboo  thickets,  had 
all  disnppeared.  Wo  were  not  tempted  to  bathe 
after  what  we  saw  of  tho  pul)licity  of  the  aldutions. 
On  the  road  beyond  wo  passed  a  colossal  Buddha  in 
an  apse  cut  <Mifc  of  the  basalt  cliff-  the  figure,  a  very- 
beautiful  one,  is  simply  carved,  along  with  the  lotus- 
flower  on  >.hich  the  prophet  sits,  out  of  the  native 
rock,  which  lias  also  been  cut  away  behind  it.     It  is 


i  m 

I'l" 


142 


RAMBLES   IN   JAPAN 


indeed  a  grand  work,  marvellously  impressive  on  the 
lonely,    desolate   mountain-side.       Kows   of    smaller 
Buddhas  lined   the  short  avenue  to  the  shrine,  but 
there  is  no  temple  or  Iniman  habitation  within  sight. 
There  is  an  old    tale    connected  with    the   Tittle 
stream   below,  which   may  be  worth  repeating.      A 
nobleman   travelling  by  night  let  ten  rin  (equal  to 
a  halfpenny)  drop    out  of  his    tinder-case    into  the 
water,  and  then  spent  fifty  rin  in  torches  to  recover 
the  lost  piece  of  money.      When   his  friends  lauirhed 
at  him  for  spending  five  times  as  much  to  recover 
what   he    had    lost,   he  retorted  :    '  Gentlemen,  you 
are   very   foolish,   and    do    not    understaml    political 
economy.      Ynn  have  no  feeling  of  benevolence.      If 
I  had  not  sean-hed  for  tlie  t.Mi-rin  piece,  it  would 
have  been  for  ever  lost,  sunk  at  the  bottom  of  the 
stream.     Now,  the  fifty  rin   uhich  I  have  spent  on 
torches  will  remain  in  cin-ulation  among  the  trades- 
men.   It  is  no  matter  whether  they,  or  I,  or  some  one 
else  has  them,  but  not  a  single  one  of  this  sixty  rin 
has  been  lost,  and  this  is  a  clear  gain  to  the  nation.' 
^^e  see  that  political    economy —whether  it  be   in 
accordance  with  Adam  Smith  or  not,  I  do  not  say- 
is  no  new  science  to  Japan. 

Soon  after  passing  the  image  and  stream  we  had 
our  first  glimpse  of  the  mountain  lake  and  the 
picturesque  ITakone  village  at  its  head,  with  a  fine 
cryptomeria  avenue  for  the  last  mile  of  the  way 
The  hotel  proved  to  be  a  Japanese  house  attemptin.r 
to  ape  English  ways,  and  with  English  prices  spoilt 
by  tourists.     However,  we  Jiad  a  pleasant  airy  room 


^1 

fl 


THE   HAKONE    LAKE 


143 


ml 


;iii(l  wide  balcony  for  the  daytime,  with  the  finest  of 
mat  Hoors,  divitk'd  into  tlu'ce  hy  paper  -walls  for  onr 
hodrooms,  the  beds  being  made  on  the  floor.  Native 
so-called  beds — that  is,  the  soft,  (dean  mat,  and 
futon,  or  wadded  quilt— are  most  welc(mie  after  a 
liard  day's  walk,  but  on  native  wood  pillows  I 
never  could  rest  my  head.  To  attempt  it  suggested 
instantaneously  the  thought  of  King  Charles  on  the 
block,  with  the  head  ready  to  roll  off  on  the  other 
side. 

I  fear  I  shall  sink  in  the  estimation  of  those  of 
my  readers  for  whom  conchology  has  no  charms  when 
I  confess  that  our  first  expedition  was  a  stroll  along 
the  edge  of  the  lake  in  search  of  freshwater  shells 
among  the  scanty  patches  of  reeds  which  occasionally 
fringe  it,  and  amongst  which  we  waded  in  black 
mud.  I  was  stimulated  to  this  by  one  of  the  young 
Englishmen  whom  we  had  met  in  the  morning,  who 
assured  me  he  had  found  on  the  beach  of  the  lake 
a  freshwater  shell  identical  with  the  Melania  of  the 
Sea  of  Galilee.  We  succeeded  in  collectint''  various 
species,  amongst  them  the  one  alluded  to,  but  found, 
as  one  often  does,  that  similarity  is  not  identity. 
We  returned  in  time  to  watch  the  evening  sun  from 
our  balcony,  which  soon  set  behind  Fuji.  The  effect 
was  grand,  for  the  sky  was  cloudless  ;  and  though 
Fuji  must  yield  the  palm  to  the  Peak  of  Teneritfe,  I 
never  there  saw  finer  sunset  colouring.  We  saw  it 
white,  rosy  blush,  pink,  and  finally,  just  at  sunset, 
the  snowcl'id  mo'.int.Min,  with  tlu'  su]\  exactly  behind 
it,  looked  deep  black  in  a  pale  golden  setting. 


■f: 


,il' 


144 


RAMBLES   IN   JAPAN 


The  Ilakoiie  lake  is,  so  far  as  we  can  learn    of 
unknown  cleptb.     It  k,  in  ilict,  an  enormous  nio'un- 
Uun  tarn  over  5,000  feet  above  the  sea-levol.      It  is 
curious  that,  witli  tlie  exception  of  one  very  small 
outlet  at  the  north  end,  there  are  no  streams  from  it. 
On  the  plain  l)clow  are  few  or  no  natural  streams, 
and  it  is  said  that  many  centuries  ago  the  mountain' 
wall  was  tuDnolIed  by  manual  labour,  and  the  upper 
waters  tapped,  and   from   the  rocky  sluices  flows  a 
flood  sufficient  to  irrigate  millions"^  of  acres  of  the 
Suruga  province  ;  and  this  enables  the  inhabitants  to 
raise  the  vast  quantities  of  rice  on  which  the  country 
is  dependent  for  its  very  existence.     Water,  and  a 
sufficient  supply  of  it  to  immerse  the  fields  either  at 
once  or  in  compartments,  is  the  first  necessity  of  the 
rice-farmer.    As  rice  nmst  be  sown,  transplanted,  and 
grown  undei'  water,  immense  areas  of  irrigated  fields 
are  necessary.     A  proof  of  the  very  early  dvilisation 
of  Japan  is  found  in    the    stupendous   tunnels   an-^ 
the  dams  by  wliieh  the  mountain  streams  have  bee.i 
blocked  for  the  purpose  of  irrigating  the  lower  plains, 
and    by    which    the    noisy,    foaming    torrents    have 
l)een  changed  into  silent  and  useful,  if  unromantic, 
servants.     These    huge   reserA'oirs   are  tapped  when 
required,  and   conveyed,  often  for  miles,  along  arti- 
ficial canals  or  ditches,  each  field  securing  a  su^rply  as 
the  stream  passes,  by  little  locks  ;  whilst  in  the  lower 
plains  trcadwheels  are  used  to  pump  the  water  on  to 
each    e<mq)artment.      All    this    is  regulated    by  law 
most  rigidly  enforced.     To  steal  a  neighbour's  water 
was  formerly  a  capital  ofi'ence. 


M 


THE   IIAKONE   LAKE,    FIVE  TUOISAXD   FKET   AHOVE    SEA-LEVEL. 


ii 


I    M 


mi 


:§ 


■>m 


THE   HAKONE   LAKE 


147 


Just  on  the  right  hand  of  our  hotel  a  little 
peninsula  runs  out  into  the  lake,  on  whi'jh  is  a 
modest  though  extensive  building,  one  of  the  country 
palaces  of  the  emjieror,  and  which  he  generally 
visits  for  a  fortnight  in  summer.  The  grounds  had 
only  recently  been  laid  out,  and  their  beauty  was 
future,  not  present.  However,  uidike  the  Egyptian 
Khedive,  the  JNIikado  of  Japan  refuses  to  waste  his 
subjects'  money  on  impciial  residences.  Thus  he 
declined,  shortly  after  the  beginning  of  the  present 
war,  to  have  a  pahice  built  for  his  reception  at 
Hiroshima.  By  his  refusal  he  intensified  the  enthu- 
siastic loyalty  of  his  people. 

From  our  lake  dwelling  at  Hakone,  for  such  in  the 
full  sense  our  pile-supported  chalet  was,  we  made  an 
early  start  to  the  other  end  of  the  lake,  a  row  of 
about  six  miles,  with  Fuji  in  front  the  whole  way. 
The  scenery  of  the  upper  end  of  the  lake  was  much 
bolder  than  at  the  lower,  the  pine  forest  coming  down 
to  the  water's  edge,  many  of  the  peeps  recalling 
Berwentwater.  Our  goal  was  Gotemba,  a  little  town 
from  which  we  planned  to  explore  Fuji  and  its 
neighbourhood,  and  we  took  with  us  a  Hakone  man 
with  a  long  bamboo  to  carry  our  ba<Torao-e.  We 
stepped  on  shore  from  our  boat,  prepared  for  a 
twenty  miles'  mountain  walk,  with  a  delightful  sense 
of  independence. 

As  we  wound  up  the  narrow  path  we  very  soon  lost 
all  traces  of  forest,  and  rapidly  reached  a  succes- 
sion of  rolling  downs,  bare  and  desolate  but  for  a  few 
unwholesome-looking  tufts  of  rush.     We  were  here 

L  2 


Si 


148 


RAMBLKS    IN    JAPAN 


quite  out  of  the  u.sual  tourists'  beat,  an.l   at  a  tea- 
house at  the  top  of  the  first  bare  ri.loe_r„,  whatever 
else  there  is  not,  there  is  everywhere  a  tea-house- 
we  prudently  provisioned  oursehos  for  the  day  with 
two  parcels  of  cold  boih^d  riec,  an.l  half  a  <lo>cen  hard- 
f'oiled   eggs.       After    passing    through    some   weary 
))amboo  scrub  we  reached  Ubago,  a  collection  of  hotels 
and    hot   sulphur   water    baths,    and    the    whole   air 
saturated  with  sulphur.     The  baths  are  long  buildings 
of  one  storey  round  S(|uare8,  with  the  steaming  baths 
open  m  front,  each  tenanted  by  naked  bathers  of  both 
sexes  sitting  promiscuously  in  the  hot  water,  open  to 
all  passers-by.      In  this  respect  there  is  certainly  a 
want  of  decency  in  Japan,  but  it  is,  so  far  as  I  saw 
an  exception  ;  for,  taken  on  the  whole,  there  is  less 
to  be  seen   that  otfen.ls  one's  sense  of  delicacy  and 
l)ropriety  in  Japan  than  in  any  other  Eastern  country 
I  have  visited. 

After  resting  for  a  (piarter  of  an  hour  on  a  mat,  of 
course  sipping  green  tea,  we  started  up  a  steep  path 
through  forest  with  an  undergrowth  of  sweet-scented' 
white  dwarf  daphne,  which  perfumed  the  surroundino- 
atmosphere.       There   was  also  a   dwarf  pyrus,  with 
brilliant  red  bloom  ;  c^uantities  of  an  or<-hid,  promising 
.  be  a  gigantic  cypripedium,  but   which  does  no^t 
riovver   till   July,    an<I    various    other    to    us   botanic 
novelties.     Crossing  the  next  ridge,   we  found  our- 
selves  in    a   steep   desolate    valley,    with    ash-heap 
sulphur  hillocks,  steam    holes,  and   roaring    boihn<r 
water  tumbling  under  the  crust  upon  which  we  trod° 
altogether  a  weird  scene  of  desolation,  for  here  there 


i|  71 


I 

I 

'3; 


I  I 

i 


THE   HAKONE    LAKE 


151 


f 


3 


are  no  sulphur  pl.mts  like  those  which  characterise 
the  simihir  sulpluuic  springs  and  deposits  of  (jallirrhoe 
in  the  land  of  Moab.      It  is  called  Oji-oku,  or  the 
Oreat  Hell,  but  was  named  last  year,  in  honour  of 
the  empeior's  visit,  Owa  kidani,  or  the  valley  of  the 
,-reat  boiling.     Both  names  are  well-earned.     It  was 
ii   splendid  opportunity   for    investigating    volcanic 
phenomena  on  a  small  scale,  but  we  were ''repeatedly 
cautioned  by  our  guide  to  beware  where  we  trod,  as 
more  than  one  traveller  have  lost  their  lives  through 
the  edges  of  the  thin  crust,  which  is  cracked  in  every 
direction,  and  sometimes  has  wide  fissures. 

We  reached  another  crest,  and  lo,  a  complete  trans- 
formation scene.      In  place  of  the  sulphurous  deso- 
lation   and    mephitic  steam,   we   found    an   almost 
obliterated   track,   under  thickets  of  deutzia,  azalea, 
and  other  flowering  shrubs  of  every  colour,  the  azaleas 
predominating.     The  llora  of  this  neighbourhood  is 
in   many    respects   very    peculiar,  containing    many 
plants  which  we  never  found  elsewhere.      Another 
crest  to  cross,  and  we  had  to  ])rusli  through  bamboo 
brake,  and  across  a  flat  valley  for  three  miles,  highly 
cultivated  and  studded  with  villages,  till  we  faced  a 
wooded  and  apparently  perpendicular  mountain. 

How  were  we  to  get  up  ?  '  There,'  replies  our 
coohe,  as  he  rests  the  pole  with  his  burden  cleverly 
balanced  on  his  long  bamboo  alpenstock.  'Not 
promising,'  and  we  looked  at  each  other,  and  zigzagged 
up  the  side  by  a  series  of  sloping  notches  cut  in'' the 
cliff.  However,  when  we  at  length  reached  the 
summit  of  the  Otoml  Toge  Pass  we  were  rewarded  for 


1 1  <■ 


Ir' 


I 


w 


^31 


152 


RAMBLES   IN   JAPAN 


i .  ;  ti 


all  our  scramble.  Standing  on  the  ridge  we  could,  at 
f!ie  same  moment,  look  over  the  plain  we  had  crossed 
an  hour  before  into  the  lake  shining  at  its  further 
end,  and  on  the  other  side  over  the  range,  the  vast 
plain  through  which  the  Tokaido  runs,  stretching 
unl)r()kcn  to  tiie  slopes  of  Fuji,  which  stood  out  in 
undinnned  splendour  without  a  cloud,  his  snow  gilded 
by  the  afternoon  sun.  Straight  ahead  were  the 
snow-capped  granite  peaks  of  the  pro\'inces  of  Hida 
and  Echu.  The  plain,  thick  with  villages,  cop[)ice8, 
fields,  avenues,  and  trees  of  all  sorts,  looked  more  like 
Kent  or  Surrey  than  Jipan  as  I  had  yet  seen  it.  And 
this  impression  of  its  English  character  was  soon  inten- 
sified when,  gaily  tripping  down  the  mountain  side, 
ray  dauglitcr  said  she  had  never  before  trod  on  turf  all 
the  years  she  had  been  in  Japan.  We  were  delighted 
with  the  tall,  pale,  purple  daisy — at  least  it  seemed 
to  me  a  true  Bellls,  but,  if  not,  was  certainly  an  aster 
very  like  it,  met  with  by  us  here  for  the  first  time, 
and  which  covers  the  whole  me;i(low-like  slopes. 

This  was  the  first  district  I  had  found  where  sheep 
might  be  reared,  for  there  is  no  dwarf  bamboo,  as 
there  is  everywhere  else,  a  plant  which  is  ftital  to 
pasturing  sheep,  and  which  is  a  simple  explanation  of 
their  absence  in  the  country.  At  the  little  tea-house 
on  the  top  where  we  were  glad  to  rest,  we  met 
several  fellow-countrymen  who  had  come  in  the  other 
direction  with  kagos  or  chairs,  and  who  did  not 
exchange  salutations  with  mere  pedestrians.  I  took 
the  opportunity  of  skinning  a  curious  little  black 
shrew^  mouse  with  a  bushy  tail  which  I  had  obtained 


f 


THE    HAKONE    LAKE 


153 


(! 


in  the  bamboo  brnke.     When  we  hiul  rcuclied  the 
bottom  of  the  rurif^e,  we  wcrcs  rather  (li8U[)poiiited  to 
find  that  we  had  still  more  th.ui  four  miles  to  walk  ; 
yet   who  ttould    be  tired    as   we  trod    those    narrow 
Devonshire  Lines,  ceaselessly  using  our  butterHy-nct 
under  the  long  hedges  of  eanu-llia,  the  falling  crimson 
blooms    of  whieli  absolutely  smothered    the   smooth 
path    which    they   ovf^rhung  ?       In    fact,    here   the 
camellia   took  the  place  of  the  hawthorn,   and   the 
azaleas  of  the  apple  trees  of  Southern  England.     At 
length  we  came  upon  (jiotemba,  which  is  one  lon^- 
street,  along  which  we  trudged  for  niorc;  than  a  mile 
before  we  found  quarters  at  a  thoroughly  native  inn, 
exquisitely  clean  as  usual,   but   without   a    solitary 
chair  or  table.     We  inquired  their  charges,  and  after 
a  little  bargaining  closed  for  a  yen  and  a  half,  or 
five  shillings,  a  day  for  the  two  of  us,  includin  >•  three 
native  meals,  as  well  as  apartments  and  attendan(;e. 
On  asking  for  a  hot  bath,  I  was  ushered  to  one  in  the 
large  kitchen,  in  wliicli  a  man  was  already  stewing, 
and  created  much  surprise  by  my  fastidicjusness  in 
(!  'dining  to  share  the  bath  with  him,  though  I  was 
assured  there  was  room  for  two  in  it  I 

Eleven  hours  on  foot  made  us  thoroughly  appreciate 
our  couches,  though  they  were  only  the  mat-Hooring, 
with  futons  under  and  over  us,  and  others  rol'  d 
up  for  a  pillow.  We  slept  well  in  spite  of  the 
noises,  f.-r  the  hotel  was  extensive,  and  there  was 
only  a  sliding  paper  wall  between  the  rooms,  while 
visitors  seemed  to  be  coming  and  going  throughout 
the  night.     I  was  aroused  during  my  first  sleep  by 


154 


RAMHI.es    in    JAF'AN 


tlu!  visit  of  a  policonuin,  who,  haviiij,'  hoard  that 
Ibreignors  hud  arrived,  hurriedly  cuiiic  to  examine 
Miir  passport,  and  insisttMl  upon  seeiuLj  my  dauu;l»t('i', 
from  wiioni  lie  wanted  explanations  as  to  liow  or  why 
wo  hud  such  an  unusually  extensive  one.  ^Vhen  his 
curiosity  and  scnij)les  were  satisfietl,  he  was  of  course 
eH'usive  in  his  politeness.  His  visit  reuiiiuh'd  mi;  of 
two  thin<j;s  which  I  have  often  observed  in  JiH)au  — 
their  absolute  iiidillerence  to  times  and  seasons,  and 
the  amusing  self-importance  of  the  lilth)  otlicials,  far 
superior  to  Ihnubledom  ut  home.  If  a  message  has 
to  be  delivered,  whether  uninipoiianl  or  not,  the 
time  of  day  matters  not.  If  the  mail  luis  arrived  and 
the  postman  is  up,  he  will  rouse  you  to(h'li\(T  letters 
at  2  A.M.,  especially  if  one  of  them  is  registered  and 
must  be  receipted  wuii  ink,  and  you  happen  to  have 
no  ink  in  your  bedroom.  In  red  tape  they  surpass 
France  and  e(|ual  Kussia.  A  friend  of  mine  was 
travelling  with  i  })assport  which  authorised  him  to 
visit  certain  places  in  a  particular  order.  He  wished 
to  vary  this  order,  which  had  becji  filled  in  without 
his  being  consulted,  but  was  informed  in  a  certain 
town  that  he  nmst  go  west  rather  than  east,  as  he 
wished.  Expostulaticm  was  in  vain,  but  after  waiting 
a  few  days,  when  the  otlicials  saw  he  was  an  awkward 
customer  who  intended  to  hold  tirni,  they  informed 
him,  that  though  it  was  their  duty  to  compel  him  to 
leave  the  city  liy  the  west  road,  yet  aftei-  [uirsuing 
it  for  a  mile  or  two  he  would  lind  a  cross-country 
l)ath  which  would  take  him  in  the  other  direction. 
As  an   instance  of  the  Japanese  love  of  kei'ping  to 


I  i 


TKK    UAKONK   LAKB: 


155 


! 


tilt!  It'ttcr  of  Mio  law,  tlio  f<)ll<»winf]f  nmy  bo  'iiiotiHl. 
A  certain  hrnlLio.  was  fniiii'l  unsafe  tor  heavy 
tiallie,  thou,!-!!  still  avaiial)le  us  a  foot-hridge,  and  a 
iiotiee  was  aeeordiniily  posted,  'No  animals  alhiwed 
to  eross  this  hrid^^e.'  After  a  time  a  formal  com- 
plaint was  made  that  it  was  inipossihle  to  insist  on 
this  order  beinij  obeyed,  for  rats  would  still  continue 
to  cross.  A  solemn  eouelave  was  held,  at  which  it 
was  decided  thai  it  was  impossible  to  prevent  the 
rats  hasiiiif  their  free  course,  and  yet  tliat  dis- 
oliedienec  to  an  ollieial  edict  was  not  to  be  toh-rated, 
and  therefore  the  wordin,!^  of  the  noiice  was  altered 
to  run,  'No  larLj-e  aiiiiiial  allowed  to  cro>.A  this  l)ridse.' 
F.ven  then  )li('  iiinlcdiitents  wen;  not  quite  satisfied, 
f  ••  w  here  was  the  line  to  be  drawn  between  larije  and 
Kn  !'.ll  auiuials  ? 

At  (Jotemba,  as  at  ;dl  Japanese  inns,  tlie  lull  of 
fare  varii  not  for  brenkfast,  dinner,  and  supper. 
We  had  tisli  soup  in  a  little  iMctpier  basin,  the  tloat- 
in,U  bits  of  fish  h;t,vin<i;  to  })e  eauulit  with  chopsticks — 
to  a  raw  hand  like  iu\self  quite  as  serious  an  affair 
as  the  orijxinal  capture  in  the  stream.  Perhaps 
another  kind  of  soup,  ni.ule  with  seaweed,  vege- 
tables, or  (hied  lish,  might  come  instead.  There 
were  gr(>en  pickles  in  a  lacquer  saucer ;  raw  eggs, 
probably  having  been  kept  long  enough  to  have  a 
tiivour,  a  iresh  ecrg  })eing  considered  very  insipid. 
When  near  the  coast  we  should  have  had  varieties 
of  sliell-fish,  sea-urchins,  and  half-cooked  octopus,  or 
sea-fish.  But  here  tliese  were  represented  by  delicious 
mountain  trout,  nicely  baked.     To  such  condiments 


m 


hi  ,1 


HI 


'  1 

IH: 


156 


RAMBLES   IN   JAPAN 


l»fil; 


.iiii 


at  a  wedding-feast  or  at  the  new  year  would  be  added 
a   lobster,  emblematic   of  long  life,  with    the  wish, 
'  May  you  live  to  such  an  age  that  your  back  is  as 
bent  as  a  lobster's  ! '     All  these  are  served  to  each 
person  on  a  small  square  lacquer  tray,  with  feet  a 
few  inches  high.     In  front  of  us  was  always  placed  a 
small  wooden  tub  with  a  lid,  filled  with  steamino-  rice 
and  served   with  a  flat  wooden  ladle,  not  unlike  a 
painter's  spatula,  with  which  each  from  time  to  time 
refilled  at  pleasure  the  little  rice  bowl.     As  all  the 
dishes  are  served  on  the  little  trays  at  once,  the  chief 
duty  of  the  waitress  is  to  keep  the  rice-bowl  supplied; 
in  fact,  rice  is  the  substitute  not  only  for  bread,  but 
l)ractica]ly  for  all  our  food  save  meat  and  vegetables. 
There  are  no  sweets  at  the  regular  meals,  but  green 
tea   always    follows,  and,  if  specially  ordered,  sake, 
served  hot  in  a  long-necked  porcelain  flask.     This 
sake  is  prepared  from  rice  malt  with  very  little  hopM, 
and  resembles  much  the  heavy  muddy  beer  of  an  in- 
ferior country  public-house.     Cold,  it  is  certainly  not 
palatable,  and  when  hot  only  tolerable  to  my  taste. 

More  difficult  than  the  management  of  chopsticks, 
at  wliich  I  soon  became  a  tolerable  adept,  was  the 
sitting  on  the  fioor  to  eat,  and  I  never  during  my 
sojourn  succeeded  in  — I  will  not  say  gracefully,  but 
even  in  any  way  witli  ease  or  comfort~-accommo- 
dating  myself  to  the  native  habits  in  this  respect, 
and  soon  l)egan  to  feel  that  a  room  furnished  with 
!)ut  one  chair  and  table  was  a  luxurious  one.  If  I 
rolled  up  a  futon  and  sat  on  it  my  tray  was  fai' 
below  me,  and  either  a  more  supple  back  or  chop- 


11 


hi 


,-  r  ■ ' 


it  e  H  •. 


■nf'J' 


i-lI.GRIM  GOING    LI-   FUHLAMA. 


THE    HAKONE   LAKE 


159 


sticks  of  abnormal  leugth  were  needed  ;  or  if  I 
reversed  the  order  of  things  and  mounted  my  dinner 
tray  on  this  temporary  seat,  what  was  I  to  do  on  the 
floor  with  my  aching  legs,  that  refused  to  l)e  tucked 
under  me,  as  those  of  my  little  Japanese  friends  have 
learned  to  be  from  babyhood  ? 

Though  the  ascent  of  Fuji  at  this  early  season 
of  the  year  was  impossible,  we  determined  to  reach 
the  forest  which  covers  its  lower  slopes  and  penetrate 
as  far  as  the  snow  would  permit  us.  We  made  an 
early  start  for  the  foot  of  the  mountain  in  jinrikshas, 
or,  as  they  arc  more  properly  in  Japan  called,  kuru- 
mas,  zigzagging  for  several  miles  through  narrow 
lanes  with  camellia  hedges  laden  with  bloom.  At 
length  we  emerged  from  this  Kentish  scenery  into 
paddy  fields,  crossing  countless  little  brooks,  fed  by 
the  mountain  snow,  hardly  deep  enough  to  be  called 
dells,  but  the  sides  of  which  were  clad  wdth  over- 
hanging azaleas,  red,  white,  yellow,  purple,  and  pink, 
and  many  other  choice  shrubs,  while  the  black  water 
ousel,  the  representative  :  '^e  familiar  dipper  of  our 
northern  streams,  darted  up  and  down  the  brook,  or 
briskly  jerked  his  tail  as  he  lighted  on  a  stone  in  the 
water.  The  formers  were  busy  preparing  the  fields 
for  planting  out  the  rice.  Kice-growing  is  toil  indeed, 
and  has  passed  into  a  Japanese  proverb  for  hard  or 
weary  labour.  Men  were  wading  knee-deep  in  the 
black  mud,  leading  horses  or  oxen  attached  to  a 
long  rrtke,  which  does  duty  for  a  plough,  and  pounds 
the  soaked  clods  until  the  whole  l>ecome3  reduced  to 
the  consistency  of  pea  soup,  and  is  then  ready  for  the 


ipr 


1!'    'I 
III 


M 


160 


RAMBLES   IN   JAi'AN 


ii'" 


m 


young  plants.  Ascending  from  tlic  rice  fields,  the 
road  and  soil  were  alike  formed  of  black  volcanic  ash 
like  a  Durham  pit-heap. 

Arrived  at  Suhashiri,  the  last  village  before  the 
ascent,  we  found  the  place  en  fete,  and  had  the 
opportunity  of  seeing  at  our  leisure  the  humours  of 
a  Japanese  country  fair. 

The  village  is  a  long  one,  over  half  a  mile,  and 
UG  the  upper   end    terminates   in  a   Shinto    temple, 
embowered  in  dense  cryptomeiia  grove  and  avenue. 
The  main  street  is  wide,  and  planted  with  flowering 
trees  on   both  sides.     Between   these,  bamboo  tops 
witii   their  featheiy  foliage   had  been  set  all  along, 
fastened  with  long  lines  of  twine,  and  covered  like 
a  (Jhristmas-tree  with  bits  of  red  and  white  paper. 
All    the  women  and    children  were  in  their   bright 
holiday   dresses;    the    streets   were   lined   with    the 
stalls  of  vendors  of  all   kinds  of  goods,  from  large 
mats  to  dolls'  clothes.     Cheapjacks  were  advertising 
their  wares  ;   some  strolling  players  had  a  platform 
mounted  on  rollers,  and  wore  performing  free  gratis ; 
on  a  more  elevated  stage  pretty  dancing  girls  were 
performing  a  Japanese  opera  and   ballet  combined  ; 
crowds  of  country  folk,  with  bales  of  rice  straw  and 
mats,  as  well  as  all  kinds  of  farm  produce  to  sell, 
combined  business  with  pleasure.     There  were  penny 
peeps  for  one  rin  (one-tenth  of  a  halfpenny) ;  a  grand 
model  of  Fuji  on  a  barrow ;  Punch  whacking  Judy 
exactly  as  he  does  elsewhere,  and  Toby  by  his  side. 
There  w^re  more  horses   assembled  than  I  had  yet 
seen  in  Japan.     It  was  indeed    the  village  feast  of 


THE   HAKONE   LAKE 


161 


th(3  olden  time,  with  all  the  qujiint  Japanese  sur- 
roundings. Paper  lanterns  lined  the  avenue  to  the 
temple  preparatory  for  a  great  illumination  at  night. 
Here  we  found  a  grand  service  proceeding.  The 
Shinto  priests  vest  and  revest  in  public,  and  con- 
tinually change  their  coloured  stoles.  There  was  an 
empty  shi'ine,  with  the  two  long  strips  of  cut  white 
paper  hanging  in  fnmt.  The  ritual  was  very  moderate, 
hut  we  were  unable  to  understand  the  chantings  and 
recitations  of  which  the  service,  performed  by  the 
priests  alone,  consisted. 

At  lunch  in  the  village  inn  fresh  mountain  trout 
and  egg  soup  were  welcome  delicacies,  and  in  con- 
sideration for  our  foreign  weakness  our  hostess  found 
two  chairs,  which  were  indeed  appreciated.  From 
the  village  in  the  afternoon  we  wandered  on  over 
volcanic  ashes  through  a  thin  wood,  and  then  for 
two  hours  mounted  through  the  forest.  I  got  near 
the  e(lo;e  of  the  snow-line,  or  at  least  to  the  snow 
lying  under  the  pine  trees  as  yet  untouched  by  the 
spring  sun,  and  in  a  small  open  space  in  the 
middle  of  the  forest,  filled  with  flowering  shrubs  and 
entirely  secluded,  had  a  splendid  opportunity  for 
watching  some  of  the  rarest  birds  of  Japan  and 
noting  their  habits.  It  seemed  to  be  the  rendezvous 
of  song-birds,  as  I  sat  completely  concealed  by 
the  foliage  of  an  evergreen  shrub.  The  beautiful 
narcissu  ■  flycatcher  took  its  perch  on  a  twig  within 
a  yard  of  my  head ;  the  Siberian  blue-tail,  and,  best 
of  all,  the  lovely  Japanese  waxwing,  fearlessly  hopped 
about  in  pursuit  of  the  small  butterflies  ;  the  Siberian 

M 


i-l 


slV 


162 


RAMBLES   IN   JAPAN 


10        I 


l.lackbird   with   its   white   beJiy,  and   the  ],]m-k  and 
white  ousel  {Merula  canUs)  perched  at  the   opposite 
end  of  the    openin^nr,    entered    as   competitors   in    a 
singing  match,  while  many  a  warbler  whistled  and 
titmouse  .-hirp-'d  unseen.     It  was  an  hour's  ornitho- 
logical   education   such    as   I   have    rarely   had,  and 
thougli   I   was  not  able   to  pay  my  respects  to  the 
Lady  of  Fuji  in  her  crater  at  the  summit,  as  every 
pilgrim  ought,  I  was  amply  rc^varded  by  fbe  fruits 
of  my  pilgrimage. 

It  is  interesting  to  note  thai  as  we  have  retained 
the  ancient  British  names  of  our  rivers  and  of  many  of 
our  hill..,  so  the  name  of  Fuji  Juis  no  meaning  m  the 
vernacular  but  is  kindred  to  the  Ainu  word  for  fire 
mountain,   handed  down    from    the    time   \vhen   the 
.iboriginal  Ainu  inhabited  tbe  land.     It  is  held  to  be 
the    residence   of  a   goddess,    Fuji-sen-gen,    and   is, 
therefore,  a  sacred  mountain  and  place  of  pilgrimage' 
The  legend  says  that  Fuji  arose  in  a  night,  and  that 
at  the  same  time  Lake  Biwa  was  hollowed  out,  and 
tradition  adds  that  this  was  about  the  year  330  b.c. 
There  are  historic  records  of  eruptions  from  799  a.d., 
and  the  last  of  any  importan(;e  was  in    1707  a.d.' 
when  the  hump  on  the  south  side  of  the  mountain' 
was  formed.     In  this  eruption  Tokio  itself  was  covered 
with  six  inches  of  ashes.     At  present  iha  only  sign 
of  activity  is  a  little  steam  and  smoke  from  cracks 
close  to  the  crater  on  the  side  facing  Subashiri.     We 
only  ascended  about  4000  feet,  but  the  forest  and 
thicket  extend  3000  feet  higher. 

As  an  illustration  of  the  quickness  and  imitative 


I!''  4 


THE   MAKONE   LAKE 


163 


powers  of  the  people,  I  may  mention  an  incident  of 
this  day's  lamble.  I  had  been  followed  to  the  forest 
by  two  men,  who  always  kept  me  in  view.  It  seems 
that  one  of  them  hui  learned  from  our  kuruma  men 
that  we  had  been  butterfly-hunting.  They  had 
followed  our  example,  but  were  too  shy  to  accost 
us,  though  they  told  our  men.  When  invited,  they 
summoned  courage  at  last  to  come  to  me,  and  ottered 
me  about  a  dozen  butterflies  which  they  had  caught, 
and  folded  in  triangular  bits  of  paper,  exactly  as  I 
had  done.  They  gracefully  offered  me  the  fruits  of 
tlieir  cliaso,  and  when  I  accepted  and  thanked  them, 
giving  them  a  two-sen  piece,  they  beamed  with 
delight,  and  we  each  bowed  to  the  ground.  The 
men  evidently  enjoyed  the  pleasure  of  gratifying  a 
stranofer. 

Another  instance  of  graceful  courtesy.  At  a 
little  farmhouse,  as  we  were  returning  in  the 
evening,  the  blaze  of  azaleas  and  the  neatness  of  a 
garden  arrested  us  for  a  moment.  As  we  stopped  to 
admire,  an  old  woman  came  out  and  insisted  on  fillino- 
my  daughter's  arms  with  gorgeous  branches  of  bloom. 
She  reciprocated  by  handing  a  picture-card  and  a 
tract,  and  we  discovered  that  the  woman  was  a 
( 'hristiaii,  and  cousin  of  one  of  our  kuruma  men. 


Hlfl 


M  2 


.J 

iff 


^1 

'41 


IG4 


HAMIiLEa   IN   JAPAN 


CTTAPTER   V 


NAGOYA 


The  next  day  we  took  tlio  train  from  Gotcmha  to 
Nagoya,  17G  miles  further  on,  and  the  fourth  city  of 
.-apan  in  population,  350,000,  a  principal  seat  of  the 
porcelain  manufa.-ture.      Here  the  Canadian  branch 
of  our  Churcli   has  a  mission,  supported  by  Wyr-lif 
College,  Toronto.     The  journey  was  accomplished  in 
eight  hours,  through  a  rich,  fertile  plain,  the  most 
extensive  in  the  country,  thickly  peopled  an<l  well- 
wooded.     Part  of  our  route  lay  close  to  the  sea,  and 
we  crossed  the  mouths  of  two  rivers,  wide  and  shallow, 
by  trestle  bridges,  each  nearly  a  mile  long.     We  had 
among  our  fellow-passengers  Bishop  Bickersteth,  who 
was  going  on  beyond  us.    We  had  also  in  our  carriage 
a  native  lady  of  very  winning  and  refined  appearanc^e 
who  soon   introduced   herself  to  my  daughter  as  a 
Christian  from   Osaka.      Three  officers  alsc  entered 
the  carriage,  one  of  whom,  a  very  gentlemanlv  man, 
the  head  of  the  police  at  Nagoya,  spoke  English,  and 
told  me  he  knew  our  missionaries  there.     He  told  me 
he  felt  very  much  complimented  by  finding  that  I 
smoked  the  light  tobacco  of  the  country,  which,  he 
said,  most  foreigners  despised.     At  a  roadside  station 
luncheon  boxes  were  purchased.     For  ten  sen,  that 
ia  fivepence,  I  had  handed  to  me  a  beautifully-made 


NAOOYA 


165 


i  H, 


emha  to 
li  city  of 
t  of  the 
t  braiK'l] 
'  Wyrlif 
islied  in 
he  most 
1(1  well- 
sea,  and 
shallow, 
We  had 
th,  who 
carriage 
'arance, 
iT  as  a 
entered 
V  man, 
sh,  and 
old  me 
that  I 
ich,  he 
station 
1,  that 
'^-made 


oblong  chip  box  with  a  lid,  full  of  rice  ;  a  pair  of  new 
wooden  chop-sticks,  still  joined  at  one  end,  to  show 
they  had  never  been  used,  in  a  pretty  paper  envelope  ; 
and  another  similar  box,  done  up  in  pictures! [uc  [)aper, 
c(mtaining  nine  different  articles  of  food,  arranged 
like  a  bouquet,  with  strips  of  green  bamboo  leaf,  cut 
with  scissors,  to  separate  them.  It  was  a  perfect  gem 
of  Japanese  art  and  neatness.  Among  the  items  were 
a  very  small  boiled  cuttle-fish,  which  was  very  good, 
white  beans  cooked  with  sugar,  boiled  seaweed,  pickle, 
a  mushroom,  a  tiny  rice-Hour  pudding,  a  rice-flour 
sponge  cake,  a  lump  of  Turkish  delight,  and  two 
vegetables,  to  me  unknown.  It  is  needless  to  say 
that  the  dishes  were  microscopical,  and  were  not  very 
much  larger  than  tlie  dolls'  feasts  to  which  grand- 
(thildren  invite  me.  We  had  a  kuruma  ride  of  two 
miles  through  the  vast  city  from  the  station  of 
Nagoya  to  the  hospitable  roof  of  our  Canadian  friends, 
the  Kev.  J.  C.  and  j\lrs.  Robinson. 

Nagoya  is  full  of  interest,  ancient  and  modern, 
historical  and  artistic.  The  central  feature,  which 
catches  the  eye  from  every  part  of  the  city,  is  the 
castle,  probably  the  finest  specimen  of  an  old  Daimio's 
residence  in  the  country,  and  as  now  it  is  government 
property,  it  is  one  of  the  fe\\  that  has  been  carefully 
preserved.  It  is  the  Alnwick  Castle  of  Japan,  and 
was  held  by  the  first  peer  of  the  realm  next  to  the 
Shogun.  The  founder  of  the  house  was  the  son  oi 
lyeyasu.  The  castle  was  built  in  IGIO;  the  outer 
enceinte  is  verv  extensive,  and  is  ocunied  bv  the 
garrison,    but   the    central    citadel   and  donjon-keep 


11 


I  GO 


KAMHLES    IN    JAPAN 


<kmii 


are  indeed  a  nuiivellous  woo(I,>n  pile,  and  a  grand 
specimen  of  luirhuric  .splcudoiir. 

A  moat,  still  full  of  wutcr,  surrouiMls  the  outer 
wall,  f,„nu.>d  of  n.iohty  cyclopeun  masonry,  all  the 
walls  sloping  and  slightly  curving  outwards.  Then 
there^  is  a  wid<>  open  space  with  gardens,  orchards, 
and  fields,  and  here  are  the  extensive  barracks  and 
parade  ground,  where  formerly  were  the  (juartcrs  of 
'^  prince's  Samurai  and  the  olHces  of  the  province. 
Within  this  is  an  iiiner  moat,  now  dry,  and  inhabited 
by  a  small  herd  of  deer,  and  above  it  rises  another 
eyclopean  wull.  surmounted  by  wooden  battlements. 

The  cenuo  keep,  a  massive  structure  of  five  stories 
supported  by  stone  walls,  but  within  entirely  woo.len, 
is  surrounded  by  a  bewildering  number  of  ap.irtmentsi 
of  one  or  two  stories,  of  whi.h,  alas !  the  furniture' 
has   all   disa])poared,  though    the   exquisitely  carved 
and  gilded  ceilings  find  the  partitioned  panels  of  each 
(•haml)ei-  are  decorated  with  very  fine  paintings,  as 
are  the  alcoves  and  the  wooden  doors  between  'the 
different  sets  of  apartments.     Each  room  is  generji'lv 
devoted  to  a  distinct  subject  painted  in  panels.    Thu^ 
•we  have  the   history  of  the  tiger   in  one    room,  in 
another  of  the  leopard,  in  another  pheasants,  of  which 
five  diflerent  species  are  ndmirably  depicted;    deer, 
hawks,    squirrels,    woodpeckers,    etc.,  etc.,    have   all 
their  separate    ipartments.      Others  are  devoted  to 
.ricieu.  Japan.     ■  life,  cnil  and  military.     Tn  one,  rH 
their  games  are  beautifully  painted  in  a  series  of 
tT^;elve;  in  anotli-u-  a  painting  of  horse-racing  occupies 
0  whole  side,  and  among  the  spectators  stand  two 


imgmimm»~" 


— -Ki 


NAGOYA  OASTLB 


1^  i 


i".y- 


PI! 

lit, '  ff  I 


p 


illfi 


.NA(J(>YA 


169 


immistfikahlo  r)utiliiiitMi.      I 


II  iiiiutnci    i   »<»unmni»'iit 


i  i([»..  ic.l,  wlii'ic  u  .liipaiicsc  lady  is  cvidoiitlv  the 
•  (lUH'ii  ..r  iH'auty.      Aiiotlirr,  tlio  riclicst  a[)artiiicnl of 

tllf   will. If       the    ..IH!    k('I»t     lur    the    list"  of   t  llO  Sil()<''UIi 

wlu'ii  he  sjioiild  visit  till'  prince  i>  (U-wratcd  with 
t'aiic.y  Cliiiicse  scenery,  wliilc  in  ihc  alcove  are  power- 
liil  (  ai\  inus  of  cranes,  tortoises  and  coclvs,  the  latter 
perchiMJ  on  a  drnni.  In  .•ne  of  tiie  l.inl  panels  in 
another  room  is  a  hole  cut  ont  exactly  the  shape  of  a 
swallow,  the  myth  l.ein,<r  that  the  painter  made  so 
perfect  a  swallow  that  it  Hew  away  in  the  nii-ht  and 
left  its  place  vacant  ! 

At  the  bottom  of  the  ke(>p  is  a  very  deep  and 
inexhaustible  well.  It  is  dillicnlt  to  describe  the 
massive  i)iles  of  wood  employed  in  this  lm,oe  struc- 
ture. The  boaids  of  the  corridors  ai'e  so  arrani-cd 
tliab  it  is  im[)ossible  to  walk  on  them  without  their 
creakin,<,s  and  so  warning  is  given  of  an\'  one's 
approach.  Kach  storey  is  roofed  with  sheets  of 
(topper,  and  it  is  said  the  fortress  could  accommodate 
25,000  defenders.  Vnnn  the  top  of  it  we  had  a 
magnificent  view  of  the  vast  plain,  using  our  glasses 
to  some  purpose. 

The  angles  of  the  roof  of  the  summit  are  orna- 
nu'uted  by  two  golden  dolphins  gleaming  in  the 
sunlight,  and  catching  the  eye  from  every  part  of  the 
city.  One  of  these  was  sent  to  the  Vienna  Exhibition 
in  IH73,  and  was  wrecked  on  its  way  back,  but  with 
great  ditHculty  recovered  from  the  sea,  and  restored 
to  its  height,  whence  it  is  never  to  descend  again. 
But  there  is  a  tale  of  a  thief  who  took  advantacre  of 


r 


Ill 


70 


RAMBLES   IN   JAPAN 


a  Stormy  niglit  to  fly  a  kite  over  one  of  tliem,  and 
thus  attempted  to  get  the  gohl  plating,  Imt  was 
caught  and  boiled  in  oil  for  liis  pains,  after  wliich  the 
Hying  of  large  kites  was  proliilnted  in  the  ])r..vince. 
The  dolphins  are  eight  feet  and  a  half  in  height,  and 
are  said  to  be  worth  £40,000. 

The  historic  castle  is  not  the  only  attraction  of 
Nagoya,  which   well   deserves  more    time    than    the 
three  days  we  were  able  to  bestow  upon  it.     A  bright 
avenue  of  blossoming  cherry  trees  leads  up  to  the 
F)uddhist  temple  called  liigashi  Ilongwanji,  which  is 
remarkable  not  only  for  its  external  beauty  and  its 
internal  splendour,  but  as  being  one  of  the  very  few 
fine  religious  buildings  erected  in  the  jiresent  century, 
and  which  rivals  if  it  does  not  surpass  the  structures 
of  ancient  art.     It  is  the  cathedral  of  the  Ilongwanji 
sect,  or  reformed  IJuddliists,  a  sect  not  more  than  300 
years  old,  who  desire  to  restore  their  religion  to  what 
they  believe  was  its  primitive  purity.     Their  leading 
tenet,  whicli  distingui.^hes  them  from  the  numerous 
other   subdivisions    of   Buihlhism    in    Japan,    is    'he 
doctrine  of  justification  by  faith,  that  is,  they  i.  =uxi 
that  if  your  good  works  and  penances  are  not  of  them- 
selves suHic-ient  to  insure  your  rapid  attaimnent  of 
Xirvana,  or  absorption  into  the  infinite,  the  desired 
end  may  be  attained  by  faith  in  the  Amida  incarnation 
of  Buddha.    As  this  sect  embraces  the  most  thoughtfid 
and    intellectual    part   of    the   population,    the    pro- 
minence that  it  gives  to  the  doctrine  of  justification 
by  faith  removes  one  great  obstacle  to  the  reception 
nf  Christianity,  if  it  even  does  not  pave  the  way  for  it. 


; 


NAGOYA 


171 


A  careful  survey  of  tliis  temple  affords  sufficient 
evidence  that  neither  art  nor  taste  have  degenerated 
in  the  country;    though  there  are  no  signs  of  any 
development  or  originality.     But  can  we  say  more, 
or  as  much,  of  architectural  art  in  our  own  country  ? 
Wiiere  is  the  trace  of  originality  in  any  one  of  our 
modern    architects?      Have    our   (lilhert    Scotts    or 
Pnitterficlds  done   any  more    than  simply  reproduce 
the  older  designs  ;  or  are  their  most  original  works 
anything  more  than  the  taking  to  pieces,  after  the 
manner  of  a  Chinese  puzzle,  the  masterpieces  of  our 
old  designers,  and  reproducing  them  in  a  somewhat 
varied  arrangement?     This  temple,  which  is  120  feet 
long,  is  divided  into  a  nave 'and  two  aisles,  with  a 
deep  chancel  and  a  central  gilt  shrine,  with  an  image 
of  Buddha  on  a  platform,  eni'iched  with  exciui.sitely 
designed  carvings  and  sculpture  in  wood,  painted  and 
gdded.     The  shrine  at  the  termination  of  one  of  the 
aisles  contains  a  portrait  of  the  founder  of  the  sect. 
On  both  sides  of  the  central  image  are  several  ailt 
screens,  on  which  are  very  cleverly  paint^MJ  landscapes. 
But  what  struck   me   most  in  this  temple  was  the 
number  and  wondei-ful  variety  of  fabulous  and  super- 
natural beings— in  fact,    a  repertory  of  all    that  is 
mythological  and  legendary  in  r,he  fairy  tales  of  old 
.rapan.     TJie  heroes  of  romance  or  of  fairy  tales  are 
represented  riding  on  fish,  tortoises,  cranes,  frogs,  and 
dragons.     All  the  figures  I  believe  can  be  explained 
by  references  to  the  old  Jai)auese  mythology,  of  which 
on  these  points  at  least  1"  must  confess  my  ignorance. 
One    other   small  temple  is    well  worth   a   visit 


hi 


It 


p^l 


i    Si 


^il 


W' 


172 


RAMBLES    IN    JAPAN 


lor  tlie  exti'fiortliiiiir}'  (nllcrtioii  of  imauos  wliicli 
it  i-ontiiins.  On  l)ot]i  sid'/s  ni'  and  hcliind  the  shrine 
are  galleries,  where  are  arranged  on  stages  one  above 
another  small  statues  of  the  five  hiuidred  original 
discijiles  of  lUiddha.  Madi  one  of  the  live  hundred  is 
ditferent,  both  in  fa(;e  and  eostume.  Xf)  two  ean  he 
faind  alike.  The  work  is  said  to  he  about  three 
hundred  }ears  old.  What  strikes  the  visitor  most  is 
that  there  is  nothing  e(m\eutional  about  them,  nothing 
of  the  inanimate  unilbrmitv  of  the  Buddhas,  but  all 
are  full  of  expression.  I'he  artists  must  have  indeed 
iteen  geniuses  to  devise  tlie  different  faees,  all  of 
which  they  could  not  have  had  l)efore  them.  In  fact, 
they  seem  (juite  to  have  understood  the  characteristic 
types  of  the  various  ])eoples  of  the  East.  Some  are 
admirable  Hindu  types,  others  Mongolian,  C'Jiinese, 
and  Malay,  besides  the  ordinary  Japanese.  There  is 
every  \  iriety  too  of  individual  expression.  >S(>nie  are 
grave  and  dignifie<].  others  haughty  and  iin[)erious, 
some  smihng,  others  with  an  amu.sing  JMiarisaie 
expression  of  .self-sat isfacticm.  Their  attitudes  are 
as  various  as  theii-  countenances,  standino-,  kneelin*'-, 
recundM'ut,  [>r;iying,  blessing,  or  riding  on  horses, 
eicjdiants,  etc.  The  verger  a.ssurcd  us  that  everv  one 
who  searehes  can  liiid  his  own  likeness  amono'  these 
Hakan. 

We  had  inti'uded  to  h'aNc  Xagova  » ..rlier  than 
we  did.  bill  \\v,  missed  our  liam  owinu;  t(j  it 
starting  li\'  fiie  station.  (I<yrk,  whicii  was  fast.  On 
our  rein(tii,-.t  rating  wiih  the  ofHcials  they  were  most 
nrotnse    ni    aiiolon'i.'-  '   wijiili]    l.i(«  deli'difcd    to   ]3ut 


lit 


II 


NA(iOYA 


175 


the  clock  to  any  time  wc  wished.     They  at  once  put 
it  i^uck   ten  iiiiimtes  to  oblige  us,  but  this  did  not 
ivcall    our    train.      IIowcvci-,   we   were   able  well    to 
utilise   the  extra  time.      We  CHve  a  day  to  visitin^r 
(ho   porcelain  manufactories   of   Xagoya,   under   the 
LMiidaiKv  of  a  highly  educated,  iiitelligent  Japanese 
<'hi'i.stian   gentleman.       Nagoya  is  a  great  manufac- 
turing centre  for  every  kind  of  j.oi'celain,  not  only  for 
liiat  which   bears  its  name,  bul    also  for  the  modern 
Satsuma  and    cloisonne   wai'es.      AVe  saw   the   whole 
processes,  from  the  mixing  of  the  clay,  the  modelling, 
painting,  and  baking,  to  the  final  glazing.     ]\Iuch  of 
it  was  ^ery  like  the  operations  which  I  have  seen  in 
Worcester,  though  much  less  dcf)cnded  on  machinery, 
;!iid  more  on  the  accuracy  of  the  individual  hand  and 
eye.     This  was  especially  the  case  with  the  painting. 
All  Nagoya  ware  is    hand-painted,  and  we  watched 
I'-r  a  long  time  an  old  man  sitting  on   the  oround. 
with  an  uid)aked  vase  between  his  legs,  which  he  was 
covering  with    artistic  designs  with  givat    ra|)idity, 
.ind    no   co[.y    before   him.      He   rapidly    (inished   his 
work,   and   having  pas.sed   it  on,   t(.ok  another  vase, 
vvhich    he    would    decorate    <piite    in    another    stvle. 
again  without  a  copy.       Having  pas.sed   this    on,   he 
would  take  its  fellow  and   reproduce  exactlv  the  same 
pattern  without  once  referring  to   the  other,  smiolv 
liom   memory.      It   seemed    to    make    no    <lifference 
whether  the  subject  were  lan<lscape,  a  garden  scene, 
birds,    or    human    figures,   all  were    performed   with 
equal  accuracy  and  rapidity.     This  skill   is  acquired 
by  long  training  and  practice.     These  decorators  oi' 


Wl 


ii 

Mi 

T'h 

' 

■(>»"• 

!; 

a^' 

1? 

aS'i 

h 

mm 

rui* 


I'  I 


i 


i||i 


^7e 


GAMBLES   IX   JAI'AN 


the  ceramic;  art,  like  llic  ..tlior  ai-ti.sts  of  their  country, 
never  copy  ^'ature,  but  .study  the  recoguisud  master- 
pieces of  tlie  artists  of  the  ol<lrn  time,  wliose  works 
they  reproduce  over  and  over  again  with  Chinese 
accuracy,  even  to  tlie  miimtest  touches,  never  ventur- 
ing beyond  the  original. 

And    .so    in    landscape    art.      No   Jaj)aneso    will 
attempt,  for  instance,  to    sketch    Fuji  from  Nature, 
stdl  less  to  attempt  a  su!)ject  not  seh^-ted  by  the  old 
masters.     There  are,  perhaps,  about  iilly  such  scenes, 
which  ha^•o  the  same  place  in  art  as  the  .AFadonnas  of 
Raphael  and  AluriJlo  in  Europe,  and  these  are  well 
known  to  every  educated  Japanese,  who  would  think 
it  a  profanation  to  attempt  a  sketch  of  a  scene  not 
included  in  the  classical  .seh-.fion.     AVe  followed  the 
va.ses  from  the  artist  to  the  kiln,  the  delicate  mani- 
pulation of  whi(;li  .showed  how  nm.ji  depends  ujjon  a 
practised  eye  and   touch  ;    and    then    tin;dly  to    the 
glazing  oven.      We   had   th.-  .satisfVictloii  of  iurjuding 
among   our  subse.juent   purchases    a    pair  of   vases 
of  which    we    had    watched    the    whole    process    of 
maiiufaciure. 

Another  deiiartment  of  this  large;  factory  was 
devoted  to  the  manufacture  of  modern  Satsuma 
ware,  the  distinctive  characteristic  of  which  seems 
to  be  a  peculiar  minute  reticidatcd  cracking  boieath 
the  glaze.  The  art  of  this  maimfa.'fure  "has  .mlv 
lately  been  resu.scitate.l,  in  con.se(piencc  of  the 
immen.se  prices  obtained  foi-  the  old  extinct  Satsuma 
ware.  So  far  as  1  could  detect  the  process,  this 
peculiar    .>f}pct   is   produced   in  the   baking,  perhaps 


NAGOYA 


177 


by  its  being  taken  out  and  immersed  in  some  liquid 
or  exposed  to  a  sudden  cliange  of  temperature  before 
the  proc.;ss  is  completed.  Probably  we  were  not 
shown  everything,  as  it  is  not  likely  that  what  must 
be  almost  if  not  altogether  a  secret  should  be 
reve  ded  to  sti'angers. 

J  ut  w(;  did  watch  witli  much  interest  the  cloisonne 
manufacture,    which    is    again    an    example    of    the 
marvellous  memory  and  imitative  power  of  Japanese 
artistic    workmen.     The  vase  to  be    operated    up.^n 
was  slightly  dried  rather  than  l)aked  before  it  came 
into  the  artist's  hands.     He  was  supplied  with  long 
rolls  of  metal  slips  or  Hattened  wire  about  the  width 
of  a  watch-spring,  say  the  eighth  of  an  inch,  which 
looked  like  nickel,  but  which  wove,  I  believe,  copper. 
In  fac^t,  had  it  not  been  for   tlieir  colour,  I  should 
have    taken    them    for  watch   springs.      These,  with 
niarvellcjus  delicac}-,  the  workman  twisted    into   the 
desired  shape,  and  pressed  lightly  into  the  soft  clay, 
snipping  them  when  re.juired  with  a  pair  of  pliers' 
and  forming  tlie.  outline  of  leaves  or  birds,  or  what- 
ever else  he  desired  to  represent. 

When  his  pattern  was  thus  completed,  he  tilled 
the  various  interstices  of  this  netw(jrk  from  a  palette 
by  his  side,  on  m  hicji  were  arranged  little  piles  of 
})aste  of  v;»-'i,  ub  colours.  There  might  be  from  a 
<lozen  to  twcny  |>astes  of  different  shades  employed 
for  a  sinole  vasu. 

The  patterns  of  some  of  the  i)ordcrs  were  ex- 
tremely small,  some  of  the  loops  hcing  but  the 
fortietli  part  of  an  inch  across.     For  these  he  twisted 

N 


f^ 


178 


RAMRLKS    rx    JAPAX 


his  wiiv  with  iiiiimtr  ])li('i's.  This  }.art  of  lh(>  work- 
was  rcall}-  ahudst  iiiii  roscnpic,  and  yet  done  with 
llic  accuracy  of  u  machine.  When  tliese  tiny  par- 
lilions  had  I'eceived  a  jiortidii  of  tlie  in<'tallie  paste, 
tlie  ware  was  taken  to  the  kihi,  sliohtly  Itaked  and 
thou  rolillcck  This  proces,-.  Is  repeated  several  times, 
wlieii  the  artick'  is  snioothcMJ  (hiwn  and  ixdished  ])v 
another  ai'tist.  A  most  costly  kind  of  cloisomK' 
ware  is  funned  on  eopju'r  instead  of  poivelain.  This 
inainifacture,  however,  did  not  come  under  oui' 
notice. 

Iluvino'   couipleteil    the  pattern   accordin,";'   to  his 
taste,  lie  then  rouuhed  tlie  tieM  not  occupied  by  his 
design   with   a    wodden    instrument,   wlien    the    vase- 
was  ready  for  the  first  kiln  and  then  for  the  i)olisher. 
After  spending  half  a  day  in  insjiecting  the  manu- 
facture, we  visited  the  show-room,  which  would  have 
done   credit   to    IJegent    Street,  and   live    boxes  told 
the    talc    (»f    the  spoil    ijiat    had    become   ours.      A\'e 
had   no   further    ti'ouMo   with   our    purchases,   which 
were   sent   on  by   the   v<'n(h'r  to   Osaka,   and  then.'c 
to    England,    wliere    they    ai-rived    without    a  smgle 
fracture.      The  packing  of  <'hina  is  an  art  in  Japan. 
Every    article    is    ])acked    scj)arately    in    rice    straw 
twisted    tiglitly    round    the    articl(\    and     th(>    ends 
ingeniously  tucked  in.  so  that  eai'h  piece  of  porcelain 
looks    like    a    hard    stiaw    hall,   and   can    bo   let   i'all 
without  fract  ure. 

A\  c  afterwards  visited  in  the  coinpanv  of  our 
Japanese  friend,  who  was  a  welbknown  connoissoui- 
in  art,  a  great  sale  of  furniture.  !ac(juer  .'ind  brnnj^e, 


NACJOYA 


170 


! 


the  })r()[)('rty  of  the  son  of  a  cclolirated  Dainiio,  who 
had  lii't'ii  niiiiiiii;'  himself  on  the  turf  at  l*aris,  and 
was  eoin|)clh'(l  to  raise  money  by  tlie  sale  of  the 
fiimily  luMi'looms.  These*  were  displayi'd  in  the 
upper  storey  of  the  principal  liotel  in  the  place. 
All  the  i)artilions  jiaving  been  rcinovcil.  tlic  whole 
forrr-'d  one  spacious  gallery,  alon-  the  sides  and 
down  the  centre  of  which  the  various  articles  were 
arranged,  each  having  a  stiip  of  tissue  paper  attached 
to  it  with  the  pri«e  distinctly  marked  in  Japanese 
characters.  Thus  there  was  no  bargaining,  no  al)ate- 
ment,  no  competition.  The  visitor  simi)lv  told  the 
salesman  tin;  mnnber  of  tlie  ai'ticle  he  wished  for, 
and  it  was  handtM]  to  liini.  Tliere  were  man\' 
ancestral  relics  of  great  intrinsic;  value,  very  fine 
bronzes  at  a  figui-e  (jnitc  beyond  my  limits;  but 
guided  by  our  -Japanese  friend  we  spent  a  few  pounds 
in  antique  lac(|uer  ware  inlaid  with  mother  of  pearl, 
which  we  found  aftei'wards  was  considered  a  great 
bargain.  .Amongst  others  a  tray  of  ancient  Coreaii 
lacquer,  the  manufacture  of  which  is  (juite  ditlerent 
from  the  -Japanese,  and  is  now  a  lost  art. 

(  hi  Sunday  morning  we  had  a  walk  of  two  miles  to 
the  lionseusedas  a  elinich.  wliich  is  simply  anordinarv 
house  in  a  busy  street.  Passing  tlirough  the  outer 
apartment,  all  took  otf  their  shoes.  The  next  room 
was  the  vestry,  and  beyond  it  the  cluireh,  consisting 
of  three  looms  thrown  into  one,  with  the  communion 
table  at  the  further  end,  where  the  paper  walls  had 
been  removeil,  so  that  the  church  opened  on  the 
pretty  Utile  garden  behind.     The  congregation  con- 

X  2 


,  H 


180 


RAMHLK.S    L\    JAIA^ 


sisf.Ml  of  mtlior  l.vs.s  thnn  thirty  ftdiiUs,  nnd  n       n.lav- 
Hcliool  of  al...ut  a  .lozci.  cliil.lrcn.     Chairs  Acre  fouii.l 
for  Mrs.  iJuhiiisoii  iuid  niysolf,  l)ui  cveryciic  else  sat 
"li  the  fhw,  wh/h'  (he  I.ishop  in   full  robes  otHciated 
in  stockin<.^  f(vi.      \\v  ho^i^ran  with   (lie  Contlrmation 
Bemco.     Six  eonvens  were  eontiinKMl,  one  of  thoin  a 
Imdiii:,^  lawyer,  another  ,'i  man    f  (     u  .,tio,i,  who  was 
to    Ih!    a   citr.-hist.     The    I.ishop    -,,   ,;    11,.   address 
hcfore  the  seivicc,  and  JI(.ly  ComniMii'on  foHowed,  of 
course  all   in  .lapanese,    whi.-h,    ij,niitrh   I   eould  not 
undrrstan.i.  yet  u;is  al.le  to  folh.w,  an    tdvantage  of 
a    liturny   that    1    have    ol'ten    ielt  in    iorci;jri    lands. 
It  was  an  intensely  interest int--  spc       1,.,  ami  recalled 
in  ima.uinaiion  the  infant  cjiuivjies  in  ih..  Aets  of  the 
Apostles.     The  occasion  when  St.  Paul  received  into 
the  church   Oionysius   the   Are(.pa-ite  ,i   d   t])e  ].,dv 
Damaris  could    not  liuve   l)een  verv  dill.,      i 
surroundin,ys.     There  were  various  other  servic<  .  and 
scliools  in  the  afternoon  and  eveninrr,  for  neither  the 
bishop  nor  ;-n\  other  of  tlie  missionaries  spare    hem- 
selves,  but  1  remained  at  home. 

We    left   Nagoya    and    its    1l'5,000    inhabitants 
■eluctantly.     We  e..u]d   well  have  spent  more  time" 
there  with  .mr  charming  hosts,  who  are  specimens  of 
earnest  missionaries,  and  an  honour  to  tlie  Canadian 
Church. 

Our  next  stage  was  Gifu,  a  town  of  40,000  in- 
habitants, the  (capital  of  tlu-  province  of  Mino,  and 
the  emploN-nn'iit  of  whose  2)eoph3  is  the  manufacture 
cf  paper  lanterns  ;  the  rearing  of  silkworms  ;  and  in 
summer  th<>  iishing  with  cormorants,  which  is  really 


NAGOYA 


181 


ll       i     portftnt   ind.istry    of    tlu>   place,    aii.l    which 
uttruets  many  apoctators. 

This  art,  lik(!  fjilcom      i.s  of  rrreut  nTiti(|iiity,  and 
liloiit,  has  been  d(3riv(".i  m,i.    OhlWilhaiirhl.y, 

mof  than  two  hundred  }  ago,  de8<'ril)ed  this  mo<h' 
(»f  iisliing  vith  cormorants  il  had  heen  carried  on  m 
()1<1  ICngiand  lung  }»efore  his  time,  and  refers  to  8(  cral 
nnthoritics,  as  J.  Faher  and  .Menih^ija.  In  England, 
however,  it  Iiad  become  extinct,  until  recently  it 
was  resuseitntnd  '  that  well-known  fali'oner 
Captain  R  Salvin.  li  would  seem  that  the  .sport 
was  introduced  int.   ^'  in  the  beginning  of  the 

17th  century  by  t  di,  from  whose  country  it 

spread  to  France  ai  ,  Jand,  and  was  a  favourite 

amusement  of  both  .'     ars  I.  and  Charles  I.    Probably 
it    was    from    Japan     rather    than    China    that    the 
earlier  voyagers  derived  their  knowledge  of  this  mode 
of  fishing.     Cormorant   fishing,    as   I   have   seen    it 
carried  on  on  a  large  .scale  in  the  Chinese  pinsince  of 
Che-Kiang    in    no   way   diifers    from    tiie    Japanese 
method.     The    cormorants,    which    are     taken    very 
young,  are  taught  to  feed  fi  -ni  the  hand,  and  then 
allowed   to  lish    for   themselves   with  a  long   strino- 
attached  to  their  foot.      I'.ut  being   very  .hicile  and 
tame,  they  .soon  learn  to  return  to  call.     When  they 
have  proved  themselves  sufliciently  trustworthy,  they 
arc  allowed  to  fish  loose,  with  a  leather  sti^ip  round 
the  neck.  .,,  that  they  caimot  swallow  the  prey  they 
have  captured     When  called,  they  return  and  disgorge 
it,  and  whei.  Jiey  have  thus  secured  as  large  a  ^umAy 
as  their  master  wants,  the  strap  is  removed,  and  they 


i 


I 

n 


MICROCOPY    RESOLUTION    TEST    CHART 

I  ANSI  and  ISO  TEST  CHART  No.  2l 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


12.8 


III  3.2 


13,6 


m 


1.4 


I  2.5 

112.2 

2.0 
1.8 


1.6 


A     /APPLIED  IM/IGE 


1653  East  Main  Slteel 
'•'f:hpster.   New   York         U609       USA 
■       -81  -  0300  -  Phone 
288  -  5989  -  Fax 


182 


KAMIJLKS    IN    JAl'AN 


;irc  allowed  to  fish  for  themselves.  The  ])ii'(l-,  when 
allowed  a  short  rest  at  intervals,  will  continue  tlieir 
labours  tlir(.u^li  the  whole  iiiuht,  th-  fish  bein-' 
attracted  to  thv  boat,  I'aft,  or  it  may  be  plank  fixed 
to  the  slioi(\  by  a  torch  kept  bui'iiin^o;. 

Our  liosts  at  Oifu  were  .Mr.  and  ]\Irs.   ('hai)pell, 
of    the     Church     .Missionary     Society,     the     station 
havino'  l)een  only  taken   up  by  the  society  about  a 
year    j)reviously.       Its    origin    is     iutcrestinu*.       ]\lr. 
riiappell's    brother    was     l-vUglisJi      teacher    in     the 
Government  High  School  here,  aud  ])eing  an  earnest 
Christian    man,    devoted    what    time    he    could    to 
drawing  t(Avards    the  Oospel    those  wh()]n  he  could 
reach.     'Jlie  governor  refused  to  allow  him  to  hold 
services  or  to  preach,  })ut   at   length   gave  him  per- 
mission, on  condition  of  his  [)ro]uising  not  to  speak 
against    Biuhlha.      This   was   a    great    step    forward, 
considering  that  Mr.  Cliappell  was  a  servant  of  the 
government.      Ife  then  persuaded  his  brother,  who 
was  a  curate  in   England,  to  come  out  and  take  his 
place,  and  lu-  ibr  some  time    supported    the    infont 
mission,  and  after  an  inteival  the  Church  ^Missionarv 
Society  adopted  it.    The  result  of  two  and  a  half  years' 
work  in  a  city  where  there  was  not  a  single  baptized 
Christian  to  begin  with,  is  that  now  there  are  seven 
out-statif)ns,   at  three   of   which    there    are   mission- 
rooms,  in  the  others  meetings  in  houses.     There  are 
two  catechists  continually  at  work,  one  at  Oifu,  the 
other  in  the  villages.     We  m(>t  them  both,  and  verA- 
earnest,  cajDable  men   tlie\-  aj)[)eared  to  be.      In  Gifu 
there  were  sixty-five  Church  mend)ers,  lu-sides  eiiiht 


NAGOYA 


183 


baptized  converts  scattered  in  the  out-stations.     A 
,Uood-sized  liired  house  in  a  lovely  garden  served  for 
a  church,  and  as  the  garden  gates  stand    open  and 
the  whole  front  of  the  church  is  also  open,  the  people 
<'an    stroll    iu    here,   and    see    as   they  like,  without 
disturbing    the    services  or   committing    themselves. 
The  chuich  was  all   matted,  and  much   larger  than 
that  at  Nagoya,  but— wliidi  is  (|uitc  an  innovation 
for  a  strictly  native  community—  lia<l  benches.     There 
was  a  neat  communion  tal)le,  desks,  and  font.     I  had 
not   yet  met  with    a    more  promising  infant  chureh 
than  this,  but  the  people  are  characteristically  inde- 
pendent, and  .Mr.  Chappell  knows  what  a  parochial 
council    means.     A  notice  tablet  by  the  gate  gave 
a  goodly  list  of  the  services  and  meetings  throughout 
the  wei  k. 

Gifu  is  dominated  by  a  fine  bold  ridge  of 
thickly- wooded  hills,  wliich  we  attempted  to  climl), 
but  after  a  long  scrand)le  in  the  woods  had  * 
abandon  the  attempt,  though  we  were  rewarded  b)  .i 
grand  view  over  the  wide  (.)hari  plain.  We  returned 
through  a  pretty  public  park,  with  band-stand  and 
all  the  most  modern  ap2)liances.  After  purchasinu', 
as  in  duty  bound,  a  due  supply  of  paper  and  bamboo 
lanterns  and  fans,  in  most  of  which  the  cormorant 
fishing  figures,  we  found  a  number  of  the  Christians 
had  assembled  to  meet  us.  I  gave  them  an  address, 
which  was  interpreted  by  one  of  the  catechists,  who 
understood  English  very  fiiirly. 

At  Gifu  we  found  ourselves  off  the  Tokaido  and  on 
the  Nakasendo,  the  other  great  road  between  Toki(j 


ifli' 


fa 


mi 


M" 


184 


RAMBLES   IN   JAPAN 


and  Kioto,  leadiuo-  mainly  tLrougli  the  mountains,  as 
its  name  implies,  the  Tokaidd  f(^llowing  the  plain  as 
far  as  possible.     The  road  was  constructed  more  than 
a  thousand  years    ago.     Tradition  carries  its  origin 
much  further  l)ack,  and  says  that  in  the  reign  of  the 
Emperor   Kaiko,   a.d.  71,  his  son  made  u,se  of  this 
road  for  the  con<]uest  of  the  eastern  parts  of  Japan 
[  can  hardly  leave  Gifu  without  mentioning  that  a 
very  few  months  after  our  visit  this  fair  ajuntry, 
with  the  lovely  i)lain  on  which  we  had  been  gazing^ 
and   the  vast  city  of  Nagoya,  were  desolated,  and 
Gifu  itself  destroyed  by  the  earthquake,  one  of  the 
most  disastrous  on  record,  and  of  the  effects  of  which 
the  i]lustrati<ms  may  give  some  idea. 

A  long  railway  journey  took    us   from    Gifu  to 
riikone  Station  ,  but  let  not  the  weary  traveller  who 
is   set   down   at   the   station   imagine    that    he    has 
arrived   at   the   place,    for   in   Japan,  as   elsewhere, 
stations  are  sometimes  far  from  the  spot  whose  name 
they   bear.       ^Ye    found    ourselves    deposited   at   a 
loadside   station   late   at  night,   with   no   means   of 
conveyance  fo]-  ourselves  or  our  baggage  to  the  town, 
until  through  the  good  offices  of  the  kindly  folk  at 
the  station  kurumas  were  sent  for,  ^vhieh  landed  us 
towards  midnight  at  a  little  inn         the   shores  of 
Lake  Biwa,  where,  having  knocked  up  the  people,  we 
had    tea,    and   slept   soundly   on    the    matted  floor. 
Notwithstanding    the   shortness   of    our    night,   we 
puched  aside  our  paper  screens   soon    after   sunrise, 
and  looked  out  on  the  fairy-like  scene  over  the  water. 
The  house  reminded  us  of  the  one  at  Hakone,  pro- 


t 


■■'i 


iii'i 
"hi' 


nr 


f'i  . 

■fj '  ;  , 


NAGOYA 


187 


jc(;tin-  ovor  tlio  lake,  dose  t.,  the  little  wooden  pier, 
wliK'li  already  presented    a    l.iisy   s<H'iie,  as   bales  of 
riee  and  fish  were  carried  down  ready  lor  the  steamer 
which  runs  the  len.oth  of  the  lake  tui.-e  a  day,  Ifikono 
))oin,ira  thir.l  of  the  way  down  on  the  western  side. 
P.iwa  is  lar-er  than  the  Lake  of  Geneva,  over  tliirty- 
six   miles  long,  and  sun-oiinded  by  mountains  on  all 
siih's,  on  one  only  of  wliidi  did  we  iiotice  the  patches 
of  snow  remaining.     There  arc  seve-      wooded  islets 
scattered    over   it.       The    name    is   derived    from   a 
fancied  resemblance  to  the  shape  of  the  guitar.     The 
natives  are  very  prou<l  of  this  lake,  which  in  their 
estimation  ranks  only  second  to  Mount  Fuji  as  one  of 
the  glories  of  Japan,  and  they  are  fond  of  boasting 
that   it   is    larger    than    any    lake  in    Europe.     The 
tradition  is  that  the  lake  was  created  by  an  earth- 
•luake  in  the  year  B.C.  286,  at  the  same   time  that 
Fuji  rose   from  the  plains  of  Suruga.     In  Japanese 
poetry  this  lake  is  a  favourite  theme,  and  the  '  eight 
l)eauties  of   Onii '  (i.e.  Biwa)  are  frequently  alluded 
to,  these  beauties  being  the  autumn   moon  as  seen 
from  one  place,  the  evening  sun  from  another,  and 
so  on.     However  fanciful  these  may  be,  no  one' who 
has  seen  it  will  deny  that  the  lake  presents  many 
lovely  landscapes,  though  none  possess  the  grand  or 
the  sublime. 

Hikone  possesses  a  half-destroyed  feudal  castle, 
the  seat  of  one  of  the  Daimios,  whi.di  would  have 
been  entirely  demolished  had  not  the  Mikado, 
liappening  to  pass  through  Hikone,  and  finding  the 
inhabitants  exhibiting,  as  they  thought,  their  loyalty, 


ii 

ft'' 


188 


RAMIU^ES    IN   JAPAN 


III 


I 


I  ■(' 


hy  pulling  down  the  noble  old  buikling,  pi(»inptly 
stopped  this  act  of  xundalism.  Unfortiniatoly,  at 
the  time  of  the  inauguration  of  the  new  cia  and  the 
al)olition  of  feudalism,  loyalty  was  exhibited  hy  the 
destruction  of  the  old  castles  throughout  the  country, 
much  as  zeal  for  the  Keformation  was  demonstrated 
by  the  destruction  of  abbeys. 

As  the  steamer  started  from  the  north  end  of 
the  lake,  two  or  tlirce  hours  lu'fore  it  reached  Ilikone, 
we  had  an  opjwrtunity  for  a  stroll  on  the  bea,'h  ;  and 
amongst  the  reeds  and  rushes  I  collected  many 
splendid  specimens  of  J'resh-water  shells,  of  species 
peculiar,  I  believe,  to  this  district.  Though  wncrallv 
the  Japanese  thoroughly  appreciate  a  collector's  taste, 
especially  in  botany,  the  villagers  w(>re  exceedingly 
amused  and  perplexed  by  the  interest  we  took  in 
shells,  and  especially  in  those  whose  inmates  were  too 
small  to  eat,  and  which  involved  wading  in  the  mud 
to  find  them. 

At  length  the  steamer  arri\ed,  more  like  a  small 
steam  launch  than  a  passenger  boat.  All  on  board  were 
Japanese,  and  there  were  u  great  many  passengers. 
We  luid  no  idea  of  investigating  the  cabins,  in  which 
no  person  over  fi\e  foot  could  enjoy  locomotion 
excepting  on  all  fours.  l')ut  the  captain,  who  at 
once  made  our  ac(]uaintaiice,  could  talk  a  little 
Engli.sli,  of  which  he  was  very  proud,  and  was 
delighteil  to  point  out  objects  of  interest  durino' 
the  few  hours  we  were  on  l)oard.  He  startled  us 
by  telling  us  that  the  Czarevitch  had  been  nearlv 
murdered  by  a  policeman  the  day  before  at  Otsu, 


NAOOYA 


189 


at  the  south  end  of  tlio  lake,  whither  we  were  theu 
on  our  way,  and  that  hi  had  hccn  carried  to  Kioto. 
The  man  had  struciv  hitn  over  the  head  and  neck, 
and  w..uld    certainly  have   killed    him    had   not   two 
kiiruma   men   hg'v/M    him.       The  consternation  and 
excitement    of    the    passenners    may    he    imagined. 
The  prominent  feeling  seemed  to  be  distress  at  the 
disgrace  that  had  thus  l.eeu  brought  on  their  country, 
and  that  they  would  be  looked  upon  as  savages  by 
other  nations.     To  nothing  is  a  Ja[)anese  so  sensitive 
as  to  the  suspicion  that  his  nation  is  not  looked  upon 
as   civilised,    and    therefore    they   felt   keenly   as   a 
national  slur  the  appearance  of  treachery  to  a  guest. 

Nearing    ()tsu,    we     passed    close    in    shore    by 
Ka)asaki,    and    could    examine    at    our  leisure    the 
celebrated  pine-tree,  said   to  be  tlie  hirgest,  not  the 
tallest,  of  its  kind  in  the  world.     Its  branches  spread 
downwards  and  outwards  on  all  sides,  many  of  them 
being  close  to  the  ground.     The  height  of  the  tree 
is  said  to  be  90  feet,  the  circumference  of  the  trunk 
37  feet,   and   the  diameter  covered  by  its  branches 
from  north  to  south  290,  and  from  east  to  west  240 
feet.     The  branches,  of  course,  are  all  propped  and 
supported,   so  that  the  tree  has  the  appearance  of 
a  very  flattened  banyan.      It  is  evidently  carefully 
tended,  and  any  signs  of  decay  are  proi    .-ly  treated. 
Arrived  at  the  extremity  of  the  lake,  we  found 
the  town  of  Otsu  in  a  ferment  of  excitement.     It 
is  ,".  bustling,  thriving  little  place,  with  wide  streets, 
and  a  fine  aqueduct,  which  has  just  been  completed 
to  convey  the  water  thence  to  Kioto.      It  was  fo 


^  I  111 


i  I 


%i 


lil; 


p 


!)0 


HAMBLKS    IN    .lAI'AN 


iHUi 


■ 


visit    tliLvsc    works    ili.ii    the    (.'/uiovitch    liud    come, 
when  ho  W!is  stnirk   jit   l.y  tlio  policfinaii  as  ho  was 
rrliiriiing    I'luin    the   fnnii;il    opcniiiir  ,,f   il,,.   tuinicl. 
This  tinmcl.  ;iii  cx.iinplc  i,(  hold  ciiLiiiU'i'iiiiii',  [lioivcs 
the  iiKiiiiitaiii  which  liars  I  Ik;  soiilli  cikI  of  Piiwa.     The 
Irauic  event    took  place  exactly  in  front  of  the  hotel 
wheiv  we  rested,  and   the  spot  was  l.ciiiu'  nunrded  l»y 
l>olicc.      The  wonJddie  assassin  was  hiuli  in  the  force 
(jver  forty  years  of  aj^a-,  and    had   won  distinction  in 
the  snp|>ression  of   the  Satsnnia   rei.ellion.      He  had 
I'ccn  specially   trusted    with   the  care  of  the  road   for 
the  passano  of  the  C/carevitdi,      It  is  helievcd  that  he 
did  the  deed  as  a  protest  in  revenue  for  the  fili-hino' of 
Sai^halien  l)y  Kussia.  a  piece  of  ^Muscovite  (h'ploinacv 
which     .lajian     has    never    foreivcii.        He     piohahlv 
l»elon,i:e(l    to   a  secret  society,  and  was  appointed  hv 
lot  to  conmiit  the  crime.     He  liad  on   jiim  a  stiletto 
to  kill  himself,  hut  was  prevented  h)-  heiiio-  instantly 
sei^ied  by  two  kuriima   men.      jhit  the  secret  history 
of  the  affair  will   ne\ei'   he   known,  as  no  .lai)anese 
<-onspirator    will    ever,    under    any    torture,    betray 
another.     The  Czarevitch  was  at  once  taken  to  Kioto, 
and  on  learning  the  news  by  telegTaph,  the  Mikado 
at  once  started  from  Tokio  to  visit  him.     The  people 
of  all  ranks  were  horror-struck,  and  one  old  ladv  in 
Otsu    on    lu'uring   it   at  once   connnitt(>d    suicide  bv 
hai'akiri,  to  show  her  indiu'iiation. 

As  we  dined  sitting  on  the  floor,  while  our  laixl- 
lord  chatted  very  freel\-  and  retaile(|  all  the  gossip  on 
the  event  of  the  day,  we  couhl  not  liel[)  feelino-  how 
strange   it  was   that  here  we  were,   the   two  solitarv 


NA(i()YA 


:h 


Kiiropoans  in  a  wMintry  town  in  (he  intnic.r  of  Japan, 
the  name  of  wliicli  had  scaivdv  ever  hccn  heard 
l>efore  out  of  the  conntry,  and  yet  that  on  this 
inorninn;  tlio  name  of  ( )tsu  wonid  he  in  (sveiy  nows- 

|»aper  and  every  iiKuith  tliron^hout  tlie  \v]]ole  civilised 

world. 

The  nidy  lion  of  Olsu  hesidos  the  new  aqueduct  is 
a  famous  Ihiddhist  teni{)le  sacred  to  Kwannon,  the 
.t-oddosH  of  morcy,  from  which  theiv  is  a  hjvoly  view 
of  the  lake,  with  the  town  in  the  Ibreo-roun.l  It  is 
not  a  very  fatiguin,<r  walk  to  Kioto,  and  certainlv  no 
one  who  can  walk  should  indulge  in  the  questi(.naMe 
luxury  of  a  kuruma  for  this  expedition.  Taking  a 
<o<.]ic  with  us,  we  first  examined  the  entrance  of  the 
aqueduct  into  the  tunnel,  two  miles  long,  and  then, 
passing  by  the  temi.le,  we  had  a  charn)ing  walk  over 
an  easy  pass.  On  our  way  were  several  air-shafts 
piercing  the  hill  for  the  ventilation  of  the  tunnel. 

When,  having  descended  the  hill,  we  emerged  on 

the  high  road,  we  could  well  imagine  the  scene  on 

the   Tokai(h-)    before    the    introduction    of    railways. 

Dusty  indeed  and  crowded  it   was,    but  it  gave    us 

an  (opportunity  of  noticing  the  great  variety  of  type 

amongst  the  country  people  ;  not  less  was  the  variety 

of  the   ingenious  modes  of   carrying   every  kind  of 

market  and  garden  produce  into  this  vast  city.     The 

pefisantry  do  not  show  their  gallantry  in  the  matter 

of  female  I  ;  jur,  for  a  great  part  of  the  firewood  was 

being  brought  into  the  town  in  huge  bundles  on  the 

heads  of  the  women,  and  women  were  tugiring  at  the 

carts  alongside  of  oxen. 


r 

i! 
I  i 


[    ;  n 


m 


li:;.i 


rt'l 


192 


ItAMJJLKS    IN    JAI'AN 


Wo  lost  tho  first  impression  of  Kioto,  us  the  sum 
luul  set,  and  Imd  h  weary  truinj)  of  two  miles  tlirou^d. 
the   stn-ets   before    we   reached    our    int(>Tided  hotel, 
reputed  to  l.e  one  of  the  best  native  hotels  in  Japan.' 
To  our  dismay,  we  found  that  it  was  impossible  to 
secure  the  hund.lest  shelter  here,  for,  as  the  landlord 
assured    us,    the   crowd  of  the   Mikado's   suite   had 
covered    every    mat.      The    lan.Jlord    was    an    old 
acqui.intance  of  my  da.iohtor,  and,  most  arxious  to 
serve  us,  reeommen<lcd  us  to  another  hotel—alike  in 
vain.     We    trud-ed    on,    to   be  shut   out,    homeless 
wanderers,  everywhere.    Dead  tired,  we  at  last  betook 
.nirselves  to  kurumas,  and  linally,  at  ten  o'clock,  in 
a  remote  part  of  the  city  found  an  inn,  where  they 
said  they  (-ould  give  us  one  small  room  between  us, 
and  promised  a  i)aper  screen  to  divide  it,  for  they  too 
were  crammed  with  visitors.     There  was  no  help  for 
it,    unless  we   were  prepared  to  spend  the  night  in 
the  streets. 


I 


,  ! 


I 
J, 


It 


COLOSSAL   UlAGK   OF   UIUDU.A 


^■^^ 


105 


i^ 


CHAPTER    VI 

A  SECO.VD   VISIT   TO   KIOTO 

to  luoto  wore  so  utteriv  in,,  ffi  ''™'°  ^  g^ve 

'"l"-*!.  oppon„:t'  *r'f^'  '^"^  »'»" 

on  the  eve  of  my  cIoinrL „  T^    °  "  ■"'  '""""'^  vi.,it 
"any  omi.,.,io„/       "  "  '   °  ^^'^  -"e  fe,v  of  „, 

-t-  of  the  ,..t  J„:: '°  f  ^\,?P- -  ^an  .a  the 
«-as  the  gilded  pris,      of  the  M,    /"""^  ™"'"™"'  't 

'•"">'  »  city  o:  to,„p, :,  '  '  f  t,   ''  '^  ""f'"^"- 

■■oligiou,,  metropoJis  Tf    'l,     '  r  '""''"■«'"3'  tiie 

«-eve..e„eeaLadIii:;::J:;"' 

'^7  the  people.  ^  '"^^^''^  ^^  ^«  regarded 

Jt  iies  in  a  pJain  at  the  foot  of  i-h 
-.-   of  .mountains,    .,i.h    1;  t  '"'^'  ""^^'"^^ 
""^'  own    Pennine   ran-.e    in     I  ''^^'^'Pared    to 

^^'7^0,  the  .nan.  island  ;X:n  "7"^^  '''''  '' 
'•^''^'^«  converge  to  it  f,oni  .11  ''^  ^ounUun 

^%  n^iies  f^on.  Osal^^.    i^ 7"     '^  ''  ^^^^ 
^'f  *^-  eastern   eoas,  with  X     ith  "'"'  '"'^^""' 
munication.     The  nl.„-n  ,-.  "'  '"^'^^er  com- 

^;y  mountains  eit;;:::r"^^^^^"-^-- 

^h«  nver  Yodogawa  m 'X  ^  f"";     """"^^^^^  ^^ 

-Hue.  thiuugn  the  city,  shaded 

0  2 


;a 


IL 

III 


Ilpi 

1 

■^11 


I    I 


I  '. 


lOG 


RAMBLES    IN   JAPAN 


with  ancient  trees ;  and  thonoh  the  streets  arc  formal 
in  their  arranoeiu.'iit,  running  parallel  and  at  rioht 
angles,  yet  the  monotony  is  broken  ]>v  thecontinudly 
recurring  gardens,  groves  an.l  temples.     Pago.las  and 
Hhrines  dot  the  mountain  side,  and  the  lower  slopes 
are  brightened  by  the  variegated  hues  of  innumerable 
gardens.     But  withal    Kioto   seems  to   tell  one  that 
its  glories  are  of  the  past.     It  is  the  one  citv  of  Japan 
which  shows  at  once  that  it  has  shrunken  within  its 
ancient  limits,  and  ancient  streets   and  s.piares   aiv 
now  transformed  into  suburban  parks  and  fields.    This 
lias  been    the    natural    and    necessary  result  of   the 
transference  of  power  from  theShogun  to  the  .Mikado. 
and  the  change  of  residence  of  the  latter  to  Tokio, 
which  is  nioi'e  and  more  the  centre  of  national  life. 

Kioto    is,    however,    so    continually    visited     by 
travellers  and  described  by  writers  that  my  impres- 
sions are  not  likely  to  convey  anything  novel.     We 
had  the  good  fortune  to  see  it  en  fete,  imismueh  as  the 
emperor  with   liis  whole   court  arrived  a  few  hours 
after    ourselves    to    show    his    sympathy    with    the 
Czarevitch,  and  although  we  had  secured  our  quarter.s, 
there  was  no  sleep  in  Kioto  that  night.     The  emjx'ror 
was    expected  abr,ut    midnight,   the   wlu.e  city  was 
illuminated,  the  national  flag,  white  M-ith  the  red  risino- 
•sun  in  the  centre,  hung  over  every  door,  and  a  lame 
paper  lantern  bearing  the  same  colours  was  suspended 
beneath  it.     All  the  public  buildings  were  liohted  up 
with  the  electric  light,  and  the  result  of  the'red  and 
white    winkling  stars  beneath  the  electric  blaze  was 
very  elfective.     The  perpetual  din,  coming  and  crowc^ 


A   SECOND    VISIT   TO    KIOTO 


197 


ce 


ceaseless  talking  all  night,  hani.slied  sleep,  and  one 
was  roused  by  a  visit  from  a  polieeman  in  search  of  a 
culprit. 

\V'    n  we  rose  in  the  morning,  our  first  question 
was  I  ijirally  for  the  bath-room,  inasmuch  as  there 
is  no  basin  or  convenience  for  washing  in  a  Japanese 
room.     All  ablutions  and  toilet  are  performed  out- 
side.     The    re[)ly    was,    'No    bath    here,    for    the 
bath-room  is  filled  with  boxes,  but  there  is  a  very 
good  bath  opposite.'     But  '  opposite  '  we  soon  found 
meant  half-way  down  the  street  on   tlie  other  side. 
There  was  nothing  for  it  but  to  set  ofi'  in  slippers 
and  dressing  gown,   towel  and  sponge  in   hand,   to 
find  it.     Arrived,   we  found   three  or  four  baths  in 
fnmt  of  a  kitchen,  all  open  to  the  public,  and  each 
already    occupied    by    at    least    one    l)ather.      The 
attendants  offered,  however,  to  run  a  slide  to  screen 
them  from   the  street,  but  they  could  not   provide 
a  separate  bath  for  each.     iJaulked  and  unwashed, 
we  returned,  and  after  some    negotiation    got   tubs 
placed  in  a  back  garden.     Having  now  returned  to 
the  abode  of  rank  and  fashion,  we  were  obliged  to 
look  after  the  afiairs  of  our  wardrobe.     A  Chinamjin 
who  had  a  board  opposite  the  hotel,  announcin<i-  in 
pidgin  l':nglish,   '  AA^ashman    from   Kol)e,'   introduced 
himself,  followed  by  his  rival,  who  asserted  that  he 
was    'wasc    man.'      At  length,  attired  in  travelling 
best,  we   went    to   deliver   introductions  and  cards, 
and   to   inquire  at  the   hotel  where    the    Czarevitch 
was  staying.     We  found  that  his  imperial  highness 
had  already  gone  down    to  Kobe,   accompanied  by 


ili: 


w 


198 


RAMBLES   IN   JAPAN 


tlie  emperor,  who  escorted  Lin,  <m  board  a  Russian 
man-of-war.  Tims  prematurely  was  tlie  imperial 
visit  cut  short. 

Distances  are  so  great  in    Kioto  that   we   were 
glad  to  engage  kurumas  by  tlie  day.     Our  first  visit 
was  to  the  Buddhist  templos  of  ILmgwanji,  belonging 
to  tlie  purest  sect,  for  we  must  remember  that  there 
are  as  many  sects  among  them  as  in  Christendom 
This  sect  of  the  Shinshu  has  been  already  mentioned 
as  being  characterised  by  teaching  the  doctrine  of 
justification  by  faith,  not  works.     One  of  tI.o  leadino- 
priests    here    is   an    Oxford   graduate,  a  meml^er  o"f 
Balhol    College,    who   has   recently    written  a  work 
advancing    further    than    this    sect   in    general,    and 
repudiating  works  of  merit,  sitK-e  no  man  can  justify 
himself  or  wash  out   his  own  past  sins,  but   must 
rely  on  Buddha's  righteousness,  and  do  good  works 
as    fruits    and    proofs    of    faith.      In    the    western 
Hongwanji    temple    there    are   many  empty  shrines 
with  figures  of  great  saints  depicted  on  the  walls, 
but  no  images  excepting  a  very  small  wooden  image' 
about  two  feet  high,  of  the  founder  of  the  sect  In 
the  chancel,  and  in  the  dependent  temple  adjoining  a 
gilt  wooden  figure  of  the  Amida  incarnation  of  Budcllia 
about  three  feet  hifdi. 

The  tem^)Ie  and  its  anne.es,  for  they  are  really 
a  series  of  great  halls,  give  one  rather  tlie  idea  of 
picture  galleries  than  of  places  of  worship.  I 
should  have  mentioned  before  a  fine  sacred  tree 
in  the  courtyard  in  front,  the  Glngko  biloba, 
which    is    believed    to   protect    the    temple   ao-ainst 


I  i 


i 

i 

i 

I 
1 

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I 

1 

! 

1 

"1 

fi- 

■if 

1 

■I    .'  II 


A  SKCOND   VISIT  TO   KIOTO 


201 


liie  by  discharging-  sliovvers  of  water  vvlienever  there 
is   a   eoiiUagratioii    in  the   neighbourhood.     On    the 
walls  hang  many  a  kakemono,   i.e.   lianging  painted 
scrolls,     glorifying    Buddha,    and   also    portraits   of 
great  divines,  some  of   them  said  to  be  more  than 
two  or  three  centuries  old.     JNIost  attractive  in  one 
of  the  great  halls  was  a  series  of  beautiful  pictures 
of    snow   scenes    on    the   sliding   panels.      One   set 
represented  the   snow   on    pines,   another   on  plum- 
trees,  an(^ther  on    bamhoos.      The  execution  is   ad- 
niiral)le,  whatever  may  be  said  of  the  perspective. 
A  very  favourite  flower  in  the  decoration  and  carvings 
of  this    tem])lo   is  the   tree   peony,  which  competes 
for  distinction  in  these    designs   with    the   imperial 
chrysanthemum.       One   hcJl    was    surrounded    wdth 
representations  of  flocks  of  geese  in  every  conceivable 
position    on   a   gold   ground.     All   these   paintings, 
perfectly  preserved  as  they  are,  seem  to  have  been 
painted,  not  on  the  panels,  but  on  paper  Avhich  has 
been  afterwards    glued   to    the   panels.      One   could 
not  but  regret  that  the    effect   of   this    magnificent 
group  of  buildings,  whose  architecture  is  so  charac- 
teristic,   is    somewhat  marred   by  a    large   adjacent 
structure,  which  has  recently  been  erected  in  what 
is  imagined  to  be  European  style.     These  1-iiildings 
are   a   college   for  young   priests,  and   also  a  girls' 
school,    the    intention    being    to    supply    a    lil)eral 
education  on  modern  lines,  coml>incd  with  trainino' 
in  the  reformed  Buddhism. 

Close  by  this  temple  is  another  cathedral  edifice, 
the  eastern  Hongwanji,  which  is  as  yet  unfinished. 


iil 


1 1 


Hi 


■h:;| 


202 


ItAMIiLKS    J\    JAPAN 


>^^thou^h  ii  l,as  Inrn  tliirty  years  i,,  lel.iiil.ling  after 
tlH'  <l('^(nicli(>n  (.f  flu>  ancioiit  temple  |,y  iUv.  AVlien 
coiupleted  it  will  Ih.  ih.  largest  temple  in  Japan,  and 
'I  <1i(I..rs  Ihun  alHK.st  every  other  temple  in  having 
Its  walls  of  .nassJNc  masonry.  Before  it  is  finished^ 
It  IS  eomputed  that  it  will  have  cost  about  a  million 


/y.^'' 


A   JAl'ANKSK   LADY. 


do 


^  Jlars.  Whatever  may  be  thought  of  the  decay  of 
Jkiddhism  in  general,  there  is  certainly  life  and  zeal 
ill  the  Tlongwanji  sect,  if  we  may  judge  by  the 
voluntary  offerings  given  not  only  by  the  rich,  but 
by  the  poor,  and  that  through  the  length  and  breadth 
of  the  nation.     Many  of  the  poorest  Lave  given  both 


A   SECOND    VISIT    To    KIOTO 


203 


their  persoiKil  lultour  and  gifts  of  in.itciial.     Amoii;Tst 
the  iijost  ivniarl<al,lc  ovidcm^cs  of  devotion  are  tlie 
contributions  of  Hoinethin,<r  like  L'50,000  women,  who 
,nave  their  hair  as  an  oin-riiig  to  Biuhlha,   to  make 
the  ropes  eniph.ved  in  hojstin.;  the  great  stones  of 
the  outer  walls  into  their  places.      We  saw  fiflv-thre.. 
of  these  ropes  of  I'ieh  gh)ssy  black  hair,  each  two  spans 
in  circumference.     I  am  unable  to  state  the  lenoth 
of  each,  but  should   think  it  was  probably  Ibrty^or 
hfty  feet.     When  we  know  how  the  women  of  the 
country  prize  their  hair,  an.l   the  pains  they  take  in 
arranging    their   rich    black    tresses,  we   cannot  bui 
recognise  the  devoted  zeal  which  has  impelled  them 
to  such  a  sacrifice.     I  should  add  that  this  temple 
has   been    built    without   any    subvention    from    the 
state.     The  carvings  of  the  ceiling  and  of  the  cornices, 
which  were    in    coui-se   of  execution,  certainly  show 
no   falling   off    in    the    bol.lness    and    accuracy    of 
Japanese  art. 

But  I  will  not  weary  my  readers  by  the  monotonous 
iteration  of  descriptions  of  Japanese  temples,  which 
are  so  unilbrm  in  general  character.    Our  second  day's 
sojourn  w^e  devoted  to  lionising  the  east  side  of  Kioto. 
Here  the  city  extends  close  to  the  foot  of  a  mountain 
range,  which  is  densely  wooded  to  the  bottom.     It 
forms,  in  fact,  a  background  rising  mimediately  from 
the  terminati(m  of   the  streets.     Buried  among  the 
trees,  high  up  and  low  down,  are  countless  temples. 
Crowds  of  pilgrims,  with  thc'ir  palmer's  dress  and  great 
umbrella  hat ;  jjeggar  children  whining  after  us,  '  The 
eating  thing  I  cannot  do,'  meaning  that  they  have 


'SflU 


i 


•J04 


RAMBLES   IN   JAPAN 


nothing  to  oai,  and  iire  ready  f,,,-  donations,  fill  every 
[Hith.      Walking  np  hy  the  side  ..f  a  eyelopean  wall, 
wo    turned    to   see    tl..>    .•elehratcd    Duihiitsu   (great 
]iuddlia),  wliuse  saered  eiieloHiiro  is  surrounded  by  this 
luagnilieent  masonry.     The  Daihiilsii  owes  its  origin  to 
'1»''  Ik'Io  Ilideyoshi,  a  little  more  than  three  hundred 
years  ago.     It  has  unfortunately  more  than  onee  been 
destroyed  by  fire  and  carthcjuake,  the  two  enemies  of 
historic  momimcnts   in  Japan.     Tlie   <.riginal   image 
was  of  br(mze,  destroyed    by  an    earth.juake.     'IV- 
present,  a  wooden  one,  which  is  oidy  a  hundred  years 
old,  consists  simply  of  the  head  and  shoulders  of  the 
■sage.     Some  idea  of  its  colossal  size  may  be  gamed 
by  a  statement  of  the  measurements,  the  height  of 
the  image   being  60  feet,  the  face  30  feet  long,  the 
eyebrows  8  feet,  and    the   shoulders  43  feet  across. 
(Gigantic  as  it  is,  if  one  can  examine  it  from  a  sufficient 
distance,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  conventional  placidity 
of  expression  is  most  perfectly  rendered.     Outside  is 
hung  the  great  bell,  weighing  over  GO  tons,  and  one 
of  the  largest  in  Japan. 

In  another  temple,  the  Sanju-Sangendo,  con- 
taining 33,333  images  of  Kwannon,  the  goddess  of 
mercy,  are  long  corridors.  There  are  1,001  images 
of  the  goddess,  life-size,  and  all  gilded,  i)laced 
tier  behind  tier.  Tliey  are  all  the  work  of  artists 
celebrated  in  history,  and  it  is  boasted  that  in  not  one 
of  the  thousand  and  one  are  the  lace  or  position  of 
the  hands  or  arrangement  of  the  articles  that  they 
hold  identical.  The  dificrences,  however,  are  often 
very  slight.      The    number  33,333    is  made    up  by 


The 


m 


i 


'   r 

''i' 


A   SECOND    VISIT   TO    KIOTO 


207 


reckoning  nil  the  smaller  figures  which  urc  in  the 
omanicntution,  espciunlly  those  on  the  gii.h-d  haloes 
which  HumMind  each  liead.  (.,  the  rcntiv  of  thr 
temple  is  n  largo  seated  fi^  ,;■,  of  Kw.iniinn,  m,, 
rounded  In  oight-aiid-twenty  of  Ikt  tr.iditioii.il 
followers.  In  the  days  of  archciy,  the  great  i  imuph 
of  a  Japane.-.  howman  w/ih  to  })e  nhlo  to  send  an  arrow 
from  one  end  to  (he  other  of  th<  ^  rrandali  (.f  tins 
i»uilding.  The  cost  of  the  statues  of  this  temple  must 
be  fabulous. 

Near    this    is    a    Shinto    temple,    w.ihout    any 
images,    but   with    tlni   shrine    simply    (.ccupied    l)y 
a  large  mirror,    encircled  by  two    wreaths  of  white 
paper.     To  see   the  immense  variety  of  temples  on 
this  mountain  side,  devoted  to  all  kinds  of  hideous 
idols,  to  incarnations  of  Buddha,  to  gods  of  thunder, 
rain,  wealth,  pleasure,  to  the  gods  of    very  kind  of 
disease,  gives  some  idea  of  the  strange  divergence  of 
practical  Buddhism  from  the  ideal  theories  which  are 
propounded  as  Buddhism  in  the  West.    Tie  children's 
Tiuddhist  temple  is  worthy  of  a  visit.     It  c<  .ntains  any 
luunbcr  of  small  wooden  Ihiddhas,  arranged  in  shelves 
sloping  back,  tier  over  tier,  and  covered   with    the 
baby  clothes  of  infants  who  have  died  und.'r  a  year 
old.     One  of  the  most  remarkable  and  beautiful  of 
these  temples,  that  of  Kiyomigu,  is  a  vast  .■  ^ructure 
erected  on  a  great  framework,  leaning,  as        were 
against  the  steep  side  of  the  mountain.     Tht   frame- 
work, as  will  be  seen  from  tli(>  illustration  on  pa  v  199, 
is  many  storeys  high,  and  the  roof  is  thatched,     ft  is 
uu  one  side  of  the  ravine,  with  a  similar  but  smaller 


I. 


11 'i 


w 


208 


RAMBLES    IN    JAl'AN 


temple   fadn^^  it  on   the  otlier  side.     Lookin-r  down 
from  the  [)latf()rm,  this  (]ell  nives  the  imjjression  of 
a  veritaltk'  al)yss.      Wide  corridors  encircle  the  temple 
on  all  four  sides.     The  outer  couit  is  merely  separated 
from  tiiem  by  the  supporting'  columns  of  the  roof,  so 
that  it  is  practically  one  vast  open  hall.    At  the  further 
end   is  a  long  matted  corridor,  and  witliin  that  the 
holy  of  holies,  wliich  contains  thi-  shrines,  and  where 
lights  are  ke])t  burning.     We  had  just  left  this  temple 
when  an  unexpected  rainfall  drove  us  into  a  pagoda, 
which  we  could  ascend,  and  under  the  verandah  of  the 
ui)per  storey  we   opened  our  lunch  bag  and  I'csted, 
with    the  magnificent  panorama  of  the  city  and  its 
plain    in  front.     I  could  not  regret  that  our  t(>niple- 
trotting  was  anested   by   tlie   rain,  for  two   days  of 
countless   Ihiddhas  and  thousands  of  Kwannons  had 
pretty  well  exhausted  me,  and  even  the  finest  works 
of  art  when  too  often  repeated  become  mon(,tonous. 

As  a  contrast  to   the   temple-covered    mountain, 
next  day  we  rode  to  the   1  )oshisha,  the  earliest  and 
greatest  missionary  educational  institution  in  Japan, 
and  of  which  the  famous  Joseph  Xeeshinia,  one  of 
the  earliest  and  most  eminent  of  Japanese  Christians, 
was  principal  until  his  death,  the  year  before  our  visit. 
It  was  founded  in   1875  by  the  American  Board  of 
.Missions.      1   little    expected    to  find   so  vast  a  col- 
lection of  buildings.     The  grounds  niid    Jialls  cover 
many  acres.     Thei'e  is  a  fine   lofty  chapel,  a  library 
of  three  tliousand  English  v(.liini(>s,  halls  and  schools 
for  theoretical  and  practi(.'al  chemistry,  physical  science 
lecture   halls  with    splendid  apparatus,  dininp-  halls 


ti>! 

i 


^ 


K 

w 

95 


//-■ 


Tifil|^^|4g^| 


r-^  -/r^^ssi 


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1  -1 


I 

i 

I: 

I 

i 


ii; 


j!:l' 

i:l; 


li'!   ■ 


A   SECOND   VISIT   TO    KIOTO 


211 


a  theological  department;  all  separate  buildings 
in  Western,  not  Japanese  style,  none  of  them 
(jxcepting  the  chapel  having  any  architectural  pre- 
tensions. There  are  also  dormitories  for  four  hundred 
students,  professors'  houses  and  gardens  ;  in  fact,  a 
complete  university  in  itself  The  chemistry  hall 
was  built  and  furnished  in  IS!)0  hv  the  'dft  of 
100,000  from  an  American  visitor,  and  another 
100,000  was  recently  left  it  for  the  encouragement 
f  physical  studies  by  a  ])oston  Unitarian.  The 
larger  part  of  the  students  are  non-Christian,  but 
under  Christian  influences  and  teachinf  many  arc 
cf)ntinually  seeking  baptism.  The  theological  schools 
are  very  well  organised.  Dr.  Gordon,  the  senior 
professor,  took  us  over  every  department,  and  asked 
the  native  principal,  Mr.  Neeshima's  successor,  to 
meet  us  at  dinner.  This  is  a  grand  piece  of  mis- 
sionary work  on  a  large  s<;ale,  and  <juite  equal  in 
its  educational  equipment  to  the  Jesuit  Colleore  of 
Tou-se-we,  near  Shanghai. 

We  also  visited  the  training  college  for  nurses, 
which  is  under  the  management  of  the  same  mission. 
The  hospital  is  small,  but  is  large  enough  for  its 
purpose,  which  is  simply  the  training  of  nurses,  and  all 
the  probati(mers  as  well  as  the  nurses  ni'c  Christians. 

One  can  hardly  speak  of  the  Doshisha  without 
referring  to  the  story  of  Jos(q)h  Xeeshima's  life.  Lonij; 
before  the  opening  of  Ja2)an  to  either  commerce  or 
Christianity,  Neeshima  somehow  got  hold  of  a 
Chinese  geography  book  compiled  for  a  nn"ssion 
school,  and  beginning  with  the  words,  '  In  th(3  beoin- 

P  2 


i  <.l 


212 


If    -j  ; 


RAMBLRS    IN    -JArAN 


inng  God  cveaM  the  iK'avens  „ncl  tlic  caith  '     To 
til-    r.u.I,Il,i,t  st.„I,.„t,  wl,„   ],,„!  „„,,„.   |„„„,„  „ 
"the.,  ia.ll,.   this  was  a  .stui-tli,,,;,,   discovery.      What 
could  i,  „„.an  ?     Who  u-a,s  that  God.'     Certainly  JIo 
'hd  not  live  i„  .lapan.      I'erhaps  He  mi.l,t  live  i„ 
Anier.ea,  whence  the  aulhor  of  ihe  hook  ,,,„,c      So 
»t  the  peril  of  his  life,  for  it  ^s  at  that  tin.e  death 
for  a  Japanese  to  k.ne  his  ,.„„„,ry,  ],„  ,„„d^  y^ 
ma    rader  l„  China,  and  taenee  obtained  a  passage 
to    Uston.     Then    he  explaine.l   his  errand    to  the 
'•uptamwho  had  brought  hin,.     '  I  ,.,.„.:.  all  ,|,i.s  way  ' 
>|a.d  he,  '  ,o  liud  Cod,  an.l  there  is  no  one  to  tell  me' 

" "1"'""  f""'^  I""'  •<-  '!■«  owner,  a  wealthy  Chri,'- 

tmn  nierehant,  who  received  hiu.  as  a  son,  and  sent 
>'m  to  college.     Eleven  years  afterwards,   in   18r5 
ho    returned    to   Japan   as  a   missionary    under   the 
.  mencau    Hoard,    and    hcanie    president    of    tie 
lloshisha  C.llege,  just  then  fonnded. 

This  Do.s|,isha  was  the  earliest  college  for  higher 

""™"r,   '"     '"''■ '     '""    "ft"-    «'■»«    years  ^„s 

followed   i,y  one  of  ,h,.  three   upper  grade  colleges 

mamta,ne,    l,y  the  governn.ent,  originally  established 
in  Osaka,  l,„t  h.ter  r..u,oved  to  Kioto     Its  l.uildino-, 
..re  m  another  sul.url,  of  the  city,  and  though  nsef.d 
are  ecrtandy  not  ornamental.      It  has  often  perplexed 
'"■•  «■''>■  ""■  •'^•I'MUcse.  whose   ,aste   l,o,h   in  art  and 
-Uess  >s  perlect  in  their  .,„  n  style,  when  the,-  attempt 
foreign  style,  whelher  it  l„.  in  dress  or  architecture 
not  only  do  not  approach  tl,e  heanliful,  but  generally 
""'""■"  ""^  ■■'l«olutely  ugly.     We  ha,l  here  the  advan- 
tage ol  bemg  the  guests  of  IVofcssor  Sharpe,  who  is 


A   SFX'OND    VISIT   TO    KIOTO 


213 


was 
e.oes 


pronounced  1)y  the  Japanese  to  be  the  best  English 
professor  in  Japan,  and  whose  warm  hospitality,  rich 
fund  of  information  and  cultured  criticism  made  our 
visit  one  of  the  most  charming  reminiscences  of  the 
tour. 

The  passion  for  industrial  exhibitions  has  reached 
Japan,  or  probably,  a  patriot  would  tell  us,  originated 
there.     The  Imperial  Exliibition  at  Kioto,  just  now 
open,  was  a  very  European  looking  affair,  and  practi- 
cally nothing  but  a  great  bazaar.     Its  great  attraction 
was  that  the  purchaser  of  a  ticket  for  admission  could 
through    it  obtain  admission  to  what  are  called  the 
(hardens  of  the  Empress,  and  for  visiting  which  this 
ticket  was  indispensa])le.     The  ^likado  by  this  con- 
cession very  substantially  patronised  the  exhibition, 
and  ensured  its  success.     My  visit  to  it  gave  me  an 
opportunity  of  purchasing  at  very  little    cost  small 
sets  of  tools  of  the  various  trades,  carpenters,  book- 
binders, engravers,  etc.,  which  by  their  strikmg  origin- 
ality antl  (contrast  w^ith   our  own  are  most  valual)le 
illustrations  of  Japanese  art.      As  Kioto  is  a  great 
centre    for    porcelain    manufacture,    we    had    oppor- 
tunities of  watching  parts  of  the  process  of  production, 
and  of  la\ing  in  a  store  of  choice  vases  for  wedding 
presents.     The  part  of  the  building  best  W(H'th  a  visit 
was  the  department  illustrative  of  the  silk  and  em- 
l)roidery   manufacture,   in   which   also  Kioto   is    pre- 
eminent.     Scarfs,  silk  handkerchiefs  and  embroideries 
for  screens  of  great  delicacy  and  richness,  in  which  I 
suppose  Japan  is  unrivalled,  must  extract  from  any 
visitor  of  taste  his  last  available  yen. 


i    >l 


214 


RAMBLES   IN   JAPAN 


M 


The  Empress'  Gardens,  so  named  because  they  are 
attached    to    what  was    formerly  the    palace  of  the 
empress,  are  still  at  ordinary  times  looked  on  as  the 
emperor's  private  grounds,  and  not  at  all  as  a  public 
park.     Hiere  is  no  great  variet}-  of  flowers  or  shrubs, 
but   the   labyrinths,    artifh-ial    lilipntian    mountains' 
ornamental   waters,    and   loxel)-    shaded  walks   with' 
noble  trees  most  artistically  arranged,  are  its  special 
features.     Four  wonderfid  specimens  of  wistaria,  now 
one  blaze  of  blossom,  shaded  the  whole  length  of  a 
very    long    bridge    across    an    artificial    lake.     The 
wistaria  at  home  I  should  be  almost  inclined  to  place 
before    the    e-herry   as    the    l)riglitost  lioral  glory  of 
Japan.     One  seldom  sees  it  in  such  masses  as  in  this 
garden  ;  but  it  is  abundant  in  all  the  forests,  where 
its  effect  as  it  shoots  its  clindjing  branches  from  tree 
to  tree,   laden   and   apparently  weighed  down   with 
rich  purple  clusters  of  bloom,  contrasts  magnificently 
with  the  azaleas,  red,  white  and  pink,  below  it.     Nor 
is  its  effect  less  when,  in  the  absence  of  forest  tree  to 
•support  it,  it  ccmtents  itself  with  forming  a  massive 
shrub  not  unlike  a  luxuriant  l>Iaekberry  in  its  mode 
of  growth. 

We  ga^'e  one  day  to  rather  a  long  expedition  to 
the  mountain  kii..\vn  as  Ilieizan.  The  slopes  of  this 
">">"il->in  supply  the  favourite  summer  campincr. 
ground  of  residents  of  Kioto  and  Osaka.  Knowii^g 
It  would  l)e  a  long  day's  work,  we  took  kurumas  to 
the  mountain  foot.  Tt  was  indeed  a  hot  climb  up  the 
rugged  path.  We  reached  a  summit,  and  at  first 
fancied  we  had  won  our  goal  ;  but  no,  it  was  not  the 


— J^ 


s     t  i 

1     I 


iv  • 


l|!|J!: 


A    SKCONI)    VISIT    'JO    KIOTO 


21  7 


suiiiiiiit.  'J'li.;i  was  tliicc  miles  Ini'ljicr  oil.  I\'it|^uinn 
as  the  i'liiilicr  cliinli  was,  tlir  view  of  vallcws  on 
I'itlicf  side,  and  Kioto  hclow  us,  iis  ti-niplcs  and 
.gardens  sj)ra\v]ino'  o\cr  ;i  vast  cxtciil  of  j.lain,  an<l 
wooded  hills  fringing  ilio  landscape  hevond,  willi  a 
|H"e|.  of  Luke  Jiiwa.  Well  repaid  us.  Tliere  was  a  little 
rest-shed  on  the  way,  l.nt  so  full  of  loiinh  uxmi  and 
lioys  that  Ave  were  .ulad  to  tind  a  p'ine-tree,  which 
allbnled  some  shade  on  the  side  of  what  was  almost 
n  precipice,  where  we  contrived  to  sit  and  rest  and 
<"njoy  the  prospect  as  we  Inn.hcd.  1  think  tlu' 
entomology  on  tliis  mountain  was  the  most  varied  I 
met  witli  in  the  country. 

Mount     IliiM'zan    also    was    the    scene    of    maiiv 
of    the    exploits    of   lienkei,    the    Jaj)anese    Samson. 
Aecording  to  the  legend,  he  was  eioht  feet  lii<di    and 
as  strong  as  a  hundred  men.      One  of  his  feats  was  to 
••ariy  a  great  temple  liell  up  the  mountain,  but  on 
reaching  the  summit  tlie  hell  continuously  cried  out, 
'I  want  to  go  hack.  I  want  to  gol)ack.'  whereupon  he 
let  it  go  rolling  down  to  the  mountain  foot,  where  it 
may  now  be  seen  suspended  in  a  temple      In  proof 
of  the  truth  of  the  story,  tliey  sliow  us  tlie  ravine 
whicli  was  ploughed  out  ])y  the  bell  in  its  course  from 
the   top   to  the  bottom    of   the     aountain.      On    the 
mountain,  amongst  others,  arc  two  temjiles  connected 
with  eacli  other  by  an  arched  galleiy.     The  legend  of 
these  is  that  this  was  th<'  yoke  whicli  I'xMikei  wore 
on  his  shoulders,  and  by   wliich   he  caiiied   the   twin 
temples  and  set  them  down  where  they  now  stand. 
During  the  Middle  Ages  Hieizan  was  the  sacred 


m 


1 


218 


RA MULES   IN    JAl'AN 


I 


mouiitiiin  of  Jiipam'.sc  liuiLlhisiii,  iuhI  tradition  raises 
tlic  iiunilxT  of  the  temples  wliicli  coNorcd  it  to  three 
thousand,  containing  many  tlionsand  warrior  juiests, 
wliii  wore  nothing'  less  than  oruanised  1)anditti,  and 
\V(Mv  in  llic  haliit  of  niakinu,  phmdering  cxeursions 
into  the  neiuhliouriiiL;  country,  talving  part  in  the 
petty  trilt.il  wars  of  the  ditferont  J)aimios.  It  was 
not  till  aliout  thivc  hundred  and  lil'tv  years  a'^o  that 
these  monks,  the  terror  of  Kioto,  were  driven  out  of 
their  strongholds,  and  all  tlieir  temples  >iiid  1»uildinirs 
hurnt  by  the  Shoguns.  A  eentury  later  the  Toku- 
gawa  Shoguns  allowed  the  monasteries  to  be  re- 
established, but  strictly  limited  their  munber.  The 
mountain  still  has  a  special  sanctity,  and  until 
recently  there  was  a  notice  at  its  foot,  '  No  woman  or 
cow  permitted  to  ascend  this  mountain.'  Near  the 
summit  are  the  impression  of  two  colossal  feet  carved 
in  the  rock,  held  by  the  devout  to  be  the  impression 
of  Uuddha's  feet  when  he  descended  to  visit  Japan. 
Its  sanctity,  however,  did  not  prevent  my  securing  a 
very  fair  take  of  buttertiies,  which  were  flitting  about 
as  innocent  as  myself  of  the  vcnn-ration  expected  of 
pilgrims  to  these  sacred  heights,  and  were  most 
interesting,  as  many  of  them  represent  our  familiar 
English  forms  of  Vaiwssas^  tortoise-shells,  and 
fritilhiries  ;  though,  contrary  to  what  ha2)pens  in  the 
case  of  mammals,  the  Japanese  species  seems  to  be 
always  larger  and  finer  than  their  European  congeners. 
As  the  Mikado  and  his  suite  wei'e  at  Kioto  at  the 
period  of  our  first  visit,  we  were  not  able  to  see  the 
private  apartments  of  the  palace,  but  felt  it  was  fully 


A   SECOND    VISIT  TO    KIO'I" 


'19 


worth  while  wln'ii  at  Usuka  soiiio   weeks   !  ii        m.    v\\\\ 
over  oil   purpose  to  inspect  them,  and  w  lu  we 

rewarded.  A  tall  monotonous  wall,  covered  with 
stucco  and  riKjfed  wiih  thatch,  surrounds  tlie  park 
in  which  the  cluster  of  huildiiins  forming  the  palaces 
stand.  There  are  several  <>ates,  the  centre  one  bein*'' 
iii'ver  opened  hut  foi'  the  ]\Iikado  himself  Passing 
I  he  sentries  and  [)resentini;  our  letter,  we  were 
admitted  to  a  lodge  within  the  gate,  where  we  were 
met  by  a  most  courteous  gentleman  and  old  oilieial  of 
the  Mikado,  evidently  a  man  of  liberal  education—a 
sort  of  hereditary  chamberlain,  as  we  presumed  from 
his  telling  us  that  he  succeeded  his  father  in  att<.'n- 
dance  on  the  late  Mikado,  and  with  natural  pride  he 
pointi'd  out  to  us,  as  we  passed  through  the  palace, 
his  own  ])ortrait  in  a  large  wall  jiainting  repn-csenting 
a  grantl  annual  procession      After  signing  our  names 

in  a  large  register,  he  c lucted  us  across  the  rounds, 

which  are  beautifidly  kept  in  native  fashion,  to  the 
reception- hall,  only  used  on  state  occasions  and 
festivals.  The  panels  are  covered  with  paintings, 
but  the  best  pictures  have  been  removed  to  Tokio. 
as  the  emperor  does  not  often  reside  here.  Here  we 
were  shown  the  Mikado's  throne,  with  canopy  and 
lich  curtains  of  white,  red,  and  black  silk,  witliin 
which  the  emperor  us(h1  to  he  seated  on  a  mat.  The 
imperial  badge  of  the  chry.santhemum  with  sixteen 
petals  was  worked  in  everywhere,  in  cornices  and 
curtains,  and  seemed  1o  he  repeated  wherever  there 
was  space  to  receive  it.  Yet  with  all  this,  there  was 
a    strange   air   of    desolation  about   these   cold  and 


i' 

(i: 


2 '20 


IIAMIU-KS    IN    JAI'AN 


silent  clmnilKTs.  In  a  .second  ;ui(l  iniieli  Ijir^nr  Imll 
wiiH  a  more  inotleni  tlwonc,  in  wliidi  the  empeior  sat 
ill  -'i  fliair,  cncloseil  in  rnrtains  (>{'  ijie  richest  silk", 
which  only  |iciniii  icil  hi-  I'cct  i(»  he  seen. 

In  iVuntofthis  thfone  is  a  Hioht  of  eiohlecn  wide 
steps  h'jiilinu'  !<'  the  ore.il  cdiirt  lielow.  Ivich  o|'  the 
steps  eorrespdinlcd  to  a  [tarticnhir  raid<  of  the  ohl 
iioliility.  (Mlicials  not  nolth'  were  oMiu'ed  to  stand 
"II  the  eailh  lieh>w  the  h)W08t  step,  ami  Lifeat  were 
ihe  heaithniiiinos  anioii'^st  the  Dainuos,  ;.nd  inaiiv 
the  feuds  enu('n(h'i'e(l,  l»y  one  ohtaiiiiiiL:  <i  hiuher 
i^raih'  than  anotliei-  on  tliis  staifease  of  rank.  A  h>n'_j 
conidor  led  from  this  hall  to  the  lihraiv  oi' studv  of 
the  palace,  a  \'er}-  line  room  with  priceless  lacipier 
boxes  arianu'ed  on  shelves  to  hold  the  emperor's 
hooks. 

Oni'  eharniin<T  crnide  told  us  that   he  spent  man\' 
hours    a    day    with    the    late    emperor    here    in    his 
study,  for  he  was  a   ,ui'eat   student    and   very  fond   of 
,ii'e()oraphy.      Tlioueh    never  aMe    to   ^n   hevond    the 
.uronnds   of  the    palace,   he  was   most   curious   as   to 
what  went  on   in   the  outside  world,  and  used  to  ask 
all  sorts  of  (piestions  from  his  courtiers  and  atten- 
dants.     Practically,  with  the  exception  of  one  or  tw(» 
annua!   processions,    in    which    he  was   concealed,    he 
never  could  go   heyond  the  thirty  acres  of  o-round 
that  composed  the  j)ark  and  oardens  of  his  palace. 
AVhat  an  idea  of  gilded  misery  that  palace  gives  one  ! 
The  })ri\ate  chamhcrs  of  the  old  Mikados,  separated 
from  the  great  hall,  and  the  sliding  screens  of  which 
were    richly  decorated,  consist   of  eleven    rooms,  in 


A    .SIX'OMD    VISIT    lO    KIoT 


O 


22  I 


w 


liicli  I 


|>I'  H 


i\   Iiiiiidivd  yc'irn  tlio  .su('i'eHMivu  .Mil 


ku<Mt.s 


liuvo  li\v,l  ,111,1  ,|i,,|.     'I'll,,  ,„.,! 

nnr..nn,l(.,l  l.y  ihr  ap/.rtm.nt.  ..tlii.   frmulo  nttiMi- 


iiinrv  sittiiifj-room  w 


•laiifs   tliroLi: 


'•ilorie  11  messfiMc  couM  l.c  l;ikcii 


t"    'i.n,  wlu'ii  li(>  pn.sstMl  to  n  room  ut  tlu'  otlier  rn.l, 
whore  ho  reecivod  his  offirinls.      iJchiiid  t] 


IIS  arc  nine 

liand.omo  hodnjoms,  with  ridily  paintr.l  pands,  the 
♦centre  one  lu-ing  tho  emperor's,  so  that  lie  is  carei'iiliy 
sofludea  at  ni-lii,  ns  in  the  day.  Our  courtier  guidr 
told  my  daughter  anecdotes  of  the  late  Mikad.san.l 
expressed  liis  satisfaction  at  having  for  once  to  con 
duct  a  visitor  who  could  converse  in  Japanese,  as  he 
generally  had  to  go  through  his  explanations  in 
panton)ime,  for  no  guitles  or  servants  are  permitted 
to  cross  tho  gates. 

Our  courteous  friend  told  us  that  we  ought  to  see 
the  Castle  of  Nijo,  or  old  Sliogun's  palace,  to  see  which 
he  would  give  us  a  letter  to  the  chamberlain  there. 
We  parted  with  much  (;cremony,  and  when  we  told 
our  men   to   take    us  to  the  castle   they  denmrred, 
telling  us  it  was  of  no  use.     We  evidently  rose  in 
their  estimation  when  on  presenting  our  letter  the 
sentry  let  us  pass.      A  stately  olKcial   received  tho 
document  with  a  profound  reverence,  and  preceded 
us  within  the  precincts.     Certainly  the  best  had  been 
kept  to  the  last.     It  is  by  far  the  most  palatial  palace 
we  had  seen,  surpassing  Nagoya,  with  lavish  decora- 
tions and  gilding  everywhere,  but  all  in  the  best  taste, 
ft  is  larger  than  the  palace,  except   for   the  great 
audience  hall,  and  certainly  the  Sliogun  took  care  of 
himself  at   his  superior's  expense.      Instead  of  the 


.).).) 


RAMI5KKS    IX    JAPAN 


fS   I 


if 


i:^ 


ei,<i;lite('n  .steps  for  tlic  various  ranks  in  the  Mikado's 
palace,  there  were  seven  steps,  on  wliidi  aec.-ording  to 
their  rank  tho  hiiihest  Daimios  eould  stanch  Tlie 
minor  Daimios  couM  not  stand  even  on  the  lowest  of 
these.  It  was  vei'v  interesting  to  hear  the  account 
of  all  these  old-world  ceremonials  from  those  who  had 
themselves  t,il<en  ])art  in  tliem.  All  tlu;  walls  and 
ceilings  were  j)ainted  in  panels,  the  series  of  subjects 
ditferiiig  for  each  room  and  wonderfully  ingenious. 
\\'e  may  ren)ark  that  its  decoraticjus  are  on  a  much 
l;irgei' and  \aster  .scale  than  those  1  have  seen  clse- 
wliere  in  the  country,  ivu-h  hall  is  nanuMl  from  the 
subject  of  its  decoration.  In  the  tiger  hall  there  are 
perhaps  a  dozen  tigers  in  different  attitudes,  and 
b(jth  the  animals  and  the  phmts  of  the  jungle  are  all 
represented  life-si;^e,  as  ar(;  the  eagles  and  j^eacocks 
in  other  rooms.  J'^very where  was  to  be  seen  the 
gilt  trefoil  crest  of  the  Tokugawa  Slioguns,  except  in 
tlie  one  suite  reserved  for  tin;  .Mik-ado,  when  once  a 
year  he  came  to  \isit  him,  ;ind  there  tlu^  gold 
chrysanthemum  is  on  every  hinge  and  handle  and 
panel.  We  were  delighted  with  this  gi'and  old 
feudal  castle.  It  is  not  a  little  anuising  to  obser\e  the 
ditlercnt  o[)inions  that  are  given  concerning  it.  ( >ne 
guide  book  describes  it  as  '  an  old  and  dingy  build- 
ing '  ;  another,  as  I  venture  to  think'  much  more  truh'. 
.says,  'This  pala(;e,  a  (Ux-ani  of  golden  beauty  within, 
is  exteriudly  a  good  example  of  the  Ja})anesc  fortress, 
with  its  turi'cts  at  the  corners  and  its  walls  of 
Cyclopean  masonry.  It  is,  however,  only  a  fraction 
of  its  former  self.' 


n 


''N 


urn  \  ''  -" 

'''Li 


v4i  t-= 


P 

o 

'A 


^,I.fi.f:;/i 


I 


III'   I    ' 


t 


225 


CHAPTER    ^11 


OSAKA 


From  Kioto  to  Osaka,  from  iMlinhurirh  to  Glascrow. 
from  history,  arts,  and  litoraturc  to  comnierce  and 
manufoctures  !  The  train  winds  amongst  hills  for  a 
few  miles,  then  foi'  the  rest  of  the  way  down  the 
valley  of  the  Yodogawa,  through  paddy  holds  as 
uninteresting  as  Chatmoss.  From  the  top  of  a  hill 
midway  between  Kioto  and  Osaka  l)oth  cities  are 
plainly  visible.  A  propo-'^  of  this  view,  1  may  give  an 
ilhistration  of  the  Japanese  yl^]sop.  Once  upon  a 
time  an  Osaka  frog,  having  heard  the  fame  of  the 
beauties  of  Kioto,  thought  he  could  not  do  better  than 
migrate  thither.  Another  frog  resident  in  Kioto 
heard  wonderful  tales  of  the  bustle  and  liveliness  of 
Osaka,  and  wearied  of  Kioto,  determined  to  change 
his  home.  Meeting  at  tlie  top  of  the  hill,  where  each 
hoped  to  obtain  a  view  of  the  paradise  to  which  he 
was  bound,  they  raised  themselves  up  full  of  eager 
expectation,  forgetting  that  in  that  i)osture  a  frog 
looks  backward.  'Well,  really,'  said  the  dweller 
among  tlie  Osaka  swanips,  '  Kioto  looks  uncommonlv 
like  Osaka,  and  every  bit  as  flat.  1  could  not  do 
better  than  go  home  again.'  SSo  tli.-it  is  Osaka.' 
exclaimed  the  resident  of  the  capital  ;  '  how  wonder- 

Q 


i^l 


il 

m 


iiP 


m 


n     ■! 


It 


fil 


226 


RAMRI-E.^    IN    JAPAN 


fully  similar  it  is  to  Kioto!  1  don't  see  tliat  1 
shoiiM  1)0  tlio  gainer  by  proeeeiling.'  And  both  frogs 
returned  home  well  satisfied,  and  with  no  desire  to 
pursue  their  ae(|uaintanee  with  the  outer  world. 
.Moral — Don't  look  at  everything  through  your  own 
spectacles. 

Osaka,  with  a  population  of  nearly  lialf  a  million, 
is  the  second  city  in  the  enijtire,  and  whilst  being 
the  Manchester  of  Japan,  is  at  the  same  time  an 
ancient  city,  and  first  came  into  prominence  in  the 
sixteenth  century,  when  ITideyoshi,  W'ho  has  been 
called  the  Napoleon  of  Japan,  made  it  his  fortress  and 
capital.  But  he  has  greater  claims  on  the  respect  and 
admiration  of  Rurope  than  even  his  development  of 
the  commerce  of  Osaka  and  his  extension  of  the 
Japanese  empire,  for  amongst  many  wise  measures 
of  internal  policy  he  gave  toleration  to  the  Christians, 
and  it  was  under  his  I'ule  that  the  Roman  (*atholi(t 
missions  were  spread  over  the  whole  country.  Ifis 
favourite  general  and  many  of  his  best  troops  were 
Christians,  and  with  them  he  invaded  and  endeavoured 
to  coiKiuer  Corea,  as  a  step  to  the  subjugation  of 
China,  He  succeeded  in  utterly  crushing  the  inde- 
pendence and  also,  alas  !  the  civilisation  of  Corea,  but 
failed  to  make  any  impression  upon  the  Flowery 
Land.  Since  his  invasion  of  Corea,  although  after 
his  death  the  Japanese  trooj)s  were  withdrawn,  the 
peninsula  seems  to  have  sunk  into  still  lower  depths 
of  degradation  ;  and  the  nation  which  was  once  the 
instructress  of  Japan  in  art,  and  the  masterpieces 
of  some  of  whose  artists  still  exist,  has  sunk  to  such 


OSAKA 


2l7 


a   state    as    to   have    earned    from    a    recent    well 
known  traveller  the  character  of  hcino'  the  dreo.s  of 
humanity. 

The  Castle  of  Osaka,  which  still  exists,  was  com- 
menced hy  Hideyoshi  in   laK;!,  and  was  completed  in 
two  years.      It  was  said  to  he  the  stron^'est  fortress 
in  the  country,  as  the  palace  which  it  contained  was  the 
most  ma,friiificcnt.     The  encirclin,i:,-  wall  and  the  sides 
of  the  moat  are  composed  of  masonry  twenty  feet  thick, 
in  the  cydopean  style,  withoiit  mortar  ai«d  with  no 
filling-  in,  hut  solid  throughout.     The  hnest  specimens 
of  tliese  huge  stones  are   near  the  [)rincipal  gateway. 
There  is  an   amusing  tradition   of  the  strata<Tem  by 
which  Hideyoshi  ohtained  hi.^  materials  cheaply.      He 
proclaimed  ovei'  the  whoh^,  country  his  i?itention  ot 
building  this   fortress,  ami   announced  an   enormous 
prize  to  be  given  to  tlie  man  who  should  produce  the 
largest  stone.      The  prize  was  gi'eat  eiiougli  to  tempt 
all  classes,   from   the    greatest   Daimios    downv.-ards. 
and     the    largest     junks    that    could     be    ohiaineil 
were    des})atched    from    e\ery    part    of    tlie    enii)!!*' 
freighted    with    massive    fragments    of   rock    to    tlic 
harbour    of    Osaka.       In    due    time    the    ywl'/.r     was 
awarded,  but    to   only   one  amongst  many   hmidre(l 
competitors.      The  unsuccessful   rivals  were  told   the\- 
might  carry  their  stones  back  again,  but  this  j)crmis- 
sion.  not  being  remunerative,  Avas  not  tak(Mi  adxantauc 
of,    and    Hideyoshi  obtained   materials  and   carrianc 
free  of  cost.     The  castle    was   captured   tliirtv    yeai's 
after  its   erection  by    lyeyasu,  and  its  meinorv   nuist 
be  ever  preserved  as  that  of  the  place  where  in  1808 

Q  2 


I 

i 


0-7Q 


RAM15LES    IN   JAPAN 


■li. 


lyeyasu's  dosccnclaiit,  tlio  last  of  the  Tokugawa 
Shoguiis,  received  the  meinl)er.s  of  the  foreign  legations 
and  for  the  last  time  exercised  the  usurped  imperial 
power. 

Compelled  to  ahandon  it  the  same  year,  the 
Shogun's  retainers  before  departing  set  it  on  fire,  and 
m  a  few  hours  the  grandest  building  in  Japan  was  a 
heap  of  smouldering  I'uins.  The  fortifications  now 
serve  as  the  hcadfjuartcrs  of  the  military  district, 
and  an  artillery  depot  and  barracks  have  been  erected 
on  the  site  of  tlie  ancient  keep  or  donjon,  the  one 
remaining  feature  of  whirh  is  a  deep  and  copious 
well  capal)le  of  supplying  the  whole  garrison  in  tinu; 
of  siege. 

From  the  summit  we  had  an  unbroken  view 
of  the  whole  of  this  Oriental  Venice,  with  its  six 
hundred  bridges  and  canals,  a  complete  network,  and 
the  plain  beyond,  bounded,  by  two  ranges  of  hills. 
The  number  of  tall  faftory  chimneys  standing  out  in 
the  distance  were  a  striking  ccmtrast  to  the  gardens 
which  varied  a  similar  panoi'ama  of  Kioto,  and  were 
certainly  not  congruous  with  the  associations  of  the 
historic  ramparts  watliin  which  we  were  standing. 
One  fact  of  interest  in  connection  with  the  Castle  of 
Osaka  is  that  here  for  the  last  time  the  national 
practice  of  harakiri,  or  suicide,  was  permitted  as  a 
favour  to  criminals  of  honourable  birth  in  lieu  of 
lecapitation.  Twelve  Samui'ai,  who  were  sentenced 
to  death  for  the  murder  of  a  French  .sailor,  claimed 
this  privilege  in  1  8G8. 

With  the  castle  we  have  done  with  the  historic 


OSAKA 


229 


features  of  Osaka  ;  for  its  popular  Rij^hta— tho  mint, 
the  match  factoiies,  the  cotton  mills,  the  iron 
foundries,  the  timber  yards— attractive  though  they 
may  be  to  the  merchant,  are  not  what  we  have 
crossed  three  oceans  to  see. 

But  one  temple  should  be  mentioned,  Tenndji,  a 
large  group  of  jjuildings  in  tine,  park-like  grounds, 
one  of  which  is  the  children's  temple.  At  its  shrine 
were  hundreds  of  children's  clothes,  hanging  from 
ceiling  to  floor  cm  pegs  and  on  little  tioures  of 
Buddha,  and  ])abies'  bibs  covered  the  bell-ropes. 
These  were  all  the  garments  of  deceased  infants 
(jlfered  by  the  mothers.  A  priest  sitting  on  a  mat 
gives  the  l)ereaved  mother,  for  a  fee,  a  shaving  of 
wood  with  the  name  of  the  dead  child  written  on  it. 
This  she  tai-:es  to  another  slii'ine,  where  is  a  pool  of 
water  issuing  from  the  mouth  of  a  colossal  stone 
tortoise.  The  pool  is  full  of  these  slips.  They  ai'e 
cast  into  it  just  wliere  the  water  pours  in  from  the 
tortoise's  mouth,  and  happy  is  the  woman  whose  slij) 
gets  well  soaked  at  once.  It  is  ])elieved  that  this 
will  ensure  the  child  an  easy  passage  to  heaven,  as 
the  water  conveys  the  name  to  Buddha,  who  at  once 
calls  for  them  as  he  reads  them. 

To  me,  naturally,  the  attractions  of  Osaka  centred 
in  tlie  vast  and  successful  missionary  work  which 
is  there  carried  on.  In  the  narrow  district  of  which 
Osaka  is  the  centre,  and  the  population  of  which  is 
over  a  million,  there  are  six  American  missionary 
organi;iiations  at  work  and  one  English,  the  Church 
xMissionary  Society,  which  has  a  very  comi^lete  and 


li 


2;{0 


RAMBLES    IX   .lAl'AN 


11;! 


Ii 


'-■xtciisivc  oi'iiji nidation.  All  llicsc  jirc,  working  in 
jHM'fort  lianiiDiiy  \\itli<uii  ilic  Icasi  IVirtidii,  as  well 
thoy  7iia\-  ill  a  city  of  lialf  a  inillioii.  hcsidos  the 
suburlis.  r>csi(l(.s  these  is  a  I'Vciicli  IN. man  Catholic 
mission.  It  may  uivc  somo  idea  of  missionary  life 
here  to  «leserilie  my  experiences  of  Whit  Sunday  at 
Osaka.  I  was  lodgfMl  in  the  Bishop  Poole  Memorial 
School,  a  laiue  Itoardin^i -school  for  uivini^'  hi'^'hor 
education  on  a  Clii'istian  Inisis  to  Japanese  girls  of 
the  middle  and  upper  classes,  over  which  my 
daughter  j)r(>sides,  fonn<led  in  memory  of  Bishop 
Poole,  the  first  Anglican  missionary  l.ishop.  After 
breakfasting  at  lialf-past  se\en  o'clock,  we  maile  our 
way  into  a  very  poor  part  of  the  city,  wiiere  my 
daughter  holds  a  Sumlay  school.  \\"c  weic  accom- 
panied I»y  one  of  the  native  teachers  and  three  of 
the  elder  girls,  who  h.-iv  lake  classes,  an.l  are  thus 
hegiiining  to  train  for  mi>.>ioii,iry  woi'k.  The  school 
was  a  pool- woman's  dwelling-house.  Partitions  had 
•dl  licen  cleare(l  away,  and  furniture  there  was  none, 
•tnd  thus  tlie  three  rooms  of  wliicji  the  house  con- 
sisted were  thrown  into  one.  As  soon  as  the  singimr 
•ind  prayer  were  oxer,  the  teachers  s(puitted  on  the 
!n;its.  each  with  hei'  class  in  a  semicircle.  Some  of 
I  he  nu)t hers  accompanied  their  cliildi'cii.  It  ha[)pened 
tliat  on  this  very  morning  the  first-fruits  of  this  little 
mission  were  ivaped.  when  a  woman  staxcd  behind 
.111(1  applied  to  be  piepare(|  for  baptism,  ami  also  to 
bring  to  the  font  her  two  little  children.  She 
:tceomj>aiiied  us  to  the  native  serxice,  that  she  might 
be  introduced  to  Mr.  Terasawa,  the  native  clergyman, 


> 

2 


73 


■y, 

> 


:i 


Mil 


!  'i 


r 


OSAKA 


233 


as  u  ciitechumen.  Mr.  Tcmsuvva  is  Lliu  pastor  of 
Trinity  (not  Trinity  Clmpcl),  our  oldest  uiitivc  church, 
;i  largo,  well-huilt  structure,  quite  in  the  native 
style,  yet  unmistakahly  ecclesiastical.  An  Knglish 
missionary  read  prayers  in  Japanese,  and  Mr.  Tera- 
sawa  preached.  Th  jg  were  two  adult  haptisnis,  one 
the  wife  of  a  jud<,'c,  a  h-adinj;-  man  of  lank  here, 
who  himself  is  also  looking  for  hapti.-ni  ;  the  other,  a 
clerk  in  a  government  olliec.  One  of  my  daughter's 
[)upils  was  to  be  baptized,  but  as  an  infant,  at  the 
evening  service.  There  were  about  seventy  com- 
municants— more  than  half  the  adult  congregation. 
Service  over,  we  went  by  iiivitatiou  to  morning  tea 
at  the  parsonage  next  door.  Mr.  Terasawa's  wife 
speaks  Engl'  h  well,  a!ul  her  husband,  though  not 
able  to  converse  fluently,  is  able  to  read  English 
well,  and  had  a  well-selected,  if  small,  English  theo- 
logical library  in  his  quaint  little  study.  I  did  not 
visit  the  afternoon  school,  as  I  had  an  opportunity  of 
joining  in  English  worship  at  Trinity  College,  in  a 
very  neat  college  cha})el,  which  would  not  have 
discredited  an  English  university,  and  was  built  from 
the  designs  of  one  of  our  missionaries,  Mr.  Pole.  The 
congregation  numbered  about  fifty,  and  all,  excepting 
the  English  head  of  the  Japanese  Concession  Police, 
belonged  to  the  families  either  of  our  own  or  the 
American  missionaries. 

In  the  evening  I  went  with  Mr.  Fysun,  one 
of  our  pioneer  missionaries,  who  was  to  take  the 
preachin.fr  at  a  mission-room.  I'his  was  one  kept 
up   by    J\liss    Holland,    a    lady    who,    unconnected 


•J  a  4 


KAMKI.KS    IN    .lAl'AX 


witli  any  .socii'ls',  tlcMitcs   1u'|-hc11,  at  lu-i'  »»\vii  atM. 
to   li('lp;ii.ij;  niiHsioii   work.      She  hnd  urju'iu'il   that   in 
a    coiiiitry    ulicic    tlif   people  are    not  rainiliar   willi 
I  lie  Saliliatli  <la\'s    re-i,  there  Were    iiuiiiy  who  woiihl 
like    lu    hear  soinethiii,!:-  ol'   Christiaiiiiy,    Imt    iiii^iit 
he   toM.    "This    is   not    the    |ire;iekiii,>;   iii^lit.'   and   HO 
iiiiuht  ilekiN  or  I'orut't.      I)iit   if  there  was  preaehin,t;- 
cNcrv  iiiLiht.  no  ehaiii-e  wonhl  he  imIs.slmI.      She  thero- 
tore   hired  a  house  dose  to  some  nmrkets  in  a  very 
Imsy  street,  put   in  a  luirrnoniniii.  uot  the  placid  new 
matted,  him, Li;  l)ri,uhl    pi«tures  ot    ih.'    J{(li'j;ious  Traet 
Soeiety  all   round   the  walls,  ^ot  a  larm'  lantern,  pro- 
jeetint''    in    front,    with     the    amiounecnient    on    the 
transparent    paper  on   one   <'u\v,  •  Tea  eh  in, i;;  of  Christ 
to-ni,i;ht,'  and  ou  the  other  were  depleted  a  eross  and 
a  crown.      She  en,uaged   an   old  wouiau  to  look  alter 
the  phice,  and  o])en  and  li,nht  it  every  evenin,i>'.     She 
uets  (»ne  or  two  friends  to  lielp  her  with   the  singing, 
and    has   managed  to  seeure  a    preacher,   native    or 
foreign,  lay  or  eleri<*,  every  evening  for  mouths.     For 
8ome  time,  when   the   venture  was   lirst  started,  the 
noise    and    jeering    sometimes    ahnost    stopped    the 
preacher.     Ihit  th;it  phase,  iuevitaMe  at  the  heginning 
of  every  such  work,  hail  nearly   passed  over.      When 
we  arrived  we  found  the  three  matted  rooms  packed 
full,  and  a  crowd   st  mding  ten  deep  in  the  street. 
.\fter   a  hymn,   start e< I   hy  two   Enghsh    ladies,   ]\Ir. 
Fyson,  standing  at  the  edge  of  the  roimi,  held  the 
people  for  over  half  an  hour  hy  what  seemed  to  me  a 
torrent  of  eliKpu-nce  as  he  spoke  of  l*entecost.     Texts 
on  the  subject,  paint eil  in  great  letters  on  kakemonos, 


OSAKA 


21}  fi 


III 


were  liiiiii,^  in  fn.ul,  ho  tliut  ull  roiil.l  iv.hI.  After 
Hin«,nh;4  fi^aiii,  I  too  was  oxpcctcl  to  s(»cal<,  aiitl  a 
moiv  (lilliciiil  task  iliaii  atMrcssinn  a  ciftwil  with  uii 
intcrpivfci-  I  never  lia.l.  •iihI  I  ihink-  if  is  iiii|((.,s^il.le 
to  he  iiiteicsting  iiiider  stieh  e(.ii.hl  i.i.is.  There  niav 
liavc  heeii  two  hllli(hc(|  hsIeiiel'S,  and  the  lneellli<j> 
here  ha\'e  ah'eady  heeii  the  means  of  hriiiniii"'  not  a 
fVw  inio  the  Christian  jnld.  Tliore  are  many  sneh 
j)reaehiii'4-|>hiees  in  Osaka,  hnl  what  are  they  ainon.ust 
half  a  niilhoii  i 

Xor  are  these  eliorts  eonliiied  to  the  city  itself. 
I  walked  (lilt  with  my  (hmniiter  one  aftcn-noon  to  a 
simihar  meeiiiiL;'  three  mih's  from  the  outskirts  of  the 
city,  to  a  so-.-aHed  vilhige  of  three  thousand  souls, 
employed  in  iiiakinn-  coarse  pottery  and  farming'.  We 
had  a  most  iininterestinu  walk  first  through  narrow 
Htrccts  and  past  factory  ehimmys,  jind  then  alony  a 
raised  path  tlirou<>h  [)addy  lields  till  we  readied  a 
broad  river,  and  were  ferried  across  to  the  villa"e 
As  1  turned  round  1  counted  from  oi.e  soot  sixtv-two 
factory  chimiievs,  ior  thi>  is  \h  nhv  the  frreat 
cottoii-s[)innin,Li'  centre.  The  use  of  a  house  was 
hired  for  this  w- -kly  meetin<,',  to  v.hich  the  '  .'ad 
teacher  and  ,.  .-,  ajoi-  pupils  went  witli  us,  lo  carry 

the   pict  "id  help  in   the  singiiin'.     The  rooms  of 

tli<'  hoii i(u  thrown   to,L"t]icr,  about  sixty  people, 

chietly  women,  soon  assembled.  Slippinn-  ,,tf  our 
shoes  at  the  door,  we  passed  to  ih  •  iiinei'  end,  which 
was  open  to  the  garden.  A  lar^e  coloured  pi'int  of 
the  Ascension  was  unrolled  and  jtiimrd  up,  and  a 
hymn    was    oung,    only   j.iincd    'ii    i.v     the    \  isiturs. 


23G 


RAMBLES   IN   JAPAN 


lil 


l':t 


Then  the  teacher  spoke  for  half  uii  hour,  then  again 
there  was  singing,  which  always  attracts  these  people, 
another  address  from  my  daughter  explaining  the 
Ascension,   and  then  singing  and  prayer  concluded 
the  meeting.     This  is  a  new  mission,  and  there  are 
no  Christians  yet,  but  several  are  interested,  and  the 
people  were  all  very  (juiet  and  attentive.     This  is 
the  simple  way  in  which  out-stations  begin,  and  the 
seed   is  sown.     On  our  return  we  halted  at  a  tea- 
house in  a  village  where  there  was  formerly  a  similar 
meeting,  until   the    Buddhist   priest   interfered   and 
threatened  any  one  who  should  lend  their  house  for 
the  purpose.      This  is  the  kind  of  local  opposition 
which  we  must  always  expect  from  time  to  time  ;  but 
what  is  this  compared  to  the  resistance  of  the  Irish 

priesthood  ? 

There  being  no  division  of  days  into  weeks  in  this 
country  is  at  first  a  difficulty,  but  for  convenience' 
sake,  since  the  increase  of  foreign  trade,  the  govern- 
ment have  made  Sunday  a  dies  mm  in  all  schools, 
government  offices,  and  other  official  places.  But  the 
people  generally  have  hardly  got  familiarised  with 
this,  and  adhere  to  their  old  division  into  ten  days, 
holding  a  night  fair  in  various  parts  of  the  town 
every  fifth  day.  Advantage  is  taken  of  these  even- 
ings for  special  preaching. 

°  What  is  called  the  Concession  is  a  district  assigned 
to  the  foreigners  in  each  treaty  port  when  the  country 
was  first  oplmed,  and  where  alone  they  are  allowed  to 
hold  land.  But  as  the  river  at  Osaka  is  much  silted 
uj),  and  is  of  no  use  for  ocean-going  vessels,  the  large 


OSAKA 


237 


shilDping  has  entiroly  deserted  it  and  dropped  down 
to  K()I)e,  twenty  miles  off,  which  is  practically  the 
seaport   of  Osaka.     The  mercliants,   with  hardly  an 
exce2)tion,  have  abandoned    the  large  and  spacious 
houses  which  they  had  built,  till  the  whole  foreio-n 
population  of  Osaka  is  limited  to  the  various  mission- 
ary bodies,  who  have  had  the  opportunity  of  securing 
•piarters  which  they  would  not  have  built  for  them- 
selves.    The  principal  English  Mission  institutions, 
besides    the    girls'    school    already    mentioned,    are 
Trinity    College,    for    the    training    of    theological 
students  ;  a  large  boys'  boarding  school,  in  a  distant 
part  of  the  city,  intended  to  provide  for  the  boys  the 
same   style    of    education    which    the    Bishop    Poole 
School  atlbrds  to  their  sisters  ;  and  the  Bible  Women's 
training  home,  a  most  important  part  of  tlie  work, 
where  not  oidy  the  women  are  trained  to  be  mission- 
aiics  to  their   sisters  throughout   the  country,   but 
during  their  training  are  useful  in  the  work  in  Osaka. 
The  boys'  high  school,  which  is  Ibur  miles  from  the 
Concession,  had  not  at  the  time  of  our  visit  been  lono- 
in  operation  ;  yet,  though  it  has  to  compete  with  the 
governn.ent  school,  it  luul  at  the  time   of  our  visit, 
besides    day    scholars,    thirty-eight  boarders,  but   is 
calculated  for  the  accommodation  of  a  hundred  and 
twenty,  and  by  special  subscriptions  raised  for  the 
purpose  admirable  apparatus  has  been  supplied,  and 
the  dining-hall,  class-rooms,  batli-rooms  and  dormi- 
tories are  all  in  keeping,  and  the  school  is  under  the 
able  direction  of  Mr.  Price,  sou  of  a  veteran  African 
missionary. 


l-( 


<"■  I 


ii;: 


238 


RAMBLES    IN   JAPAN 


But,  perhaps,  lookiiio-  to  tlio  future,  the  most  im- 
portant of  our  institutions  is  Trinity  College.     There 
are    usually    between    twenty   and    thirty    students. 
The  third  veai'  of  their  four-years'  course   is  spent 
in  practical    catechist's  work    in  the  coiinlry,  a  most 
important     ]»art    of    their    training.       It    is    a    very 
complete    Divinity  College.     Its  excellent  buildings 
leave  nothing  to  be  desired.      The  street  facade  is  of 
brick,  plain  but  handsonu^  and  on  either  side  of  the 
doorway  is  a  -lapanesc  inscri])tion  cut  in  the  stone, 
and   w^hich    may   bo  Uterally    translated.    'The    one- 
Cod-in-three    teachingdiouse.'      Within    is    a    quad- 
rangle   which    has    (|uite    an    Oxford    air,    one    side 
formed    bv    the  <-hapel,    another    by   the    princijjal's 
house,   and    the    other    two  by  tlu3   dining-hall    and 
lecture-rooms  downstairs,  the  dormitories  with  deep 
verandahs  being    upstairs.     There   are   four   lecture- 
rooms,  a  small  library  of  standard  theology,  and  the 
vice-principal's  sitting-room.     Behind  the  ((uadrangle 
are  the  bath-rooms,  kitchens  and  otHces  with  abundant 

space. 

Our  last  Sunday  in  Osaka  was  a  rcddetter  day, 
being  that  of  the  consecration  of  the  new  Church  of 
the  Saviour,  making  the  fourth  Episcopal  church, 
besides  nine  mission-rooms.  The  church  was  in  the 
place  of  an  old  and  smaller  one  destroyed  in  a 
conflagration  which  devastated  a  large  part  of  tlu; 
city.  No  less  than  fourteen  clergy,  foreign  and 
native,  mustered  for  the  occasion.  The  church  is 
lar<Te  and  handsome,  with  nave  and  aisles  with 
granite    pillars   for   the   five  arches  ou  either   side, 


OSAKA 


239 


ca  good  wide  chancel  and  west  porch.  The  native 
chnrclnvardens  and  officials  met  the  procession 
headed  hy  the  bishop  as  we  passed  from  tlie  vestry 
to  the  west  door,  and  there  read,  quite  in  English 
fashion,  the  petition  for  consecration.  Archdeacon 
Warren  preached  what  was  evidently  a  very  powerful 
sermon,  but  all  the  rest  of  the  service,  exccptin,"-  the 
bishop's  part,  was  taken  by  the  native  clei'gv.  The 
sight  was  a  very  impressive  one,  and  then  at  the 
Communion  none  but  non-Cliristians  seemed  to  leave. 
It  was  a  crammed  congregation  that  remained  to 
communicate. 

In  the  afternoon,  whilst  I  had  been  addressing 
the  students  in  the  college,  my  daughter  had  been 
occupied  in  a  very  touching  way.  A  little  girl, 
twelve  years  old,  a  very  poor  street  child  who  had 
attended  the  cottage  Sunday  school  I  have  described, 
had  been  touched  and  sought  instruction  for  baptism. 
her  father,  a  kururaa  man,  had  given  his  consent, 
iien  the  child  became  ill  and  was  sent  to  hospital. 
This  morning,  on  our  way  to  church,  we  received  a 
message  that  the  surgeon  had  to  perform  an  operation 
on  the  child  as  the  only  chance  of  saving  life,  but  she 
would  most  probably  sink  under  it  This  beino-  told 
to  the  girl,  she  sent  at  once  to  say  that  she  must  first 
be  baptized.  My  daughter  arranged  with  Mr. 
Terasawa  to  baptize  the  little  convert  after  the  con- 
secration, which  he  did.  In  the  evening  we  met  a 
Christian  man  coming  to  tell  us  that  the  child  had 
died,  and  the  parents  wMnted  a  Buddhist  funeral. 
This  my  daughter  could  not  agree  to,  as  the  parents 


i  r 


nil. 


240 


RAMBLES   IN    JAPAN 


Iv! 


s 


m 


had  given  their  full  consent  to  the  child's  baptism, 
and  slic  claimed  her  as  a  Christian.  We  attended  the 
burial  the  next  Liy,  one  of  the  most  tou(;hing  funerals 
in  whicli  I  ever  joined.  The  little  coftin  was  covered 
with  a  white  cloth  and  a  cross  of  white  azaleas  upon 
it,  followed  by  a  few  Christian  women  and  the  heathen 
parents,  whilst  a  number  of  kurunui  men  (her  father's 
comrades)  stood  crowding  round  the  door,  marvelling 
in  the.  interest  that  foreigners  could  take  in  a  poor 
coolie's  child. 

Shortly  before  my  departure  I  had  a  thoroughly 
Japanese  compliment  in  a  shimbokkwai,  the  native 
equivalent  of  a  farewell  dinner.     Every  member  of 
the  three  Church   Missionary   Society  congregations 
in   Osaka   had  l)een   invited.     The  large  hall  of  the 
school  had  been  cleared  and  decorated.     Singing  by 
the  children,  speeches — of  the  purport  of  which  I  could 
only  guess  until  they  were  interi)reted — tea  and  cakes 
followed  each  other   in    rapid   succession.     Amongst 
the  speeches  1  had  to  nudce  one  describing  Palestine, 
and  this  was  interpreted  by  ^Tr.  Fyson,  paragraph  by 
paragraph.     Afterwards  I  had  some  mysterious  draw- 
in  <ts  sent  me  on  long  strips  of  paper,  two  of  which  I 
found  were  poems  in  my  honour  by  a  Christian  poet 
of  one  of  the  congregations. 

As  an  illustration  both  of  the  rapid  development 
of  European  arts  and  of  mission  work,  I  may  mention 
an  expedition  which  I  took  with  one  of  our  mission 
ladies,  INIiss  Cox,  to  a  very  large  match  manufactory, 
emplo}  ing  over  a  thousand  women  and  girls.  This 
factory  was  established  by  a  Japanese  gentleman  who 


OSAKA 


241 


h;ul  spent  three  yt'ar.s  in  r.diidon  studying  the  process 
as  carried  on  there.     'I^hese  women,  who  arc  looked 
upon  as  an  inferior  easte,  not  only  hy  the  makers  of 
artificial  flowers,   but  also  l)y  the  still   lower  eotton 
factory  girls,  have  no  instruetioii  wliatever ;  and  tlie 
proprietor,    himself  a    Buddhist,   asked    a    Ihiddliist 
priest  to  do  S(miething  for   them.     He  declined,  on 
the  ground  that  the  peojjle  were  too  poor  to  2)ay  for. 
anything.     Our   missionaries,    liearing   this,    otl'ered 
their  services,   which  were  accepted    by  the  owner, 
who  thought  any  instructicHi  would  be  good  for  them. 
We  had  a  kuruma  ride  of  some  miles  to  the  factorv 
where    we    were    very  courteously   recei\'ed    b}-    the 
owner,  who  showed  us  over  the  works,  where  everv- 
thing  is  done,  to  the  packing  in  huge  cases  for  trans- 
port to   India    and    China,  except    the  cutting   and 
splitting  of  the  wood  into  the  proper  size,  this  being 
done  at  another  factory.     The  boxes  are  made  at  the 
people's  homes,  and  is  the  worst  ])aid  occupation  in 
Osaka,   but    the    labels  are    put  on  at   the    factorv. 
Each  match  passes  through  fourteen  hands,  and  each 
(»peration  is  carried  on  in  a  separate  shed.      It  was 
a  curious  sight  to  see  the  long  rows  of  wc^mcn,  all 
nude  to  the  waist,  sitting  at  their  work. 

A  warehouse  was  placed  at  Miss  Cox's  disposal,  and 
at  dinner  time  an  announcement  made  that  the  foreion 
lady  ^vould  like  to  tell  any  who  were  not  at  work 
about  Christianity.  In  a  minute  there  was  a  general 
rush,  the  women  hastily  drawing  up  their  dress  over 
their  shoulders,  and  shouting  wildlv.  We  n-ot  them 
to  sit  down  in    a  semicircle  ;    when  Miss  Cox,  who 

R 


i 


242 


RAMBLES   IN   JAPAN 


I  II  111 


il 


(p  11 


inil 


Hn\ 


had  hung  up  a  large  iiiid  l.riglitly  coloured  picture 
of  the  Prodigal  Son,  began  in  a  riugiiig  voice,  and  at 
once  there  was  dead  silence  and  all  attention.  I 
counted  up  to  three  hundred,  when  I  abandoned  the 
attempt.  Of  course,  I  understood  not  a  word  that 
was  said  ;  but  the  proprietor,  standing  throughout, 
was  evidently  pleased  and  interested,  and  for  three- 
(piarters  of  an  hour  the  audience  remained.  The 
wages  of  these  people  range  only  from  threepence  to 
sixpence  a  thiy. 

AVhilst  in  Osaka  I  had  an  opportunity  of  getting 
an  insight  into  the  necessary  accomplishments  of  a 
well-bred  young  lady.     First  and  foremost  of  these 
is  the  art  of  flower  arranging,  lessons  in  which  are 
oiven  in   the   P)ishop  Poole  Girls'  School  by  a  lady, 
at  whose  lesson  I  was  once  permitted  to  be  [)reseut. 
The   same   lady  also   gives  lessons  there   on  a  very 
important  subject,  the  mysteJ.es  of  which  I  do  not 
pretend  to  have  fathomed.  I.e.,  the  proper  mode  of 
making  and  partaking  of  ceremonial  tea.     In  one  of 
her  lectures  I  was  the  unfortunate  victim  operated 
upon,  i.e.,  I  had  to  act  the  passivi'  [nwi  of  the  visitor, 
nis  dntv  ])eing  to  remain  sitting  in  a  posture  which 
to  me  was  by  no  mc^M^  restful,  and  silent  for  three- 
(piarters  of  an   hour     whilst  the  hostess,  with  great 
dignity,   grace    and    solemnity,    brings   forward   one 
part  of  the  apparatus  after  another.     With  intense 
exactitude    she   places   each    in   its  appointed   spot, 
passes  a  carefully  folded  silk  duster  over  each,  and 
iinally   ladles  hot   water    on    to    the    tea-powder  in 
(he  bowl,  and  this,  after    being  whisked    up    till  it 


m 


r    ( 


:>^^J<wifeiB^Mk 


I 


iii 


A 


lit'   . 

I.',     i      H 


i 


mi  \ 

H 

I        is 


HI     '  M  I        [S 


OSAKA 


245 


froths,  is  handed  to  tlio  visitor,  wlio  has  to  consume 
it   in    a    .sjieciHcd   nunibci'    of    giil[)s   and    make   no 


u,Tiniaccs. 


The  story  of  the  oiiiiin  of  this  strange  yet  typiial 
ecremony,  performe<l  hy  the  daughter  at  home  when 
it  is  desired  to  do  special  honour  to  a  guest,  is  as 
follows  :  —Some  (;cnturies  ago,  when  the  country  was 
in  a  dist'irl)ed  state,  a  great  statesman,  jeaiing  civil 
war,  invented  tlic  intricate  details  of  this  art  of  tea- 
mah'ing  to  compose  and  calm  the  minds  of  the  people. 
So  completely  did  he  succeed  that  all  thf)Ught  of  the 
impending  war  was  soon  )d)andoncd,  and  his  fame 
has  come  down  to  posterity  as  the  professor  of  tea. 

A\  hen  speaking  of  the  lessons  in  houcjuet  arrange- 
ment I  might  have  described  one  of  the  most  charac- 
teristi(;  sights  of  Osaka,  which  I  was  fortunate  enough 
to  witness — the  annual  spring  flower  show  and  fair. 
It  was  confined  to  a  certain  part  of  the  town,  but  even 
so  for  about  a  mile  liower-pots  and  plants  of  every 
kind  seem  to  have  tak(>n  the  place  of  all  the  ordinary 
wares  in  the  shops,  whilst  the  narrowest  passage 
remained  in  the  centre  of  the  street,  lined  by  stands 
of  flower-pots  on  either  side.  There  was  every 
variety  of  horticultural  produce,  from  mcdallioned 
chrysanthemums  and  champion  peonies  to  the  humblest 
ferns  fr(mi  the  woods,  and  potsherds  containing  th(> 
root  of  some  wild  flower  beseechingly  offered  for  a 
few  rin  by  the  most  squalid  of  the  poor.  It  seemed 
to  be  the  one  opportunity  for  many  a  poor  outcast  to 
earn  an  honest  farthing.  It  was  impossible  to  resist 
the  silent  appeals,  far  more  successful  than  the  noisy 


i 


w 


240 


RAMTiLlvS    IN    .lAl'AN 


i|i! 


importunities  of  ;m  \\n\>  li;i/ii;ir.  The  [.urrliasinn; 
mania  was  iiTosistilile,  aixl  we  liiivd  one  kiirunin  aftor 
aiiothcr  to  carry  home  our  lloral  imrt-hases,  liaviu^ 
invested  in  a  whole  forest  of  dwarfed  pines,  mai>los, 
and  oran,<,'es,  the  hirirost  of  which  eoidd  ho  covered  by 
a  hat.  Tiie  most  curious  thiui;'  ot  all  was  a  Large 
slialh)W  Hower-pot  coutaiuiiiLi  what  uiiiiht  l>e  called  a 
(h)ll-house  garden,  hut  all  of  actually  livin,i,^  plants, 
with  little  walks,  and  microscopic  mountains  and 
lakes,  the  latter  spanned  1>\  hridgcs,  and  the  former 
with  houses  perched  about  them. 


247 


CIIAITKR  VIII 

SiriKOKlT 

Not  tbn  l.'Jist  interesting  expedition  which  we  made 
from  Osukii  was  one  to  the  ueiglibouring  island  of 
Shikokn,  an  island  which  even  yet  is  very  rarely 
visited  by  foreigners,  excepting  thos(!  connected  with 
the  few  mission  stations.  It  is  in  area  the  fourth  of 
the  oreat  islands  which  constitute  the  empire,  and 
may  be  called  the  Wales  of  Jai)iin,  and  the  island  of 
Awaji,  an  intermediate  link  with  the  main  island, 
suo-o-ests  the  Isle  of  Man.  In  its  physical  aspect,  too, 
its  bold  mountainous  character  reminds  one  of  Wales, 
while  in  the  south  part  of  the  island  there  is  a  dense 
population,  rich  mines,  and  extensive  manufactures. 
It  is  divided  into  four  provinces,  or  as  a  Japanese 
gcoo-rapher  LdS  expressed  it,  'It  l:as  one  body  and 
four  faces,  and  each  face  has  a  name.'  Quaint 
indeed  are  these  names,  their  literal  t'-anslation  being 
'  Lovely  Princess,' '  Prince  Good-boiled-rice,'  "  Princess 
of  Great-food,'  and  '  Brave  Good-youth.'  The  people 
of  Shikoku,  and  especially  of  the  south,  have  always 
been  reputed  to  be  the  mc^st  turbulent  and  democratic, 
which  is  probflbly  explained  by  their  employments 
being  largely  mining  and  manufacturing.  In  this 
part  of  the  country  the  American  Presbyterian 
Mission  has  been  at  work  for  some  years.  The 
result  may  be  judged  of  by  the  fact  that  this  island 


H^\ 


*? 


p 


248 


UAMULKS    IN    JAPAN 


lias  ictniTifMl  scvcriil  Cliristiaiis  fo  the  Japanese 
I'ai'liainriit,  aii<l  aiiiuii^  tlicm  w.is  the  Spcakor  of  tlio 
lli'sl  House  of  ( 'i>iiiiiiiiiH. 

Our  voya-c  tVniii  <  >>aka  t<>  Tokiisliima  in  this 
island,  thoii'ili  iini  Ioiil!'.  was  cciininly  aiiiiisin,i;,  the 
accoiiniHMlatioii  ami  ai'iaiiuciiirnts  liciiiL;  purely 
JapaiH'Sf.  The  voyaue  lu-ing  in  an  almost  entirely 
lan<l-lo<'l«Ml  sea.  the  l)oat  was  eoii-trncltMl  rather  after 
tlie  Tnixh'l  of  a  river  steamer  than  of  an  oeean-,u;oin;;' 
lioat,  and,  with  tine  consideration  to  the  eeonomisin,Li; 
(if  the  ])assen,u'ers'  time,  was  niade  at  ni'j;ht.  Soon 
after  sunset,  preceded  hy  a  lioy  with  a  harmw  and 
lantern,  we  went  (hnvn  to  the  wharf,  fnan  wlneh  we 
entered  the  steamer  ilinainli  a  hole  in  liei' side,  and 
then  np  a  l.iddcr  on  to  the  de<'k.  !>ut  liie,  di-ek  was 
nnlv  a  ,^pace  >,{'  two  feel  all  round  the  slii:  the  centre 
lieino-  occniiied  liv  ilie  third-class  cabin,  which  was 
just  five  feet  hiiili.  licinu  intcndeil  for  sitting  and 
sleeping  in.  certainly  not  for  walking.  There  being 
no  berths,  '  first  come,  first  scvvccl.'  was  the  rule,  anil 
the  passengers  as  tiiev  arrive(l  prom|»ll\  secured 
(juarters  foi'  tlie  iii;.;ht  by  spreading  a  red  blanket 
and  disposing  tlieir  persons  thereupon.  Into  tin's  we 
had  to  g"  on  all-fours,  creep  across  it  while  the 
])assengers  were  King  thick,  and  get  down  another 
ladder  to  the  second-class  cabin,  which  occupied  the 
whole  width  of  the  vessel.  Taking  off  our  shoes,  we 
conld.  stoo])ing,  walk  along  it  into  tin?  first-class  cabin, 
of  the  same  width,  with  plenty  of  port-holes  open 
for  air.  and  a  fixed  bench  along  each  side.  The  fioin* 
was  carpeted  over  the  mats,  and  two  or  three  feeble 


b 


-IIIKiiKi 


lMK 


•  •il  lamps  .sus[)(Mi(1c(l  were  jii.^t  ciidnv^i  t<i  make  ilaiK' 
uvM  visihlr.  Tlif  fiiciiiiiaml'ii'iil  imcli.  whirli  I 
Iiftd  crntiicoiisls'  imMuiiinl  to  lie  hurths,  |)rii\fil  to  Lc 
only  tlu'  r('(T|)tacli'  iiitciuli'il  Im-  lifimjiaiii'.  I  Imwcnci', 
sjircadiii^'  my  riiu,  I  iiiailc  iiiy-cH'  romroiialilr  on  iIk 
Id'iicli.  willi  my  licail  dose  lo  an  open  poii  hole. 
llajtpil}'    tlieic     Were    only    luo    passenner.s    lii'.-^i'le-; 


i.MiY  siissi(i\Ai;ii  s    iKH  ■■i;. 


ourselves,  both  -lapunese  ireTitlemen.  and  we  liad 
abundant  space  in  a  ealtin  supposed  (o  a'-eonunodate 
twenty  (^r  both  sexes.  W'itli  the  full  eoin[)leineiil, 
sardines  in  a  l)o\  wduhl  lia\e  been  a  tittinu  com- 
parison. Foi'an  liour  or  two  tea  was  eoiitinnalK'  beiiiL;' 
sei'vetl,  pipes  sniokeib  and  eoinersation  w.is  cease- 
less; while  my  daughter,  mure  at-ulirrmti.-ed  ihan  my 
self,  sat  count ly  fashion  on  the  tloor  with  her  writing 


■il' 


^^•SSWi."  ."»^.- 


h;':!      -i 


;l  I 


i 


3' (ill 


250 


RAMBLES    IN   JAPAN 


board  on  her  knees.     Quaint  and  novel  as  was  my 
hedcliamber,  I  had  a  fairl\-  good  ni.uht's  rest,  tliougli 
I  could  not    but  regret  that  we  W(>re  losing  sonic  of 
the    most    cliarniing   scenery,   eipial    to   that  of   the 
Inland  Sea,  as  we  coasted  down   the  west  side  of  the 
island  of  Awaji.     At  4.30  a.m.  we  were  roused  to  go 
and  wash   in   turns  outside,  before  the  second  class  ; 
according  to  the  due   precedence   of  first-class    pas- 
sengers.     My  toilet  completed,  1  clambered  on  to  the 
top  of  the  t]iird-cla.ss  cabin,  and  had  a  lovely  view  of 
the  labyrinth  of  islets,  all  well  wooded,  through  which 
wc  were  winding.     F(n'  the  last  hour  we  steamed  up 
a  wide  sluggish  river  till  we  reached  Tokushima,  and 
before  landing  wei'c  supplied  with  a  Ja])anese  break- 
fast on   the  floor.     All   the  other  passengers,  being 
natives,  had  been  allowed  to  land  at  once,  but  we  had 
to    wait    until  the  police  functionary,  not  an    early 
riser,  couhl  condescend  to  come  on  board  and  examine 
our  passports.     This  formality  over,  we  drove  across 
the  city  to  tlie  house  of  Mr.  P>uneombe,  of  tlie  Church 
Missionary    Society,    our    kind  host.      With   61,000 
inhabitants,  it  is  the  tenth  city  in  Japan,  while  the 
island  has  iienrly  4,000,000.    The  second  city,  Kochi, 
is  rather  further  off  than  Cork  is  from  Belfast,  and 
though    less  popuh)Us  tlian  Tokushima,  is  more  im- 
portant for  its  manufactures,  and  has  a  well-manned 
American  Presbyterian  Mission. 

Mr.  ]5uncoinl)c  had  been  out  in  Japan  four  years, 
and  was  the  first  missionary  ever  stationed  here,  but 
the  church  liad  been  gradually  growing  up  for  some 
years  before  his  a; rival,  rud  had  been  visited  from 


?!■ 


( 

I' 


■i|il 


i 


ilitlil 


'it! 


ifil 


SHIKOKU 


253 


the  Osaka  ^Mission.  There  is  a  cliuich  and  native 
[)arsonngc  with  an  ordained  native  pastor,  partly 
supported  l»y  the  people,  and  two  preaching-rooms  in 
different  parts  of  (lie  ,-ity,  wliieli  I  visited,  with  two 
native  eat(>eliists  at  work,  l)esides  one  itineratino-  in 
the  snri'oiin.h'ng  vilhiges.  Two  hidy  missionaries  had 
also  recently  arrived,  and  were  settled  in  a  pretty 
little  Japanese  cottage  not  far  from  the  mission 
station. 

There  is  n(^t  much  of  striking  interest  in  Toku- 
shima,  with  its  long  straight  streets  running  in  parallel 
lines  for  a  mile  or  two.    In  the  centre  is  a  rocky  mound, 
surroimded  hy  a  moat,  and  covered  with  nolde  trees, 
now  the  Park,  formerly  the  Daimio's  Castle,  but  now 
entirely  dismantlctl.     Overhanging  the  city  is  a  pre- 
cipitous wooded  hill,  with  a  fine  Shinto  temple  on  its 
brow.     To  I  Ids  we  climbed- not  a  very  arduous  task, 
as  steps  have  been  cut  in  the  side  of  the  cliiF,  and 
were  richly  rewarded  l>y  a  superb  panorama.     The 
mingling  of  sea  and  land,  of  mountain,  forest,  and 
[)lain,  v;as  an  epitome  of  Japanese  scf     :  '.     In  front 
of  us  was  spread  out  the  city,  beyond  it  the   bay, 
covered  with  fishing-boats,  into  which  two  rivers  fiow 
from  dificrent  points  ;  one  of  them,  the  Yoshi-no-o-awa 
navigalde  for  many  miles,  while  on  both  sides  mountain 
ranges  tower  to  some  height,  clad  with  dark  pine  forest, 
and  their  sides  frequently  pierced  with  the  pale  o-reen 
patches  which  marked  the  openings  of  the  rich  culti- 
vated valleys.     To    the   right,  across   the   princi^ial 
river,    on    the   distant   plain,    a   dark    brown    patch 
c.xauuncd  under  ci   field  glass  would   reveal   a   laroc 


!■;    'ii 


o 


2o4 


RAMBLES    IN'   JAPAN 


1,:, 


|41-- 

i 

!i^!l 

i 

f  ll 

* 

Im  ' 

k^ 

MuJ 

i 

town,  in  the  centre  of  cultivated  fields,  and  boyoncl 
that  auain  a  dim  ,uvcy  line  of  mountain  lieights. 

In  the  afternoon  we  called  upon  the  nati\-e  clergy- 
man, Mr.  Terata,  and  his  wife,  wlio  sjH'ak  a  little 
English.  He  is  considered  the  most  al)h>  of  the 
native  I'lergy  and  the  most  eh)«iucnt  preaciier,  and  is 
very  ohnoximis  to  tlie  Buddhists.  IIis  life  has  often 
luH'n  threatened,  hut  he  seemed  to  he  outliving  the 
persecutions.       in    one    cliuich    or    other    there    are 


««•« 


MISSIONAUY's   110V.se   at  TOKIMIIMA. 


lectures  or  services  every  night,  conducted  by  :\lr. 
Buncombe,  :\lr.  Terata,  or  a  catechist.  In  the  largest 
mission  church  which  we  visited  was  an  outer  porch, 
with  pigcondioles  on  either  side  from  top  to  bottom, 
where  the  members  of  the  congregation  might  deposit 
their  shoes  or  sandals.  There  was  also  a  stock  of  new 
fans,  for  the  summer  was  coming  on,  and  these  are 
provided  for  the  comfort  of    the  worsliippers.     The 


SHIKOKU 


•_'.).) 


Japanese  are  ;;s  ingenious  and  enterprising  in  a<lver- 
tising  as  anv  pushing  tradesman  at  liomc.  At  a 
clnuvli  council  meeting  a  meniher  of  the  congreo-ation 
ortcred  to  present  200  fans  as  a  gift.  He  is  a  plioto- 
grapher,  and  produced  a  sampleOf  his  fans,  ])ui  one 
side  \.  as  covered  with  an  elaborate  advertisement  of  his 
esta])lishment.  Asa  contemplation  of  the  attractions 
ol'   his   studio  would   har<lly  have  conduced    to    the 


»«■>    ji 


MISSION-IiOOJI,   TOKISIIIMA. 


devotion  of  the  worshii)per8,  Mv.  Buncombe  su<n.osted 
a  more  appropriate  embellishment,  and  to  the 
credit  of  the  enterprising  advertiser  be  it  sai(],  he 
adopted  the  design  and  supplied  the  fans.  I^Iost 
appropriate  it  was  ;  on  one  side  was  a  coloured  sketch 
of  a  stormy  se;',  with  a  (hirk,  lowering  sky,  ..nd  the 
passage,  Mesus  Christ  came  into  the  world  to  save 
sinners.'  On  the  reverse  was  depicted  a  brilliant 
sunlit  sk}',  with  a  wooded  isltst  in  a  calm  sea,  and 


M'- 


! 

i 


250 


RA.Ml'.LKS    IN    JAPAN 


t/' 


■I    "I    ^ 


1     I 


storks  ii>iii.^  ovorluwl,  and  the  text,  'Cod  is  a  Spirit, 
and  thoy  that  worship  Him  must  worship  Him  in 
spirit  an<l  in  truth.' 

T'l    the   evoniii.LT,    'U-Liinninu-   at  six  o'chn-k,   there 
was  a  orand  shinil.nkkwai,  or  entertainment,  held  in 
Ihe  mission-room  out  of  compliment  to  the  visitors. 
It   was   rather   a    formidahle   alliiir,   and    as   Inli    of 
formalities  as  eeremonial  tea.     The  room  was  also- 
lutely  devoid  of  furniture,   and    the   !■  .ests  as  they 
arrived  ranged  themselves  round  the  walls,   sitting 
on    their  heels.       Between    forty    and     fifty     eame, 
all,  of  (course,  ehurch  members,  the  majority  ])eing 
men  ;  and  the  few  women  ranged  themselves  against 
the  wall  opposite  to  the  men.     I  stood  weai-  the  door, 
and  wi.'s  formally  introduced  t;o  each  visitor  separately. 
1  had  eo-;.e«[uent!y  much  practice  in  bowing  twice  to 
each  one  idJ  my  head  touched  my  knees.     The  same 
ceremonial    v  is  re|»eated  by  each  new-comer  to  the 
previous  arrivals  round  the  walls.     I  was  much  taken 
with   the    appearance   of   one  member,   a    -tout   old 
ffiitner  from  ihe  neighbourhood,  the  treasurer  of  the 
Nippon  Seidsod<wai,  or  Japan   church  of  the  district. 
He  arrived   on  horseback,  ami  his  lioi-se,  one  of  the 
few    I'callv    thoroughbreds    that    I   ever  saw    in    the 
••ountry,  was  turned  out  to  graze  hi  the  adjoining 
vard.  "  I  found  that   1   won  the  thorough  approval  of 
"my  friend    by  ap|.rc<'iating  the  points  of    his  steed. 
AVhcn    all   had   arrived,  al'tcr  a  few  minutes'  solemn 
silence,  iMr.  Terata  stood  n[)  and  made  a  short  speech, 
and   was  followed  hy  others,    of   the  purport  of  all 
which  1   knew  nothing.     Mr.   Buncombe  gave  them 


SHIKOKU 


257 


what  1  l)clicve  was  supposed  to  be  my  history,  after 
vvhicli  1  was  expected  duly  to  respond,  and  did  so  in 
English,  one  of  the  company  volunteering  to  translate 
for  me,  sentence  by  sentence.  This  over,  the  church- 
wardens brought  in  saucei-  plates  and  paper  napkins 
with  pictures  on  them  for  each  guest.  Then  tea  was 
served,  and  a  large  paper  bag  of  sweet  cakes  of  all 
colours  and  shajjcs  was  set  before  each  guest.  Each 
took  a  little  and  wrapped  up  the  remainder,  first  in 
paper  and  then  in  a  handkerchief,  to  take  away  with 
them.  It  would  have  been  a  gross  breach  of  etiquette 
if  we  had  not  done  the  same.  To  me  the  entertain- 
ment, with  the  <'onversation  going  on  in  an  undertone 
among  the  guests,  seemed  rathci-  like  a  Scotch  funeral. 
At  length,  about  nine  o'clock,  we  made  oiii-  lound  of 
bows  to  everyone,  gave  our  apologies  in  cori'c(;t  style 
for  going  first,  and  with  many  a  '  sayonara,'  or  good- 
bye, departed,  though  the  cntei'taiimient  continued 
till  near  midnight.  To  me  a  shimbokkwai  is  the 
acme  of  dulness,  but  then  it  must  be  remembered  that 
I  understood  not  a  word,  unlike  my  friends,  who  had 
a  bright  remark  for  everyone. 

One  day  was  spent  in  a  delightful  expedition 
along  the  coast  to  ]\Iu}'a,  a  large  straggling  town 
twelve  miles  off,  an  out-station  of  the  mission,  and  to 
the  celebrated  Straits  of  Naiuto.  A  party  of  six,  we 
started  each  in  a  kurunia  drawn  ))y  two  men,  pidlino- 
tandem.  It  was  a  lovely  ride.  The  road  was  level, 
on  a  narrow  ])lain,  with  a  wooded  mountain  rano'e  on 
our  left  and  the  islet-studded  sea  on  the  right.  The 
plain   itself   was   covered    chiefly   with    barley,   just 

s 


I 


M 


iij't 


m 


I     .1 


t  h 


m 


1 1 


•258 


HAMBLES    IN    JAPAN 


assumiug  its  ripening  iroldon-ci .loured  hue,  and  iniin\- 
villages  with  picturesijue  little  temples,  Shinto  and 
liuddhist,  with  avenues  of  trees  leading  up  to  them. 
May  they  soon  become  village  churehes !  We  crossed 
five  rivers,  some  of  considerahle  width,  and  aliv(! 
with  boats.  Two  of  them  were  spanned  by  pontoon 
bridges,  one  of  which  is  two-thirds  of  a  mile  long, 
and  is  washed  away  every  yeai\  in  consetjuenee  of 
which  a  toll  of  ^' ree  sen  (l^Jd.)  is  charged  to  all 
passengers.  If  kuruma-ridirig  were  not  so  solitary  it 
would  have  l)een  the  perfection  of  an  outing. 

After  halting  at  the  mission-house  and  being  intro- 
duced to  the  catechist,  who  had  been  at  college,  and 
hoped  soon  to  be  ordained,  we  went  on   to  a  native 
inn   fronting  the  sea,  in   a  lovely   cove   with  rocky 
islets  crowding  in  front,  surmounted  by  pine-trees. 
How    these    trees    can    live   and    get    nourishment 
a[)parently    on    the   top  of   a   naked   rock    I    do  not 
pretend  to  understand.     Their  roots  seem   to    bind 
the  rocks  and  penetrate  to  the  water's  edge.     After 
dining  Japanese  fashion  on  the  flooi',  we  crossed  a 
creek  in  a  boat,  when  most  of  the  party  landed  and 
had  a   three-miles  walk  to  Naruto.     As  we  walked 
along  the  strand,  strewn   with  shells,  many  of  them 
most  oorjreous  olives,  cowries,  and  cones,  I  could  have 
wished  for  a  long  day,  simply  to  explore  these  sands. 
It  was   a  lively  s<'eiic.     Every  three  hundred  yards 
lishernien  with  their  boats  were  hauling  in  their  nets, 
and  scores  of  women  and  cliildren  in  wild  excitement 
w'H'e  tuLT'dno:  at  them  and  seizing  the  .struggling  fish. 
The  line  of  nets  taken  out  by  each  boat  in  a  semicircle 


I  i 


pi 


il 


I  m 


fff'p 


.jfi 

'  il 
Ml' 


SHIKOKU 


261 


almost  touched  one  anotlior  for  miles  along  the  coast, 
and  though  l»eing  constanflv  .Iniwn  in,  very  lew  were 
ever  drawn  empty.     Thi  ihitants  of  the  sea  must 

indeed  swarm  among  thesr  islands.     Sm-  were  these; 
draw-nets  the  only  mode  of  gathering  in  the  harvest 
of  the  se.i.     :Miiny  a  small  bamboo  buoy  marked  the 
lobster-pots  or  eel-traps  to  arrest  the  unwary  among 
these  still  waters,  while  in  boats  further  out  we  could 
see  the  fishermen  hauling  in  their  small-meshed  nets 
with  great  catches  of  sardines,  and  others  patientl\ 
dropping  their  long  lines  with  bait.     No  fish  appears 
to  be  rejected  as  unclean,  for  two  or  three  species  of 
dog-fish  seem  very  common,  and  are  much  appreciated 
in  the  market.     The  favourite  fish  is  one  called  tai,  n 
species   of  scrnnius,    or   sea-perch.     So   much    is    it 
appreciated  that  the  T>roverb  has  arisen,  'Tai,  even  il 
it  is  bad,  still  it  is  tai.' 

At  the  further  end  of  this  little  bay  a  bold  wooded 
bluff  projects  into  the  sea,  to  the  summit  of  which 
was  a  well-trodden  path.  From  the  platform  at  the 
top,  disfigured  by  the  papers  of  Japanese  picni.^- 
parties,  we  had  a  lovely  view  of  the  opening  of  the 
Inland  Sea  and  its  countless  islets.  Descending  on 
the  other  side,  after  gathering  a  dozen  spc<-.ies  of 
f  ns  I  had  never  before  seen,  we  found  ourselves  at 
.Na.uto  one  of  the  lions  of  Japan.  Here  the  tide 
conung  up  the  Inland  Sea  meets  the  tide  fnmi  the 
north.  It  must  be  remembered  that  the  islan<l  of 
Awaji  lies  right  nr-ross  a  wide  bay  of  tin's  sea  from 
the  main  island  U>  the  northern  poini  of  S' '1  oku, 
leavino-  a  channel  -A  considerable  width  to  tiit  north- 


u   i 


A    W^. 


i  ■ 


•-'02 


llAMIMJvS    l.V    .(AI'AN 


li  :ifi 


iil-ii 


waid,  whidi  is  (lie  cumiiiri-cial  route  lo  Kobo  ind 
Osaka  ;  ami  uunv  than  thirty  iiiih's  Hoiitli  nf  it,  al  ihr 
other  extremity  of  Awaji,  is  the  narrow  eliannel  of 
Xarnto,  interruptod  })y  several  isN'ts.  and  therefore 
of  little  eomniereial  ini)»orlanee.  lis  nairowest  pait 
is  about  a  mlK'  anil  a  (piarter  wide,  hnl  a  roekv 
island  divides  the  straif  into  wliat  are  called  the 
(Jreator  and  Lessei'  Narnto,  the  (Ireater  Xarnto  Unwj: 
on  the  Shikokn  -ide.  W'r'  nui-t  renieinlier  that  the 
tiilal  wave,  rollmn*  from  west  to  east,  strikes  the  noith 
and  sonth  enti'aii'-es  of  the  Inland  Sea  almost  simnl- 
taneously  ;  bnt  Nai'uto  Immhu  near  the  northern 
open i  in;,  the  tidal  wave  reaches  lliis  narrow  channel 
from  the  north  lon,L;-  before  the  arri\al  of  the  southern 
wave.  The  conse(]uence  is  that  at  hi«ih  watei'  from 
the  north,  the  sea  is  twelve  feet  higher  on  the 
northern  side  of  the  channel  than  it  is  on  the  inside, 
by  a  sort  of  bore  beini;-  arrested  here,  but  at  low- 
water  the  cciiiditioiis  ar(>  reversed,  and  ihe  tidal 
wave  haviiiL;  now  come  np  from  tlu'  souili.  the  water 
north  of  the  strait  is  twehc  feet  lower  at  an 
ordinary  sprint;'  tide.  The  conseijnenee  is  that  there 
is  literally  a  waterfall  across  the  sea,  excepting- 
for  a  few  minutes  at  mid-tide,  when  it  is  level. 
\Vc  were  fortunate  enough  to  arrive  just  at  hii^h 
wa.ter.  A  small  reef  only  two  or  three  feet  above 
high  water-mark  runs  out  into  the  sea  exacth' 
in  a  line  with  the  waterfall.  We  could  easily  walk 
out  on  to  it,  and  there,  standing  on  a  Hal  rock  at  the 
extremii  ^ .  the  sea  on  our  right  hand  was  several  feet 
higher  than  on  our  left,  and  the  line  in  front  of  u« 


■I 


IJ 


1  KMII 

111.. 

■ 

side, 

■ 

low- 

'■ 

tidal 

.■ 

tauter 

■ 

<-iii 

:■ 

here 

H 

)tiii,i;' 

i  '^^^1 

evel. 

'  ^1 

hi.iili 

'1 

!)o\-o 

'  n 

ictly 

Hj 

walk 

■!■■■■ 

■  <IHH 

^  tho 

-^1 

foot 

i 

iiHI 

f  u.^ 

'  '8HIH 

ill 


SHIKOKU 


265 


\      . 


U 


was  an  even  cascade  more  than  a  mile  long,  and  as 
we  watcl.cd  it  the  waterfall  gradually  diminished  in 
heicrht.     We  went  on  shore,  and  after  spending  an 
hour  or  two  botanising  in  the  woods,  returned  to  our 
post  of  observation  to  find  the  cascade  barely  more 
than  a  foot  in  height.     Large  shipping  dare  not  risk 
this  dangerous  passage,  but  lighter  craft  can  easily 
shoot  the  falls  either  way.     We  watched  two  junks 
tryincr   it.     Thev    were    gradually  drawn  faster  and 
faster";  as  the  current  bore  them  down,  till  at  last  they 
ducked  to  it,  seemed  to  take  a  header,  and  instantly 
come  up  again,  and  were  then  swept  down  stream  at 
a  tremendous  rate.     I  have  shot  the  rapids  in  the  bt. 
Lawrence,  but  none  of  them  were  like  this.    Unfortu- 
nately time  did  not  permit  us  to  remain  to  see  the 
water  perfectly  even,  as  it  is  for  a  few  minutes  before  it 
becrins  to  rise  on  the  other  side.    As  it  was,  it  was  lar 
in'o  the  night  before  we  reached  Tokushima  again. 

I  left  the  island  of  Shikoku  with  the  conviction 
that  there  is  no  part  of  the  Japanese  empire  which 
would  so  well  repay  a  leisurely  exploration  of  a  few 
weeks    as   would    Shikoku.      Though   the   mountain 
ranges  are  far  inferior  in  ek^vation  to  those  of  the  main- 
land, yet  they  are  more  densely  and  uniformly  wooded. 
The   population    of    the    island,    although    reac^iing 
4  000  000.  is  not  so  evenly  dispersed  as  elsewhere, 
and  consequently  the  extent  of  primeval    torest   is 
much  greater.     Game,  and  especially  deer,  must  be 
verv  plentiful,  judging  by  the  abundance  of  heads  and 
horns  to  be  seen  everywhere,  though  I  only  noticed 
one  species,  Ce.rvus  mka,  or  one  closely  allied  to  it. 


m 


it 


2GG 


CHArTER    IX 

TlIK    |S1,.\M>    OF    KirSHIU 


VF.iiY  (liffVveiit   from  our  pnssn'jjc 


-l>oat  to  Tokushiiiia 


was 


the  suiu|)t>ioiis   passenger   steamer  o 


II   wliicli,   n 


few  tliivs  aft(>r  our  return 


to  pass  agani  > 


from  SI  1  i k< "lai ,  we  eml ta rked 


1i;h1   saiUMl   a    few  wee 


lown  the  lovely  Inlaiul  Sea.  up  which  I 
ks  before.     Our  object  was  to 


visit 


the  northern  an.l  central  portions  of  the  island 


ol  l\ui>lini. 
passengers 


liv  a  mo; 


^t  eonvenient  arn 


iinsement  the 


were    e\pe( 


•tod    to    he    all   on  hoard    the 


dkvo    Maru     iu     the    evening, 


so    that    we   could 


loose 


I'roni  our  nu»onngs  c 


at  davhreak,  and  lost  none 


of    the 

steame 


<ceuery.      Ill   the  most  perfect  of  weather  we 
d    dowii    the    Inland    Sea,   ami.lst    a  prospect 
ilm,   rich,   'puet   beauty.      All 
tless   islets  on  both 


xM'rU'ss    tor   e 


simply    ) 

lliat   sunlight,   a  silver   sea,  coun 

sides,  mountains  ( 

ilicir    summits,    villages    ii 


lial 


niiiiK 


liiiruM 


1   i 


II    Woot 


■lad  with  timber  from  the  shore  to 

1    I'apid    succession,   some 

Is.  others   fringing  the  shore,  in- 

ilst  which  the 


table  lishingd.oats  and  juiiks,  ami 


steamer  eareti 


illv  threads  iu-r  way 


ill  that  these  can 


'>i\('  < 


,f  l.e.'iutv  nic  here.      Not  majestic  or  gnuK 


il,  but 


doli-atelv.  uracebilly,  swe( 


■tlv  1 


eaut  I 


ful. 


v\ 


reverse 


were 


T< 


■miudiMl    that    .sometimes 


thcj 


e    IS    a 


to  tlve  medal,  when  during  the  afternoon  we 


Bo  -,'     t 


THE   ISLAND   OF    KIISFIIU 


2G7 


passed  the  Nvreok  of  a  lar-e  English  stoamor,  which 
had  goixe  ashore  on  an  islet  eight  .lays  ago,  and  was 
now  lying  on  her  side,  a  hopeless  wreck,  since  th.Tc 
was  no  available  machinery  within  reach  to  raise  her. 
Amongst  our    fellow-passengers   was   the  uhuputous 
Lloyd's  agent,    whom  we  droppc.l  in  a   gig  <.n   Ins 
mission  to  look  after  the  salvage,  an.l  many  were  the 
condolences   he    receive.l    on    his    .Icpartme   for   the 
Robinson  Crusoe's  island,  where  he  would  probably 
have  to  remain  a  fortnight  alone  amongst  the  tishev- 
men      He  was,  however,  well  furnished  with  provi- 
sions,   and   light   literature    for    solitary    hours    was 
showered  upon  him  as  he  left  the  vessel. 

The     sun     did    not    set    until    we    had    reached 
that  part  of  the   Inland  Sea  the  prospect  of  which 
I  had   enjoyed  in  daylight  on    my    former    voyage. 
We  were  due  at  the   Straits  of  Shiman..scki  m  the 
early    morning    hours,    and    here    the    steamer    was 
to  drop  anchor  until  daylight,   this  being  her  only 
point  of  call  on  her  way  to   Shangiua.     The  night 
was   too  bright  to  aUow  me  to  leave  the  deck,  wliere 
I  eouhl  mark  the  clear  dark  outline  nf  mountains  ami 
islands   over   the   phosphorescent  sea,  and  that  will. 
most  agreeable  rompanions.     The  captain,  .  mhu.v.i 
American,    who    had    kept    his   eyes    open    all    over 
the    worhl,    and    the    .•hicf   engineer,    an    observant 
Scotchman,    who    had    spent    years    in    Yc/o    as    his 
headquarters,  and  took  a  deep  interest  m   the  Amu 
aborigines,    kept    the    wat.h.      The  engineer    vvas    a 
devotM    admirer    of    Mr.     Batehelor.     the    Umrch 
Missionary  Society  missionary  to  tlie  .\inu  m  \czo, 


\i^ 


11 

!  1    ' 

\  1 

^!  1' 

1} ! 

¥ 

268 


RAMBLES    IN   JAPAN 


and  it  was  refreshing  to  hear  liis  high  opinion  of  the 
missionary  staff  and  of  their  work  in  Japan. 

About  2.30  A.M.  we  anchored  in  the  narrow  strait 
„f  Shimanoseki,  which  locks  the  south-west  entrance 
„f  the  Tnhmd  Sea.     To  the  north,  on  the  main  island, 
is  Bakan,  well  defended  by  eartliworks,  and  Moji,  our 
point   of  departure  in   Kiushiu,   on  the  other   side. 
We  remained  on  board    till   dawn,  when    we   were 
supplied  with  coti'ee  and  landed  in  the  ship's  boat  at 
Moji.     A  portion  of  the  North  Kiushiu  Railway  had 
just  been  opened,  but  the  station  was  not  yet  com- 
pleted ;    and  finding  ourselves  an   hour   before  the 
time  of  starting,  we  deposited  our  luggage  on  the 
planks  and  set  out  to  expU.re  the  village  in  search 
of  food,  not  very   successfully.     A  journey  of  three 
hours  through  a  rich  undulating  country  brought  us 
to  Hakata.     The  line  generally  skiited  the  seashore. 

We  passed  Kokura,  a  bustling   seaport  garrison 
town,  and  after  that  a  number  of  collieries,  recently 
opened,  for  this  is  the  northern  extension  of  the  great 
Kiushiu  coal-field,  which  extends  eighty  miles  south- 
ward.    A  Japanese  company  is  making  arrangements 
for  an  enormous  development  of  these  coal-mines, 
which    have   hitherto   been    chicliy  worked  only  by 
drifts.     The  upper  seam  alone  has  as  yet  been  worked 
at  all,  but  shafts  have  here  been  sunk,  and  several 
iower' seams  have  been  reached,  yielding  steam  coal 
of  the  best  quality.     The  Japanese  fully  expect  to 
monopolize  the  coal  trade  of  the  Eastern  raeific,  as 
the  seams  can  be  worked  close  to  some  of  the  best 
harbours,  whilst  the  abundance  of  labour  and  its  low 


\ii  ■' 


■m^ 


THE   ISLAND   OF   KIUSHIU 


269 


price  will  enable  tliem  to  compete  successfully,  not 
only  with    England,  but  with  Vancouver.      As  yet 
coal  hardly  can  be  considered  an  article  of  household 
consumption  in  Japan,  its  home  use  being  entirely 
confined  to  manufactures.     The  natives  as  yet  show 
no  disposition  to  apply  it  to  domestic  purposes,  and 
prefer  the  more  costly  wood  charcoal,  which  is  a  much 
less    dangerous   fuel    in    their   iutiammable   wooden 
houses,  while   their   paper    walls    and   many  chinks 
remove  all    danger  of  asphyxia.     Still,  it  is  to  be 
hoped  that  mineral  coal  will  be  adopted  for  domestic 
purposes  Ix'fore  the  forests  of  the  country,  to  which  it 
owes  so  much,  not  only  of  its  beauty,  but  its  fer- 
tility, be  too  much  depleted.     To  this  last-mentioned 
danger,  however,  the  enlightened  government  seems 
to  be  already  alive,  and  sets  an  example  which  we 
might  well  f.^llow  at  home,  by  locking  the  door  before 
the"  steed  is  stolen.     In  India  we  have  been  barely  in 
time  to  arrest  the  mischief  which  the  denudation  of 
timber  has  already  caused  in  the  desolation  of  more 
than  one  of  the  West  Indian  Islands,  and  which  there 
are  ominous  signs  may  ere  long  overtake  great  parts 
of  the  North   American   continent.      In  Japan  the 
government    is    following    the    German   method    of 
systematic  replanting. 

We  left  the  raiiwn}'  at  Ilakata,  a  large  town  sepa- 
rated IVom  Fukuoka,  our  destination,  only  by  the 
Nakagawa  or  Middle  Eiver,  spanned  by  bri.lges. 
We  rode  through  both  towns  to  the  hospitable  house 
of  our  host,  Mr.  Hind,  who,  with  Mr.  Hutchinson, 
represents  the  Church  J^lissionary  Society  in  this  great 


It?, 


)  'f 


270 


RAMBLES    IN    JAPAN 


t„wii  aiul  district.     Fukuoku  itself  lias  a  population 
of  53,000,  and  is  a  military  (•cntrc,  as  in  case  of  war, 
whether  with  China  or  Russia,  the  Straits  of  Sliima- 
noseki  would    he  a  vital   point  either  to  h..ld  or  to 
attack.     The  far-seeing  i)olicy  of  the  government  has 
massed,    in    the    ditl'erent    old  castles    and    barracks 
within  striking  distance  of  the  Straits,  a  number  of 
skeleton  corps  whh-h  can  easily  be  filled  up.    Fukuoka, 
though  not    much    talked  of,   contains  really  many 
„l,je(rts  of  interest.     Very  soon  after  our  arrival  Mi". 
Hind  to..k  us  to  the  top  of  a  hill  at  the  extremity  of 
thr  citv,  when<e  wc  ha<l  a  commanding  view  of  the 
h-AV  and  of  the  crescent-shaped  city  fringing  it  for 
four   miles.     The    sea  with    its    ImkiIs  and    shipping 
looked   almost    as    populous    as  the    land.      Though 
tlnuri.^hing    and    beautifully    clean,    the    streets    are 
,athcr  too  modern   to  be  very  attractive,  excepting 
loi-  theii'  shops,  whirli  are  well  supplied,  and  in  which 
1  was  al)le  to  pick  up  some  interesting  geimine  old 

Id'ou/cs. 

Tlu'  palace  and  grounds  of  the  old  Daimios  skirt 
the  further  side  of  the  city,  and  contain  many  objects 
of    interest.       The    public     park,    which    is    formed 
out  of  a   i)art  of   the    ancient   Daimios'    domain,   is 
studded  with  noble  pine-trees,  extending  to  the  shore. 
Adj.)ining  it  is  the  mausoleum  of  the  old  Princes  of 
Cliikus.Mr.piitc  uni(|ue  in  Japan,  and  unlike  anything 
1    Pver  saw   elsewhere.      Like  the  park,  it  is  full  of 
nuigniliccnt    ])ine-trces,  towering  above    the    maples 
an.r  other    trees,    which    they    overshadow.      Aniong 
these  forming  a  labynulh  are  droi)pcd  the  inegalithic 


THE   ISLAND   OF   KIUSHIU 


271 


monuments  of  the  family,  sometimes  plaeed  on  arti- 
ficial mounds,  sometimes  encircled  with  evergreen- 
trees,  and  sometime  s  on  the  summit  of  a  taller  mound 
reached  by  a  flight  of  steps.  The  tombs  of  the 
male  members  of  the  family  have  square  shafts  on 
circular  bases:  and  are  of  great  size  and  covered  with 
old  Chinese  cha-acters.  Those  of  the  females  have 
circular  shafts. 

This    family,    one    of     the     most    powerful    in 
former  times,  next   to   the    Shogun,    has   played   a 
conspicuous  part  in  the  history  of  Japan.     They  were 
the  leaders  of  the  Christian  faction  in  the  time  of 
Spanish  influence.     The  Daimio  Kuroda  Nagamasa, 
in  A.D.   1628,  is  frequently  mentioned  in  the  Jesuit 
chronicles.     The  inscription  on  his  tomb  is  very  long, 
and  the  tomb  itself  consists  of  three  truncated  columns 
placed  one  above  the  other,  each  on  a  circular  base. 
A  massive   pagoda    roof  shelters  it,  giving  it  very 
much  the  appearance  of  a  temple.     I  much  regretted 
I  could  not  read  the  inscription,  nor  ascertain  what 
his  Buddhist  descendants  have  said  about  his  Christ- 
ianity.    The  grounds  are  kept  strictly  private,  and 
are  in  bountiful  order.     We  were  only  admitted  by 
special  favour,  and  enjoyed  wandering  in  the  maze  of 
thickets  till  sunset.    Tlu;  family  is  one  of  the  few  who 
have  retained  cousi'>.raL)le  political  inffueiice  in  new 
Japan,  and  the  last  1)  u.nio  of  the  Kuroda  family  has 
been  created  an  here  J  ^cary  marquis.     His  eldest  son 
is  a  graduate  of  Oxford,  but,  instead  of  following  the 
traditions  of  the  family  history,  is  a  prominent  anti- 
forcio-ner  and  anti- Christian. 


\'        1 


ff 


ii  .     ! 


B 


:h 

lii 


i  t: 


ilif 


I 


'1 


072  RAMBLES    IN    JAPAN 

I  cannot  loavo  Fnku.,k.  without  a  word  on  the 

;„f.u,t  church   in  Ih.t  ,listrict,  where  we  spent  t.o 
"X.  and  on   tl>c  second  1.V.1  the  almost  un,,,ue 

'  W    C,.f  assisting  in  the  fo.n.l  consecrat.on  ot  a 
dMn-,1..  huilt  almost  ..ntirel.y  hy  the  people^ 
sospciully  stvuclcby  the  two  cateelusts  whom 

'  ,t  an.    one  of  wl.on,  has  been  since  orJainea      II... 
;,   ■   s  in.erestin,.     By  hivth  a  gentleman,  l>e  «^ 
ti  illy  a  Samurai  or  retainer  ot  the  Satsuma  elan^ 
'    r      Ue  al,oUt,„n  or  the  len.lal  system  he  recew  . 

;.  compensation  a  sum  of  al '  f.^«%  "[_;  r,^^ 

.,  schoolmaster.     Hearing  s<nnell>n,g  of  Chust.anit) 

:t 0  so  much  interestea  in  it  that    e  .^^^^^^^^^^ 

l,is  post  and  went  with  his  fam.ly  to  NagasaU,  « here 

:  ::  l,t  instmctlon  from   An.h,leac,n,    M, re 

a  wis  nlthnately  baptised.     He  then  entered  th 
■       e  eoUc^e  there,  at  his  own  eliarges,  to  be  framed 
ca     hist     He  never  said  a  word  about  h.s  n.eans, 
,,„t  lived  on  his  capital  tiU  ^^  was  exhausted  and 
was  only  when  he  was  utterly  penndess  that  the  fa,  t 
Tmo  out.     Ho  has  proved  himself  an  adm.rable  man, 
and  it  ".s  understood  that  he  was  to  be  or.lanred  as 
In  as  the  congregation  wore  able  to  guarantee  then- 

^'"a;rtht:::tchist,whow.orl<stheneighW^^^ 

.  o  l.nnk  olerk      Hav  ug  accidentally 

rxnf  ut 'it  OTIS  was  a  bank  cicii^.     j-xu,      q 

:^t::;clus,hewasledtoseel.to^^^^^^ 

tn,  and  on  his  baptism  was  disnussed  from  t^^^^ 

for    nvinc  become  a  CMiristian.     He  wa    m  absolute 

!        for  -i  time    but   refused   all    help    from 
destitution   toi    a   time, 

i-  •      1     locf  ii-  should  be  said  hu  naa  qOik. 
Christ  an  tricnds,  lest  it  snouiu 


THE   ISLAND   OF  KIUSHIU 


273 


over  for  what  he  coukl  get.  He  was  reduced  to 
support  his  family  l>y  cleaning  out  and  taking  care 
of  the  government  schools.  Mr.  Hutchinson,  however, 
soon  fmind  out  his  position,  and,  as  he  was  a  man  of 
education  and  a  gentleman,  was  able  at  once  to 
employ  him  as  a  catechist,  in  which  post  he  is  in- 
valuable. It  is  interesting  to  know  that  the  manager 
of  the  baiii-  vvhere  he  once  was  is  now  a  trustee  and 
churchwarden  of  the  native  church. 

Another  <"ise  worth   mentioning    is    that  of   Mr. 
Hutchinson's  cook.     He  was  a  strong  Buddhist,  and 
was  keeper  of  the  Sailors'  Home  at  Nagasaki.     He 
was  led  to  think  that  there  must  be  something  in 
Christianity   by  n<)ti(;ing  the   lives  of   some  of  the 
sailors  there,  whom  he  observed  to  gather  in  a  corner 
f„r  reading  and  prayer.     He  argued  there  must  be 
something  in  this  that  made  these  men  so  diifcrent 
from  the'' others,    and  therefore,  to  get  instruction, 
came  and  ollered  himself  to  Mr.  Hutchinson  as  his 
servant,  and  insisted  upon  accompanying  him  when 
he  moved  from  Nagasaki.     He  has  been  the  means 
of    bringing    all    his    kinsfolk    into    the    Christian 

fold. 

I  was  also  introduced  to  the  oldest  Christian  in  the 
congregation,  and  one  of  the  most  earnest.  He  is  a 
blind  man,  who  gets  his  living  by  hawking  halfpenny 
newspapers  in  the  street.  He  is  called  the  lather  of 
the  new  church,  because  about  two  years  ago  he  said 
at  a  prayer  meeting :  '  We  ought  not  to  be  content 
to  worship  in  a  hired  house  ;  we  ought  to  luiild  our- 
selves a  church.     I  will  undertake  to  give  $30  in  two 


it 


HI 


il  i 


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I     ) 


i:'  m 


I 


5        1 

111 


274 


RAMBLES    IN    JAPAN 


years  f>r   the   purpose.      What  will   others   give  ^ 
This  was  i.iaeoa  ail  eiioniious  sum  in  a  .ouiitry  where 
a  workin,   man   earn.   $3  a  month.      A   shopkeeper 
exclaimed:   '  If  he  can  oive  830,  1  mn.t  give  $50  ; 
uud  other,  tnlluwcd  suit.     So  $800  was  raised,  and 

the  church  was  huilt. 

We  were  at   the   last   service   held   m    u      '-Ul 
mission-room-a  hired  house  of  two  stories,  the  lower 
of  which,  open  to  the  street,  was  devoted  to  prcm  hmg 
to  the  heathen,  and  for  holding  various  inquirers, 
meetinos,  while  the  up]..-r  <.hamber  was  the  church 
hi   whiVh    Christians   met   for   worship.       It    might 
possihly  hold  a  hundred  people  seated  close  together 
:,u   the   floor.      I   found  the  crowd   and  heat  over- 
powering,  and   fear    I    did   not   set   an    exan.ple  of 
attention,   but  I  may  V)e  excused.     1   wonder  if  my 
reader  ever  tried  to  listen    t.>    an    unknown  tongue 
for  two  hours  while  sitting  on  the  floor  in  a  cramped 
posture.     If  so,  I  am  sure  I  shall  be  forgiven. 

The  following   Sunday   was  a  day  much   to  be 
rem-  -vU.red  in  the  history  of  the  infant  cauirh  of 
Kiu -'"iu     Bishop  Bickcrsteth  had  arrived  the  previous 
evenn.^^    for    the   consecration    of    the    new    church, 
which  by  working  night  and  day  was  completed-a 
feat  that  seemed  hopeless  a  few  days  bef<.re.     The 
,„attin<r  vva.  all  down,  the  seats  up  (for  they  deter- 
mined "io  have  seats  in  their  new  church,  a  foreign 
fashion  which  is  creeping  in),  the  windows  were  all 
iu   as  the  procession,  consisting  of  the  church  com- 
mittee catechists  from  town  and  country,  three  clergy 
and  the  bishop,  entered  and  walked  up  the  church. 


THE   ISLAND   OF    KIUSIIIU 


275 


There  ^\;  n  rowd,  as  th  j  would  be  elsewhere  on 
such  an  ociusion.  Many  noa-Christians  were  present, 
amon,^^  thotn  several  officials  from  the  Kenclio  (govern- 
ment offices),  and  some  leadiiii'  •''tants.  Tlie  men 
were  od  oi  -  nide,  the  women  u  .licr,  but  soon 
tl' >  men  o\  'loved  into  the  ludi<  seats.  Almost  all 
the  men  were  got  up  in  European  lashion,  frock  c<..its 
predominating;  but  I  was  glad  to  notice  that  there 
was  not  a  single  female,  whether  of  higher  or  lower 
rank,  in  Western  costume  ;  Tior  did  1  ( ' ^r  during  my 
wanderings  meet  a  wonuir.  in  any  but  the  national 
dress.  We  can  only  hope  that,  warned  by  the  mean 
appearance  of  the  other  h.  a.  unbecoming  habili- 
ments that  it  is  fashio  to  adopt,  the  ladies' 
style  will  never  change. 

The  cerenKmial  seemed  to  be  exactly  as  at  home : 
the  petition  for  consecration,  the  lawyer's  part,  and 
the  handing  and  signing  of  title  and  trust  deeds,  were 
all  duly  performed  at  the  communion  table.  After 
the  consecration  was  a  confirmation  of  eight  r.dult 
men  and  three  women  converts,  and  the  Holy  Com- 
munion, with  sixty-four  communicants  besides  the 
clero'y.  The  people  are  fond  of  sermons,  and  at  the 
evenino-  service  after  the  bishop's  address  and  con- 
firmation there  were  two  sermons  to  a  crowded 
congregation,  preached  by  catechists,  the  second  being 
of  portentous  length  from  a  young  man  gifted  with 
Hibernian  elo^^uence  and  more  than  Hibernian 
vehemence. 

While  spea'    ig  of  the  consecration,  I  forgot  to 
mention  the  ceremoni.al  eounected  with  the  building, 

T  2 


ill 

M 

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MICROCOPY    RESOLUTION    TEST    CHART 

ANSI  and  ISO  TEST  CHART  No,  2 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


iu  |||||2i 

S  m 
ir  iM 

Ir    14,0 


1.4 


II  2.5 
12.2 

2.0 
1.8 


1,6 


A     -APPLIED  IM/1GE     Ir 

^^  b'^i   East    Mam   Street 

ZT^Z  i'Ocheslet,    New    York         14609        USA 


270 


EAMBLKS   IN    JAPAN 


I*  ' 
i'  i 


i. 


^|v 
'W:'' 


which  is  exactly  the  reverse  of  the  Western  custom. 
We  lav  founclation  stones.     In  this  country,  on  the 
contra'ry.  I'uihlings  are  always  l.egun  by  setting  up 
the    roof-tree    and    then  completing  the  whole   root 
supported  ])y   a   wooden   pillar  at  each  angle,   from 
whirl!    thev    build    the    wooden    walls    downwards, 
havincr  a  shelter  un.ler  which  to  work.     As  soon  as 
the  ridcre  of  the  roof  is  fixed,  and  before  the  rafters 
have  been  attached  to  it.  in  the  centre  of  the  beam  a 
hole  is  cut,  in  which  the  bottle  of  documents  and  corns 
are    deposited  with   as  much  ceremony  as  amongst 
ourselves.     When  I  first  noticed  this  amusing  contrast 
to  our  ancient  Western  custom,  I  was  naturally  led  to 
associate  it  with  the  fact  that  no  trace  whatever  of 
Freemasonry   has   been   found  in  Japan,  where  the 
building   material   being   exclusively  wood  and  not 
stone,  there  was  no  scope  for  those  operative  masonic 
traditions  which  are  so  interwoven  with  speculative 

Freemas(nn-y. 

The    situation    of    the    church   is   certainly   the 
choicest  in  Fukuoka,  adjoining  the  large  Post  Office 
buildings,  facing  the  river,  with  the  wide   roadway 
„f  the  quay  in  front,  lined  with  barges  and  sampans, 
and  close  to  the  bridge  whi.-h  unites  the  two  towns. 
The  porch  has  granite  pillars,  and  is  at  the  south- 
w(>st  angle  of  the  building,  surmounted,  as  are  also 
the  eastlind  west  gables,  with  the  cross  in   a  circle. 
The  fine  granite  font  was  the  gift  of  two  members  of 
the  congregation. 

Early  on  the  ]\londay  morning  we  proceeded  on 
our  way  by  rail  to  the  stati<^n  for  Dazaifu,  one  of 


% 


■i:i;    ISLAND   OF    KIUSHIO 


277 


the  interesting  historical  sites  in  the  island.  II.»  , 
depcitea  onr  luggage,  wc  took  kurumas  ac^ss  ri  e 
plain  to  the  foot  of  the  hills  where  Da.a.lu  is  s.tuatcl. 
fniost  interesting  old  place,  the  seat  ol  the  goven,- 

ment  ot  Kiushiu  two  thousand  years  ago  a,id  nK  . 
The  island  used  to  be  a  dependency,  on  y  nonnnahj 
.„,,ject  to  the  Mikado,  who  appointed  the  govern™.- 
„e„eral,    ar,d  was    not  really   ineorporated   m    Uo 
,11    >o    13-W      The  temples  here  arc  tV 
cinnire  until  A.o.   i-J'>o-  ^         i   v    ^    i  i-,, 

„it  ancient  in  Japan.     One  of  them  is  dedicated  . 

Tenjin  (i.e.,  heaven  man),  the  name  under  wh.  h  . 
ZL  r,  Icr  and  scholar,  Sugawara,  has  hecn  de.i.cd. 
This  day,  000  ..a,  the  governorship  of  Knishiu  was 

looked  upon  as  a  hanishmont  and  disgrace      It 
the  post  to  which  illustrious  or  powerful  men  who 
„i,l!;   have   offended   the    Mikado    wea-e    relegate 
Teniin  is  worshipped  as  the  god  of  caligraphj.     In 
L  t  of  the  temples  dedicated  to  his  honour  is  gene,- 
placed  the  figure  of  a  recumbent  cow,  ,n  aceord- 
n  e  with  the  tradition  that,  having  ^.  horses  in  h, 
X  he  used  to  ride  about  on  a  cow.       Us  temple  at 
Daza'ifu  is  approached  by  a  long  avenue  and  a  to  u 
„•„     gateway)   of  lironze,    of  a  si.e  such  as   I  saw 
,;Lre  else      The  avenue  was  flanked  by  splendid 
:  sttues  of  dragons,  lions  and  cows,  larger  tl.m 

iifLke.  and  some  ot  the  finest  camphor-trees  I  eve, 

"^The  temple  itself  was  more  striking  from  the 
evidences  of  its  anthputy  than  its  beauty,  and  in  Uie 
courtyard  iu  front  of  it  were  again  many  bion.e 
ZZ  of  cows,  lions  and  owls.     The  priests  were 


.(    i 


278 


RAMBLES   IN   JAPAN 


I  li> 


Wi 


ill 


much  pleased  for  a  fee  to  show  us  the  relics  and 
treasures  of  this  temple,  the  swords  of  many  historical 
characters  by  ftimous  makers,  some  a  thousand  years 
old,  manuscripts  claiming  to  be  fifteen  hundred  years 
old,  the  original  holographs  of  one  of  the  greatest  poets 
of  Japan,  bronze  statuettes  of  Confucius  and  his  chief 
followers,  brought  from  China  in  630  A.D.,  and  many 
choice  specimens  of  ancient  lacquer.  In  fact,  the 
sacrarium  of  this  temple  was  simply  the  treasure- 
house  of  an  antiquarian  and  historical  museum. 

We  walked  on  a  mile  or  so  further  to  visit  a  still 
older  temple,  somewhat  dilapidated,  but  with  yet  older 
relics  than  the  other,  amongst  them  the  metal  mirror 
of  the  first  Emperor  of  Japan,   B.C.  ?,  of  unknown 
date,   and   some  ancient  lacquer  work.      It  was  an 
exercise  of  patience  to  wait  for  the  exhibition  of  the 
historic  swords,  which  had  more  wrappings  and  cases 
than  the  mummy  of  an  Egyptian  monarch.     Seating 
himself  on  the  ground  after  opening  one  coffer  and 
then   another,   the  priest  would  take  out   the   icng 
package,   enfolded  in  marvellous  wrappers  of  faded 
silk   embroidery,    tied  with  broad  ribbons  in  knots 
which  seemed  to  have  some  mystic  meaning,  and  it 
was  not  until  after  some  1.       lozen  of  these  covertures 
had  been  successively  unto.aed  that  the  sword  in  its 
elaborately  inlaid  sheath  was  revealed. 

The  temple  of  Kwannon,  the  goddess  of  mercy,  not 
far  off,  was  well  worth  a  visit,  as  it  also  possesses  a 
number  of  interesting  relics.  In  the  centre  of  the 
building  is  a  colossal  figure  of  Kwannon,  with  two 
other  smaller  yet  colossal  statues  on  either  side,  all 


and 


icnor 


THE   ISLAND   OF   KTTJSHIU 


270 


three  gilt,  or  ratlici-,  if  the  priest's  statement  be  true, 
covered  witli  thin  <5old  plates.  If  so,  they  must  be 
of  fabidous  value.  A  walk  of  two  miles  more  took 
us  to  tho  site  of  the  old  court-house  and  palace  of 
Dazaifu.  Little  now  remains  of  the  old  capital  of  the 
island  except  the  granite  bases  of  the  columns  of  the 
buildino-,  and  the  colonnade  leading  to  it,  but  its  shape 
and  ouriinc  can  be  clearly  traced.  It  remin.led  us  on 
approaching  it  of  a  Druidical  circlet. 

We   had   a   hurried  walk   down    to    the    nearest 
village,  where  we  were  able  to    hire   kurumas,    and 
caught  the  last  train  towards  Kuraamoto,  our  bourne. 
The°line  was  not  yet  opened,  and  the  train  deposited 
us  fifteen  miles  sliort  of  our  destination.     When  we 
reached  the  terminus— it  could  harcHy  be  called   a 
station— no  kuruma  man  was  willing  to  take  us  on,  as 
it  was  too  far  and  too  late.     However,  we  persuaded 
some  at  last  to  convoy  us  at  least  to  the  first  village. 
Here  we  were    set  down  in  the  road  in  front  of   a 
tea-house,    and   certainly  the  poor  fellows   who  had 
brouoht    us    <lcserved    their    fare,    and    were    quite 
incai°al.le    of  going   further,    for  when  we    engaged 
them  they  were,  so  to  speak,  return  empties,  havmg 
done  their  day's  work.     There  seemed  no  help  for  it, 
so  we  sat  down  on  a  mat  in  the  teadiouse,  resigned, 
if  necessary,  to  spend  the  night  there,  and  made  a 
meal  as  best  we  could  of  tea  and  sugared  beans.     At 
length  two  villagers,  seeing  the  chances  of  a  stiff  fare, 
presented  themselves  and  agreed  to  take  us  on. 

It  was  a  pity  to  lose  the  rich  scenery,  but  we  had 

,     e                -    f  f-  li,-lf  ^Mi-  M  vi^it  t^^  tho  fine  monu- 
tmie  before  sunset  t>>  nuit  ^oi  a  mmi-  i--.  .u 


.1 


280 


RAMBLES   IN   JAPAN 


nicnt  erected  on  a  mound  of  the  battlefield  where 
the  Satsuma  rebellion  was  finally  crushed.  This  was, 
in  fact,  the  Cullodcn  of  Japan,  the  last  struggle 
of  the  clans  and  feudal  independence  against 
centralised  government  and  the  new  rtyime.  It 
had  lasted  for  several  years,  and  was  finally  crushed 

in  1877. 

Our  friends  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Brandram,  of  the  Church 
^lissionary  Society  at  Kumamoto,  had  almost  given 
us  up  in  despair  when  at  length    our   kuruma  men 
found  their   house.     We   found,  besides  the   family 
party,  a  young  Japanese  doctor  who  .spoke  English 
perfectly.     By  a  strange  coincidence  this  gentleman, 
who    was    a    complete     stranger     passing    through 
Kumamoto  on  his  way  to  a  distant  town,  had  called 
on   Mr.    Brandram    as   a    fellow-Christian.       In    the 
course   of   conversation,  my  daughter's   name   being 
mentioned,  he  said  that  he  had  been  invited  to  my 
house   in  England   and   knew  some   of  my  friends. 
Not   a   little  astonished  was  he  when  told  that  we 
were  expected  that  very  evening,  and  he  agreed  to 
stay  to  meet  us.     Strange  that  in  this  remote  town 
in  Japan  three  of  us  should  meet  who  had  never  seen 
each    other    before,    and    yet   had    many    common 
tangents— Dr.    Saiki   Ijeing   an  Edinburgh  graduate 
>vell  known  to  my  friends,  ]\Tr.  Brandram  the  curate 
of  an  okl  curate,  and  JMrs.  Brandram  the  daughter  of 
an  old  friend. 

Kumamoto,  with  its  population  of  60,000,  is  the 
most  important  military  centre  in  Kiushiu.  This  it 
owes  chieriy  to  the  very  commanding  position  of  its 


li' 


wi 


THE  ISLAND   OF    KIUSHIU 


283 


ancient  fortress,  which  is  equally  nnportant  under  the 
eonaitions   <.f  m.Klem  warfare.      Like    the    Cast  e  of 
Nagoya,  it   has  happily  escaped   the   ravages  of  the 
iconoclastic  fever  of  twenty  years  ago,  and  next  to  it 
is  perhaps  the  finest  relic  of  the  feudal  times.     I  may 
i,est  describe  it  as  an  inland  Gibraltar,  stan<ling  on  a 
rock  precipitous  and  unassailable  on  three  sides,  an.l 
commanding  not  only  the  whole  town  beneath,  but  the 
surrounding   country.     It  is    now  to   Kiushm    what 
Osaka  is  to  the  main  island,  the  artillery  depot  of  the 
country,    and   admission   to    the   fortress    is   strictly 
forbidd-n  except  under  special  circumstan.-es.     1  was 
fortunate  enough  to  see  the  horse  artillery  practice  on 
a  field  day  ;  and  although  the  horses  did  not  seem 
comparable  in  breeding  to  our  own,  yet  I  am  quite 
sure  that  the  rapidity  with  which  tlie  evolutions  were 
crone  through,  the  promptitude  with  which  the  guns 
^ere    limbered    and    unlimbercd,    would    not    have 
discredited  the  best  European  troops. 

This   wonderful    castle    was   built   by  the  Kato, 
conqueror  of  Korea,  nearly  Tour  hundred  years  ago, 
but  is  chiefly  celebrated  now  for  the  spirited  defence 
which  its  small  garrison  made  in  1877  against  the 
Satsuma  insurgents,  led  by  their  hero  Saigo      Hewas 
the  champion  of  the  old  system,  and  though  he  had 
been  foremost  in  assisting        abolish  the  Shogunate 
and  draw  forth  the  Mikado  int  y  real  authority,  yet  he 
was  determinately  opposed  to  all  the  modern  innova- 
tions, more  perhaps  to  the  abolition  of  feudabsm  than 
to  the  recognition  of  foreigners.    He  had  rallied  about 
twenty  thousand  young  Samurai  of  the  class  to  whom 


284 


UAMHLKS    IN    JAi'AN 


II 


11 


M'^' 


1H 


Hi' 


tlie  new  institutions  mciuit  ruin,  and  so  unprepared 
were  I  lie  f-entral  authorities  then  for  resistance,  that, 
prol.al.ly,  had  lie  marched  straight  to  Tokio,  he  wouhl 
liavc  carried  all  before  him.  His  cue  an<l  fatal 
mistake  was  that,  instead  of  l)ciu-'  content  with 
masking  Kuui.imoto,  he  wasted  weeks  in  attempting 
to  reduce  it  l>y  sit^ge,  and  thus  gave  the  government 
time,  to  collect  their  forces  at  Fukuokn.  The  siege 
l.eing  raised,  the  gallant  Saigo,  after  several  struggles 
being  finally  defeated,  when  all  was  lost  at  Kagoshima, 
got  a  friend  to  decapitate  him,  and  thus  terminated 
the  last  effort  of  old  Japan. 

The  mausoleum   of    ihe    old   Daimios   is    full   of 
interest,   though   on  a  mu(;h  smaller   scale  than  the 
one  at  Fukuoka.     One  of  the  Daimios  in  a.d.   IGOO 
was  a  well-known  Christian,  but  his  descendants  have 
(riven   him   a  Ihid.lhist   epitaph  on    his   tomb.     The 
rrardeus  of  this  old  family  arc  now  the  pnl)lic  park 
of  the  place,  tpiaint   and   artificial,    with   kdces   and 
mounds,  and  the  azaleas  just  past  their  full   beauty. 
The  town  has  one  feature  not  common  in  Japan,  that 
all  the  streets  are  more  like  boulevards,  from  the  rows 
of  trees  planted  down  them.     Almost  the  whole  city 
having   been   burnt  at  the  time  of  the  siege,  oppor- 
tunity   was   taken    to    treat    the   place   as   was   old 
London  after  its  great   fire.      Kumamoto   is    an  im- 
portant educational  centre,  with  a  large  government 
college  and  very  extensive  buildings.     The  Professor 
of  English,  a  Canadian  fellow-countryman,  who  has 
since  left,  most  kindly  showed  us  over  everything, 
and  especially  the  museum,  where  I  picked  up  some 


THE   ISLAND   OF   KIUSIIIU 


285 


information,  though  I  was  sorry  to  find  thut  the 
authorities  had  not  yet  learned  the  importance  of 
noting  the  localiticB  of  their  spcciraeua. 

One  evening  dining  our  stay  we  attended  a 
shimbokkwai  given  in  the  town  hall,  and  attended  by 
nearly  three  hundred  Christians,  in  honour  of  a 
native  catechist  of  the  Church  ^lis.sionaTy  S.)ciety, 
who  was  leaving  on  account  of  health.  The  Church 
Missionary  Society  is  l.y  no  means  the  only  mission 
iu  this  great  city,  and  the  interesting  feature  about 
the  atfair  is  that  it  was  got  up  by  the  Christians  of 
other  denominations  as  a  brotherly  farewell. 


IJIUI P" 


286 


i'f 


CHAPTER  X 

ARO   SAN    AND   THK  GEYSKRS   OF   YUNOTAN 

From  Kunianioto  we  mude  an  intensely  -  teresting 
two  dajA  excui-Hion  to  Aso  San,  an  active  volcano, 
5,1)00  feet  above  the  sea,  almost  exactly  in  the 
centre  of  tlie  island.  Aso  San  is  the  second  or 
third  in  importance  of  the  fifty -one  volcanoes  which 
are  reckoned  in  the  country,  and  it  has,  moreover, 
many  satellites  in  the  form  of  sulphur  jet^,  hot 
springs,  and  magnificent  geysers.  It  is  never  at  rest, 
though  at  present  it  was  not  ejecting  anything  beyond 
sidphur  and  smoke.  The  last  eruption  of  consequence 
was  in  February,  1884,  when  there  was  no  stream  of 
lava,  but  showers  of  ashes  fell,  and  destroyed  the  crops 
within  a  radins  of  thirty  miles,  and  at  Kumamoto  the 
darkness  continued  for  three  days.  It  was  also  active, 
but  not  to  the  same  extent,  in  1889,  simultaneously 
with  the  Kumamoto  earth(piake. 

We  organised  a  party  of  six  for  the  expedition,  three 
ladies,  ]Mr.  Lang,  of  the  Church  Missionary  Society,  and 
Mr.  Brandram's  Japanese  servant,  who,  knowing  the 
district  well,  proved  himself  an  invaluable  dragoman. 
After  an  early  start  we  rode  for  five  hours  in  kuru- 
mas,  each  in  solitary  state,  choosing  for  the  sake  of 
the  scenery,  in  preference  to  the  new  and  lower  road, 
the  old  Uzu  road,  under  an  avenue  of  pine-trees  300 


W 


ASO   SAN    AND   TnK   r.KYSKRS   OF   YUNOTAN       287 

yoara  old.     Our  journey  wa«  throu^.i  a  rich  cultivated 
.•ountry,    gently    l•iHi^,i.^    tho    pine   and    cryptoniena 
avenues   -iving  gi'itoful  shade,  every  n.,w  an.l  then 
interrupted  l.v  picturesque  villages,  with  th-  women 
l.nsily  threshing  wheat  and  barley  by  the   roadside 
with  flails  on  great  mats,  the  men  toiling  in  the  paddy 
iioMs,  whence^  the  barley  had  been  cleared.     After 
this  the  earliest  harvest  of  the  year,  not  a  moment  is 
lost';  the  water  is  turned  in  by  the  little   channels 
whicli  intersect  the  ph.in  in  every  direction,  and  torm 
a    perfect    network    of    parallebgrums,    fed    by    the 
n-.ountain   rills,  and    '  d   in   this  direction  or  in  that 
with   perfect  doeility,  as  the  little  mud  walls  of  the 
channel  are  opened  or  closed.     Here  the  parties  of 
husbandmen  in  hmg  rows  were  busy  dibblmg  m  the 
young  rice  plants  in  the  black  semi-tiuid  mud.     Tn 
other^  fields  men  were  busily  pulling  up  by  the  roots 
the  long  rows  of  wheat  plants,  which  had  all  been 
drilled  hi,  for  the  Japanese  agriculturist  would  scorn 
the  slovenly  and  wasteful  method  of  sowing  broadcast, 
and  as  the  wheat  was  uprooted,  long  rows  of  indigo  or 
lentils  sown  between  the  drdls  were  briskly  shooting 
up,  now  that  they  had  space  and  light  for  growth. 
The  plain  on  either  side  stretched  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach,  dotted  ail  over  with  labourers  in  their  large 
bamboo    umbrella    hats,  a    perfect    picture    of  agri- 
cultural peace  and  prosperity. 

We  gradually  approached  what  seemed  a  might} 
convex  wall  of  mountain,  in  which  just  before  us  a 
solitary  deep  gap  was  cleft,  up  to  which  a  mighty 
causeway  led  by  a  gentle  slope  from  the  plain.     Here 


\' 


mmm^ 


288 


RAMBLES   IN   JAPAN 


h'i' 


lill 


m 


at  a  tea-house  we  dismissed  our  kururaa  men,  and 
secured  two  porters  for  our  hand  luggage.  "We  were 
gradually  entering  the  one  gap  in  the  great  circular 
crater  of  the  most  stupendous  primeval  volcano  exist- 
ing in  the  world.  The  walls  up  to  which  we  looked 
are  the  rim  of  an  irregular  circumference  of  forty 
miles,  averaging  800  feet  in  height,  and  enclosing  a 
plain  of  unsurpassed  fertility,  emhracing  over  a 
hundred  agricultural  villages.  The  present  active 
peak  is  within  the  outer  enclosing  rim,  on  the  further 
side  from  that  by  which  we  ascended.  As  we  neared 
the  opening  in  the  enclosing  ridge,  we  could  see  how, 
in  some  inconceivably  distant  geological  epoch,  the 
contents  of  that  mighty  cauldron  have  burst  through 
this  fissure,  and  spread  their  molten  torrents  over 
the  vast  plain  below,  to  form  in  after  ages  by  their 
decomposition  the  rich  black  soil  of  the  plains  of  Iligo. 
It  is  a  delicious  climb,  rough  though  it  be  under 
foot ;  every  road,  lane,  and  path  is  now  an  avenue  of 
the  lovely  wax-tree,  I^hus  succedanea,  a  beautiful, 
though  not  a  lofty,  tree,  with  wide-spreading  branches, 
and  foliage  in  form  and  hue  something  between  the 
ash  and  the  walnut,  and  in  autumn  turning  to  the 
most  exquisite  red.  From  its  berries  is  extracted 
vegetable  wax,  one  of  the  most  important  products  of 
Japan.  It  has  exactly  the  perfume  and  appearance 
of  beeswax,  and  makes  very  clean  candles.  Until 
the  introduction  of  mineral  oii«  from  America,  and 
more  recently  of  the  electric  light,  the  country  was 
entirely  dependent  on  the  illuminating  power  of  the 
produce  of  the  wax-tree. 


ASO  SAN  AND  THE  GEYSERS  OF  YUNOTAN 


289 


men,  and 
We  were 
;at  circular 
?ai)o  exist- 
\vc  looked 
e  of  forty 
inclosing  a 
g  over  a 
cnt  active 
bhe  further 
we  neared 
d  see  how, 
epoch,  the 
st  through 
rents  over 
!S  by  their 
IS  of  Iligo. 
t  be  under 
avenue  of 
beautiful, 
I  branches, 
3tween  the 
.ng  to  the 
extracted 
)roducts  of 
ippearance 
cs.  Until 
erica,  and 
)untry  was 
wer  of  the 


I  cannot  describe  the  charm  of  the  mountain  path 
as  we  api)roached  the  crest.  Waterfalls  peeping 
amongst  trees  shooting  out  of  cliffs  ;  deep  glens  below 
us  ;  festoons  of  wistaria  bloom,  painting  with  purple 
lines  the  fresh  green  foliage  of  the  maples  and  other 
nameless  trees  overhead;  a  new  outline;  anew  abyss 
revealed  at  every  turn,  till  variety  itself  became 
monotonous. 

We  climbed  to  the  top  of  a  ridge,  and  got  our 
first  view   of  the   vast   primeval   crater.     The  rim 
is   complete   except  at  this   point  where  the  Shira- 
kawa  (the  one  drainage  of  the  whole  basin)  pours 
out  over  the  bed  of  the  once  glowing  lava  streams. 
The  diameter  of  this  great  crater  varies  from  ten  to 
fourteen  miles,  and  the  hundred  villages   boast   of 
800  farms.     Within    this,  but   at   the   further  side, 
is  an  inner  -^rater  of  much  later  geologic  date,  rising 
to  an  elevaoion  of  4,150  feet,  enclosing  an  irregular 
plain,  which  is  comparatively  barren  and  waterless, 
and  then  at  the  further   side  of  this   is  the  inner- 
most,  modern,  and   living  volcano  of  Aso  San.  ^  I 
have    not    seen    the    volcanoes    of    the    Sandwich 
Islands,  which  evidently  have  points  of  resemblance 
with  this,  but  it  recalled  most  vividly  the  pheno- 
mena of  the  Island  of  Palma  in  the  Canaries,  with 
this  difference,  that   the  Caldera   of  Palma  is  only 
one-third  its  diameter,  but  five  times  its  depth,  being 
4,500  feet  from  the  Pi--  di  Muchacio  to  the  bottom 
of  the   crater,  which   is   equally  celebrated  for   its 
extraordinary    fertility,    and    has    a    gap    through 
which  the  lava   has  flowed  in   such  vast   quantities 

u 


ii 


290 


RAMBLES   IN   JAPAN 


as    to    cause   the  well-known   pear-shaped   form   of 

Palma.  ,    i    t 

From    our    ri.lge    we   rapidly    descended    by    a 
mountain  path  into  a  deep  glen,  from  the  bottom 
of  which  rises  a  column  of  sulphurous  steam.     Here 
•u-e  laro-e  puldie  hot  baths,  with  lodgings  and  tea- 
houses,°the   baths   supplied   by  bamboo  pipes  from 
the  boiling  springs  hard  by.     They  are  ingeniously 
(.mstructed  against  the  side  of  the  hill,  and  are  all 
open  to  the  path,  and  both  sexes  of  all  ages  were 
enjoying  their  public  parboiling  in  common  m  perfect 
nudity  °   Just  in  front  of  us  was  a  lovely  view. 

Another  deep  glen,  or  rather  chasm,  joined  the 
one  we  were  following,  and  the  clifls  facing  us,  several 
hundred  feet  high,  and  all  but  perpendicular,  were 
clad    with    forest    trees,    clinging,    one    hardly    can 
conceive  how,  to  the  face  of  the  cliff.     The  dashing 
torrents    were    fringed    with     all    sorts    of    ferns, 
conspicuous    among    them    the    giant    Woodimrdm 
japonkn,  dropping  its  fronds  to  the  surface  of  the 
stream.      We    were    all   encluiiited,    but    we    had    a 
walk  of  some  hours  before  us. 

After  another  hour,    arriving  at  a  wayside  tea- 
house,   the   man  with   the    horses    and  our  luggage 
declared   that   here    we    must   stop    for    the    night. 
I  should  have  said  before  that  when  we  discharged 
our  kurumas,  although  one  man   could  easily  have 
carried    all  we    had    on    his   back,   we    engaged    a 
horse,    for   which    we    were    charged    the    enormous 
sum  'of  forty   sen,   rather  less    than    twenty  pence; 
and  this  agreed   to,   he  must   needs  have  a  second 


ASO  SAN  AND  THE  GEYSERS  OF  YUNOTAN   291 


m 


of 


by  a 
fottom 
Here 
d  tca- 
i  from 
liously 
are  all 
s  were 
perfect 

led  the 
several 
r,  were 
lly  can 
dashing 
ferns, 
dward'xi 
.  of  the 
hud    a 

idc  tca- 
luggage 
e    nio;ht. 
scharged 
ily  have 
oaoed    a 
enormous 
y  pence  ; 
u  second 


horse    and    a    friend    to    accomj)any    him,    but    as 
these    were    on    a    return   journey,    they    need   not 
be  paid  for.      To  have  rested  at  this  pbu-e  wouhl 
lave  meant  to  add  another  day  to  our  journey  and 
dislocate  all  our  phms,  but  for  some  tinui  we  were 
much  afraid  the  strilce  would  have  been  successful. 
Every  argument  was  used  :  we  ought  to  have  stayed 
iit   the    hot  baths   we  had  passed  ;    everyone  would 
be  tired  ;  there  would  be  no  food  at  Tarutama,  our 
proposed  destination  ;    the  distance  yet  to  go  was, 
according  to   their  account,  greater  than   when  we 
had    started    in    the    morning  ;    and    tinally,   as    a 
clinching   argument,  there   would   be   no    policemen 
there  to  look  at  our  passports!     At  last  the  men 
were  heard  to  say,    'There    is   no    help  for  it.      If 
we  don't  go  on,  things  won't  do,'  and  on  we  went. 
Oh,  such  shrubs  1     Wistaria,  deutzia,  wiegelia,  daphne 
of  three  or  four  sorts,  wild  roses  of   three  species, 
honeysuckles  of  two,  azaleas  of  all  sorts,  a  shrub 
that  looked  like  a  white  fuchsia,  which  1  never  saw 
before    or    since,    and    many    others    quite    strange 

to  us  all. 

After  a  long  climb  we  halted  in  a  sort  of 
Devonshire  lane  for  afternoon  tea  and  a  rest,  the 
ladies  having  brought  all  paraphernalia  for  tea- 
making,  and  a  little  rill  supplying  the  water.  More 
climbing,  till  about  6  p.m.  we  were  l)rought  up  short 
by  our  narrowing  valley  becoming  a  gorge,  and 
finally  a  cul-de-sac  with  a  clilf  some  hundreds  of 
feet  hioh  in  front,  covered  with  wood,  and  a  cascade 
of  hot°water  dashing  down  it.     \yo.  h.ad  arrived  at 

u  2 


292 


RAMBLES    IN    JAi'AN 


Tarutama.     Under  the  cliff  a  long  row  of  two-storied 
sheds  crammed  with  people,  a  sort  of  square  in  front, 
two    sides    of    which   wrve    formed    by    large    open 
l>aths  under  roofs,  Imt  with  no  enclosing  walls    fed 
l.y  ban.ho..  pipes,  with  the  liot  suli^hurous  water  from 
the    foot    <^f    the    cascade    providing    a    continuous 
stream  through  the  fully  tenanted  baths.     Tlie  place 
has  crreat  renown,  especially  for  rheumatism.     There 
wrre^'onlv    two    imndrcd    people    here   now,  but  as 
summer   npproached    they  expected   the   number  to 
vise   to  ei'.ht  hun.hc<l.      All   the  baths   are  free  as 
well  as  public,  and  a  great   boon  to  the  poor  they 
must  be.      A   vevy   clean    native   hotel   has    lately 
been  put   up  at  the  entrance  to  the  place,  and  we 
soon   ar.an-cd    for    supper,    bed    and    breakfast   at 
thirty  sen.^ibout  a  shilling  a-piece.     Mr.  Lang  and 
I  had  a  hu-e  room  downstairs,  and  the  ladies  two 
rooms  upstairs,  reached  by  a  ladder  from  the  kitchen. 
We  should  have  liked  a  hot  bath,  but  it  was  hopeless. 
Our  landlord  comforted  us  by  telling  us  that  there 
would  not  be  many  bathers  in  the  early  hours  after 
midni<dit.     Foreigners  were   evidently  rare   visitors 
here,  iind  we  were  watched  and  followed  by  crowds 
in    our    every    movement.      As    our    room    had   no 
walls,  privacy  was  impossible,  but  all  was  exquisitely 
clean',  and  the  supper    of   rice   and   mushroom  soup 

very  good. 

Next  morning  T  woke  at  four,  a  still,  starlit  night, 
•md  pushing  the  paper  frame  aside,  went  across  to 
the  nearest  bath.  There  was  only  one  occupant  when 
L  arrived,  the  water  was  as  hot  as  I  could  bear  it,  but 


. 


ASO    SAN    AND   THE   GEYSERS    OF    YUNOTAN       293 

I  soon  got  acclimatized,  and  enjoyed  my  swim  ex- 
ceedinji,ly.  On  my  return,  I  roused  Mr.  Lang,  who 
followed  my  example,  l)Ut  had  hali-a-do/en  cum- 
punioDs.  After  a  sliort  cl^zc  under  my  futon  again, 
the  room  was  cleared  for  breakfast.  The  ladies  had 
succeeded  in  having  an  apology  for  a  tub  upstairs,  a 


A-4-H- 


COUNTRY   PEOPLE   CAltltVlMl    FlItKWOuD. 


great  concession  to  foreign  prejudices.  Tlie  baggage 
was  all  sent  down  with  a  man  and  horse  to  Tochi- 
no-ki,  on  the  other  route,  where  we  had  arranged 
before  leaving  Kumamoto  that  kurumas  were  to  meet 
us,  and  with  a  guide  carrying  a  lunch  l)asket  we 
started  for  another  steep  walk  to  the  sunnuit  of  Aso 
San. 


294 


RAMBLKS   IN    JAPAN 


II 

|l: 

1 

1 

i 

n 

i 

\ 

Our  night's  lialt  liad  been  on  the  outside  of  the 
rim  of  the"  inid.llc  crater,  whi(;h  is  about  live  nnles 
across.     AVc  now  soon   lost  the  trees,  and  were  on 
bare  grassy  hills  until  we  reached  the  crest.     Then 
a    magnificent   panorama   of  mountain   ranges,    one 
cncircUng  the  other,  was  spread  l)efore  us.     No  agri- 
culture only  cattle  and  many  horses  and  foals,  and  the 
cuckoo's  note  resounding  all  day.     Two  hours  off  on 
our  left  the  rising  column  of  smoke  marked  Aso  San. 
The  path  was  easy,  not  steep,  and  the  turf  pleasant 
walking.     After  four  hours  we  were  at  the  end  of 
vegetaUon,  the  last  flower  being  a  lovely,  pale-blue 
gentian  in  great  abundance,  and  we  were  it  the  foot 
of  the  cone.^  Here  was  a  little  village  with  tea-houses. 
Depositing  the  luncheon  basket,  we  set  out  for  a  half- 
hour's  scramble  over  bare  scoria  and  tufa  to  the  edge 
of  the  living  crater.     It  has  a  double  rim  ;  a  slight 
descent  from  the  outer  one  leads  to  the  very  edge  of 
the  gulf,  on  which  is  perched  a  tiny  shrine  of  Buddha. 
It  was  blowing  a  gale  of  wind-fortunately  at  our 
backs,  otherwise   we    could   not   have    ascended.     I 
never  saw  a  more  wonderful  sight  than  when  I  looked 
down  that  abyss.     It  is  about  950  feet   deep,  and 
two-thirds  of  a  mile  in  circumference.     The  roar  was 
deafening,   and  the  steam  and   smoke  rose  in  thick 
clouds.   ^Fortunately,  being  to  windward,  we  could 
see  the  bottom,  and    the  glowing  red-hot  tufa  and 
sulphur,  as  fire  and  steam  seemed  to  pour  forth  from 
the  whole  surface.     Vesuvius  and  Etna,  as  I  have 
seen  them,  are  nothing  in  comparison  with  the  weird 
Aso  San.     It  is  a  scene  for  Dore  to  have  panited. 


II 


a 


ASO   SAN  AND   THE   GEYSERS   OF   YUNOTAN       295 

There  is  one  corner  whore  men  can  get  down  to 
gather  the  sulpliur,  and  one  to  whom  we  spoke  had 
i,cen  down  the  day  we  were  there.  Every  year  some 
k)se  their  lives  in  doing  so,  both  by  suft'ocation  from 
the  fumes,  and  from  their  sinking  through  the 
treacherous  crust  into  the  molten  metal.  We  di*! 
not  respond  to  the  invitation  to  go  down,  which  had 
to  be  made  by  signs,  for  the  roar  was  too  deafcnin,' 
for  a  word  to  be  heard. 

We  returned  to  the  tea-house  at  the  base  of  the 
cone  for  luncheon.    Our  guide  utilized  the  opportunity 
for  setting  forth  Christianity  to  a  score  of  attentive 
listeners.     One  opponent  vehemently  urged   as   an 
objection  that  each  nation  ought  to  be  indepcn.lont, 
and  that  Japan  as  a  great  nation  should  have  a  god  to 
herself,  and  not  go  to  foreign  gods.     One  of  the  ladies 
had  brought  a  tin  of  preserved  pea.'hes  and  begged 
the  landlord's   acceptance  ')f   a  plate  of  them.     He 
lifted  the  plate  to  his  head  in  token  of  acceptance, 
and  then  with  chopsticks  cleverly  cut  the  peaches  mto 
small  morsels,  and  going  romid  the  crowd,  with  tlu 
chopsticks  put  a  bit  into  the  mouth  of  each  bystander. 
^ye  took  an  entirely  different  r  Jute  on  our  return, 
in   order  to  visit   the   geysers   of  Yunotan.     After 
crossing  the  rim  of  the  middle  ciater  over  grassy 
downs,°and   then   descending   into  a  lovely  valley, 
wooded  in  many  places,  a  two  hours'  walk  brought 
us  to  a  deep  gorge,  irom  which  arose  clouds  of  smoke, 
or  rather  steam.     Here  was  another  village  of  baths, 
tea-houses,  and    lodging-sheds.     The   hot,    steammg 
baths,  into  which   streams  were  poured  by  bamboo 


B>'  ^;:M  :^  i  .^^ 


296 


RAMBLES    IN   JAPAN 


il 


tubes  from  the  geysers,  were  as  public  and  as  fre- 
quented as  those  we  hud  seen  before.     Two  or  three 
hundred  yards  above  a  cluster  of  geysers  poured  fortli 
their  jets  with  a  deafening  roar.     The  largest  sent  up 
pillar  of  boiling  water   and   mud    to  a  height  of 
twenty  feet.     Every  few  seconds  the  column  seemed 
to  drop  two  or  three  feet,  and  then  immediately  to 
rise  again.     A  number  of  stones  of  various  sizes  were 
shot  up  with  the  mud,  and  oftnn,  but  not  always, 
dropped  outside.     Three  or  four  other  geysers  a  little 
higher  up  the  valley  shot  up  columns  (piite  as  large 
in  volume,  but  only  to  about  half  the  height.     The 
place  seems  very  little  known,  and  is  quite  retired 
from  any  ordinary  thoroughfare,  but  is  very  popular 
as  a  health  resort  for  the  poor.     At  these  baths,  as 
at  those  we  visited  on  the  previous  day,  the  sheds, 
for  they  are  really  nothing  better,  where  the  visitors 
are   sheltered  at  night  are  maintained  by   the  local 
authorities,  and  the  lodging  as  well  as  the  baths  are 
free.     They  are  indeed  a  great  boon  to  the  poor,  for 
rheumatism  in  all  its  forms  is  exceptionally  prevalent 
in  Japan,   and    no  wonder,   when  we   see   the  poor 
labourers  of  both  sexes  working  all  day  knee  deep 
in  the  mud   and   water   of  the   paddy    fields.     We 
were  assured  that  they  rarely  fail  of  etlccting  a  cure, 
and  in  the  very  worst  cases  give  considerable  relief. 
Some  patients  would  sit  in  the  water  at  a  tempera- 
ture of  100*^  F.  for  six  hours  at  a  time.     The  water 
must  be  very  strongly  impregnated  with  sulphur,  as 
it  fm-ms  a  deep  incrustation  all  round  the  geysers. 
Thence  we  had  a  wij  long  trudge  through  a  lovely 


ASO   SAN   AND   THE   OEYSERS   OF   YUNOTAN      297 


wooded  valley  to  Tocliinoki,  where    the   roud    coni- 
mences,   and  we    were    to    iiiid    our    kurumas.     The 
warm  s])riiig  weather  had   evoked   ahuudant  insect 
life,   ami    I  added,  in   these  two  days,  many  choice 
specimens  of  hnttertiies  to  my  collection.     We  were 
atniin   in   the  hreach  throuu;h  which  the  lava  in  old 
(Tcoloo'io  time  had  broken  through  the  crater,  a  little 
to  the  north  of  the  path  by  which  we  had  entered, 
and  we  looked  thron<ih  it  on  to  the  vast  plain  stretch- 
in<i'  down  to  the  sea,  with  Kumamoto  at  its  further 
end.     The  sun  had  set,  and  "b  was  near  eight  P.M. 
when,  refreshed  by  tea,  we  started  for  our  seventeen 
miles'  ride  to  the  city.     Bravely  did  the  touuh  little 
kuruma  men  trot  along,  and  with  only  one  halt  to 
allow   them  to  eat  their  rice  and   rest  a  little,  we 
reached    our    hospitable    friends'    house   at   twenty 
minutes  before  midnight. 

The  next  day  we  turned  our  faces  north  again, 
having  each  a  kuruma  with  two  men,  for  we  had 
sixteen  miles,  nearly  all  uphill,  before  we  should 
reach  the  railway  terminus  to  catch  the  train.  When 
some  five  miles  from  our  destination  the  tyre  came 
off  one  of  my  wheels.  The  mishap  could  not  be 
repaired  on  the  spot,  and  we  could  only  push  on  on 
foot  as  quickly  as  possible  to  the  next  village,  our 
bao-n-iin-e  beino;  on  the  remaining  kuruma.  Happily 
there  is  no  difhculty  in  finding  vehicles  e\-cn  in  the 
most  out-of-the-way  places,  and  we  reached  the 
terminus  in  time. 

We  left  the  train  again   at  Kurume,  our  object 
being   to  visit   the   interesting  Christian    village  of 


i-m<*'% 


Mil: 


298 


RAMULIiS    IN    JAPAN 


Oyammla.  Kurumc,  thou-li  a  town  of  35,000 
inhabitants,  seems  to  consist  of  one  en.lless  street, 
running  up  towards  the  hills  ;  but  at  Uist,  like  Harley 
Street,"it  came  to  an  cn.l.  an.l  at  a  tea-liousc  on  the 
edcre  of  the  country  wo  enjoyed  a  delicious  native 
.linner  of  shrimps,  a  kind  of  whitebait,  mushroom 
soup,  eg-s,  and  rice.  I  felt  quite  satislied  with  my 
managenu-nt  d  chopsticks,  when  the  crowd  of  boys 
who   were    watching   us   did    not    see   anything   to 

laugh  at. 

Whence  we  ran  along  the  banks  of  a  river,  fringe.l 
with  ferns  and  shaded  by  wax-trees,  till  we  reached 
an  avenue  at  Korasan,  where  is  a  fine  Shinto  temple 
(,„   the  wooded  hill,  with  a   grand  view.     We  had 
sent  our  wheels  round  to  meet  us  at  the  base  of  the 
nill  on  the  other  side.     At  a  teadiouse  in  the  temple 
orounds  we  saw  the  whole  process  of  preparing  green 
tea  for  home  consumption.     The  leaves,  brought  m 
ill  lar<ve   baskets,  are  steamed  in  a  perforated   pan 
over   a   boiler   on  a  charcoal   fire.     They  are   then 
spread  out  on  bamboo  mats  in  the  sun  to  dry,  but 
l)efore  they  become  crisp  are  roughly  rolled  in  the 
palms  of  the  hand  by  women.     Then  tlie  drying  is 
completed,  and  the  leaves  are  ready  for  use.     We 
were  told  that  to  make  black  tea  for  foreign  use  they 
bake  the  leaves  after  steaming.      We   drank    some 
delicious  fresh  tea  made  from  leaves  which  were  on 
the  bushes  only  a  few  days  ago. 

Here  our  friend  iMr.  Hutchinson,  from  Fukuoka, 
met  us,  and  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  we  took 
ourselves  to  our  kurumas,  and  were  oti'  for  Oyamada. 


i 


ASO   SAN   AND   THK  GEYSERS   OF   YUNOTAN      'JDl* 

Wo  had  a  long  two  hours'  ri.le,  Hlmde.l  by  wiix-trecH 
us  we  skirted  tho,  range,  wlicn,  in  a  village  cmhusomcd 
ill  trees,  we  suddenly  turned  up  a  steep  hill  in  the 
narrowest  of  lanes,  under  deep  shade.    At  an  opcnin- 
anioncr  the  treei  we  got  out,  and  in  front  of  us  was  a 
pretty  wooden  church,  with  its  soli.l  roof  and  neat 
porch,  in  an  enclosure  ornamented  after  the   lashion 
of  the   country  with   large  bouldtu-s,    brought    and 
„,rancr,.d  with  no   slight  labour:  and  by  its  side  a 
picturesque  little  parsonage  of  two  stories,  standing 
in    its    garden,    very    like    a    Swiss    .-hrdet.      rhe 
c.hurch,  which  will  hold  three  hundred,  is  tastefully 
furnished,  and,  like  the  parsonage,  was  built  by  the 
people   themselves.     The  catechist,   whose   wife  had 
been    for    ten    years   a    pupil   of    Mrs.    (Joodall.   a 
benevolent    missionary     at    Nagasaki,    and     speaks 
En<^lish   well,   entertained   us   with    tea   and   ('akes^ 
We'  then   climbed  by  a  narrow  path  to  the  house  ot 
the  chief  man  of  the  village  and  the  first  Christian. 
Near  his  house  was  a  natural  platform,  a  little  grasy 
knoll  projecting  from  the  hill-side,  where  the  people 
often  assemble  to  sing  hymns.     From  this  spot  we 
had  a  striking  view  of  the  slopes  and  the  village 
l,elow      Every  house  is  isolated,  and  the  brown  rools 
peer  here  and  there  amongst  a  dense  mass  of  foliage, 
the  flat  tops  of  the  wax-trees.,  ^ 

The  story  of  this  village  is  very  hitercsting.  J^  our 
years  before  my  visit  there  was  not  a  Christian  in  the 
place  ;  we  were  here  in  the  centre  of  Xavier  s  labours. 
It  is  marvellous  how,  in  spite  of  persecution  ann 
isolation,  a  tradition  of  Christianity  had  remained. 


noo 


RAMULES    IN    JAPAN 


111  some  of  the  villa<,a's  the  people  Imd  preserved  a 
fpw  loaves  of  old  missals,  some  crosses  and  other 
(  I  m  relics.  These  were  kept  buried  in  boxes 
imder  the  ^i>"v  in  the  centre  room  of  a  house,  and 
once  a  year  ;it  dnid  of  night,  after  the  house  had  been 
'•arefuUy  shut  up,  ih<'  relics  were  opened  and  shown, 
the  si^ni  of  the  cross  made,  and  tlic  children  told  it 
was  tlie  pv  '-ribed  religion  of  their  ancestors.  But 
they  knew  nothing  more.  When  the  country  was 
opened,  an<l  religion  proclaimed  free,  some  of  these 
villaoes  declared  themselves  Christian,  and  at  once 
received  the  iloman  missionaries. 

The  people  of  Oyamada  noticed  that  the  conduct 
and  life  of  the  inhabitants  of  one  of  the.se  N^iiluges 
was  far  superior  to  that  of  the  liuddhists,  and  came 
to   the   conclusion  that  it  must  be  a  good   religicm 
which  produced  such  fruits.     Some  of  them  went  to 
the    government    oiKce   at   the    neighbouring    town 
of    Kurume,    and    talked    to   the   officials   there   of 
their  intention  of  inquiring  into  Christianity.     They 
replied  to   them :    *  If  you   want   to   be   Christians, 
do   not  go  to  the  old  Chdstians,  for  they  brorght 
all    the    trouble     to    Japan     many    years    ago     by 
meddling  in  politics;  go  to  the  new  Christians,  for 
they  never  interfere  with  Japanese  matters  of  state.' 
They  were  also  told  that  if  they  went  to  Nagasaki, 
they  would  hear  all  about  Christianity ;  so  a  depu- 
tation set  out  along  with  the  head  of  the  village  on 
what  was  to  them  a  very  seriou,^  journey.     Arrived 
at  Nagasaki,  they  went  tri   an  mn,  but  the   people 
there  knew   nothing  about  any  Christians,  when  a 


['ivcci 


ASO   SAN   AND   THE  QEYSERS   OF   YUNUiAN      301 

bystandor  said :  *  I  know  nil  thn  foroi«rncr.s,  and  will 
take  you  to  thorn.     But  you  don't  know  their  way-s ; 
you  can  (1  >  nothing  with  the;;-  -.inles.s  you  give  thorn 
a  dinnoi  I     \.     Give  mo  $n(v,  ^ud  I  will  provide  tlu- 
dinner,  ai  1    make  all  right.'      But    tUoy  cautiously 
replied  t!wit  they  would  wait  and  .see  the  foreigners 
first.     Tl    man  took  thorn  to  the  ("hurcli  iMis.'U<.nary 
Society  bookshop,  and  it  turned  out  that  all  he  knew 
of  the  matter  was  the  oxi.«,tenen  of  this  shop.     Tho 
colporteur  sent  thorn  to  Mr.  TTutoliinsou,  and  th.-y 
began  by  producing,  in  true  .lupauosr  fasliiou  from 
handkerchiefs,  two  large  tin.s  of  mutton,  which  tho\- 
had  brought  as  an  introductory  present.     INlr.  llutth- 
inson  heard  their  story,  felt  satisfied  of  their  sincerity, 
and  told  them  he  would  send  them  two  teachers  t. 
instruct  them  in  the  religion  of  Je.«u8,  but  they  nuisi 
expect  no  money  nor  any  worldly  a.lvantage.    He  smi 
Mr.  Naknmura,  the  present  cato<hist,  and  another. 

Some   months  afterwards  he  wus  summoned  to 
examine  their  catechumens.     Ho  bap  .;^ed  seventy  at 
the  house  of  the  head  man  whom  we  ^  ^ited,  and  soon 
after  twenty  more  whom  he  had  put  back  for  further 
instruction.      There   were   now    140   well-instructed 
Christians     there.       Bishop    Bickersteta     afterwards 
visited  them  for  confirmation ;  and  one  lum,  who  was 
not  able  to  be  present,  afterwards  walked  fifty  miles 
to  receive  the  rite   at   Fukuoka.     They   maintain  a 
Christian  school.     Formerly  near  the  sp(..    where  the 
church  has  been   built  were   two  trees    vhich  were 
considered  sacred,  and  between  them  hun^  the  sacred 
straw  ropo  connected  with  Shinto  worship.     When 


302 


RAMBLES    IN    JAPAN 


i  I 


iiii 


t\vo-tliiv(ls  of  the  villagers  had  become  Christians,  the 
sons  of  the  head  man  boldly  cut  down  the  sacred  trees 
in  the  middle  of  the  night,  and  they  have  been  used 
to  form  the  roof-tree  of  the  church,  while  a  sacred 
stone  with  an  inscription  has  been  inverted  and  made 
the  threshold  of  the  church. 

The     village     was    not     without     its     troubles. 
The  Japanese  are    extremely    fond  of  lawsuits,  and 
it    is    commonly    said   that   each    village    considers 
it  an  honourable  distinction  to  have  been  involved 
in    a    suit    with    her    neiglibours.      Oyamada    has 
been   no    exception.     There   was   a   bit  of  common 
land   claimed   both    by   it   and   by   a   neighbouring 
village.     Their  old  maps  differed  from  those  of  their 
neigrd)ours,  and  both  were  of  great  antiquity.     They 
had  had  a  lawsuit  for  some  years  about  it,  which  was 
carried  through  four  courts,  till  at  last,  in  the  High 
Court  of  Tokio,  they  lost  it.     The  bit  of  land  was 
worth  about  $1000,  and  the  costs  they  had  to  pay 
■  came  to  $8000,  so  Chancery  suits  and  law  expenses 
exist  elsewhere  than  in  England.     Reluctantly  we  bid 
good-bye  to  Oyamada,  and  went  down  the  hill  to  our 

kurumas. 

In  passing  through  Kurume  I  noticed  the  shop  ot 
a  knife-handTe  manufacturer.  He  had  an  immense 
stock  of  horns  and  skins  of  the  deer  of  the  country 
{Cervm  sika),  which  he  told  me  was  very  common,  of 
which  I  secured  specimens.  He  informed  me  that 
there  was  another  deer  to  be  found  in  Kiushiu,  much 
rarer,  but  of  which  he  had  at  present  no  specimens. 
After  an  unsuccessful  hunt  after  bronzes  and  lacquer, 


ASO   SAN   AND   THE  GEYSERS   0'/   YUNOTAN      303 


we  resumed  our  journey  by  train,  and  readied  Fukuoka 
before  midnight,  glad  of  a  few  days'  rest,  which  I 
spent  in  entomological  researches  in  the  woods,  and 
antiquarian  in  the  city. 

I    had   an  invitation    to   visit   the    collection   of 
a    Japanese   doctor,    who   had   a   reputation    as    an 
entomologist.       When     we     called,     he     had    gone 
on   a    professional    visit   into   the  country,    but   wv 
were  told  by  the  servant  that  the  lady  of  the  house 
would  be  glad  to  see  us.     She,  a  sweet  aristocratic- 
looking  Japanese  lady,  had  the  keys  of  her  husband's 
cabinets,  and  kindly  allowed  me  to  examine  everything 
at  leisure.    I  derived  much  information  from  my  visit 
on  the  marked  differences  between  the  Icpidoptera  of 
Kiushiu  and  those  of  the  main  island,  a  very  largo 
proportion  being   representative   species.     Then  the 
lady  insisted  on   showing   us   her   collection  of  old 
Satsuma  china,  which  she  evidently  held  much  more 
deserving  of  notice  than  her  husband's  insects,  and  it 
really  was  such  a   collection   as   could  not  now  be 
brouo-ht  together  unless  at  considerable  expenditure. 
I  was  afterwards  fortunate  enough  to  obtain  in 
Fukuoka,  in  a  second-hand  shop  in  tlic  lower  part  of 
the  town,  the  only  two  specimens  of  old  Satsuma 
crackled  ware  that  I  met  with  for  sale.     Here,  too,  as 
we  were  out  of  the  beat  of  ordinary  tourists,  I  secured 
several  specimens  of  antique  bronzes.     These  things, 
though  easily  obtained  at  the  first  opening  of  the 
country,  often  now  fetch  higher  prices  in  Japan  than 
in  Europe.    Whilst  ransacking  the  old  curiosity  shops 
in  company  with  my  kind  friend  and  host  Mr.  Hind, 


304 


RAMBLES   IN   JAPAN 


Irl 


lii 


as  we  left  one  shop  in  wliich  we  were  attended  to  by 
the  mistress  only,  her  husband  being  out,  Mr.  Huid 
asked  me  if  I  had  not  been  struck  by  her  appearance, 
t  said  I  noticed  that  she  had  not  only  a  handsome, 
Uit  a  remarkably  long  and  oval  face.     He  replied 
Ihat  she  had  all  tlie  marks  of  the  most  aristocratic 
Japanese  type,  and  he  was  determined  to  find  out  who 
she  was.     Upon  inquiry  it  was  ascertained  that  she 
was  the  daughter  of  a  Daimio  of  high  rank,  who  had 
Ijeen  ruined  in  the  Satsuma  rebellion. 

From  Fukuoka  my  face  was  turned  homeward,  or 
rather    further    from    home,    across    the    Pacific   to 
Vancouver.     We   retraced   our   steps   to   Moji,   and 
crossed  the  famous  Straits  of  Shimanoseki  to  Bakan, 
the  town  on  main  island  side,  where  we  rested  a  night 
waiting  for  the  steamer  ;   then  through  the  Inland 
Sea,  of  which  the  traveller  can  never  tire,  thou,i;h  the 
reader  may  ;  a  few  days  at  Osaka  ;  a  halt  at  Kioto, 
and  then  at  Toklo  for  farewell  visits  ;  and  J  am  once 
more   embarked   on    a    Canadian   Tacific   boat,    and 
reluctantly  bid  farewell  to  the  cnciianting  Land  of 
the  Eising  Sun  as  we  steer  towards  Columbia's  western 
shore. 


•^.■«i»^v->> 


INDEX 


.Aiiinn,   ^o. 

AniHHir,  5",  5'^. 

A^()  Sail,  voliaiiu  of,  291-2(15. 

Austin,  Kcv.  W.    1'..  work  nl,  _?4. 

Awaji.  I>laii(l  of.  247.  261 , 

HalliiiiK  anati<rciiuiUs,  147,  197. 
r.iicls,  ();„  64.  105,  10(1.  120.  121,  122. 
IJiwa,  Lake  of,  1S7. 
15iiclges,  84,  85,  8C>.  258. 
Hiiddha,  images  of,  105,  I41,  204. 
>acir(l  iioi^e  ot,  ()S. 

Cherry  trees,  35,  50. 

Chinese  language,  uses  of,  1 14. 

Christian  eduealors,  39,  20S,  237,  2jS. 

relics,  40. 
Chusi'uji,  Lake  of,  if)7   113 
Climate,  l>),  20 
Cloisonne  ware,  175,  177- 
Coal  mining,  22,  23,  2O.S,  209. 
Cormorant  fishing.  181. 
Cryptoinerias,  83.  icN.  Iiti. 
C/areviteh.  assault  u|ion.  iSS,  190. 

Da/aifu.  277. 
Deshima.  13,  15 
Doshislia,  208. 

Lartliijuake.  73. 

I'jnperor's  gardens.  Kiot(j,  211,  212, 

palaces,  4I,  2 1 9. 
"  I'.nglisii   as   she   is  spoke,"  136,    137. 

197.  . 

English  language,  spread  ul,  114. 

Falconry.  94,97.  98. 

Fisherie's,  21,  258,  2OI. 

Fishing-tackle,  '12, 

Flower  show  at  » )saka,  245. 

Formosa,  Island  of.  20. 

Fruit  trees,  35. 

Fuji  San.  mountain  of,  127, 

origin  of  word,  102. 


I'ukuoka.  2(1(1-270 

(ieysers  of  N'unotan,  2()5. 
Cifu,  180.  182. 
( ioteniha,  153. 

llakone,  13S,  142. 

Hawking,  94,  97,  ()8. 

Ikraldry,  40. 

llideyos'hi,  22(),  227 

Hiei/.an,  mountain  of.  214,  215. 

Ilikone,  184,  187. 

Hotels,  86.   87,   88,90,   112,  1S3,  155, 

184,    1(|2. 

Inland  sea,  24,  25,  266,  2(17.  JoS 
Insignia.  39.  40. 
lyeyasu,  9I,  92. 

teniples  and  niausoN  uni  ol,  ()•>, 
93,  (^8-101. 
Irrigation,  144,  287. 

lapanese  courtesy,  163, 

eating  customs,  15S>  's*'' 

literalne--s,  153,  154. 

love  of  the   beautiful.    14.15. 
109. 

sjionge  cake.  88. 
linrikslia>,  35,  42. 

Kaimnoii-ga-fuchi.  102. 
Karasaki,  pine  trees  near,  18  i. 
Kiushiu,  Island  of,  19,  266-285. 
Ki(.to,  195-222. 

indu'-trial  exhilution.  Jl  ; 
Kobe,  24. 
Ko/u,  128. 
Kumamolo.  27(1.  2S0.  2S3. 

I.am|)s,  bron/e  and  sione,  50. 

.Match  factory  in  ().-.aka.  241. 
Mauvileums.  100,  271.  284. 
Mav  (lav,  71. 


3"5 


,11 

\l ' 


i 


;uO 


N  1)  1-.  X 


Muura!-,  J 


(iilu.  iSj 


>at»uiu 


;\  \v;ur,   IJj. 


171). 


Sell 


VI.  ^.' 


2oS, 


;_iu,  -,i/. 


lulvUoUii,  Jt>().  272-275. 
I\iiiii.niii)!ii.  2S0. 
KmiHiu'.  .^it^  ,i"''  S^^-- 

(  )>rtk;l,  22i)-2  j4- 
Sliil<<>l^ii.  247. 
■lukio.  7.;,  74- 
■r,,ku..liiiiui,  250-250.^ 
Mi\;i-iH'  ^liiia,  jiiuiiu'v  U),  13.5,  l.H- 
MuMUins,  45,  4*'.  47- 
Nagasaki.  1,?.  I5-  '''• 
Nai^oya.  ii>5-iSo. 
Namlo,  2()i,  2i>2. 
Nc-oshiuui.  losepli.  20S,  211,  212. 
Nijo.  ca-tlf  'if,  221,  222. 
Nikko,  Si--i2;v 

ca-eadi.-,  nrar,  loO,  K",,  U'). 
i.mniey  to,  Si,  S2,  S.?,  S4. 
Nippi.n,  \-V\w\  of.  K.I. 

Oilawara,  128,  I2y. 
(  Vaka,  ,^0,  225-246. 
(  Hsii.  l.Si),  I'l". 

I'ailiaiiunl  limi-c.  41- 
ra^>]>orN.  M. 
I'aimiiii;,  177. 
I'licasaiils.  S(). 

fiallirr>  exportrd,  <><)■ 

I'oaclntif;;,  107. 

I'onekiiii,  making  ol,  I75'  ' '  "•  '"■ 
pac-kinu;  ol.  17S, 

KaiUvav  station  luiidicoiis,  K'S- 

172.  1S4,  26!S,  2fK),  27(1, 
Rollins.  U-^iii'l  I't-  "">  ^"> 

Sailniv'  hoiiir.  ^4. 


Sliiba,  57,  7"- 

Sliikoku,  l^laiul  ol.  247    -"^ 

voyage  10,  241S. 
^Iiiulo  tfiiipli'S,  47,  4^,  •"•, 
Sliodo  Shoiiiii,  lfU''i>*l"  "''  ^5'  S(). 
Siioguiis,  41.1,  <)S 

shiiiiis  ol,  50,  <)5. 
Si.  .\ii(lrc\v's  school,  70, 
St.  lliMa's  school,  77. 
Straw  briilj^cs,  1  lo. 
Naudals.  lio. 
Sulphur  bat'is.  141,  I4«,  2')2,  2y5. 

ra\i(icnnists"  shops,  *)2. 
•|'anilaiiia,  292. 
Tea  drinking,  242. 

making,  298. 
leniplfs,  47,  bb,  90-102,  1(>I.  17°,  '/•. 

172,   191,  198-208,   21S,  229,  25J, 

277,  278. 
Tides  at  Naruto,  202. 
Tokio,  35,  36. 

university  ot,  53- 
Tokushinia,  251^-257 
Trees,  (hvarllng  and  transplanting,  54 

preservation  of,  269. 
Tycoon,  meaning  of.  40. 

Uyeno,  4-,  45,  4^'. 

Volcano  of  .Aso  San,  2()i-295. 

Water    travelling,    24.    248,    249.   250, 

266,  267. 
Wax-trees,  288. 
Women,  clothing  ol.  23. 

Ne//o,  i..,laiid  of.  10. 
Yokohama,  },},. 


54- 


249,    250, 


/*aSlr«* 


■'**  -      feu;    »    ~    -ti    \  li       * 


•:%^' 


V     3.  H 


1-^^^^ 


tlPWf 


